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:::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

 
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Old 07-15-2015, 05:11 AM
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:::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Right, that’s it. I’m making a progress thread.

I’ve had the Prelude (aka Hazel) for nearly a decade now, she’s a ’94 JDM import BB1 which came with 4WS. It was my DD until a couple of years ago, now it is slowly becoming a track car since I can’t bear to let it go.

It has had its share of problems over the years, such is the burden of owning a Prelude, so much so that it was just getting impractical to keep it on as a DD. The big ticket items were the failing 4WS and the driver’s side door lock breaking (requiring the door to be cut open), so I guess I’ve been lucky in that regard that it hasn’t been more. Many of the more niggling issues were related to the failing electronics and all the little creaks and groans she was developing, but after removing so much “stuff” she really is a joy to drive again. Having just over 200,000km (125,000mi) it has fairly low mileage for its age, still on the original motor and it is still quite strong.

In her current state she will (and my driving ability) do a 1:16 flat around Symmons Plains on street tyres, not great but still plenty of room to improve. I’m already the fastest FWD out there (read: only). Most of the cars that run on the club days I’ve been to are monstrous high-HP Skyline’s, Porsche’s, Evo’s and WRX’s that are mainly in the 0:58 to 1:07 territory (a V8 supercar can do a 0:51 but they typically do 0:52’s). I’m hoping that with some semi-slicks and some practice I’ll end up around the 1:12’s, with around a 1:08 to 1:10 likely being the absolute upper limit of a FWD chassis with a controllable amount of power. It’s a fast track though with constant acceleration and braking needed, so does not favour a small nimble car. There is another track in the state down south which is much tighter so I think the advantages of the Prelude would shine better there, I’m also contemplating jumping at a little motorkhana soon too so most of my focus at the moment is on the suspension.





In her glory days (at my wedding actually)


Aaaannnnddd.... where she spends most of the time now (test fitting the Enkei's in this pic)


Engine:
Practically stock
NGK ignition leads
K&N panel filter
Custom 2” exhaust, hi-flow metal cat and sports muffler
Deleted cruise control, air conditioning and stock air intake resonator
Exedy HD clutch
Penrite 10 tenths 15W-50 racing full-synthetic engine oil

Brakes:
Bendix Ultimate front pads
DBA slotted front rotors
HEL braided brake lines
Penrite 10Tenths Racing brake fluid

Interior:
Stripped interior
Custom stickerbombed gauge cluster
Forbidden short shifter

Exterior:
Awful, just awful paint
Terrible BSA knock-offs of a TE37 cup wheels
JDM rear wiper delete and antenna delete

Suspension:
Tein SS coilovers
4WS delete
Energy Suspension full bushing kit & trailing arm kit
Hard-Race rear toe arms
Hard-Race sway bar links
Whiteline 22mm solid rear sway bar with reinforced mounts

ICE:
None, absolutely all gone.

Misc:
Autometer Ultra-lite water temp gauge

Future Mods:
Too many to list. Plan to finish restoring the 16” Enkei Racing Peak II’s sitting in the garage and mount some Dunlop 03G semi-slicks. I'm in desperate need of rebuilding the rear brakes.

Last edited by tassievteclude; 06-12-2016 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 07-15-2015, 06:27 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

FAAAAAAANTASTIC!

Glad to finally see the car!

Great story there.
Driving a Prelude through the swervies is what the folks in lab coats at Honda had in mind when these cars were designed, built and tested



Hope to see more.
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Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
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I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead

Last edited by bykfixer; 07-15-2015 at 06:30 AM.
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Old 07-15-2015, 05:33 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Thanks Byk, I'll try to do Soichiro proud.

First round of updates, I have finally collected all the parts I need.



I picked up a 2WS rear sub frame from a wrecker on the mainland and had to get it posted down. It wasn't in bad condition but the paint was flaking and scratched up pretty bad. I decided to have it powdercoated for durability and it looks SOOOOO good. Hardrace rear toe arms and front and rear sway links from Japan (took 6 weeks to get here) and a full ES kit from Summit Racing. Now for the fun part......
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Old 07-16-2015, 12:01 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Fitting way for a Honda Prelude to live out it's twighlight years.
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welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
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Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
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Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:21 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

So had an eventful day. As some of you may know I took the sunroof out a few months ago, I had a poke around some of the bubbling paint and discovered this.



Well after many weekends teaching myself to sand, bog and prime I had a sunroof panel I was truly proud of, then I applied a cheap rattle can of Milano Red I got from the local parts store and now I'm not so proud. There a) wasn't enough paint in a single can to give it enough coats, b) since the daily temperatures here haven't exceeded 13C (about 55F) since like April and c) it really is cheap dodgy paint, well the result can be seen for yourself.



I hate painting. I tried giving it a cut and polish and it didn't even out the patchiness at all, and there aren't enough coats on it for me to risk giving it a light rub down with some wet & dry. I'm not even that upset, it's on the cards for me to be replacing the whole panel with a sheet of aluminium probably this summer so this will do for a temporary fix.

Took her for a drive last night for one last time before the teardown, without a rear swaybar and with non-functioning 4WS it was a little hair raising at times. It'll all be fixed soon though. A couple of pics from today.




Anyone who says the 4WS rear subframe + motor aren't heavy is dreaming, that whole thing weighs a tonne compared to the 2WS parts. The only problems I'm having at this point are, apart from accidentally dropping the muffler on my shin, is the top nut won't come one of the rear dampers and I need to get myself a ball joint separator. I've decided I'm not even going to try and push out the old bushings myself, I know a guy with access to a press so I'll just hand it all over with a carton of something. I might have to get myself an impact driver too, I really want to get those rear brake dust shields off but the rotors are held in quite well.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:16 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Buy the Milwaukee 1/2 cordless it is a beast
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:39 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Thanks OGS, I was more thinking of the manual version like this

Considering I only need to use it a few times I don't think I need to go so hardcore. I know some guys who have one like the Milwaukee and they think they're indispensable, I bought myself a really good breaker bar not that long ago and ever since there hasn't been a bolt I couldn't undo.

BTW, tried for a couple of minutes this morning before leaving for work with a drill and a cushioned G-clamp and got that stubborn top nut off that damper.
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:18 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

^^ that tool is worth it's weight in gold.

But the bits matter when it comes to the flat and phillips screws.
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 07-20-2015, 11:39 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Just quickly, I bought a ball joint separator last night and messed around a little in the dark breaking down and separating all the pieces ready for cleaning and the bushings to be pushed out.

Just FYI, I bought this one:


The jaw opening is only 19mm, as it seems many of this style of "mini" ball joint separators are, but it does not fit around the lower rear ball joint. Maybe I should have gone for the larger one but perseverance once again won out and I finally got the lower joint free by keeping the nut on and just having the separator off to the side. I do like this style over a pickle fork since it doesn't damage the ball joint rubber at all.

My ball joints seem to be in pretty good condition, the rubbers aren't dried or cracked and they move around nice and smoothly, but now I'm wondering whether or not to just replace them all while the whole thing is apart. It's one less thing to worry about. I think I remember reading that the joints are the same from front to rear. I can't find any upper ball joints that aren't adjustable though, and for $370 all up I can think of other things I'd rather have. Same deal with the wheel bearings actually, they seem in good condition so I can't see much point in replacing them.

I was chatting to one of the guys I work with and he has a manual impact driver I can borrow, the only thing better than cheap tools is free tools.
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Old 07-21-2015, 12:40 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Front and rear lower ball joints; Honda part # 04510-SL5-000... It's a kit that comes with two of them. Maybe in Australia it will be a more cost-effective option for you. It doesn't come with the castle nuts though, so don't screw those little bastards up or you'll be out like $8 USD per nut haha.

Front and back are the same, just finished putting them all in my 4th gen. For the uppers, it's possible to find regular ball joints. Moog makes some. Most people elect to buy the whole UCA out of ease though.

As a result of using a pickle fork and destroying the rear toe arm boots, I also learned that you can buy either new ball joints for those, or just new boots with retainer clips. I figure as long as we're on the topic and you're going through restoring this part of your car, it'd be relevant information.
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Last edited by Lindso; 07-21-2015 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 07-25-2015, 04:58 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

So I took a break from working on the Honda today. A little back story, I've been trying to get my wife into motorsport for years now, she's not completely against it but we haven't been able to find anything she truly enjoyed. She hates driving the 'lude and is not comfortable on a track due to the other drivers. One of our friends runs a local car club which puts on Khanacross and Motorkhana events. A few months ago we went and watched a Khanacross and she was pretty excited to get involved, so we bought a $400 beater Mazda 121 just for this purpose. All it needed was a new set of driveshafts and to rip out the mouldy rotten interior (also, because racecar) and she's all set.

Today was her very first Khanacross event and I'm pretty proud of her efforts. She took out the trophy for 2nd in the female class.

Introducing "Duke"





The other 121 sitting next to it in the last photo was run by another first timer, bought an unregistered paddock basher for a couple of hundred bucks and he took out the under 1.6L class for the day. He actually helped us out a lot, during her 4th run she must've rolled a tire off the bead a little where it's then filled up with mud, whatever the case it wouldn't hold pressure any more. Since he had the exact same wheels and he trailered his 121 out (we drove ours) we swapped our busted wheel for his good one after his last run and before ours.

I think she's hooked.

Also, thanks for the info Lindso. I've been cleaning up all the parts a bit and I think the UCA's are fine. I'm not too sure about the lowers, the rubbers are looking a little rough. I think I might wait to see what condition the fronts are in. Good news is I can get the Moog lower ball joints locally for not much more than getting them shipped from the US, so a last minute decision isn't going to cost me weeks waiting for parts to ship in this case.
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:35 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Cool story.


That has always been my favorite type of racing.

Those mud covered awd cars flying through wooded trails at warp speed somewhere in Germany or something....
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:08 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

What on earth did I do last weekend??

Progress has been VERY slow lately, just cleaning and whatnot. I had the privilege of being able to use a friends hydraulic press so I managed to push out all the UCA bushings and 4 of the 6 LCA bushings during the week. The last two and the trailing arm bushings are proving very stubborn though. I bought myself a "Creme Brulee" torch (that's how I justified it to the missus) and burnt out the rubber but a) the remnants that are left on the trailing arm will not budge and b) getting the metal sleeve out of the LCA is very tedious. Pictures tell 1000 words though.

Cleaned and re-bushed UCA's


Having two small white fluffy Jack Russell's does not help things during shedding season, their hair gets in everything and that ES bushing grease is like if Vaseline and superglue had a sticky little baby. Still, new bushings give me a warm fuzzy feeling inside.


Freshly cleaned and re-bushed coilovers. Note where the bump stop sits now, since it sits so snugly on the shaft I figured it was better to sit at the top right under the top mount so it doesn't squeak as the damper moves up and down. Also note I've now wound these things nearly all the way down, when I first put these in I was tucking tire with the platform about 1 1/2" higher, removing so much weight from the back has given me too much unwanted fender clearance. I've also wound the damper to its hardest setting, i'm surely going to blow these things up very quickly.


And the dreaded LCA and trailing arm.

What a nice job the press did.

And where I'm at with the other method.



I was not planning on painting any of these parts since initially they looked to be in quite good condition. There was a bit of rust starting to form on the trailing arm where the bushing get's pushed in and I've managed to damage the paint quite a bit getting the old ones out so I picked up some chassis black in aerosol form. Now I'm going to have to paint everything aren't I?

In the end I needed a morale boost so I mounted the rear cross-member and toe arms.

As you can see, I'm NOT cleaning the chassis/body/wheel arches Wing-style. We don't get heavy snow here so rusty undercarriages aren't much of a problem.
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Old 08-09-2015, 02:53 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Just quickly, perseverance wins again. I mean, in a game of rock, paper, scissors, perseverance, perseverance wins every time. I have one trailing arm ready for paint (have to wait for the mercury to go up and the precipitation to stop coming down) and one LCA in the laundry tub getting a bath.

A random question now though, inside where all the bushings go is bare metal, should it stay that way? Surely the ES bushings will prevent any moisture getting in these bad boys and any paint will probably just wear off quite quickly, but I really feel strange having bare metal in there.
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Old 08-09-2015, 05:12 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

To answer your question, me personally, I'd at least coat it with primer or Locktite rust convertor spray if you guys have that stuff...

The turtle was big on perserverance vs the hare.
We know who won that race, don't we?

I usually end up the paper in the vs scissors thing..but have learned to shape myself like the rock. Scissors never knew the difference.
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:24 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Groan, Another weekend with no progress. Been doing a tonne (metric not imperial) of overtime so Hazel loses out. I did however find these puppies for sale nearby.



All I can say is



Dunlop 03G softs. These things will stick like **** to a blanket.
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Old 08-16-2015, 08:24 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

All I can say is...


^^ them some sticky lookin' tires....
Hope the tracks pavement can take 'em...
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welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
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I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

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Old 08-16-2015, 08:53 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Grease will prevent any rust from forming. Thats why you can toss some grease or oil onnits and bolts and just wipe them clean when ready to remove. Notice any place with an oil leak is the cleanest once the oil is cleaned off lol.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:08 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

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Originally Posted by wing8806 View Post
Grease will prevent any rust from forming. Thats why you can toss some grease or oil onnits and bolts and just wipe them clean when ready to remove. Notice any place with an oil leak is the cleanest once the oil is cleaned off lol.
The question is Wing, what will YOU be doing? I had a look and the chassis black I'm using recommends an enamel primer over any bare metal, I think I'll do as Byk suggested and at the very least prime inside where the bushings go. The bushing grease itself seems to be pretty waterproof so should help seal it properly in the future even if the paint does wear off.

I've started writing a to do list for the next track day (November 29th), damn only 3 1/2 months away.
- Finish removing old ball joints from LCA's
- Prep and paint both LCA's and trailing arms
- Finish stripping 4WS wiring out
- Install new bushings and reassemble
- Repair broken chassis rail and get reinforced rear sway bar mounts made
- Do the whole process again for the front bushings (probably won't have time)
- Get a wheel alignment
- Get a decent race seat, wasn't initially a priority but with the semi-slicks I doubt I'll be able to hold on without one, means getting a proper seat rail and harness too
- Finish restoring the Enkei rims. Includes replacing any broken bolts, double checking the torque of all the others, installing new valves, getting them balanced and getting the tires mounted. I'll have to grab some OEM style lug nuts too, the ones I have use the hex bolt adaptor and I hate them, I generally strip one every time I change wheels (and they're steel)
- Seriously considering an oil-pressure gauge. Getting the semi's has really pushed forward my time frames but given the extra traction I'm very worried about oil starvation. A baffled sump is the next obvious step if I am having issues.

I have a full set of brake caliper repair and hardware kits, and a new clutch master and slave cylinder sitting there ready to go too, I think they can wait until later since I'll do a full proper bleed after the next track day anyway. I'm still undecided if I'll replace the brake/clutch lines with stainless braided ones yet, I was talking to the bloke I bought the tires off (who is a SERIOUS tarmac rally enthusiast) and he suggested stainless might be a bad idea since I'm already having issues with rear end lockups, the rubber lines reduce pedal feel but give a bit of a margin for error and given my lack of ABS sounds like a good idea. Dropping the rear end back down should help with the weight transfer a little but chances are I'll throw in a brake bias valve if I'm still having problems.

Last edited by tassievteclude; 08-17-2015 at 04:41 AM.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:29 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Most paints suggest a base coat/primer prior to the main visible coat. That's why i'm doing (2) coats of base and (1) top coat. Usually a good idea since nearly all off the shelf top coats are only good enough for a nice look, but won't last as long without good prep/primer.

The top coat I'm using can be sprayed over rust and seal everything - but i'm doing multiple steps more to make sure no stone chips etc bring rust back.



As for the nuts and bolts - Most of mine are in reasonably good shape, (minus anything 10mm that i'm afraid to reuse and break) so i'm going to experiment with some old bolts outside and see what holds up better: ES bushing grease, Wolfs head water resistant red grease, or WD40. Thinking the read grease will last the longest. If not, i'll just rubber coat the bolts and peal it off whenever i need to remove them (slim odds of needing to do that!)
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:03 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Hooray, after many weeks of overtime and other commitments I finally got a few hours to work on the car. I managed to fully re-assemble the passenger side (LHS here) rear suspension and got the other side's control/trailing arms fully prepped and painted. I rolled the LHS fender but managed to bust the paint a little doing so, I'll add a little more heat when I do the other side which should help a bit. Taking a leaf from Wing's book I actually cleaned the wheel well out too, no rust so I didn't take it any further though. I have attempted to do a small bit of repair work where the rear bumper mounts on the LHS at the back of the wheel well too, it must've been in an accident at some stage which has broken the plastic tab on the bumper and bent the metal bracket back. Until now I've never bothered dealing with it (as evidenced by the 100MPH tape holding the bumper on) but I have bent the bracket back into position, sanded back and painted the damaged paint, and added a zip-tie fix to the broken tab to hopefully hold it all together. When I took the rear bumper off I noticed a fair bit of rust has started to form on the support bracket so I took that off, cleaned it up and painted it too.

I test fitted one of the 8" wide Enkei's and my current wheels on the back and jacked them into position to see how much clearance I have around everything... heaps. I also cheated a little by clocking all my bushings with the car still on stands and the wheel jacked up into the right spot, I know that's not the way I should do it but there's no way I can see to get a torque wrench under the car with it sitting on the ground, and it's just too low to get on ramps.

Anyway, just a couple of pics.




I'm not real impressed with the top castle nut on the Hardrace toe arms either, the nut sits way too low by the time it's torqued correctly so that the split pin doesn't actually hold it. Apparently the Megan arms have the same issue. The solution is to just install a few washers to pack out the castle nut so I'll fix that when I do the other side.
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Old 09-14-2015, 12:28 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

If the zip tie doesn't see sunlight it should last a good while.
Check into 'riot cuffs' which are heavy duty zip ties used in situations where dozens of folks end up getting arrested in say...a riot.

Sux you have to use washers below the castle nut. Be sure to use good ones...if possible grade 8 or better and stainless would be a plus.
Don't know how they grade metals where you are.
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 09-14-2015, 10:50 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Well here was my ziptie fix



As you can see, it's a very small ziptie. All I'm trying to do is stop the front part of that clip from flexing out, there is a bolt on that corner of the bumper that is supposed to hold it on but because the clip can't stay put it just keeps popping out. Because it wasn't actually screwed to that metal bracket below it either there was essentially nothing holding that side of the bumper in place until the plastic clips under the tail light and the rear bumper stay, so any good breeze could have ripped that corner completely off. If my ziptie fix doesn't hold then I'll look at reinforcing that corner with some fibreglass, but I get the feeling that the clip in question is mostly cosmetic. What pisses me off is that a bodyworks shop would have been tasked with fixing this when the damage was originally done (before I bought the car) and a different shop had another go at it when I had the rear bar resprayed a few years ago.

We do have a different scale for tensile strength than you guys too, looks like our Class 10.9 is the same as SAE grade 8 and can hold over 1000 Mpa before fracturing. I was going to go with 316 stainless but that can only take 700 Mpa, so I guess I need something a bit more high-tensile.
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Old 09-15-2015, 06:52 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Try a washer on the screw. Thats how I have the front corner of the civic held on
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Old 09-15-2015, 08:34 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

I just figured at the track the better washers would be more suited.

That zip tie fix looks like it'll do the trick.

If the plastic lets go maybe consider a pair of wires straps wrapped around much smaller screws. (1/8" or about 1mm)
Ya take some copper wire, say 18 gauge and wrap it around a pair of screws, fasten screws, then wrap wire segments to pull the 2 bumper sections together.


^^ an ugly sketch.
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead

Last edited by bykfixer; 09-15-2015 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 09-15-2015, 12:47 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Would be some verrrry tiny bolts.


Plastic weld at that point
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Old 09-15-2015, 07:58 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

So I test fitted the bumper again last night (it's early spring so I only get about 8 minutes of daylight after getting home) and I was both right and wrong at the same time. The bolt halfway up the wheel well seems to hold the weight of the bumper nicely and the busted clip just keeps the top flush with the bodywork as I thought, but the bolt that holds the clip is actually further to the left of my ziptie fix. So I've pulled the old ziptie out and put in a longer one which loops around the fixing screw when the bumper is in position. It's not quite as solid as the other side but I think it'll hold.

There was a bigger washer on it before, but there just isn't any meat left in that area for it to hold on to.

Now I've just got to clean off all the sticky remnants of the 100MPH tape.
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:30 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

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Originally Posted by wing8806 View Post
Would be some verrrry tiny bolts.


Plastic weld at that point
Figuring on leaving as much meat as possible around the holes when tensioning the wire.
And plasti weld is a great idea.

Sounds like you got this Tassie.
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welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
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Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 09-28-2015, 12:20 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Huzzah!!

She's back on the ground. Toe arm fix worked a treat, a couple of high tensile washers on the top and one underneath and the split pins hold everything in. The bumper fix seems to be holding too, a bit of highway speed doesn't worry it so hopefully a bit more won't either. There is another problem now that it's lower in the back in that the camber is obviously way out and there's no way to adjust it. I have only eyeballed the rear toe for the minute too so it'll be interesting to see what the numbers from the wheel alignment come back as. Anyway, despite all this I HAD to go for a test drive.....

I may have scared myself just a little bit. The back end is so tight and if now handles like it's on rails, but something just feels off. I think there a number of factors involved, the lack of a proper alignment, the extra stiffness in the back end compared to the front, the fact my DD is such a boat by comparison, having driven the wife's 121 that morning which has no PS, the now lack of 4WS, and the paranoia of hoping I didn't miss anything on the reassemble and listening for bolts falling out, but it was a very nervous drive. The steering is so precise it's actually a little off-putting since every minor adjustment to the steering wheel actually moves the car across the road. The back is SO stiff it feels like the wheels are barely on the ground half the time. The power steering assist is way too strong so there is very little feedback through the steering wheel, there were a couple of times I pushed the car into understeer without realising and without any warning, I could hear the tires squeal and feel the car understeering but felt nothing through the wheel. I'm not sure if it's any worse than before but I'm not a huge fan. I think once I get the front end rebuilt it'll help a lot and driving it some more should get my confidence up too.

Anyway, a few pics that don't do it any justice.





There was a mid-week arts project in the house too.


I'll try and get a few more over the next couple of days, hopefully showing off the troubling rear camber.

Last edited by tassievteclude; 10-05-2015 at 04:22 AM.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:10 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

I can relate to the first drive and wondering bolts are all there.
So my trip was short...like 100 yards....then I did a few figure 8's in a parking lot. Nothing popped or clunked. Phew.
All was ok, so I drove it to an alignment shop and had them give it a gander. It was good and as a bonus my alignment was spot on. (Pure luck there).

I can't get my mind around dialing in a front wheel drive. So how to reduce understeer is like speaking Martian to this guy. But it sounds like you're on the right track if it feels like being on rails...pun intended. lol
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welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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