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:::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

 
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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2016, 12:23 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Grrr, these darn brakes.

I fully bled the system twice with new fluid, double and triple checked all the line connections and still I've got very little feel/pressure in the top 2/3rds of the pedal travel. Once the pedal gets pressure there is plenty of bite and I can't get my foot all the way to the floor so I suspect it is not the master cylinder, pumping the pedal doesn't make it any better either. I do want to test the booster and check valve again, these checked out ok before I did the caliper rebuild but I'm not willing to rule these out yet. Went for a short drive and I can get temperature into all 4 calipers and the handbrake will lock up both rear wheels so at least I didn't bugger anything up with the caliper rebuild, and getting roughly even pressure at all 4 wheels suggest's to me that it isn't the proportioning valve either.

Now, I do have a slightly warped left-rear rotor and the pads up back are likely the original ones still. I suspect that the warped rotor is what is causing the issues but I can't for the life of me work out how, except for maybe it's causing that one caliper to have to travel farther when braking thus meaning I have to move the pedal further to get the others to bite, but doesn't explain why the pressure doesn't come back when stationary. I'm really opposed to the "keep replacing bits until it's fixed" mentality but at least replacing the rear pads and rotors (which needs to be done anyway) eliminates this possibility and I don't have to bleed the damn system AGAIN.
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:49 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Could it be as simple as the resevior cap doesn't hold vacuum well?
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I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

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Old 06-29-2016, 06:18 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Honestly I don't know at this point. Everything I check and every test I do comes up ok, for what I can tell the brakes should just work. It's been suggested that the problem is in my brain, that maybe a caliper was seized or there was a blockage in the system creating a hard pedal which I have now fixed, and the pedal feel I have now is correct, but I'm not buying it. The only thing I can identify as obviously wrong is that warped rotor. Under light braking I can definitely hear that corner grab almost at the top of the pedal and long before any of the others, so my theory is still holding true. The rear pads are Nisin brand too so I suspect they are the original ones that came in the car, I've never changed them myself so they're at least 10 years old anyway. The missus turns ahem.... thirty in a few days so extra funds are being poured into celebrating that milestone, I'll chuck some new brakes in the back in a week or two and see what's what. They have to be replaced anyway so it's not a waste if it's not the issue.

Ran my second Motorkhana on the weekend in the Prelude and didn't do too bad, I beat the wife by a reasonable margin but she's blaming it on having an off day. Being the dead of winter here the day started at -2.8C (27F) and didn't get above 9C (48F), so there was practically zero grip on the shiny concrete pad we're now using. We had a field of 54 which is great to see but there wasn't a great deal of bum-in-seat time and we were running basically from dawn until dusk. Having a working handbrake would have made things easier too. Still, no complaints, the car still has a lot more to give than my skill level can tap at this time.

Nice to see you around too Bykfixer, haven't seen your name crop up much lately.
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:18 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Sounds like you're still having max fun with your car.

Sounds like you should feel what you felt before pressure-wise. I get the 'coulda been a clog' part though.

Any plastic brake lines where it used to be metal?
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I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

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Old 07-01-2016, 04:31 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Shouldn't be. The new flexible lines are a teflon hose with stainless braid and a pvc outer sheath and all stainless fittings, so these should resist bulging a lot better than the stock lines did. Apart from these the lines are solid all the way from the master cylinder, only stopping to pass through the proportioning valve. Once inside the caliper the replacement bits are all OEM spec, so unless I've inadvertently cocked something up or have an air bubble trapped inside somewhere then these should be oktoo. I think I'll pop the calipers off and check for leaks though and give the car another once over to make sure I haven't popped a hard line or fitting.

I've thought some more about your suggestion of the fluid reservoir cap too. I wouldn't have thought it would matter if this was sealed or not, surely the lid is just there to stop fluid splashing out or dirt getting in. I would have thought so long as the master cylinder stays wet then this part is doing its job. I've always bled the brakes with the cap off, have I been doing it wrong?

Got a bit of dirt and debris out of the lines when I last flushed the system but nothing large enough to create a blockage, unless it broke up a bit in transit. The calipers were really stuffed though, a few pins were completely dry and one I had to force to come out. In any case these needed doing badly.
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Old 07-03-2016, 12:59 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

A braided clutch line made a sons clutch pedal feel tons softer. To the point we bled the system like 20x before finally deciding it had to be the new tubing vs a formerly stiff wall metal line.

Bleeding with cap off is correct. But if the cap doesn't hold 100% it can allow some soft feel.
Air can go places fluids won't fit.

In my work we pressurize plastic waterlines with water at 150 pounds/square inch. It is held for 2 hours.
Plastic sewer lines are tested with air at 4psi, with a one minute delay before begining the clock. This is due to pressure drop during the wait time from the pipe expanding.

4 pounds of air expands the pipe way more than 150 pounds of water. Plus, if there is a leak you know instantly. So if we suspect a slow leak in a waterline it is tested with 3-3.5 pounds of air. Small leaks show up quickly.

For manholes we use vacuum testing. Again a very small leak will show in seconds. A manhole that is surrounded with water and dry on the inside may still fail using a vacuum test. No air is actually sucked in...it just will not hold a constant pressure. If a resevior cap leaks it could do the same.

Another reason to bleed brakes, or in some cases replace the fluid entirely... hydraulic brake fluid absorbs water. Heat from brakes heats the fluid, upon cooling condensation can take place. Said condensation gets absorbed by the hydraulic fluid. Being water is heavier it tends to accumulate at the calipers or in sags in the brake line.
Hydraulic fluid does not compress as much as water. So if there is water in the lines initial pedal press is trying to compress something that requires more effort, so soft pedal at first occurs.

Modern fluid has much less 'take up' of water. But if you have original fluid in the system it may have water mixed in it.
Now I say that knowing you said the change occured recently, so it's not likely the issue. But I also say it since you drive the car hard. So for future consistant braking (once you decide what the issue is and either figure out it is something you can live with or solve), replace all your brake fluid with new modern (if you haven't already)
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welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
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Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
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Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 07-20-2016, 07:18 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Strange, very strange.

Installed the new DBA heavy duty rear rotors and the Project μ NS400 rear pads. I have great pedal feel when the car is off but with the engine running the booster seems to be adding a lot of spongyness still. It's much much better now than it was though, possibly close to how it used to drive. I'm hating on this cable handbrake, it simply cannot initiate even the tiniest lockup at any speed. I think the pads just need a little more bedding in. I can get heat evenly into all 4 rotors quite quickly though so my bias doesn't seem to be off.

I'm thinking about doing a proportioning valve delete at some point in the future. The master cylinder has dual circuit output which normally splits diagonally across the car, means that if a circuit is lost then there is still some form of stable braking offered. I don't really care about this though. I want to split the bias front and rear. So, I'd go straight from one output of the MC to a tee and to each front wheel, and the other output would snake towards the rear, via an adjustable bias valve, through a hydraulic handbrake and then tee to each rear wheel. This would hopefully give some decent adjustability, give me a decent way of locking the rears during auto-tests and simplify the system greatly.

A few interesting points you've made there Byk. When I threw in the braided lines they didn't replace any solid part of the lines, only the flexible rubber bits. I can deal with if they add a bit of spongyness to the system, they are more there to protect against heat or debris rupturing a line on the track, needless to say would be very bad. I did double check the cap and it doesn't look obviously damaged, the seal is still nice and uhhh.... rubbery. And yeah, I've got very fresh brake fluid in there. It'd be interested to see if water would accumulate in the lines like you say, I've always thought of it as the water being absorbed into the brake fluid and not being actual droplets in the lines until the fluid is saturated. Hopefully everyone changes their brake fluid long before it gets that bad.
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Old 07-24-2016, 11:02 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Sounds like you have this tiger by the tail and slowly getting it tamed.
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welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 08-28-2016, 04:30 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Wow, just wow.

We went to another private practice day today, well sort of private. I was unaware but the day was also a practice day for the Tasmanian Super Series, meaning there were around 20 other people ranging from the historic class all the way though improved production up to the sports-GT class. It was a little intimidating so we went and played on the skid pan to learn more about weight transfer and get some bum-in-seat time practicing for Motorkhana's. I'm still thinking seriously about adding a hydraulic handbrake, the cable type system takes far too much effort and is too slow to be consistent. I like the suggestion one guy had about adding a second set of rear calipers and using an independent hydro system, rather than trying to add one to the existing system.

By early afternoon just about everyone else had gone home so we had free reign of the track again.

So the brakes are fine. I pushed them and pushed them and couldn't kill them, I didn't even see any fade until after about 14 laps of consistently heavy braking. I moved my braking points forward a long way which had a massive impact on lap times. I beat my PB by 3 seconds, down to a 1:12.18, and managed to keep those sort of times fairly consistently. I am still running on the street radials too. The front rotors have turned blue. I'm seriously happy with the car now. Now on to proper modifications since I think I managed to not break anything this time around.

Just a quick dirty pic as proof it was on a circuit.

Last edited by tassievteclude; 08-28-2016 at 04:37 AM.
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Old 10-07-2016, 08:43 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Diet time.

I've spent the last few weeks finding ways to shed some extra weight from the old girl. The sunroof is an obvious place to start, I didn't want to resort to riveting in a sheet of aluminium or try to make a fibreglass plug at this stage, and there is practically no such thing as a sunroofless Prelude in Aus to swap the roof from, so I made up a couple of Aluminium brackets to hold the stock panel in place.

The old bulky frame.



The new aluminium bracket.



A better view.



The frame and motor weigh a total of around 7.5kg, and the brackets I made weigh a little over 250g each, so around a 7kg saving for the sake of a day or two messing around. The stock panel itself weighs around 6kg though so I could still save a little more here by cutting out the bracing. My panel is rusted quite badly though and is starting to bubble again despite my efforts to save it a few months back. As it turns out the stock panel doesn't not leak either which is why there is a gutter and drains underneath it. Even after fiddling around with the positioning a little I have some sizable gaps around the panel still, not sure what I'm going to do there except not drive in the rain. Looks like long term I'll be replacing the whole thing though.

The sunroof panel still appears to sit in the stock location.



But on closer inspection.



I bought myself a spot weld remover, nifty little drill bit that will only drill one layer of steel where two are spot welded together. Handy for removing random brackets and the like without drilling holes straight through the bodywork. Managed nearly half a kilo more here before I smashed all the teeth off the bit, a less gung-ho attitude is necessary here.

For instance, the jack bracket removed.



Then the fun job, removing body deadener. This should be easy they say, it'll only take an hour they say, you'll save so much weight they say. Yeah right. This was one of the most tedious and uncomfortable jobs I've done on this car to date. Before I started.



So, using dry ice of course, I could get some decent sized chunks of the deadener to come out of the boot and from under the back seats with relative ease. The hard part was the main floor pan itself. Some parts would come away easily but there were sections where the lovely folk at Honda had spilled seam sealer on the floor pan before putting the deadener mat down. The deadener would go brittle with the cold but would still be stuck to the excess sealer. Half a day with a hammer and chisel and the pan was uncovered.



It took a few more days of tedious work to get the rest of the excess seam sealer off. All this work saved only around 6kg of weight.

Once finished, cleaned and reassembled.



I had also taken the opportunity to take out the main harness and strip out some of the extra wiring for options I don't have any more. There is still much more to come out but to date I've saved over 5kg in weight just in wiring (I've kept it all).

So for all that work I've managed about 15kg of weight savings. I'm going to have to dig much deeper to get more. I'm starting to think about things like lightweight heater cores, composite panels and fibreglass seats. Much further and I'll just be cutting out steel bracing from the body meaning I'll just be adding weight to get the chassis rigidity back up. There are a few emissions related items I can probably remove from the engine bay but they're not going to shave much. I still have to do the battery relocation but even with a lightweight battery this is really just moving weight around not removing it, given the extra weight the cable itself adds. If I ever go so far as to get a cage (I probably should) then I can save a fair bit this way but I don't think it'd be enough to offset the weight of the cage itself.
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Old 10-08-2016, 01:26 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Salute, i dig it.
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:11 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Hngh. With great (braking) power comes great (maintenance) responsibility.

After the last private practice day the brake pedal had gone spongy as it does every track day. Figured I just needed a bleed and all would be good again. Nope, I was getting crispy clean fluid out of the calipers which was strange. So I pulled the pads out and had a look.



Right hand outer pad. The rotor rotates from the scuffed part at the top towards the pitted part at the bottom. I wish I had got a pic of the left hand pads, there are chunks 5-10mm across missing from the pad. The edges on the LHS pads are showing more severe signs of thermal stress also. These pads are reasonably new, well 2 1/2 years old but they've only done maybe 3 track days and a few motorkhana's. There is tonnes of meat on them still.



A pic of the RHS rotor. Ignore the minor rust spots for the minute, I haven't been for long enough of a drive to remove them all properly, but for the most part I think they look ok. No signs of cracking but some minor scoring evident, possibly from the damaged pads.

The calipers themselves still look fine, no signs of damaged seals or anything from the heat. The pins were a little sticky but didn't take a lot of effort to free them up.

Looks like I'm after a higher temp pad for the next track day. The Bendix Ultimate's I was running up front have a rumoured temperature range of 0-550C (32-1022F), but there is no official data from Bendix to support this. My DBA 4000 rear rotors have thermal indicators which turn white at various temperatures, on one side I tripped the green one which means that rotor was over 458C (856F) but under 550C (1022F). I can only assume that the fronts got hotter than this. I'm looking at the Project mu HC800's for the front which have a temp range of 0-800C (32-1472F), hopefully these do the job. The next step up is to go to a full race pad but these generally have to be warmed up to start gripping, no good for low speed events and I don't really want to run different pads at different events.
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:17 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Busy week.

I ran in the second local Gymkhana for the year on Saturday (they're a bit different to the Ken Block stuff, more a low-speed tarmac rally sprint) and I appear to have improved greatly in the last 6 months. Seat time, a little confidence and finally working out some of these ongoing issues with the car has helped a lot I think. Out of 36 entrants I managed 9th overall, a huge improvement from 35th out of 38 I got back in March.



Passed my first kidney stone on Monday night too.

The Bride seat rails I ordered from Japan (second hand) arrived yesterday and so I took my downtime as a chance to install the fixed back seats I've had sitting in the shed for nearly a year.




The seats are nothing flash, just a generic steel fixed back. They're a little lighter than stock seats too, with rails fitted they're around 12kg each where the stock seats are around 17-18kg each so I've just managed another 10kg+ without trying too hard. Since the rails are about 5kg of that I'm not going to save much more weight by moving to a fibreglass seat, maybe 1-2kg but this would be offset by the additional brackets I'd need in order to mount one. The current ones I have are base-mounted and don't need adapters but it means the tilt can't be adjusted.

I'm really after a harness bar now though. I like the look of the one that they got made over in the UK a few years back. It goes between the rear upper control arm mounts so it adds some decent chassis rigidity where it is actually needed as well. I think I'll have to get one made locally though.
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:24 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Very cool!
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:06 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

niiiiiiiice
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Old 10-26-2016, 05:05 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Looks the goods mate! Just started doing a similar build with a JDM 4g.

You think the 4WS delete is worth the work? I've never had it actually work properly on previous cars so unsure what to expect from it on the track!
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Old 10-27-2016, 02:47 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Personally yes, the 4WS delete was totally worth it to me. I did not like how the car felt unsettled cornering at very high speed (100mph+), and due to the mostly medium-to-high speed corners at my local track the rear wheels weren't helping as they would be turning the same way as the fronts most of the time.

The delete itself was not that difficult or expensive, I just made it more so by deciding to do all the bushes, sway links, toe arms and fix the broken sway mount at the same time. I'd recommend trying it out with the 4WS and see how you like it first though.

Also, welcome to the site. Would love to see pics on your build.
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Old 10-27-2016, 02:18 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Did brake pad swap solve your issue?
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Old 10-28-2016, 12:46 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

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Did brake pad swap solve your issue?
Uhh, well no. The problem isn't fixed because I haven't done anything about it yet. The maintenance I did before the gymkhana (scuff the pads, loosen the pins, clean everything) gave me enough stopping power that I didn't die but that's about it.

It turns out the problem I have is trying to get the car to be good at too many things. In order to get a decent high temperature pad that won't break down or fade with repetitive track abuse, it ends up having a relatively low coefficient of friction when cold. When I'm getting spongy brakes it's simply because I don't have enough temperature in the pads to get them to bite, after the pads get hot it'll stop on a dime repetitively for at least a dozen laps at the track. For the low speed events I'm doing I would actually be better of with stock pads as they'd have a better stopping power in this situation, however these would be no good on the track. I think my only option is to start changing pads between events. My plan to put higher temp pads in for the track would only make things worse the rest of the time.
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:27 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Finally got around to installing some gauges.

Sorry for the glare. On the left is the water temp gauge I had before, middle is oil pressure and right is oil temp. Had a little troubleshooting to do after installing them, turns out if the ground wire slips off the back of the gauge it won't work properly



I went with the sandwich plate idea, I never liked the thought of the t-piece off the stock sender, too much weight hanging off too small a thread. Since there is a rubber gasket between the sandwich plate and the block, I had to run an extra ground wire too.



I found it interesting to see what the oil pressure gauge does while the car is warming up (idling in the driveway at least). I run 15W-50 full synthetic oil which I didn't think was THAT thick, but the gauge peaked to about 75psi at idle on startup. Within a minute or so it dropped to 25psi at idle but hovered there until I shut the car off 10 minutes later. With a little bit of a rev (no more than 2500rpm) it'd pop back up to 80psi. Even when the water temp was at around 80C (~180F) meaning the thermostat was open, the oil temp gauge still hadn't moved. It only budged off minimum right before I shut the car off. Since the oil doesn't reach its designated viscosity until 100C (I hope I used the right term there) it still had a bit of thinning out to go. It goes to show how little of the picture a water temp gauge alone is giving, and how long it takes for engine oil to even start doing its job properly. I feel bad for mainly driving for short stints in the daily for so many years.
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Old 11-21-2016, 11:50 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

So I did a few wiring jobs that have been on my list. I've added a diagnostic switch, since I'm still using the stock ECU but wanted to remove some of the more annoying emissions gear, I've put a switch in that can put the ECU in diagnostics mode and disconnect the check engine light. This way I don't have an annoying CEL going off constantly but I can easily check for codes if I think something is up.

This led to actually removing said emissions junk, so I tried making up a couple of block-off plates for the EACV and FIV. I'm going to buy an EGR block off plate though as this actually has to deal with hot exhaust, I don't think 3mm aluminium will cut it. Turns out there is a genuine Honda plate that was made for some markets (part number 18711-PM1-J00) which is only about $10 so should do the job nicely.

FIV plate


TB back in place


EGR valve has to go, I don't like that part of the rocker breather hose is joined to part of the FITV coolant hard line, I'll have to come up with a way of fixing this.


EACV block off


All the junk I managed to remove


The intake is starting to look a little tidier


And just because I haven't posted a full bay shot for a while


The slight problem I now have is that the ECU has no means of controlling the idle, even with the idle screw all the way out it idles a little too low. It is still idling smooth, just low. The fix is stupidly easy though. I'm simply going to run a small vacuum line from before the throttle body into the intake manifold. This allows just enough (filtered) air past the throttle body to get it to idle exactly where I want it to. No idle issues whatsoever.

I'd like to get rid of the EVAP system too, for no other reason than it is ugly. The problem is that it actually serves a pretty important purpose by allowing the fuel tank to breathe and by not letting fuel vapour discharge to atmosphere. All of the racecar solutions to this I've seen to this don't really solve the problem as well, they only mitigate the risk.

I've also finally bought a set of cheap OEM style pads for the back, hopefully I can get some decent low-temp response from the back end again with these.

Last edited by tassievteclude; 11-22-2016 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 11-22-2016, 01:37 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

why not keep IACV if its better for your idle?
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Old 11-22-2016, 02:18 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Because racecar

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Old 11-22-2016, 04:28 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

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Originally Posted by tassievteclude View Post
2) This helps the get up to temperature quicker and more consistently in colder climates, this is NOT my daily driver so this does not concern me in the slightest. It might get a cold start maybe 1-2 times per year.
Not talking about FITV, Im just talking about IACV

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4) Once the car is to temperature the air side of the system remains closed but still allows coolant to flow through, meaning there is hot coolant running through the throttle body and on a valve touching the intake manifold at all times. Higher intake temperatures are bad for performance so there should also be a minor performance increase (maybe 0.1hp). Still good is good.
Thats just BS, since you can just bypass/block FITV and relocate & keep using IACV like with Skunk2 manifold

check this
http://www.andysautosport.com/additi...07-05-0300.pdf

Just remove that line going from head to intake, get small filter there and block that intake hole and BOOM closed system where your IACV cannot get clogged that easily
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Old 11-22-2016, 05:16 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Finland rocks

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Old 11-22-2016, 06:47 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

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Sure, I could have just deleted the FITV and plumbed the coolant line back in straight from the IACV, but why bother with half a job?
to keep your base idle

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So my point of having hot coolant running right next to/through the throttle body is valid even if the IACV is bypassed, and the lack of needing cold start reliability is valid too. If the FITV's coolant lines are removed it'll never close and just let air past the throttle plate all the time too. I don't see the point in running hot coolant into the TB when I can get a decent idle without it, and I don't see a point in paying to replace a valve that I don't even want.
you started to speak about FITV

FITV can be removed and after you remove it and relocate IACV, theres no hot anything warming your manifold... aftermarket TBs delete FITV anyway but none of them deletes IACV

my point was that hot coolant warming your TB/IM is easily fixed when you just block FITV and relocate IACV - problem solved and you still have basic idle and IMO thats more simpler than delete IACV too and have some idle problems...
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Old 11-22-2016, 07:19 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Thanks for the support, you're the best TypeT

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Old 11-22-2016, 07:49 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

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Originally Posted by tassievteclude View Post
Dude, you can't even keep your story straight.
Dude, you dont seem to want understand what I wrote

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I'm not arguing with you about this, you won't convince me I have an idle problem when I don't.
of course you dont


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Originally Posted by tassievteclude View Post
even with the idle screw all the way out it idles way too low. It is still idling smooth, just low. I think I have no choice but to tighten the throttle cable a little so it'll run without stalling. I don't care if it idles a bit high when warm because racecar, I can call it launch control.
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It might idle a little high when warm but I suspect no more than 1,500rpm. It's not like I'm sitting in traffic ever so I can take the slight hit to the fuel economy.



Quote:
Originally Posted by tassievteclude View Post
Stop posting in my build thread unless you have something constructive to say.
there is a choice use IACV - no idle problems
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Old 11-22-2016, 03:16 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

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Originally Posted by TypeT View Post
why not keep IACV if its better for your idle?

Because: RACECAR
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Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

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Old 11-22-2016, 04:22 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

No worries mate.
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