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:::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

 
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2015, 03:15 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Groan. So heard the news this week that the local circuit is getting some major safety upgrades to bring it in line with FIA regulations and so we can keep hosting a round of the V8 supercars, while this in itself is good news it does mean the track will be closed until probably April next year. So my immediate plans to rush and get the car ready can be put off a bit, I'll be able to do a bit extra in the additional 6 months of downtime. Currently I'm thinking about:

- Strip and rebuild front suspension (have all the parts)
- Stainless brake lines
- Stainless clutch line & damper delete (have new master & slave cylinders ready)
- Rebuild brake calipers (once again, have the parts)
- Semi-slicks mounted (got these and the wheels too)
- Oil pressure/temp gauges
- Battery relocation
- Race seat mounted (have some just need rails)
- Shift light

Now I list it out like that there really isn't too much involved, it was the time restriction that was killing me before.

Also, as promised a gratuitous rear end shot showing off the camber.

Last edited by tassievteclude; 10-05-2015 at 04:25 AM.
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Old 10-05-2015, 12:29 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Suspension rebuild. I thought 2 months....over 3 later lol


Do it allllllll!
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Old 10-24-2015, 03:42 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Lol, easy for you to say wing, you ARE doing it ALLLLLLLLL!

But yeah, as soon as the sway mount is repaired I'm going to strip out and rebuild the front end too. After months of being messed around by the one and only welder I found that'd agree to fab up the new sway bar mount I finally got sick of it and went back to my old man and managed to convince him to do it.... but only if I drop out the fuel tank, run the lines dry and seal them all up before he'll go anywhere near it. Still, not a big deal and much better than waiting another few months. The current plan is to weld about a 200mm long patch (about 8" for you guys) made of 50x50x3mm angle (again, 2"x2"x1/8") mild steel over each chassis rail to reinforce it, then bolt the old bracket in place through the patch (just to make sure it's in the right place) then weld the bracket directly to the patch. I'm trying to convince him to weld some gussets in to make the whole mount stronger while we're at it but he thinks that without a bit of flex it'll just rip out again and next time we won't be able to repair it. I personally think the fix will be plenty strong enough and less compliance would be better, possibly akin to having a heavier rear sway bar. I'd much rather not have it break again though so I'll defer to his judgement.

I also pulled out the old Enkei's again today to see what I would have to do to restore them. Damn they're in much worse condition than I remember. I really should get them blasted and re-painted but really who cares because racecar? When I bought them the previous owner decided it'd be a good idea to rip all the bolts out (they're three piece BTW) of one wheel before realising that the centre is mounted BETWEEN the two outers so the wheel still won't come apart without breaking the seam. Luckily he never bothered to go that far so it's just a matter of putting the bolts back in. I tried re-using the old bolts that came with the wheels and only broke a couple but I was never convinced they'd hold. Today I tried to re-torque them all again and broke a half dozen more so I thought F*#^ it i'm not risking my life on these things and pulled them all out again. Now I can't find anyone to sell me some proper three-piece bolts except getting them from Japan for many hundreds of $$ so I figure any good quality M6x1.0 25mm long bolt (such as grade 12.9, the highest a steel bolt will go) would do the job and I found some nice allen head bolts to do the job. Only problem is that nobody seems to sell a serrated flanged nut (same as what came off the wheel) any higher than a class 8 which while still high tensile is a bit too soft for this application. Since I'm only meant to tighten these things up to 15ft-lb anyway it should be fine. I think I'm over-thinking this.

I've decided I want to go in the Motorkhana at the end of Feb so I don't want to get the car too far from road-ready again. From what I've seen there is a little less involved with re-doing the front bushings compared to the rear but we'll see. I definitely need to re-build at least my rear brakes too, one of the outer pads isn't seating properly and isn't scrubbing the rotor clean towards the outside. I've priced up the stainless brake lines, APP out of Japan which look like they'll be pretty good. I'm having trouble finding a full length clutch line for a RHD though, most of the ones on the market only delete the small section of rubber hose but I want to run direct from the MC to the SC. I think I'll see if I can get APP to make me a custom one.
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Old 10-24-2015, 08:42 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

I just tell myself an inch is 25.4 mm...so until you get into footage (meters in your case) those 0.4's are irrelevant...
Now when folks start talking centimeters?....

^^ that's when I'm gone...
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welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
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Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
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Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 10-24-2015, 08:41 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

^^ haha, I'm an engineer (albeit electrical) so centimetres is a meaningless measurement to me too.

Dropped the fuel tank out today. Hardest part was trying to work out how to get all the fuel out first. Oh, and thanks Honda for hiding one of the tank strap bolts above the exhaust heat shield.

Last edited by tassievteclude; 10-25-2015 at 03:17 AM.
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Old 10-25-2015, 02:32 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Yeah they love hiding things...

Many is a time when I had all the bolts loose and said item wouldn't come off...
Now I just assume there's a hidden screw or tab somewhere whenever doing work on the interior or on the exterior...

And it's why I disassembled numerous parts of Preludes at junkyards with no intention of buying said parts....
One day I disassembled the entire interior of a 3g and bought nothing from it.
Really helped later when I found one with perfect trim pieces and mint headliner.

I did a 4th one day...trying to figure out how to get the rear seat mounted subwoofer out, I noted half the interior was out...so I went ahead and did the passenger side.
If memory serves we did get some of that car.
Yet of all things...I forgot to grab the radio harness...it has a place for hooking up said subwoofer that the older models (pre-96) don't have. Ugh!

And as per usual, there were lots of hidden clips, screws and fasteners...

Not enough 5th gens near me to do that. Usually when I see it somebody has gutted it, ripping and tearing out what they wanted, thereby destroying much of the carcass.
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead

Last edited by bykfixer; 10-25-2015 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 10-25-2015, 09:04 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Don't 4th gens have a drain bolt on the bottom of the tank?

I know 5ths do. 5ths also are a real pain due to needing the rear subframe removed in order to access the strap bolts....as there is an extension bracket which usually has a seized bolt which makes it useless to go the easy route lol
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Old 10-25-2015, 10:15 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Yeah they do have a drain bolt, but I couldn't get my 20L jerry can under it even up on jack stands. If I had planned it better it would have just had less fuel in it, but the missus was like "hey let's do this today" and I didn't much feel like driving around all day, I still have a tooth ache from the commute across town. We managed to get nearly all the fuel out using the drain bolt into a smaller bucket but before the tank was empty and because the car was nose-down the fuel started flowing along the outside of the tank due to the surface tension of the fuel. We then tried to prime what was left in the system out with the fuel pump by taking the banjo bolt off the fuel rail, but found that the fuel pump doesn't just run until it achieves pressure in the system, it runs for like half a second each time the car is switched to "ON". This got old fast so we just dropped it with like 5L of fuel left in it.

The rear two strap bolts were easy enough to get to, they go into the chassis just in front of the rear subframe, but I didn't realise the tank straps are just flimsy plastic. The tank was supported by a jack with a big board over it which also held the straps in place, so it wasn't until I dropped the tank down it became obvious the straps would just bend away. It feels like the service manual could say more than "Remove bolts, remove lines, enjoy".

Definitely have to clean everything before it goes back in.
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Old 10-26-2015, 07:02 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Yeah, the manual can be vague at times.

When searching up technical stuff for the 93 version there was lots of info for the H22, but it seemed as though "got 2.3, you're on your own"...
Not even an "enjoy" at the end but more of a "shoulda bought the H22 version, sucks to be you" feeling.
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead

Last edited by bykfixer; 10-26-2015 at 07:04 AM.
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Old 11-01-2015, 06:43 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

The great chassis rail repair 2015:

Fuel tank is out and the car is ready to weld. We have fabbed up a couple of patches out of the angle steel and welded the stock brackets to them. Cleaned up and primed the old damaged rail and the inside of the new brackets. All that is left is to weld the darn things in.

It was a nervous moment tacking the brackets to the new patches under the car the first time, I'm standing about 20 feet away with the fire extinguisher ready to jump if I hear a woof. We've taken every precaution though so really it shouldn't come to that.

The tank desperately needed a clean, it's covered in some thick dirty greasy deposits that are an SOB to clean off. I found a bit of petrol would shift it a little easier but still is taking some time. The whole passenger side of the car is covered in this crap too, I have no idea what it is. I'm wondering if it's just road grime or if there is a tiny fluid leak somewhere. Anyway, I've scrubbed through the paint in a couple of places on the underside of the tank so it'll get a respray. Some idiot has obviously stuck a jack under the tank at some point which has dented the bottom in and damaged the paint quite badly, it was probably Honda when they dropped the tank out last time. I'm not even going to try and take the dents out though, just clean the rust off and paint.
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Old 11-02-2015, 02:18 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

^^ it aint an old and given out undercoating is it?
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 11-25-2015, 12:46 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Update time...

The chassis rail is repaired!!!!! It's kind of a long story though, many pics below to explain. We had the brackets ready to weld in some weeks ago. My dad's trade before retiring was a boiler maker, a pretty good one at that. You can see from the pics the welds he did attaching the stock sway bracket to the new chassis rail patch are pretty good, but this was all done on the bench. When it came to welding on the car, the less-than-ideal circumstances proved too difficult for his failing eyesight to manage. The top side was ok, he said himself that it wasn't his best work but it'd hold, but on the bottom side he blew a few holes in the chassis rail before calling it quits. On the plus side it was the wake-up call he needed to finally get himself to the optometrist.

I had a talk to the fabricator I was originally going to use and he was happy to continue where dad left off, but since we used a stick welder and he wanted to use a MIG, he preferred that we dig out the old weld as best we could. A few more weeks passed but we eventually got him around to fix it up. The driver's side (RHS) which we originally started on proved to be a bit of a nightmare, it seems that the chassis rail is a couple of sections of thin steel folded together to get strength, but for whatever reason these folds don't quite meet each other meaning the heat was not dissipating properly and making it very difficult to weld. He ended up going over the whole thing 3-4 times to get some decent penetration on the weld, doesn't look pretty but it'll hold. The passenger side (with the broken rail) was much more straightforward. He did that one in about 5 minutes with a single continuous weld.

The broken rail before starting, I really shouldn't have put the sway bar back in to move the car as I ended up doing a lot more damage.



The tank. First pic is the sticky gunk I had to clean off. You might be right Byk, it could be some sort of sealant to prevent rust. It is all over the underside of the car and doesn't appear to be coming from anywhere in particular. Anyway, primed and chassis blacked. I'm not a big fan of the big dents in it, but it holds fuel so who cares?




The new patches just bolted in place for the test fitting.



The hole from the first welding attempt.


The new welding job on each side, RHS then LHS, then painted and reassembled.








Finally the fuel tank back in position.


I also rotated the tires as I suspect the fronts hardened from being overheated on my last track day. Then went for a test drive.....

OOOHHHH BOYYYYYY!!!!! That was fun. She's back. This is the first time I've driven it without the 4WS and with a functioning rear sway bar and what a difference it has made. The problems I was having with understeer are all but gone. I actually managed to scare myself a couple of times, threw her into a corner expecting to lose the front end and it just gripped. It's still twitchy as hell and many times harder than acceptable on the street, but I'm getting used to it again.

Next stop Motorkhana on the 20th of Feb, look out. I'll drive it a couple more times then begin the teardown to do the front end bushings.
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:56 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Right on!

Great job on the repairs.
Again, this is a fitting way to keep an old car going.

Now, what exactly is a boiler maker? Boiler tanks?

It's a nasty alcoholic drink in the states.
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 11-25-2015, 04:35 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Awesome build!! It's nice to see people still use the forums lol.
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lol ya right i am a pussy...
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Old 11-25-2015, 05:05 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Lol, I forgot to translate there. We call steelwork fabricators "boilermakers" down here. Not sure why, maybe they used to make boilers?
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:22 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

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Originally Posted by tassievteclude View Post
Lol, I forgot to translate there. We call steelwork fabricators "boilermakers" down here. Not sure why, maybe they used to make boilers?
I guess here we'd call 'em either a submarine welder or one-weldin'-sum-b1tch.
Because you gotta be an ace #1 welder to weld a submarine or a boiler.

So I'd guess boiler maker is a compliment to a good welder and widow maker means YOU SUCK AT WELDING, huh?
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 12-27-2015, 10:47 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

^^You're probably right there Byk, if you're making boilers then I guess your welds would not only have to hold water but pressure too, not such an easy feat. I know plenty of guys that think they can weld but they can't even make an exhaust that doesn't leak. I'm thinking of getting the Progress 1" rear swaybar to make proper use of these beefy mounts now though.

So not much progress over the break, have 2 weeks off work but went up to visit the in-laws which is a 12-hour ferry trip across the pond (aka the roughest damn stretch of water in the world) and another 900km of driving in each direction so needless to say no work on the car.

In the week or two leading up to the end of the year I stripped and rebuilt the front suspension, certainly went much easier than the rear except I was surprised how much heavier everything is. All the bushings came out easily on the press so no cutting this time. I am a little concerned about the three-piece ES bushings on the front inner LCA mount, as you can see below there is a small gap on the inside that does not get closed up when the mount is tightened, the sleeve is much longer than the three parts together. I guess ES know what they're doing and all the part numbers match up so IDK. I'm also concerned about the front radius rod nuts, there is no way to get some thread locker under them as most of the nuts' travel on the thread is loading up the bushing. I think I'll get a couple of nylock nuts to either replace the stock ones or to go over the top, after seeing Merlin's nuts undo themselves on the track it's not a chance I want to take. My outer tie rods are getting pretty stuffed too, they don't have too much play in them yet but they're clearly cheap aftermarket parts and the boots are not holding up very well so I'll add new ones to the list.

The problem now, the motor is leaking very badly since I've swapped to fully synthetic oil. The whole transmission (top and bottom), the bottom-rear half of the block and the whole sump are completely coated so I've cleaned everything up best I can to try and track the leak. I'm suspecting at least the dreaded oil cooler o-ring and distributor o-ring are to blame, but I'll take the timing belt cover off and see what is going on there too. If it turns out to be a cam seal or something then I'll have to change the timing belt and probably swap to a manual tensioner while I'm in there. I'll be swapping to a slightly heavier oil next change to see if that helps too. I've rebuilt the VTEC solenoid recently so at least that should be ok.

You can see in some of the pics where the wheels rub inside the fenders. The 215/45R17's I have are a bit bigger than ideal for a 4G, the 225/45R16 semi's I have waiting are wider but are smaller overall in diameter. I suspect I'll actually have a bit extra clearance than before and may even drop the coilovers a little more once they're on, I still have half an inch or so before they're bottomed out.

Went to go for a test drive and 10 seconds out of the driveway the fuel light came on. I know for a fact there is at least 15 litres of fuel in it so I could have kept going but just went around the block and then home. The fuel gauge only seems to show the middle third of the tank between full and empty so I might pull the pump assembly and clean that too. It was a very fun couple of minutes drive though.

Anyway, pics:
Stripped, before cleaning.


After cleaning.


Nicely painted LCA's.


The gap in the middle of the bushing I mentioned.


I have a little trick where I put the wheel back on before putting the damper back in order to see how much clearance I have once the wheel is in position, it only works with double wishbone suspension but I'm pretty happy with it. I probably rolled the fenders for nothing.


Reassembled.


Reassembled inside.


The 2016 event calendar was finally released, turns out there is a track day on the 14th of Feb after all so I'll hopefully be in that. I'll miss round one of the Motorkhana series on the 20th of Feb though due to a business trip.
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Old 12-28-2015, 12:23 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

What a difference a good cleaning does!

Looking good man.


The only visual concern i've had with ES bushings - is the sleeve length is slightly shorter than what factory sleeves are. By this I mean a very small amount but it's enough to bother me since it pinches the subframes just a hair when tightening. Besides that, since they are free moving, as my fear before was the preload, there is none... so all that force is now entirely on the struts and not split between the struts and bushings. I question some of their quality control, as well as their engineers. Unfortunately I feel these bushings will wear faster than OEM and are without a doubt meant for track use and much more limited driving than a street car as most of us tend to use ours cars for.


Keep us updated on how yours work out, i'll be keeping an eye on mine as well.
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Old 01-09-2016, 07:26 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Thanks man. I'll definitely keep an eye on the ES bushings, I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary so far though. It was funny when we did the sway bar mounts, I took the RHS damper out as it was in the way of the mount and when it went back in I thought "screw clocking the bushing". When it went back on the ground it made a horrible squeal but nothing since, it seems that even when torqued correctly there isn't enough pressure on the bushing to stop it turning when greased up. They are only there to stop the lateral motion anyway not the turning on the axis of the sleeve, I guess that's why sphericals work so well. Anyway, there are no strange noises coming from the suspension any more, visually my old rubber bushings were fine but they certainly made some funny sounds with no interior in the car. I do so few miles in this thing now hopefully they last a while.

Moving on, did a little investigation for the battery relocation this week. A guy I work with bought one of the Moroso sealed battery boxes for his (Supra) build, he wanted to know the largest battery that would fit is and mine is pretty damn big so he let me borrow it. I have a NS70L (which is about the same size as a BCI group 24) and it was pretty snug. The box itself is huge, the only spots for it would be on the RHS of the trunk above the larger hump for the exhaust, which I don't want because I want it on the passenger side to offset my weight, or put it in the rear passenger seat position which I think it too far forward. So I've decided I'll just go with an Odyssey PC680 and stick it on the passenger side of the trunk, that way I don't need a sealed box at all.

I also borrowed a friends clamp meter and did a bit of investigation on the various electrical loads around the place and found some interesting things (interesting to me at least). So with the interior stripped there is practically no running current, like only around 10A, so the only significant draw on the battery is the starter motor. I measured a high inrush current of between 300A and 330A but only for a fraction of a second, and with the motor in its stockish form would easily start in under a second. After disconnecting the ECU the car would crank constantly at 110A. So while researching I found that nobody seems to agree on how to properly size the cable for battery relocation, with what I've measured I'm comfortable I can get away with a minimum 3 AWG battery cable (basically 26mm2), the 0 AWG or 00 AWG commonly stated as being the minimum is simply not necessary. The 3 AWG will handle the peak loads I've seen and more than comfortably start the car even with extended cranking without heating up beyond about 75C (battery cable insulation melts at 90C so anything under is fine). A 150A fuse/breaker close to the battery will handle the cranking of the motor, protect the cable and will not blow with the short peak current seen. An ANL type fuse or a decent thermal trip circuit breaker can typically handle over 300% the rated load for up to a second before tripping, or much higher for much less time. The 15 or so feet of cable needed will not have a significant voltage drop over this distance, only around half a volt. The voltage drop is commonly stated as being a factor in increasing the size of the cable too but when we're talking about 12V DC then even a 0 AWG cable is still dropping over 0.3V. Smaller gauge will be much easier to run too, be easier to crimp and be a bit lighter too. I think I'll use 2 AWG though as it is much more common down here than 3 AWG so costs about the same and gives a little headroom on the peak demand.
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Old 01-11-2016, 10:11 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Nice!!!

If you are using a big cranking amp battery then a wee bit of voltage loss shouldn't be a factor..as long as the alternator is doing it's thing...properly. 2awg should be fine...but to borrow a cliche'
Time will tell.

But why a big battery? Some go with ones for the Fit and other Matchbox sized cars...

Good stuff Tassie
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welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
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I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

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Old 01-11-2016, 04:59 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

The plan was just to keep the massive battery I have for the time being, my normal philosophy is that nothing is as cheap as something you already own. I used to have a pretty powerful stereo back in the day so I bought the biggest lead-acid battery I could find that would fit in the stock position and that's the one I'm still running. Yeah, it weighs just under 20kg so I'm rethinking that idea. Just buying a little dry cell like the Odyssey PC680 (under 6kg) should still run the starter and will be much much smaller. Being closed cell it doesn't require a box or venting and can be installed on its side, and by dropping the cable gauge to suit the whole setup won't be THAT much more expensive than trying to utilize the old one. The expensive part is going to be installing the 6-pole FIA approved battery isolator switch with external pull cord that I'll need, which can disconnect the ignition circuit as well as the battery to avoid run-on if there is a short in the alternator. Still, dollar per kilogram buying the smaller battery is the cheapest way I can see for me to lighten the car further without cutting holes in things (i'm not doing that).
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:24 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Makes sense...and in the meantime big Betty is still getting it done.
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welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
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Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 01-26-2016, 05:13 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

So I traced the bulk of my severe oil leak down to the good ol' cam seal. The OEM one is just junk and plastic so it has been replaced with an aluminium one. While I had the valve cover off I did a valve lash job at the same time. I had bought a valve cover seal kit in the last Rockauto wholesaler closeout and all the old seals and gaskets had gone hard and cracked so I threw that in too. Last one was a new distributor o-ring. The timing belt was only changed around 20,000km ago and looks like it's still in good condition but it has walked its way out to the edge of the cam sprockets. I gave the inside of the valve cover a good clean too. This motor has a lot of miles on it and clearly is showing its age. It looks like it may have missed a service interval or two in its life. There doesn't appear to be any major wear and tear save for a few scratches on the cams, and there is no sign of sludging, so apart from the varnish on everything to me it looks ok.

I have also changed out all the old rubber power steering hoses. Many of them were dried, cracked and seeping and the old wire clamps had almost bitten through the hoses. What a PITA that was. Most of the hoses around the VSS and on top of the steering rack are almost inaccessible using human sized hands. Eventually I managed using a variety of tools and swearwords to get the job done. I had an issue bleeding the air out of the system, seems like there was air getting in around either the feed or pressure lines on the pump. I've added a little RTV silicon sealant to both and most of the bubbles seem to have disappeared. I'll have to wait until I reassemble the exhaust to be sure though, I've dropped the downpipe and the mid-support beam so I can drop the sump.






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Old 02-14-2016, 10:09 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Awesome build you have there any updates?.
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:24 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Nah man, nothing particularly interesting since last update.

I dropped the sump and threw a new gasket on, cleaned a few things and threw on a new oil cooler o-ring before putting some fresh oil in. No massive metal chunks in the sump so all good. I've changed up to the Penrite Racing 15W-50 full synthetic which seems to have helped with the oil burning issues I was having. Changing all the gaskets looks to have stopped most of the oil haemorrhaging too, I still have a bit of a drip coming from the timing cover so I guess the cam seals are indeed toast. I have some new ones but I don't want to mess around in there until I'm ready to do the timing belt and swap to a manual timing tensioner.

I seem to have fixed the power steering 100% too, no more foaming or horrible noises from the PS pump and the hoses don't seem to leak any more, so yay.

So she's back on the road and running about as well as I can make her in the short term. Next stop is a Gymkhaha in just under 3 weeks which will be the first time the car has been driven competitively (read: aggressively) since early 2014, so should be interesting.
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:42 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Well, had the wheel alignment done today. Specs are:

......Before...After
Toe-in
(FL) 0.5mm 0.0mm
(FR) 0.5mm 0.0mm
(RL) -4.5mm 0.5mm
(RR) -4.5mm 0.5mm

Camber
(FL) -1.7 -1.6
(FR) -1.5 -1.7
(RL) -2.5 -2.0
(RR) -2.2 -1.8

Castor
(FL) 3.2 3.7
(FR) 4.0 3.8

So my sketchy as hell eyeball alignment was indeed sketchy as hell. At least I was consistent. Having so much toe on the rear was definitely what was causing the stability problems I was having, it is like a different car to drive now. Went for a quick burn on the way home and it is so settled now. Had a couple of moments where I tried to get the front to let go but just she drove through. I'll really have to push it (i.e. not on the streets kids) to know if I've eliminated or at least reduced my understeering problems too but I am super excited for the Gymkhana in a week-and-a-half. I am pleased that the rear camber ended up being as low as it is. I know less is more on a double wishbone suspension but I was really only hoping to keep it under 3 to stop the tyres from scrubbing and keep a decent footprint on the pavement. I just saved $600 by not having to buy those lame camber correction ball joints. Pulling the toe back in helped with the camber a bit anyway. We have a nice starting point now so we can dial in the toe better after getting a feel for how it drives.
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Old 02-26-2016, 04:37 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

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Nah man, nothing particularly interesting since last update.

I still have a bit of a drip coming from the timing cover so I guess the cam seals are indeed toast. I have some new ones but I don't want to mess around in there until I'm ready to do the timing belt and swap to a manual timing tensioner.
Yeah the cambelt change looks like a mission when it comes time for mine. Il be pulling the engine out so i can do the seals and belts etc in one go it will probably still go wrong lol .I was going with one of theses ks one i don't know if the manual tensioner parts from Honda might be cheaper/easier but this looks easy as.

KS tuned H22 Version 2 Timing Tensioner by KS tuned | KStuned.com
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:59 PM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

The KS manual tensioner is a direct swap for the auto ones we have making it pretty easy but it's expensive. I've seen this kit for sale too Manual Tensioner Conversion... which is much cheaper and uses all the components from the H23. I'm more leaning this way now since chances are after 200k km the old springs and pulleys are probably getting a little worn and need replacing too.

So been a busy couple of weeks. Last weekend was our first Gymkhana and the car performed flawlessly. It's probably not very suited to that kind of low-speed event being a bit heavier than desired and having such stiff suspension now, makes moving the weight around quickly at low speeds difficult. I had a mate drive her since I was after a 3rd opinion the handling and performance, this guy has been driving competitively for over 10 years and talks in car language I can barely understand, but he seemed fairly impressed with where she is at. He said if anything the springs are a little TOO stiff (still have the Tein standard 8kg/4kg coils) and are overworking the tyres on the bumpier stuff, but overall there is nothing really wrong with how she handles I just need to learn to drive. Apparently I've managed to set it up with fairly neutral handling with just a touch of oversteer which is basically what I was after.

I had the opportunity to go to a private practice day at the local track last Saturday, was my first time on the track in over 2 years and so much has changed on the car since back then. For reference, Symmons Plains Raceway:



The main problem I was having before was lacking confidence due to the strange high-speed handling of the 4WS. That feeling is gone now. The back end used to feel flighty around turn 5 (AKA the sweeper) which I chalked up to a lack of downforce, nope it was the 4WS. By the end of the day I had my confidence in the car back up and applying some better lines and braking techniques I pulled my time down to a 1:15.16, nearly a second quicker than my PB. I was out there with a friend in his stock Toyota 86 GT, which on paper sports fairly similar numbers to the Prelude (146kW, 205Nm, 1257kg) but has traction control, ABS, is RWD, has an LSD etc. and they were running Advan AD08's which are a hybrid daily/semi slick. Still, for the day we were running quite similar times, their best was a mid 1:15. I'm pretty happy with that.

A short video of a few of my laps. I did do better by the end of the day but kept forgetting to turn on the GoPro.


So between the Gymkhana, test driving and the private practice the car has taken a beating with no ill-effects. With the heavier oil and all new seals it doesn't burn much any more, we used about 1/4 litre at the track where on the 10W-40 we used 1.5L in the same time. The next step is to replace my rear brakes, they're one thing I've never looked at much and they're fairly toast. I'll throw in some DBA heavy duty rotors (not slotted or drilled, no need) and some Project μ NS400 pads. I have a set of caliper rebuild kits there too.

Last edited by tassievteclude; 03-14-2016 at 01:43 AM. Reason: Added Video
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:45 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Right on!

Over steer is way better than under steer.
It's like having the urge going into a corner too fast vs not fast enough.
You can slow down. Yet if your urge is too slow, that's a problem.
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welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 05-30-2016, 12:18 AM
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Re: :::Tassievteclude::: Tassie's 1994 JDM BB1

Long time no update.

So my theory that the car hadn't suffered any ill-effects from the day at the track was incorrect. The brakes were spongy by the end of the day which I chalked up to simply needing a bleed, so bled the brakes and still couldn't get full pedal feel back. Step two I tried a full brake fluid flush which helped but after the Motorkhana early last month they were feeling spongy again. I had previously bought some caliper rebuild and hardware kits during a Rockauto wholesaler closeout (Bendix and Beck/Arnley parts) for a grand total of about $30, so I decided it'd be worth trying to rebuild all the calipers as I suspected a slight leak.

I could not find much online on how to rebuild the rear's as they have the stupid handbrake gear jammed in there, where most manufacturers seem to opt for either a separate caliper or a drum arrangement inside the hub, but not Honda. This is not intended to be a comprehensive write-up so not all the steps are detailed. If using my words and pics as a guide, I take no responsibility and all that jazz. Wear gloves too whenever messing with brake fluid, that stuff is nasty. Anyhoo...

Step 1: Remove caliper from the car and strip all the hardware off it. There are infinite write-ups and tutorials online on how to do this.


Step 2: Remove the piston. The piston is quite easy to remove, it just rotates out. I used a large flat-blade screwdriver to lever against the X on top, apparently there is a special tool for this but whatever works.


Step 3: Remove the internal components, AKA the fun bit. From the first pic you can see there is a circlip which holds everything in place, but the hole where the piston would be is quite small and the arms of the caliper get in the way. Again there is a special tool for this job which is a 90 angle long nose circlip plier, I could not find these locally and didn't want to wait the weeks for shipping, so I modified a cheap set of normal long nose pliers. I had to bend the tips over slightly and squeeze the handles closer together in the vice but was finally able to get the circlip out.



Step 4: Clean. After removing the circlip these parts should all just pull out. The large brass-coloured pin slides out of the back of the caliper once the internals are free. The greasy yellow stuff would be the original grease Honda installed mixed with 20-or-so years worth of cruddy brake fluid. I also stripped and cleaned the piston itself, this bit is quite easy.




Step 5: Rebuild everything in reverse order. I used the Bendix Ceramic High Performance Synthetic Lubricant as it's rated from -50C to over 1650C, it comes in little 6g sachets of which I used three. Coat every rubber-metal and metal-metal contact area liberally.


When finished.


Step 6: Paint. I used brake parts cleaner and wax and grease remover to prep prior to painting. I also stripped and rebuilt the front calipers but this was significantly less troublesome than the rears. I also painted the hat section of the front rotors, not sure why though.




Step 7: Reinstall the calipers. Torque every bolt to the correct specifications, these can be found in the service manual. I took this opportunity to install some HEL stainless braided brake lines too.



The final step is to bleed the whole system AGAIN. I would have done this on the weekend but everywhere was sold out of my favourite brake fluid. Hopefully this gets rid of my spongy brakes issue, failing that the next step would be to look at the master cylinder (which was only replaced a few years ago) or maybe the proportioning valve. I can't find any obvious leaks from any of the hard lines.
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