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:::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

 
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Old 10-29-2014, 02:58 PM
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:::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Hey there, I bought this car with it already having a lot of modifications. It is a 98 Prelude Base Supercharged 5 speed with only 95K miles. Only 2 previous owners, first was a 3 year lease and the second has had it since. Bought for less than $5k at Honda Dealer. I normally just build cars from scratch. This is the first one I have bought that had a lot done to it already. I mostly bought it so it stays with a good home, and couldn't beat the price for the things it's already got . It does need some work but looking forward to updating you guys with its progress.





Updated List 5-23-16
Engine:
-H22A4
-Jackson Racing Super Charger @ 9-10psi
-Offhand short ram intake with Spectre filter
-Magstar 8.5mm wires
-MSD Power Tower Distributor cap and rotor
-MSD Blaster SS Coil
-NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
-DC Sports header
-Aftermarket 2.5" Catback exhaust
-Vibrant Muffler
-Remote oil filter
-Aftermarket Oil Cooler
-Stage 3 clutch
-Unorthodox Adjustable Cam Gears
-Unorthodox Power Steering and Alternator pulleys
-Crower heavy duty valve springs with titanium retainers
-Modified valve cover and timing cover to expose cam gears

Interior:
-Pillar gauges (Boost and Oil Temp)
-Boost/Retard timing controller in glove box
-Neuspeed Short shift adapter
-Upgraded floormats with black Accord mats with Diamond Plate

Exterior:
-Fog Lights
-"Prelude" shaved off bumper
-Stock spoiler

Suspension:
-Tein Super Street 24 way dampening full bodied coil overs
-Wilwood Front drilled/slotted rotors and calipers
-Rear Hawk drilled/slotted rotors
-Front Stainless brake lines
-17" Racing Hart C4 Wheels
-215/40/17 Dunlop tires

ICE:
-Optima Yellow Top Battery
-Pioneer head unit
-Upgraded blown rear Pioneer deck speakers to Boss OHC 6x9 from my Accord
-Blown pioneer door speakers

Misc:
-Viper Alarm system
-Hela Horns

Future Mods:
-New Depo headlights (Either blackhoused stock, or blackhoused projector)
-Tinted windows
-Upgrade Radio/Speakers/ Add Subs
-Type S Style Midwing Spoiler or Mugen Style spoiler
-Intersection Lights from my Accord
-Rear Fog Light
-Type S or Mugen style front bumper with skirts and rear lip or lip kit all around
-New Grill
-Oem hood bra
-New wheels and tires
-Rebuild suspension
-Upgrade header
-Repaint Valve cover
-Courtesy Door lights

Problems That Need Attention:
-Interior Door handle chrome peeling bad (Going to buy new OEM)
-Headlights hazed over and bent (Buying new headlights and straightening support)
-Hela horns hella weak (Sounds like a dying cow)
-Rear window Defroster barely defrosting (like 20 mins to barely see any defrosting lines(will probably replace relay and see if that helps)
-Hood damaged slightly and has large rust bubble
-broken front grill
-Brake lights not turning off when letting off pedal and cruise not functioning unless I lift up on pedal with foot (Suspect the Pedal stopper pad needs replaced)
-Random loud sharp squeak when applying brakes, not prolonged, Just very short and loud (will probably need new pads)
-Front bumper sagging(Will do washer mod on bumper support to correct)
-Window trim pieces corroded and spotted ugly (Will do wet sand and polish)

Dealer Photos









Last edited by ThundagooseBB6; 05-23-2016 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 11-01-2014, 12:05 AM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Update: 10-31-14

Today I took my car to the exhaust shop and had the muffler replaced. The old one was rotted out, So I put on a Vibrant muffler that was on my Accord and is only a couple months old. Looks much better and sounds much better. Will get a picture of the after results tomorrow as the weather has been pretty bad here today.

At the shop/ old muffler


Old Muffler removed
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Old 11-01-2014, 05:39 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

She's a bit dirty after the bad weather we had but here she looks with the new muffler..

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Old 11-02-2014, 08:25 AM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

looks good . . . at least its not a type sh . . . which make easier to hook up . . .its also faster . . .no atts . . .
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Old 11-02-2014, 09:32 AM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Ahhhh yeah! That mega rare tan interior all minty fresh.
Nice.


Quote:
Originally Posted by beasona910 View Post
looks good . . . at least its not a type sh . . . which make easier to hook up . . .its also faster . . .no atts . . .
what-the-heck are you talking about?!?
The SH was car & driver car of the year under $30k all 5 years it was made because it beat the pants off most of the cars it raced on a slalom course and many on the drag strip. The ATTS weighs about as much as the spare tire that came with it and contrary to popular belief is just as buildable as the base model. It's just that the ATTS won't do it's thing over 250hp. But if you swap in a base model tranny, you still have a car with better suspension than the base and stock engine has slightly better performance due to cam durations being slightly more potent.

The Honda Prelude was designed and built to be a road course car all the way back to the gen 1 model. It was never meant to be a drag racer or a red light to red light Mustang killer. It was meant to ride like a big car and handle like a go kart. And the SH model was the cream of the crop in that regard.
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I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

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Old 11-03-2014, 03:15 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

welcome, another green luder whoop whoop!!
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:12 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Update!

This past weekend I got a chance to tear down a bit of the prelude and start looking at the mess the last owner made and fix a couple problems.

Holy hell this front end looks terrible





Had to pull the front bumper off to fix this power steering leak.. would leak out about half the reservoir in just a few days.. all over my parking spot..





I thought the rubber hoses might have gone bad, so I started to replace them.




So I replaced the hoses and put on new band clamps. I also removed the rubber separator piece that sits between the lines on the reservoir side. The metal was quite rusted up but did not appear to be leaking.. I filled the reservoir back up and put the car up for the night. Came back out in the morning and found the entire reservoir in the drip pan I left under the car.. damn.. a good solid drip was coming out of the bottom line right on the edge of the hose on the reservoir side, so I pulled back the hose a bit and more fluid began pouring out of the top of the line through a microscopic crack.. I wasn't about to replace the whole line, so I drained what fluid was left in the system and cleaned up the line and laid some JB Weld over all the rust spots and the hole where the fluid was leaking out of. Let it dry and put it back together.. No leaks.. Yay

So, Then I had a chance to look at the filter on the CAI since the bumper was off and was not pretty.. You could not even see daylight from the inside of the filter.




So I went and bought a new temporary cone filter to use but when I got home and tried to put it on, it did not fit in the airbox well in the bumper... the AEM that was on it was all rubber and smashed on the one side where it sat against the wall in the bumper well .. The new one has an aluminum housing so it would not flex.. I got mad and decided to just yank out the CAI piping, since it didn't even look like it was the right one anyways, and then did a temporary retrofit SRI with tubing I had from my Accord.. It's not perfect but it works better for the time being..

After pics coming soon!

While I was in there, I took out the PIAA lights that the previous owner decided to install in the lower grill, and shortened and removed excess wires that the guy had hanging all over.. I also straightened out the oil cooler and cleaned up the support a bit. A lot of the tabs for the bumper are busted or bent up bad so the bumper has a super sag to it for the time being.. and also found that the headlight brackets are busted in a few spots.. When I get time maybe this coming weekend I will go buy new bumper tabs and then do the washer mod on the bumper to remove the sag. We'll see how it goes..

In the mean time.. Enjoy some filtered shots




Last edited by ThundagooseBB6; 11-11-2014 at 02:28 AM.
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:32 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

That's a good looking car dude, and holy hell-that air filter :( I would do 2 oil changes in quick succession after seeing that.

Why do your horns have cool covers on them? I want cool covers like that.
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:09 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
Why do your horns have cool covers on them? I want cool covers like that.

Hella horns, bra
Those are quite literally the first mod EVERY subbie owner does in addition to mudflaps


Very, very, VERY clean car mayne. Lovin the color, the wheels, and of course the boost
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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:13 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

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Originally Posted by twokexlv6coupe View Post
Hella horns, bra
Those are quite literally the first mod EVERY subbie owner does in addition to mudflaps
I want some!
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Old 11-11-2014, 02:34 AM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Hey thanks for the compliments guys! Yeah like twokex mentioned they are Hela horns.. Ive got some work to do on those i think.. they have a dying cow like sound to them.. i'm only getting 9 volts to the horns so not sure if supposed to be that but I would think they should be getting 12v
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Old 11-12-2014, 09:28 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Mooooo..cough cough moooooo cough cough.

Cool.
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
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Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
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I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

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Old 11-12-2014, 09:49 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Quote:
Originally Posted by bykfixer View Post
Mooooo..cough cough moooooo cough cough.
That is putting it lightly lol


On another note.. I am pretty sure my catalytic converter is clogging up.. Quite randomly when the car is under heavy acceleration, the car sounds like it wants to stall out and spits and sputters terribly.. normal driving and acceleration it purrs, but randomly when getting on it, it does this hesitation thing. If I'm in 5th at about 70-80 and shift into 4th and floor it, it likes to do it, but if I shift and let it sit in gear for a few seconds then gun it then it accelerates fine.. it is quite annoying and with a lot of searching and my own mechanical knowledge I'm pretty sure it is not the fuel filter or plugs or wires or cap and rotor.. and there is no CEL.. I thought it could be the ECU cause I am noticing it more since I had the car sitting for a couple days with the battery disconnected so the ECU would have to had relearned its map again, but.. since it is random and only under heavy acceleration I don't believe it is that. It does do it in all gears though.. and the car also sputters out and falls right on its face right around 7100 rpm.. If I shift before 7k it's fine..

Last edited by ThundagooseBB6; 11-12-2014 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:19 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

sorry crappy camera phone night shot.. thought it looked pretty good sitting there

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Old 11-21-2014, 03:34 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

UPDATE!
So I've been researching and studying this bogging/ hesitation issue I have been having
under acceleration and most of the signs seems to point to the cat.. So I replaced it..




$250 later I have a new catalytic converter on the car and still disappointed, slightly. The old converter was actually in pretty decent shape and I could still see light through it.. the elements were not broken from what I could see, but after getting the new one put on, the car seems to accelerate much quicker off the line and doesn't seem to bog out or fall on its face while accelerating. But it does still spit and sputter quite a bit.

The thing that gets me right meow, is that while the shop was putting on the new cat, the oxygen sensor stripped its threads and can't go into the new one.. So I have to buy a new oxygen sensor.. thing is, the hole has a plug in it and the old sensor is zip tied up under the car and not even in the cat, yet I have no CEL.. ? How is this possible?

Anyways cost is starting to add up real quick this week.. Just bought new NGK Iridium plugs, a new O2 sensor and some seafoam.. Sunday I will seafoam the car while I'm at work and then come home and change the plugs and install O2 Sensor.. Hopefully this fixes the problem..

I will make sure to take a vid of the seafoam treatment and post it here :)

Till then..
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Old 11-24-2014, 03:34 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

So, new plugs and seafoam did not do anything to help the stuttering/hesitation.. Have not been able to install new o2 sensor yet.. but it did give me a chance to take a small photo shoot at my work parking lot..

How my power steering leak fix is holding up



And then to the good pics












Thanks for looking
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Old 11-25-2014, 05:52 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Nice ride
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:33 AM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

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Nice ride
Thanks!
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:32 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

UPDATE!!!

It's been a while PZ.. Thought I would update on my battle with this engine issue.

Back to where I left off :) Warning: Long read!

So, I had just replaced the cat and my next step was to seafoam the engine. When I got off of work that morning I decided to seafoam right in the parking lot where I took my last set of pics posted in here. Things turned worse.

When I seafoam an engine, I normally use the vacuum line directly off of the PCV valve. I took mine off and started the engine. No vacuum on the line and no idle surging in the engine. Crap. So I did what any other person would do. Tried pouring the seafoam into the vacuum line. So obviously nothing happened when I poured it into the line since there was no vacuum. So I set the hose down and started contemplating. Out of know where "SsSSSSHHHUUUP" <sucking noise> The vacuum came into the line and sucked out all of the seafoam that was in there. The engine bogged and cut out. I thought, "That was wierd" and turned the car back on.. Fired right up and then the supercharger started making a terrible "WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO" squeal.. and there was now vacuum on that PCV hose.. So, I decided to keep seafoaming..

During that time, the vacuum kept cutting in and out and took me probably about 20 min just to get the engine to suck up 3/4 a can of seafoam. At that point it really was not effective as by like the 10 min mark the car already started smoking out the exhaust. After getting it to injest the seafoam. I just the car off for 10 min like you normally should to get the seafoam to do its work.. When I started the car, very minimal smoke came out the exhaust. This could have been that the engine was not that dirty, or just plain ineffective since it took so long to get it sucked up. Either way, A waste of time and money.. But did now find out there was no regular vacuum on my PCV valve. This is not quite an easy fix compared to a stock engine. The stock engine vacuum comes right from the upper intake plenum. On a supercharger system, the vacuum comes from the throttle body neck, then into the IAC valve with the PCV line on a "T" fitting between the two.


Fast forward a few days and when I'm leaving work in the morning, the car decides to crank, but not start. After about 15 minutes and a dozen 10 second crank sessions I was about to make a call to get a ride home. One of our drivers that was getting ready to go home for his days off came over to me in his vehicle and asked me if I needed a jump (Since I had the hood up). I thought why not since I had been cranking away and the battery voltage was getting low. We hooked up the batteries, and let it charge up for a few minutes. I was hoping out of sheer luck that maybe the car would start this time. Nope. But it did turn over much faster with the charged battery lol. I was thinking the worst at this point as I could not see anything wrong our out of place. I was standing there with the driver contemplating what the hell was wrong when I decided to check the ignition coil (google searched in the car about common crank no start conditions on the preludes and the coil was a good possibility) So I pulled the wire off the coil and everything looked fine. Then I pulled the wire on the dizzy side.

The metal clip in the end of the wire just disintegrated as I pulled it off of the dizzy and pieces fell down to the ground. Well.. Found the reason for a no start.. Luckily the driver was nice enough and took me down to autozone so i could buy a cheap set of wires to throw on just to get it started. Came back, put the wires on, started right up. Did not fix the hesitation issue though. After dealing with that, I wondered how long it had been since all this stuff had been replaced, so I got to replacing..

Bought new MSD Power Tower dizzy cap and rotor, MSD Blaster SS coil, Magstar Racing 8.5mm spark plug wires, new pcv valve, and new vacuum lines for the PCV/ IAC system.

Pulled off the distributor cap and wow, I don't know how this thing even worked with all that build up!


Then I pulled the rotor off.. I was even more shocked at how terrible it looked. Less than half of the contact pad was left!


So I put the new MSD cap and rotor together and installed the new Magstar 8.5mm wires.. Looking MUCH better already!



Took the PCV valve out and it was blocked. Check ball did not move.. So replaced that.


So then came the fun part of installing the MSD Blaster SS coil.. I started with removing the 1 bolt it has holding the stock coil in place. It is down by the bottom of the bracket it's connected to towards the passenger side. After removing the coil, I unplugged the wire harness that was plugged into the bottom side of it. In order to run the wiring to the new coil, you will need (3) 12-14 gauge wire of three different colors, (3) large flat male spade connectors that fit correctly in the stock harness, and (3) full loop terminal connectors for the coil side. The top two terminals in the wire harness are positive leads. The terminal on the bottom is the negative lead.


After deciding where you will put the new coil, build the wire harness to the correct length you need and plug the spade ends into the harness side. I kept the harness clip in place in case I ever wanted to go back to the stock coil again some day, instead of cutting it off and hardwiring the connections. After plugging in, remember what colors you used for positive and what color for negative, then wrap the two harness' together with electrical tape to help keep water and moisture out, and to keep from getting shocked. Get some small wire loom and put it around the rest of your wire harness that runs to the new coil.

Next comes deciding where to mount the new coil.. In my case, I chose the passenger fender wall, as there is a lot of room over there. The Blaster SS coil has 3 mounting points and comes with rubber shock dampers that mount between the coil and the mounting location. Using a small pick or small phillips screw driver, line up the coil where you want to mount it and scratch the paint on the fender wall through the mounting holes to mark where to drill out. You can do one at a time for better results. Make sure your mounting spot leaves enough clearance for the coil dizzy wire and the wire harness that connects on the bottom so it doesn't come close to touching anything metal. Also make sure there is enough clearance between the coil and the intake tube.

Using a drill bit just a bit smaller than the mounting threads on the rubber damper, drill a hole where you scratched off on the fender well. If you have a hard time getting the bit to grab, use a pointed punch and tap a small indent in the mounting spot, then try drilling again. Drill your hole then here is where it gets a bit tricky. The instructions with the Coil tell you to drill a hole larger than the mounting threads on the rubber damper. The intent is to through-bolt the rubber damper to its mounting surface, meaning putting the threaded bolt end through the hole then securing it from the other side of the mounting surface. In this case, you would have to take out your inner fender liner to get to it or possibly take off the whole fender.. That's not for me so instead, drill your hole a size smaller than the threaded bolt, and get your self a tap and die set and tap out the hole to the correct size and thread pitch of the bolt (meaning making threads in the fender wall hole you drilled out), then simply screw the rubber damper into the fender wall.


It's not a hard process, just time consuming and making sure you are using the right tap to make the threads. Get one in and mount the coil up to the
rubber damper you just put in and then rinse and repeat for the other two, scratch a mark, drill, tap, install damper, until all 3 are done.


Then take the end of your wire harness and using the screws that come with the kit, screw the terminal connectors to the correct positive and negative leads on the coil and tighten down good. Then mount it to the rubber dampers with the screws provided in the kit. Put together the Dizzy coil wire and attach securely to both posts on the dizzy and the coil, and Whala! New coil installed..


I describe a lot but it is really not that difficult to do.

TBC in next post.

TL;DR: I talked about stuff.
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:32 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Long Story, Continued

So after ALLL that work and replacing.. Started the car up, took it out for a test drive and guess what. Didn't change a thing.. and it is slowly getting worse by the day. Now at this point, the car won't go over 4k rpm with out falling on it's face and bogging/ hesitating. I'm really starting to think it is a fuel issue. Maybe a clogged fuel filter?? I only dread replacing the fuel filter because it is a pain on a stock engine, but 150k times more difficult with a supercharger sitting right over top of it. The whole supercharger and pulley system would have to come off.

During this point I am also trying to troubleshoot not having any vacuum on my PCV line.. I read up on a HT thread that I should switch the "T" fitting from one vacuum line to another that runs to the IAC valve. "Supposedly" Jackson wrote the instructions wrong and said to hook up the "T" fitting to the wrong vacuum line. So I thought ok, I'll give it a try.. So I switched the "T" fitting to the other vacuum line and started the car up.. What do you know, Vacuum!! I was like, Sweet! Now we are getting some where! But then when I took it out for a test drive, the supercharger started whining terribly like it did when I was trying to seafoam the car, mostly just at idle when coming up to a stop light and damn it was loud.. So I thought this can't be right and flipped it back to the way Jackson said it needs to be hooked up. But no vacuum again.

So after a many days of forum searching and YouTube troubleshoot videos, I'm at a loss.. I look around at the Jackson Racing website and Supercharger.com when I see a support page that says to contact Moss Motors in California for any older JRSC troubleshooting problems (Since JR dropped all support and quit making the older roots SC systems)... So On the phone I got. I got connected to a tech there by the name of Blaine who was extremely helpful. I explained to him what was happening and agreed it sounded like a fuel issue, but he is there for SC support, not Honda support. Fair enough. He gave me instructions and walked me through how to disable to the supercharger to tell if the supercharger is at fault or if it is a Honda problem. The disabling required connecting the two fuel lines together that run to the JRSC Air/Fuel Pressure regulator, and then using a wire and holding the bypass valve open so the SC could not create any boost pressure. Took it out for a drive and this is what it sounds like. The RPM trouble range moved from 4k to 6k but you can hear it start to hesitate just before 6k and I did not push it over 6k for trying not to damage anything. (spoiler alert if you read description)



During my process of disabling the supercharger, I decided to take the time to remove the throttle body and inspect/clean it. The Red arrow indicates the vacuum path to the IAC/PCV valve. I mistakenly deleted the picture of the Fast Idle valve, which I believe is at fault for the vacuum issue.

The throttle body neck, with red arrow pointing to the hole and fitting that runs to the PCV valve


The front side of the throttle body, with red arrow showing bypass inlet


Back side of throttle body with red arrow showing bypass inlet chamber that connects to the hole in the neck


And the Bottom of the throttle body with the Fast Idle Valve removed. Red arrow showing entrance from bypass chamber in TB to valve.


The throttle body was not even very dirty nor the neck on the SC. I cleaned it all up though and put it back together after disabling the SC system, and then went out for the drive shown above.

Then comes to the weekend before Christmas. I normally go visit family back home this weekend for Christmas and I decided to drive my Prelude up 200 miles back home to work on it with my dad and see if he had any ideas. I left the supercharger disabled on my trip up there. Here is where my life got fun!

So before I left Indy, I got a CEL that came on.. I stopped at Advance Auto Parts and they read the code for me and would let me reset it as well. Turned out to be a code for the Barometric Pressure sensor.. I reset the code and figured it wouldn't be harmful for the trip. I hit the road and got most of the way back home. about 3/4 of the way back, the engine felt shaky, and the tach started to flutter while I had the cruise set. Then the CEL came back on when I got close to home.. "Ah great" I was thinking but it made it over to my dads where we took some of the night to check it out and work on it a bit. I drove over to my best friends house and crashed.

The following day I left my car at my friends house and hung out with him for a while. I was suppose to meet my family (on my moms side) for dinner so I left my friends house and headed to dinner. On the way the car stalls out on me while turning onto a highway and won't start back up. WTTFFFFFF!!! Luckily there was a restaurant on the corner of where I was turning so I coasted the car into the parking lot and into a parking spot. Damn I was pissed, and it's pitch black out at 5:30pm.. Called up my mom and told her I wouldn't be making it to family dinner, the one time we get to all see each other during the year. I called up my dad, and he came out there. He wanted to pull me with a tow strap 8 miles back to his house but I really didn't feel comfortable with that so I called my roadside assistance and waited an hour for the tow truck to come out.. Put it up on a flatbed and towed it back to my dad's shop.

We got the car unloaded and started checking some things over. I thought the timing belt might have snapped, so we pulled the dizzy cap and cranked it over.. Good, the rotor was spinning. So it wasn't the timing belt.. We cracked the fuel fitting on the rail and primed the pump. Fuel sprayed everywhere. Good, it is getting fuel. The CEL had come back on once again during the trip to dinner so we check it out and was the same Barometric sensor code again. We tried looking up information about it but could only assume either the ECU went bad or the MSD coil went bad.

Just as we were getting ready to check the coil, I turned the ignition on and got out of the car to go up to the engine bay, I had to close the door to get around it. We took some readings to check the coil and I went back to get in the car.. THE DOOR LOCKED! WITH MY KEYS AND ALL MY STUFF IN IT! CRAP!!! I was completely pissed now at this point and contemplated it being the worst day of the year.. The windows were rolled up.. So #1 IMPORTANT LESSON.. WHEN WORKING ON YOUR VEHICLE, ALWAYS ROLL DOWN ONE WINDOW BEFORE BEGINNING WORK ON ANYTHING!!

So my dad and I tried for about an hour to get in the car.. Couldn't slim jim it, couldn't blow compressed air in the door lock cylinder.. just couldn't get in.. So I said forget it.. My dad gave me a ride over to my sisters house where my Mom was also and stayed the night there. I traveled back to Indy with my Mom the next day so I could go to work that night.. Luckily I had spare keys to my truck and toolbox at work still at my home in Indy.

So two weeks pass and I'm searchin and studying what's wrong with this thing and am reading a diagram in the service book about testing the ignition coil, when I flip the page and read up about testing the Ignition Control Module. It states that a normal ICM will have a smooth tach. My tach started jumping around on me when I was heading up there.. That HAS to be the problem! I order a new ICM from Advance Auto Parts and head back up 200 miles in my truck to my Dads' to try and get this thing running. I get up there and immediately unlock my car doors lol.. My dad was nice and left a trickle charger on the battery after we disconnected it before I left the last time. I jumped right on it and took off the dizzy.. I marked it's position with a sharpie just in case so it could be lined back up again when being put on.

Got the dizzy off and put it on the bench. One of the wires burned up the rubber jacket that goes over the connector. Signs are looking good that this is it.


The ICM has two screws that hold it to the dizzy casing. Pulled the ICM out and took the heat sink off the back. There are 3 screws holding the heat sink on. The ICM by itself


We cut the rubber jacket off the burned up wire to make sure the wiring was still good underneath.


The wiring was still good so we took some small heat shrink tube and cut it and shrunk it back over the wire connector. I put the heat transfer grease that comes with the new ICM on the back of the new one and installed the heat sink back on. Fit perfect. Installed back in the dizzy and tightened back down. I also bought a new dizzy o ring to replace while I had the dizzy out, which is a good idea for anyone that has to take the dizzy off. I put a little clean motor oil around the new o ring, lined up the shaft and put the dizzy back on the engine. Put everything back together.


WOOHOO! Car fired up! Quite a horrific smell came from the exhaust but started smelling normal after about 10 minutes. Only question was.. Did this fix the problem? I took it down the road for a test drive and BOOM shifting up to 7k in each gear, no bogging or hesitating! HELL YES! I drove back to my Dads' and decided to re-engage the supercharger. I hooked up the fuel lines back to the JRSC Air/Fuel regulator and closed the bypass valve, tightened up a clamp on the bypass boot and took it out for another test drive down the road..

Took off down the road and was pulling 9lbs of boost. No hesitating all the way through to 7k.. I got like half way down the road (He lives in the country off of a 1 mile back road) and started smelling a really strong odor of gasoline..Car started shaking and stuttering.... I thought "Great, fix one thing and problem moves to another" and go to turn around at the end of the road and see a huge stream of gasoline running back up the road where I just was. ****! So I drove back to my dads and got it back in the shop.. Shut the car off and a huge puddle of gas starts pouring out on the floor. I open the hood and see that one of the fuel lines had come off the Air Fuel Regulator.. Damn.. I had lost a quarter tank of gas just in that little drive.

I hooked the line back up, made sure it was on tight and took it for another drive down the road.. Aww yeah, feel that power!!! The most power I have felt from the car since I bought it a few months ago.. I felt like that guy in the "VTEC just kicked in YO" Memes. But the car seems to stutter just for a split second in lower RPMS before it takes off like a bat out of hell.. I called my Dad and told him I was going to run to the gas station and fill up since I was almost on E now at this point.. During my call the CEL comes on.. DAMNIT.. Just when I thought it was fixed!!

Got to the gas station and double checked all the fuel lines and everything under the hood while I fueled up.. everything looked good.. Got back to my Dads' and hooked up the scanner.. EGR CODE???? WTF! Then I thought about it.. My dad had been snooping around the engine bay asking me what this and that was and had pointed at the EGR unit on the driver firewall.. I asked him if he messed with anything on that and said "no, but what about that one plug we had to undo at the intake to get to the bypass hose clamp" I thought about it and checked it and sure enough, left the stinkin EGR plug undone at the intake.. Cleared the code and drove fine.. But now the belts are squealing like crazy when accelerating so that is the next step to get those changed out. Got a car dolly the next day and hauled the Lude back home to Indy with all of my duly missed keys, clothes, and everything else I had locked in my car lol.. Welcome Home

Fast forward to today, now she sits patiently waiting for winter to end, getting driven a couple days a week back and forth to work, until the belts and SC pulleys can get changed out as well.

To this update I thank you for reading and hope I may have solved someone's problem out there if they do read this! Until next time my PZ friends!

TL;DR : Did Stuff, Solved Problem.
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:46 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

seems like your are doing this neglected car some justice. someone loved it at one time, they put some money into it years ago.

welcome to the site, love the color combo and the sc!
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:11 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

^^ yeah, what he said.

Good story. Nice detailed how to.

Happy endings are cool!!!





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Old 01-19-2015, 09:31 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Updated reserved post, so scroll back up for lots more reading, pictures, A Youtube Vid and stuff! Thanks for the comments! It already feels like I have been down a long ass road with the car already in the short time I have owned it.. But I love it!
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Old 01-19-2015, 10:39 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

wow clean. much potential. less then 5k. wow.
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

That dizzy wire fix may help a lot of folks here..at least the ones who read.

One day my door 'auto locked' while the car was running. I had dashed in the house to get $ for gas...my windows were down.
Upon arrival home it did it again...again windows down.
Now I keep the keys on separate rings. Open with door key, put in pocket, start with ignition key...juuuuuust in case...and as luck would have it, the dang thing hasn't 'auto locked' since.

Ima disconnect the driver door electric lock so it has to be manually locked.
Once upon a time there were broken wires inside the door harness to car connector. One was the driver door lock. Pushing the driver side lock button locked the passenger side. I thought 'hey, Honda keeping me from locking my keys in the car.'
I kinda liked it that way...now the non working mirrors, speaker, and eventually window switch I could live without...so I rebuilt the whole connector. They had over pinched the pins to the wires in the factory and several had broken inside the pins.








^^ if you ever need to, these are the pins.



^^ the kit they came with.
Very handy for lots of connectors on the car.


^^ secret weapon to proper pinch...

My car came with 1 ignition key and 1 after market door/trunk key...so I really don't want to lock my keys in the car....
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Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
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I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

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Old 01-20-2015, 12:45 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Damn, that was a nasty looking weatherpak connector there.. I'll have to keep that in mind if I ever have problems in the future. For me though, I have 3 sets of keys, all of them a single door/ignition key. My whole situation would have been easily solved if the car wasn't 200 miles away from home when it happened lol. I have thought about carrying an extra key on me when I travel just in case.
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Old 01-20-2015, 01:12 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Excellent update! I love happy endings! I'm glad you can finally enjoy the car, all your work into it will make you love it even more.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:11 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

I'm fighting a decision guys, I can not decide whether I want to get the windows tinted or not. I like how clean it looks with them not tinted but also love tint for how it looks and the privacy. I'm also nervous about tinting now a days because it seems to just be a reason for someone to break into your car, more than it is for the looks and functionality of it. All of my previous cars have had tinted windows. What do you guys think?
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:25 PM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Well many would say 'brutha it's your car' and all that.

I guess my thoughts (since you asked) would be about laws in your state...how many other states you visit... thinking of cop hassles.

Does driving with tinted windows at night cause you to squint? Do much night driving in your Prelude?

How much hassle is it to remove if you hate it or just change your mind?

Me? Factory tint or not at all...but that's just me...
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:42 AM
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Re: :::ThundagooseBB6:::1998 Base SC

Quote:
Originally Posted by bykfixer View Post
Well many would say 'brutha it's your car' and all that.

I guess my thoughts (since you asked) would be about laws in your state...how many other states you visit... thinking of cop hassles.

Does driving with tinted windows at night cause you to squint? Do much night driving in your Prelude?

How much hassle is it to remove if you hate it or just change your mind?

Me? Factory tint or not at all...but that's just me...
Legally, Indiana is 30% on front side and rear windows. I've had 20% on all of my vehicles and never had a problem from law enforcement.. Indy is pretty laxed on tint laws unless you are doing something really stupid for them to take specific notice and start finding things to ticket you for.. I am wanting to go 5% on rear quarter and back windows and either 5% or 20% on front sides. I work midnights so yeah i'm always driving at night.. that has never been a problem..Im just hesitant now a days because my Accord was broken into several times over the years and just seems like more and more that having tint just attracts thieves..
I just erased a whole paragragh i wrote here cause I realize im just ranting my thoughts.. I'll probably tint and hope for the best
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