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:::static420::: 1992 SR

 
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Old 09-08-2013, 03:27 PM
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:::static420::: 1992 SR

Hey guys, I've been here a while, most of you have seen me, my lude (Dick Cheney), and some of the stuff I have done to it. About tine I created a members ride thread, I have vast worlds of work planned for the car and I wasnt going to start this thread till later, buuut it's taking me so long to do the work I should do it all through a followable organized platform like a thread. I still haven't finished the teardown of my broken down h23a1, but I'm going to do the engine last and that thread can wait till I move on to diagnosing that failure.
My prelude is a 5 spd 92' SR with an h32a1 and about 330,000 km's on it. I bought it off of a co-worker at the time for 350 dollaz, perfectly functioning. Just needed to pass emissions, lol. 700 bucks later and a new cat converter and I was home free. Not hardly... I have spent a lot on my baby in the past 3+ years, but like I've stated before, he is my friend and he shot me in my heart, so I call him “dick cheney”

Nothing too mentionable yet done to my car, I replaced the water pump and t-belt about 2 years ago, the clutch, flywheel and IACV a year later. My exhaust then sprung a leak, and it wasn't too bad, till one day I had to merge and I sped up to get in to the left lane and all of a sudden the sound went from slightly raspy and annoying to full out obnoxious and I had to change my flex pipe right away, it was unbearable. Pretty darn expensive little fix... Ultimately I want a test pipe but have to wait till the emissions testing in my area is done next year been praying & waiting YEARS for that to happen.

I installed some simple Alpine Type S 6.5's all around, JL audio jx360 4 channel to power them and a 10” self powered Bazooka tube sub (100W but not too bad). Since the breakdown I took the opportunity to delete CC ( I never use it and it adds weight), delete power steering (I want road feedback), and before the rebuild is done I want to delete ABS (I practice threshold braking and keep good tires mounted, no need to worry, minimal rain and snow driving will be seen in this). I already have half of the things I need to finish off the front suspension. I just finished my PS rack rebuild and I have m motivation back ! I have all the bushings I need for the front suspension, now I just need to get 4 piston brakes, new bearings, lower sway and front lower cross member and I will be able to move onto the rear suspension and finally get coil overs when all is done. I have been consuming myself over the past 3 years on everything prelude and feel I am ready to move forward with this and build a beast that will last. I have NO rust on the body and plan to check it throughly once a year forever, spray mass amounts of rubber undercoat everywhere and document everything. I want to remove ALOT of weight from the car, so I dont mind spraying extra rubber underneath and adding some weight real down low. I will focus mostly on unsprung weight though.

Here are some pics of my lude, I will be keeping the outside mostly stock. Just a front lip and rear lip probably and rims and a 2” drop roughly. I will most likely be staying N/A. I want to get all the parts balanced before the engine goes back together, so I will gather all my parts and then them out to Cali to get shaved and whatnot. Unless I can find a place locally, I haven't searched yet. Though I found a place on my landscaping route that does powder coating next to a site I maintain... Time to make a friend !
This will be a build to last, I don't intend on beating the piss out of this engine daily, maybe just a few times a week to let her breath
I have vast worlds of plans for this ride and my bookmarks have grown stupidly since I last shared them here...





































Updates will be regular, more to come very soon.. Been hard at work

This will be a pic heavy thread, so you either gonna hate or love it, but I'll be damned if I'm not gon' be detailed !!
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:53 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Here is my ps rack refurbish I converted it to manual and filled it with grease. I changed all the seals in it (so moisture wouldn't get in, most important). I'm thinking that I can drill a hole or 3 in the housing somewhere and add some zerk fittings for easy access with a grease gun a couple times a year, I don't want to put too much pressure in there tho so I'm still on the fence about that, I don't want to end up with a version of hydrolock in the rack. Just be real slick and keep moisture out, part of the reason I got so many new seals. I could have re-used the old seals and been fine because there wont be high pressure in there anymore , but I said “ah, hell with it, might as well protect from moisture”. Those few seals are pricey, Seal kit A is 100 bucks and Seal kit B is 20 bucks. Now I could have gone without, but that would not be me...

I can provide alot of info on this procedure for anyone that wants it. Just ask if you want any tips on how to remove on re-install something. I followed the write-up on Honda-Tech, but I still did somethings beyond that. I will show and explain further below.

I first removed the steering rack from the car.


Then I removed the lines with line wrenches (important)


Removed and cleaned up the valve body


yuck !






Remove boots and bands


Remove tie rods and rack ends



I didn't take a good pic of this part cause my hands were filthy
This explains it well


Remove the pinion from the rack, follow instructions. I also had to give it a bit of a gentle twist and a jiggle to work it out of the pinion cage. Careful not to damage the pinion teeth or the teeth of the rack itself.

Check the bearing to see it's not noisy and spins freely and the grease is not dirty. If not replace, it's about 33 bucks and you can have it pressed in at any garage. This bearing does alot of spinning over the years and can get a loose feel. I didn't change mine, it was tight and clean.


I don't have a good pic of this either, and there are a few steps, so....


I just reached in with my finger and popped this guy right out (when re-installing this end seal, just drop it in the cylinder and position it so that the blue ring faces AWAY from you when you are looking down the inside of the tube...
You do not want to see this blue ring when it is installed, it is pressed up against metal.



Remove the cylinder, be firm but careful and give it a good twist and a tug at the same time.




Cont'd...
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:26 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

I removed the cylinder seal retainer, cylinder cap and the steering rack from the gear housing.
Cylinder seal retainer and cylinder cap


Rack


There is a washer deep in here to remove and set aside


Grab your snap ring pliers and remove this circlip


Here is your pinion holder, inspect it well, and grease the bearings well upon reinstallation, shove that stuff all up in there.


Make sure this bearing is not noisy, and moves smoothly.


clean all parts with solvent, I used mineral spirits (paint thinner), which is a good degreaser and with a toothbrush it works wonders, just make sure to wipe off all remnants if it before applying wheel bearing grease to everything.

Then I reassembled with clean parts.

more to come...
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:25 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Before I reassembled everything I did mass ordering of new bolts, seals and components that are still available from Honda, not everything is still on order, just the important stuff. So don't break 5hit !

Cleaned it all up real good, and even painted some stuff to prevent future issues and rust. Hopefully Honda techs notice when they are ever under my car and take the same care I do of it..

dirty...












New seals and clean parts














I took some emery cloth and brushed this mounting surface up, I did the same to the face of the valve body

Rude/media/PS%20Delete%20and%20rebuild/Photo0058_zps802e4598.jpg.html][/URL]

Ok, now for putting it back together, It's very easy, don't be daunted..

Slop some grease all over your pinion holder


It should look like this

I used Pennzoil wheel bearing grease, if I ever have an issue, I will dismantle and use synthetic wheel bearing grease, but I shouldn't be needing that I think.

Then Slip it into the gearbox


And you will have this after you put in the circlip (tapered side facing out)


cont'd
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:00 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

D@mmit! Now I want a white 4th.

Mr. Cheney is one cool car.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:55 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Remove the seals on your cylinder cap and the snap ring on your seal retainer. The snapring has been discontinued, so be careful and dont stretch it out too much.


Then you can


Next is the annoying part that I dwelled over for a while...

There is a special tool needed to install the piston O-ring and seal, honestly I didn't want it in there because after reading up on it, it may create resistance to the rack movement. One guy cut slots in his rack piston, another removed his entirely. Now I believe that would put extra strain on the end sealssince the rack would not have the extra support of the piston seal within the cylinder. And I didn't want it to scratch the inside of the cylinder somehow and I didn't want to cut slots in it. So, I first slid the rack by hand inside the cylinder and it is has quite a bit of friction to it. I wanted to see just how much so I can gauge how much material to remove from the seal. I sanded and rechecked again numerous times. Till I got the feel I want, and some clearance around the ring so the grease can slip in and out easily.
So that's how I went about it, I sanded the ring down with emery cloth, took 2 minutes or so. I believe I will have peace of mind that way, and the rack will be easier to move left to right.

Install new cylinder cap o-rings and coat with grease lightly



Slide the cylinder cap onto the seal retainer


Install old snap ring and new o-ring (remember not to stretch that snap ring too much, good luck getting a new one)...
Snap ring


O-ring





I didn't use the "special tool" I just rolled up a piece of paper around the rack teeth and I slid the end seal onto the paper, then pulled the paper up the rack without the seal being damaged by the rack teeth and grease it up when I removed the paper. *special tool !!! hah ! expensive thing too, solved with a piece of paper


Slide the seal retainer onto the steering rack



Push it all together and slide on the bushing stopper ring




drop in retainer washer


I used a little grease to hold it in place.


Now you can support the gear housing in a vice or put on a stable flat surface, coat the sliding surface with grease and slide the rack assembly with the seal retainer into the gear housing.
It should look like this when done
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:47 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Ok..... its really coming together now, and easier than ever anticipated... hmmm, too good to be true ? hell naw! continue mang...

Take grease and shlop it all over the inside of this cylinder, not too crazy tho, we want this thing to move freely, but have a good enough coating to combat any moisture that may arise.


now take that cylinder that's all greasy and yummy, and carefully line it up with this hole in the housing and work it up in there gently, yet firmly till it bottoms out. note: I cleaned this surface of rust much better than that, I just don't have a pic of it... sheesh, don't expect that type of work from me !! emery cloth FTW !!


Now that it's in


Here's how she looks


This next step has a tool I REALLY didn't need, again, just roll up a piece of paper and slide the rack through the end seal of the cylinder housing and it will be fine, there is no more fluid in the rack, just grease, nothing will get past those seals if you protect them with paper while the teeth are sliding through.


Here's how it looks with the spring and "bushing A" sitting on top of the cylinder.


Drop in the cylinder housing end seal, the blue side should be facing away from you, pressed up against metal. I just dropped it in, positioned it with my finger, and it was fine. Again, wrap paper around the teeth of the rack before sliding it through or even tin foil or saran wrap. You can grease the teeth later plenty.


Clean up your cylinder housing mating surface


Install your back up ring and o-ring and mount the cylinder housing on the gearbox like so. Keep in mind you're going to have to squeeze it together pretty tight because of the pressure spring. So just get your bolts catching, and cinch them down slowly, alternating between bolts to keep the cylinder housing coming down flush onto the gearbox. 16 ft. pound torque


Grease this guy up REAL good. No such thing as too much here. This is apart from the rack, and never was pressurized, just slop the grease in here (this is one spot I want to drill and add a zerk fitting or 2.


here it is



Now you got to dress it all up and keep the boogey man OUT of it !!

again, I used paper to protect the pinion seal as I slid it over those teeth, no harm done. This is an area I really want to keep moisture out of, so add grease till you feel happy with it, never too much...

This is the gear housing cap and the seal, hard to get out, you gotta really pry out the old one, don't be scared to yank on it, the new one goes in surprisingly easy, and really sits in there well. It's aluminum, like the whole housing, dont worry about it rusting.


Alright ! you have made it this far... take a break !
We will move onto the tie rods next...
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Old 09-08-2013, 10:56 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Looking good man keep it up, what's your next project??
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:27 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Now here is a peice you are going to want to have new.
I didn't stake it cause they had these 2 bent back tabs they looked like they won't move at all, someone please correct me i am wrong, I can always have it staked if need be...
Rack end lock washer vvv


I didn't do this.......... SHOULD I ???


For these parts coming up I went with Raybestos premium grade chassis components, I've never tried them before.. They look very beefy and the prices are pretty good, I ordered from Rock Auto. Only thing I don't like is that they sent me two different tie rod ends (even tho I ordered 2 of the same model number. O well... They look good and have good ball joints and boots, so I'm happy. And they came with packets of some other grease they state to apply.


Rack end (inner tie rod)






This is the grease that came packed in it


This is the extra packet they say to apply to the joint



This is after packin it with the provided grease...




here is how it's done


Just be gentle when doing that ^^^ don't bang it around, or tighten the **** out of it... It's only 47 foot pounds, and keep in mind the pinion and the rack teeth are engaged, but they have slop in them because the rack guide is not in yet (that would make it worse). So be sure to hold the rack real tight and dont let that wrench move at all, while you cinch down the rack end with the adj wrench, kind of tricky to torque down. but try to use a 12 inch wrench and pull on it 12" down the handle until you feel 50 pounds of tension... when in doubt, that is approx 50 ft. lbs. lol
_________


Now, fit the boot over the inner tie rod and strap it down with supplied hardware, I got the Raybestos, and they came with zip ties.... ftw?? o well.... I guess thats fine, lol I have 2 of the bands from honda but I never got the tool, so if I ever need to I'll get it.
(nevermind the outer tie rod in the picture, we haven't gotten there yet)


Well, here we are at the outer tie rods, that was quick...

I took the boot off of my tie rods because I wanted to install the energy suspension ones I have, bad idea.... I does not sit well or seal. I stayed with the original raybestos boots. and shoved the grease up in the joints as much as possible.


Install tie rod end onto rack end vvvv, Don't tighten it down fully just yet. Just get it positioned for install on the car, then you will need to adjust it a bit before taking it down to 33 ft. lbs. You don't want to loosen a locknut numerous times...
Most of us know that by now. There was a time I didn't

______________

Onto more greasy stuff..!
This is where you can add alot of extra grease, I just used a plastic spoon and rammed in in there. Again, I want to add zerk fittings to make is easier than this in the future. I added LOTS more than what is shown here.. nevr enuff !


Then add these little doodads, I painted my rack guide screw and locknut to prevent rust in the future. More to come on that tho...


Next part is tricky, some say you should mark it and return it to where it was.. I dont think it matters. You will have to find a new sweet spot for your steering through trial and error, but it's ok. When the rack is on the car, this screw faces down wards, so it is accessible. This governs the pressure the rack guide exerts on the rack itself and the firmness of steering. Too loose and you have slop and noise engagement between the teeth meshing. Too tight and you can damage the teeth or any of the bearings in the gearbox. Just have to find a good spot. BUT, what they state here is a good starting point to go from. vvv (and no special tool needed, just channel lock pliers...

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All thats left now is to install the valve body IMG_20130404_004432.jpg (it is now useless and serves NO purpose) but from some things I have learned im keeping it and will elaborate on it more soon. I havent installed mine yet, as there are many theories surrounding its use and relevancy. I painted the **** out of it and it now looks baWllin' I like shiny ! pics coming
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:43 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

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Originally Posted by bykfixer View Post
D@mmit! Now I want a white 4th.

Mr. Cheney is one cool car.
Thank you sir, I hope to keep it clean clean clean ! exterior stock, interior stock (for the most part)... I love the detail you pay attention to and you help keep me motivated with all your little hands-on projects, it's not always about all the crazy parts one buys, but how many crazy projects he takes on... I like it sir, like it alot. White 4th is my cup of tea, look real close at a couple of those pics and the blue flake in my paint really comes through.

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Originally Posted by ProjectPrelude95 View Post
Looking good man keep it up, what's your next project??
Thanks for checkin it out ! Ummm, just finishing off all front suspension, scrub, touch up paint, and undercoat the **** out of the underside and maybe a bunch of stuff, then rear suspension and MUCH MORE detailed pRon is coming for all yall. At times slow, at times fast, but I hope to have as clean a lude as some I have admired here. You keep me goin, and ill keep you goin
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:53 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Nice job man! I was wondering when you'd start sharing everything you do in the form of a members ride.

I just got done doing inner/outer tie rods this past week cuz the ****ers at Firestone wouldn't align the car til I did. First time ever messing with an inner tie rod so I was nervous about it but it ended up being a lot easier than I thought. Getting those new boots on with the steering rack still in the car was the hardest part-I must have fiddled with the first boot for 20min before I got it installed, little bastards. I wish I would have packed extra grease around mine too, but I just got autozone ones for $20 so the thought never crossed my mind.

Can't wait to see more!
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:35 AM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Looking good man! For the people at home, a before and after photo in the last steps of your project would be great!!!
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:47 AM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Thank you for this!!!! Awesome job man!
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:15 AM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

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Looking good man! For the people at home, a before and after photo in the last steps of your project would be great!!!
That's. Coming tonight √!
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:13 AM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

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Thank you for this!!!! Awesome job man!
Thanks ! Its just the beginning. Of a looong road...
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:33 AM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

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Nice job man! I was wondering when you'd start sharing everything you do in the form of a members ride.

I just got done doing inner/outer tie rods this past week cuz the ****ers at Firestone wouldn't align the car til I did. First time ever messing with an inner tie rod so I was nervous about it but it ended up being a lot easier than I thought. Getting those new boots on with the steering rack still in the car was the hardest part-I must have fiddled with the first boot for 20min before I got it installed, little bastards. I wish I would have packed extra grease around mine too, but I just got autozone ones for $20 so the thought never crossed my mind.

Can't wait to see more!
Thanks Lindso. Nice to have you watching my stuff, I have admired your work for ages. Yea, you gotta coax that boot on, I'm lucky mine was sitting right in front of me, and it was STILL tricky !! Yea that grease pack is weird, it came with the raybestos box... Cant hurt ! :)


fellaz, I'm so dead tired.. Just finished eating and have to go back to sleep soon, I gotta have some time to wind down.... 15 hour day, I promise some shiny updates are coming, I have pics and description of the painting process. And all the after pics one could want, not too many before pics. I will be very sharing with the things I do, I like to spread the knowledge. I jsut work like crazy, and don't have time tonite.. sorry, I will hook it up very soon.

Alrite alrite alrite....... here's a teaser for now, my brain just does not want to type in this tired mode.






YUM !
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:28 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Why is it on money under a bowl? Hahaha
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:48 AM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

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Why is it on money under a bowl? Hahaha
lol, its some stupid money from "canadian tire" it means nothing its wortheless, and I use needed a clean dust free surface to let the paint cure.. but ya, I thought it would get some attention lol.



Working on more updates right now Ill provide more pics tonite..
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Old 09-11-2013, 01:20 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

In the hopes of never having to actually worry about the underside of the car, this is just a part of what will be undercoating and rust prevention that I will document and try to be thorough with.


OK, so..
I started with the rack guide screw and the lock ring, I could have gotten new ones. but just the outside surfaces were messed up, not the insides of them. So I decided to cover with paint and see how that goes over time, I think it will hold up. I used "rust enamel" cause I liked how sideswipes rims turned out on Helga

I started out by wire wheelingIMG_20130911_093605.jpg the various components of the valve body.
To do this I used turpentine IMG_20130911_093336.jpg to clean and dissolve rust and grease after brushing rust off of the work surface (using a dremel, it would take forever with an actual brush, dont do it unless you really want). Once your surface is rust free you can mask off the areas that dont need paint, some are up to you, and some are just common sense so just plan ahead, maybe while you are brushing down the piece . apply a thin coat of primer IMG_20130911_093432.jpg once an hour, put 2-3 coats, whatever it take to get a good cover. Wait a couple hours for it to set in a dust free area, I used a glass bowl to cover it up. You can then apply paint, I used Tremclad rust enamel.IMG_20130911_093511.jpg I'm hoping for that to be good enough for years and years. I will check on it from time to time. I will have to add grease to the rack pretty often too (maybe twice or 3 times a year).


I started with the rack guide screw.


After wire wheel






First coat


2nd coat


3rd coat


First coat of paint


apply everything lightly, in multiple passes, don't pile it on, or it will run or puddle.
2nd coat


3rd coat and finished with that piece


lockring


found a home


primed


paint


done




There are some minor imperfections on the screw. It's the first piece of metal I've ever stripped and painted, so I think it's satisfactory the other pieces I did after came out better after some practice, I should have practices on some scrap first, but that's what that bolt is, no ?


That was simple. more to come in a few
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Old 09-11-2013, 01:34 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

That's extensive
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Old 09-11-2013, 01:51 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

So this, is your valve body. It does what you tell it, and whether you turn the wheel left or right, this spool valve gets kicked in either direction and allows fluid to push the rack left or right (assist not push). It is the only piece that will stay in after the rack conversion. Some have left it out and complain of a "dead spot" in the steering on the highway. When pointed straight there is said to be about and inch of play in the steering when up at speed, not dangerous, but possibly annoying. The guys build I have followed on Honda-Tech Write-up: 4g prelude manual rack conversion - Honda-Tech states at the very end that leaving this 4 way valve in may help to eliminate that play as the pinion holder will not be allowed to turn so much with the spool valve in there. The guy who created that thread did not try doing that and the guy with the solution at the end has not provided feedback on how it worked out. I do believe he is onto something though. So i will leave it in, and gut all the other pieces in the pic.


I took this out with a q-tip, I thought it may impede flow, so, IT GOTTA GO !




yucky before pics




I used some emery cloth on the faces of this steel




Shiny !








Masked off









Give it a good coat of primer




the money shot!












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Old 09-11-2013, 02:00 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

I didn't get many pics of this pieces process, but it is the same as the rest.










Now u can put it all together like this, but first re-install your spool valve, the 4 way.


This si the grease I use for this, it is red, and it sticks very well to everything with a high boiling point and repels moisture.











close it up with the end cap, and that's it, sorry, done....




JK, there is a little bit more to go...
I still have to do it myself though, pics are coming about that too.
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:10 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

very nice
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:46 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

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That's extensive
Yes indeed, I had nothing but time and no rush, this has been going on since March,,,,
Glad to finally get it up there and share, even more happy to get it all bolted up. It feels stiff and awesome, and is pretty quiet, silent actually
I decided not to use synthetic grease. that is more for high speed high rpm applications, like wheel bearings.
Now I just have to couple it to the steering rack, but I'm waiting on a couple valve body bolts, mine are rusty in the pic, some are new. I'll provide pics of the rack soon.. shinyshiny!

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very nice
Thank you !

The AN fittings are a little rusty, so I will get AN fittings with no hole in them, just plugs.
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:49 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

New bolts are pretty cheap, just a whole lot of them though...


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Old 09-11-2013, 04:39 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Makes me wanna take my dremel polishing kit to mona's underside. I have the same model, lol!!!
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:38 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

DOOO EEET, NAAAAOOOOOOOOO!!!!

It is satisfying, to have something that will be able to beat the piss out of winter :)
I looove driving in the cold !
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:55 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

well, I'm just waiting on the bolts now from honda, 2 of them to fasten the valve body to the rack, only 7 bucks, but well worth it.
I ordered a grand total of 200 dollars of bolts yesterday, and it really only covers whats under the car from the firewall to the front bumper, sheesh, it really adds up.IMG_20130914_100759_zps6db78b5e.jpg I gotta clean all my bolt holes too under the car before installing nice clean bolts into dirty holes. So I'm thinking of pipe cleaner or something bristly to loosen all the crap in the bolt holes. Then take thick gauze, with pb blaster, or some mineral spirits wrap around a drill bit and carefully spin it on loosen to get all the crap out of the various bolt holes under the car. Then pack the bolt and its hole with some copper based anti-seize. To ward off water, rust, and general purpose bad ju-ju.


Ok, here are the before and after pics. The before pics were taken with a Samsung flip phone, hence the difference between them and my 8MP pics taken with the Motorola. I got pissed and fixed the phone halfway through the pics, lol.

This pic was taken around March 2013.. Been working on this for a while, lol.
Really, if you have all the parts ready, it should take a few hours, or less, if you are motivated.


Here she is, 99.9% finished. just 2 bolts to go, and mount the air transfer tube and thats it. I just have to figure out what to clean such dirty, greasy rubber without damaging the rubber. Honestly I could just get a clear transfer tube that fits over the boot nipples and call it a day. But I want to keep the parts original down there and Honda discontinued the transfer tube. It prevents the boots from collapsing when extending fully.






















Still some more to come I'll document the crossmember attachment and the undercar cleaning process, you guys will see what I see.
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Old 09-14-2013, 06:16 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Control arm mount upgrade (not for some)...
This was done a while ago, and I vaguely covered it in my teardown thread.
It was a fun? experience and I still have the rears to do, not excited....
But the payoff must be good. Thought I'd share, there are more write-ups on this, so I won't create a "legit" one, I'll just add it to what has been going on with my car's current progress. I want to do up all the chassis, frame, suspension, what-have-u... Before I do anything to the engine, power is nothing without control. I love the way the lude has handled with all the old, crusty parts. I can imagine with all tight parts how it would be. She deserves to get a real good refurbishment. I want to try poly, so I will document all of the process. I have all the Prothane bushings for the front already, except for shocks, I don't know what comes with new coilovers, so I am waiting to see what products I will need from Prothane, bump stops, upper shock mounts, bellows etc... That can wait till front and rear bushings and anything else chassis are all done, then I will get coilovers. I guess...
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This is about a 4 - 10 on the "can I do it myself" scale. Have to be gentle though with a cold chisel, they are unforgiving to say the least.
Coupled with a 2.5lb sledge, well... neighbors are very understanding, lol...
I did it on my ground floor porch. The building shook at times, I had my shoe pressed up against the mount, up against the wall and a block of wood, and the vibrations went all around the corner of the structure, haha... Lasted only 2 days though and I got no complaints, just a bunch of windows being slammed shut

Alrite, here we go

Bought some Beck/Arnley arms, they replace alot of parts, I heard Honda dealerships mount BA parts sometimes in their garages... not sure tho
They looked good and sturdy, so I got em. Aftermarket don't care too much for us, or the design is already good and strong as is, I would just love to have something that weighed about half as much as this beast.


There's the part #, this is back when I had a 40% discount @ Lordco, the account got closed fun while it lasted, a parts guy told me to use the a certain name and it was awesome, SO MANY cleaning products I bought last year half price !! O well, over now....


Some of the tools I used to do this, you will want gloves for sure.


This is what I was going after


That ol nasty, crusty, rubber bushing, bushing.


This is how it's done, two 14mm wrenches loosen it up and remove the thru-bolt.


NOTE: upon reassembly thru-bolt is re-torqued to 22ft lbs. and make sure it is pointing up in roughly the same angle the old mount came out of the car.

And there it is


I drilled holes in it with a 3/8" bit.


Till it was all loosey goosey


Then I proceeded to heat the middle sleeve with a torch, then you place it over a socket of bigger size and tap it the inner sleeve out with pliers something, not a hammer.. Burn it after, let it get hot as a bish, and cool down.


Till it would make a coal miner proud, then you can pick out all the rubber crap. I used a hacksaw to work it all out.



Get your hacksaw (with a handle, in previous pic)



You may now start cutting a very straight, evenly depthed channel in the mount bushing sleeve. Keep checking both sides of it to make sure you dig into the ring evenly, not more on one side than the other. IMPORTANT. You don't want to mar up your sleeve with a deep, widthwise gouge. Ooh, hairy knuckle, unga bunga..


Keep checking it while you work...! or u gon' B sorry !!
But once you get down deep enough WITHOUT touching the aluminum, you will know when it is time to break out the medieval chisel.


cont'd
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Old 09-14-2013, 06:29 PM
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Re: :::static420::: 1992 SR

Do the wheels still self correct?

About the boots you can get 4wd boot kits (they self seal) and hold all types of oil in and keep water out. I'm at work right now, but will get you that info. Also great plan to avoid getting new cv axles, because the boots ripped. Bear with me,
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