Sound System Help
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Sound System Help
Ok guys i need a little help with wiring the system i want to put into my car, i think i have it figured out but i want to double check. First ill give you the list of things im putting in. Also do i need a capacitor for this?
Alpine Spr60c component speakers for the front
Alpine Spr60 Coaxial speakers for the rear
2x Alpine SWR-12d2 subs in the trunk
Alpine PDX-f4 amp for the speakers
2x Kenwood KAC-9106d mono amp for each sub
Ok so each sub amp will be pushing around 1000w rms to its sub
the speaker amp will be pushing 100w to each speaker
I have only wired stock speakers to an aftermarket head unit so please correct me where im wrong on this. (this might be a mess)
IDK what gauges to use for any of this so please tell me what is safe
1.Power wire from battery to Power Distributor
2.power from distributor to each amp
3. Ground from all 3 amps to the same location on chassis? or different?
4. Front speakers and tweeter wire into provided crossover
5. Wire crossover input to front output on amp
6. wire rear speakers to the rear output on amp
7. wire front and rear rca's from speaker amp to head unit
8. connect rca's from sub out on head to first sub amp input
9. connect subs to their amps
10. connect rca output from first sub amp into the input on the second
Is that everything? if not what am i missing and what gauge wire do i use for each part. Thanks for the help guys.
Re: Sound System Help
Damn, that's a lot of DOOF.
I have done a number of installs myself but never one with quite that much power, hopefully I can help though. I had a system with similar sized 4ch & speakers with 2x 10" subs run off a 1000W 2ch amp bridged then split to run both (i.e. at 2ohm). I experimented with running a 1 farad capacitor but found it made little difference, after the initial DOOF the cap would run empty and would pull power from the rest of the system to recharge again. It was probably too small though but for every day use I don't rate them. If you find the car struggling then a better idea would be to get a better battery (like a dry-cell) and/or a better alternator.
Sounds like you have matched amps to speakers pretty well. You won't get 1000w RMS into the subs though, the amps only put out 500W RMS in 4 ohm mode and the subs are only rated to 600W RMS anyway. The only way to get 2 ohm is to put both subs on the one amp, then they each only get 500W. It is better to under-drive the subs though, they'll sound better and last longer.
Anyway, on to your questions:
1. Depends on where you put everything, if you are putting the power distribution block in the boot I'd probably run at least 2 gauge, that's what I used on a system with half that power though. 0 gauge will get a bit less voltage drop though if you can afford it.
2. I'd go at least 4 gauge for all three amps, you could probably get away with 8 gauge for the 4ch but then you just have to buy a different size cable.
3. I'd try to spread the grounds apart if possible, I had trouble with my system humming on a single point until I separated them. Run these all in 4 gauge too. Make sure you get bare metal to metal contact too.
4. Yes, definitely. The point is to send only high range to the tweeter and low-mid range to the woofer, it'll sound terrible if you don't. The wire that comes with the tweeter should be sufficient since these don't get much power. The size of cable from the amp to the crossover and from crossover to woofer is really up to you, the bigger the less voltage drop and interference though.
7. Again, Yes
8. Right again. Does your head unit have more than one sub out? If not you could either split the RCA's at the head unit and run a set to each amp, or use the output of one amp to drive the other.
9. Right-o. Same deal as point #4 on cable sizes though.
10. See point #8.
There are only a couple of things you have missed that I can think of though. You'll probably need a bigger positive battery terminal to be able to terminate the amp cable to, and I'd strongly recommend putting an additional in-line fuse holder close to the battery. I'd look at upgrading the main ground that goes from the body to the negative terminal too, no use grounding everything to the body if the body isn't properly grounded. You will need a trigger wire for the amps, the RCA's I have used in the past have one run up the middle. Size doesn't matter here as it only has to carry enough voltage to tell the amps to turn on, stock speaker wire will do fine. The only other thing I can think of is terminals. There is no point in running huge cables then having a dry contact at each end. If you want to be able to easily change things later or be able to sell/re-use components then I'd crimp AND solder a terminal connector to the end of EVERY cable, the exception maybe being your battery terminals, fuse holder and distribution block.
Last one is a no brainer, but try to segregate power cables, speaker cables and RCA's where you can. I usually run the power down the door sill on the side where your battery is (to keep it short), run the speaker cable to the front's down the other sill, and run the RCA's down the tunnel. This should help with interference too.
Hope that helps...
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