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Amp Bypass

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Old 08-31-2007, 11:57 AM
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Amp Bypass

Due to popular demand here's a easy to follow guide on how to bypass the amp for the rear speakers in a 5th gen Prelude.

First off what the bypass does is allow the out put of your aftermarket headunit to feed the rear speakers directly.

Tools required: Utility knife, wire stripper/crimper combo things from any automotive store (NOT recommended though), crimp caps or butt connectors.
These will certainly do the job but I would use:

Small flush cut side cutters-I own a pair of Snap-on.(E710BCG I think is the part number) They are $50 and worth it. If you do alot of electrical work or even just general use they are irreplaceable. I use mine to cut everything at work 4 ga power stripping small wire for headunit installs cutting plastic and I have broken them. But they are covered by any Snap-on dealer forever. Just don't lose them.

Weller model 8200 soldering gun-again if you work on cars you should have one. My redneck buddy who used to tape wires together and use t-taps and such has fallen in love with a soldering gun after I left it at his house for a while. That particular model is about 40 bucks at a hardware store and heats up in about 10 seconds and cools in about 20 enough to not damage a vehicle.

Even though you may think well these will work. And they will...kind of. Would you use a hammer, duct tape and a crescent wrench to install a turbo kit?

Why not to use the cheap cutter/crimper combo POS from an automotive store. They dont work. For stripping a wire you have to have 6" of tool sticking out past your work. In a tight are that is very difficult. And the crimpers don't crimp. They simply smash and brute force is the only thing that keeps things together. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and head to residential electrical. Look for Klein tools and find the small blue handled strippers they do 18-10 ga and cut cleanly next to the handle rather than pinching the wire in two. They are 10 bucks. Very near there you will find some red handled crimpers about 10" long. You get very good leverage and the have a V shaped crimping head where there is a peice that actually plunges in to the crimp and compresses the wire into the inner part of the connector. These are 20 bucks. The cheapo deals are about half the price and about a tenth as good. You do the math.
The rear speaker colors are as told earlier by Mdtdnb:

Input from headunit

Blue/Yellow -- LR +
Gray/White -- LR -
Red/Yellow -- RR +
Brown/White -- RR -

Output to speaker

Pink -- LR +
Yellow/White -- LR -
White/Yellow -- RR +
Lt Green/White -- RR -

Ok with this said time to start. Since there is no need for the factory amp you might as well remove it. Unplug the harness, 2 8mm bolts and its gone. So now use a utility knife or small side cutters if you have them and carefully strip back the tape and loom from the wires untill you have a comfortable length to deal with (2-3 in.) Now cut the wires listed above about an inch or so from the plug. This way if you ever have the need to retro it back to stock you can.

Now strip back the wires exposing about 1/2" of bare copper on all 8 wires. Match up the LR+ input to the LR+ output wire and snugly twist them together. Now take the LR- input and the LR-... NAW!!! Just kidding im sure you have the idea. Solder a couple connections at a time so while you are messing around with other wires your others don't come untwisted but tape them all at one time when your done. If you dont use a soldering iron follow the same steps but put both ends of the wire in one end of a pink (18-22 ga.) butt connector. The wires are really small so this size should work fine.

When your soldering all your connections tape up each one individually and then tape them all together along with the other wires making the harness look like original and then wire tie it up or however you want to make it more invisible. I hope I've hepled and was clear enough. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I dont have any pictures beacuse I actually have not done this my car, customer's...many.
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