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The diff between Capacitors

 
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Old 04-15-2007, 08:38 PM
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The diff between Capacitors

i got 2 12" kickers with a rockford fosgate 1500 watt amp and i was wondering what is the best capacitor for me and what is the diff between capacitor that say ther1farad compare to a capacitor that says its 4 farad thanks
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Old 05-25-2007, 03:57 PM
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Ive been told that capacitors are just bandaids and can actually ruin your battery and alternator. I have an Optima Yellow Top Battery which is starting AND Deep Cycle, and I've never had a problem. The deep cycle acts like a capacitor, but is kind to your alternator, and it wont kill the battery.
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Old 05-25-2007, 08:12 PM
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what capacitor does the paperwork for the subs say to use? You can always use a higher microfarad rated capacitor for situations that call for lesser. Never a lower rating if it calls for a higher number. I used them every day in HVAC. word.
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Old 05-25-2007, 09:39 PM
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Additional capacitors give your bass alot more punch regardless of your battery or alternator. When there is a loud and low bass note the amount of energy needed for your amp to accurately reproduce it WITHOUT your amp going into clipping is enhanced by the stored energy in the capacitor. This is only a momentary need as the note first starts. I have an Optima red top and a Fosgate amp for my Alumapro sub in my 98 prelude and use a 1 farad cap as my Fosgate is rated for 200 watts rms. Your larger amp could use the larger cap and will sound better with it. Use large gauge wire to hook it up.
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Old 08-17-2007, 12:48 AM
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I would say think about this most of our cars have 80 to 100 amp alternators that is designed to run the car then we add a 100 to 1000 watt amplifiers that can pull anything from 2 to 10 amps with no volume and 20 to 70 amps with volume. Now with that said a optima is great for the system but so many factors can contribute to needing or not needing a cap ie power wire size ground location and so on and so on. After all that now my 2cents do your lights flicker when the bass plays at idle with the ac on and you have lets say at least 8ga wire for a 200 watt amp then you need a cap which is like a battery but it can store power and discharge power as fast as a eye blink and a farad refers to the amount of charge that it holds some audio mfg. say 1 farad per 100 watts some say 1 farad per 1000 watts so it can be a big difference start at 1 and if that works than you didn't need to pay for 5 farads.. hope it helps
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Old 08-17-2007, 05:20 AM
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honestly i would get a red or a yellow top optima batery and get i would say a 1.5 - 2.0 farad cap.
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Old 08-19-2007, 12:09 PM
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What is the model of the amp because 1500 watts max power and say a RF T1500-1 rated at 1500watts RMS are entirely different. In most applications a capacitor is needed to take strain off the charging system and give proper sound, and in most applications no more than 1 farad is needed. Any larger is usually unneccesary I have a 750 watt RMS amp with 1 farad and it is plenty. Also the best upgrade you can do to your car is what people refer to as "the big 3" It is 3 wiring upgrades any car with an amplified stereo system can benifit from. An upgrade between the battery and the alternator's output, a ground from the engine block to the body and the body to the battery's grond. All of the same gauge wire as you are running the amp(s) with. This is essentially giving your engine a freeer flowing intake and exhaust once you have already done some serious interal work. A vehicle's charging system is not designed for what we do to it. (large, current sucking amplifiers, aftermarket fog lights and such.) It was designed with operating the car poperly with a little head room not double the draw that some of these rediculous amps can draw. (in excess of 100 amps! Ive seen it with my own eyes. RF T10001 on four T1's playing rammstein)

I kinda rambled but I can go on for ever. If anyone as a question about mobile electronics please feel free. I am an MECP certified installer and have most of my experience in audio. Im new here and to preludes so hopefully it will be a good experience
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Old 08-19-2007, 02:26 PM
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What is the model of the amp because 1500 watts max power and say a RF T1500-1 rated at 1500watts RMS are entirely different. In most applications a capacitor is needed to take strain off the charging system and give proper sound, and in most applications no more than 1 farad is needed. Any larger is usually unneccesary I have a 750 watt RMS amp with 1 farad and it is plenty. Also the best upgrade you can do to your car is what people refer to as "the big 3" It is 3 wiring upgrades any car with an amplified stereo system can benifit from. An upgrade between the battery and the alternator's output, a ground from the engine block to the body and the body to the battery's grond. All of the same gauge wire as you are running the amp(s) with. This is essentially giving your engine a freeer flowing intake and exhaust once you have already done some serious interal work. A vehicle's charging system is not designed for what we do to it. (large, current sucking amplifiers, aftermarket fog lights and such.) It was designed with operating the car poperly with a little head room not double the draw that some of these rediculous amps can draw. (in excess of 100 amps! Ive seen it with my own eyes. RF T10001 on four T1's playing rammstein)

I kinda rambled but I can go on for ever. If anyone as a question about mobile electronics please feel free. I am an MECP certified installer and have most of my experience in audio. Im new here and to preludes so hopefully it will be a good experience
what gen prelude do you have?
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Old 08-19-2007, 07:24 PM
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I have a 5th gen. Not much engine work yet but got Boston SPZs in last night and JL 300/4 bridged to the one pair with a new style RF T5001 running 2 JL 10W3v3s in a sealed box custom fit to the tiny trunk (flush with the stut towers) and a Kenwood 891 head unit. Not to shabby for buying it 2 mondays ago.
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Old 08-19-2007, 08:14 PM
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everyone that I know that has done audio upgrades in a 5th gen has had to run all new speaker wires to bypass the stock amp so as not to blow their aftermarket speakers and subs..... how'd you get around this?
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Old 08-20-2007, 12:18 AM
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:25 AM
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Generally speaking, a 1 farad cap is plenty for a single amplifier provided your battery and alternator are working properly. If you are running multiple amps or are in fact pulling close to or above 1500 watts RMS, then I would recommend the 4 farad. As stated above, all a cap is is a backup battery that is designed to charge and discharge rapidly. and the rumor about caps causing damage to the battery and/or alternator is simply not true.

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everyone that I know that has done audio upgrades in a 5th gen has had to run all new speaker wires to bypass the stock amp so as not to blow their aftermarket speakers and subs..... how'd you get around this?
ogs, the factory amp is located in the trunk directly behind the rear passenger speaker. I can give you detailed instructions on how to bypass it. just let me know
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Old 08-20-2007, 08:50 AM
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everyone that I know that has done audio upgrades in a 5th gen has had to run all new speaker wires to bypass the stock amp so as not to blow their aftermarket speakers and subs..... how'd you get around this?
I was actually shocked when i found it. I cant think of a single older honda that I have worked on that had a factory amp. The factory amp only runs the rear speakers. I assume you have an aftermarket h/u. If so look at the wire colors at the harness for the rear speakers. I cant remember the colors off hand but I looked and they are the same at the amp. Then just hook the speaker wires to these wires that go to the deck and that's it. You can just cut them off the harness but make sure you leave enough to retro it back if you so desire. Or if you have an amp for the rears you can run wires directly to the speaker. However I just unplugged and removed my amp and run only front speakers. 300 watts from a JL slash amp on a pair of highend speakers is more than enough sound and rear speakers would confuse the sound stage. As will putting aftermarket tweeters in the factroy location. Thats a little trick for you put your tweeters near the kick panels. They sound amazing. Im still working on the location tho. Not quite as simple as flush mounting them in an 02 Tacoma.
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Old 08-21-2007, 05:18 AM
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REAR SPEAKER AMP BYPASS WIRE COLORS --5th Gen only.

inputs from head unit to factory amp (low voltage signal):

BLUE/YELLOW --> LEFT REAR +
GRAY/WHITE --> LEFT REAR -
RED/YELLOW --> RIGHT REAR +
BROWN/WHITE --> RIGHT REAR -

outputs to speakers from factory amp (amplified signal):

PINK --> LEFT REAR +
YELLOW/WHITE --> LEFT REAR -
WHITE/YELLOW --> RIGHT REAR +
LT GREEN/WHITE --> RIGHT REAR -

nevrdun is right on the money too.
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:21 PM
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you guys are insane. Thank you for that info, that's great! I think you two should collectively post up a DIY on how to do this. This is great stuff.

I will definately be doing some audio mods. I have a JL amp and single 10" to drop in the trunk. I'm gonna replace all my interior speakers and possibly run them of an amp as well.
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:48 PM
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you guys are insane. Thank you for that info, that's great! I think you two should collectively post up a DIY on how to do this. This is great stuff.

I will definately be doing some audio mods. I have a JL amp and single 10" to drop in the trunk. I'm gonna replace all my interior speakers and possibly run them of an amp as well.
I suppose in can put up some info and tips on basic stuff. You wouldt believe how hard some people work to do a poor job. most people over think it.


ogsmakdade youi will definately want to amplify the speakers. definatly spend more on the amp than speakers too if you have a budget. The highest bang for the buck I can think of would be some Boston SL 65 fronts and SX95 rears (if you choose to do so) and a Kenwood Excelon 2 or 4 channel amp if you choose to do rears. (KAC-X20 or X40) Great combo and for a pair of speakers and 2 ch amp you will be looking at about 550 bucks plus rca and 4 ga. power. It will blow your mind. I promise.
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:57 PM
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Old 08-22-2007, 12:05 AM
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Well thats always a cool deal. If he has suggestions by all means... but for what you would pay you would get a hell of a set up. Those 1" soft dome tweeters make for a nice transparent image. No harsh metals like titanium. EEEESH! Think about it, something that moves 8-20 thousand times a second would you want one of its physical properties to have a high resonance (titanium) or low (aluminum or silk) which will eliminate ringing at extreme volumes (the only kind of volumes ;) ) Sorry I'm getting off task. Tomorrow maybe Ill try and make up a sound/electrical theories explained thread.
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Old 08-22-2007, 09:23 AM
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Well thats always a cool deal. If he has suggestions by all means... but for what you would pay you would get a hell of a set up. Those 1" soft dome tweeters make for a nice transparent image. No harsh metals like titanium. EEEESH! Think about it, something that moves 8-20 thousand times a second would you want one of its physical properties to have a high resonance (titanium) or low (aluminum or silk) which will eliminate ringing at extreme volumes (the only kind of volumes ;) ) Sorry I'm getting off task. Tomorrow maybe Ill try and make up a sound/electrical theories explained thread.
Thank god someone else understands the concept of soft highs. Nothing worse than harsh tweeters.
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:45 PM
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Old 02-16-2008, 01:20 AM
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What is a good brand Cap to get, i'm only running about 600 watts and i just replaced my alternator with a 150amp (alterstart.com ...i think that was the site) so i'm only looking for a 1 farad.
i saw crutchfield pushed Tsunami and they look pretty good but their 1.2f is 100 bucks. i always thought caps were a lot cheaper than that. whatever i'm rambling.

what brands have you guys had good luck with?
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Old 02-19-2008, 10:37 AM
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Well cheap caps are exactly that. That Tsunami is a pretty descent cap. Its a Metra brand which is a huge distributor of installation parts. I know Rockford Fosgate has a nice cap and at their site they have a lot of info telling the differences in capacitors. Personally I have one with my RF T500-1 which is a current hungry amp and even in the most punishing music no dimming of lights or dropping RPM at idle and I do have upgrded power wires under the hood which is more important than the cap. (Micheal Jackson-Man in the Mirror I know you wouldnt think it but Ive blown under rated fuses with it. Incredible song.)
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