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Exhaust Install Header to tips

 
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:13 PM
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Exhaust Install Header to tips

Well it's time for me to replace the exhaust on my 95 Lude.

I wend through the "How To Section" and didn't see that anyone had done this.

I figure that it should be easy - but a How To from start to finish never hurt anybody.

I'll do my best to take pics as I go and do what I can to answer questions as they come up. This may take me a while as I was told that my cat back would have to be made by the manufacturer.

Replacing full stock exhaust with:
E-Bay Megan Header
E-Bay High Flow Cat
Thermal R & D Cat back

Hope that this helps someone that's never done anything like this before.
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:15 PM
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So i see ur beast is a 350z what all u got done to it
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:24 PM
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soak alllllllllllllll the nuts and bolts in PB-blaster/WD40/penetrating fluid the day before working on it. i mean dowse those suckers.
get ready for scraped knuckles, broken bolts, lotsa cursing, and even more beer consumption.

i'm telling you right now, the nuts on the cat are by far some of THE worst nuts on the entire car. if your not worried about selling the stock parts, i'd say saw-zawl the entire exhaust off in pieces, which'll save you hours of time, and lotsa headaches and cursing
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twokexlv6coupe View Post
soak alllllllllllllll the nuts and bolts in PB-blaster/WD40/penetrating fluid the day before working on it. i mean dowse those suckers.
get ready for scraped knuckles, broken bolts, lotsa cursing, and even more beer consumption.

i'm telling you right now, the nuts on the cat are by far some of THE worst nuts on the entire car. if your not worried about selling the stock parts, i'd say saw-zawl the entire exhaust off in pieces, which'll save you hours of time, and lotsa headaches and cursing
To tell the truth - I've been thinking of just dropping it from the header and then just removing the exhaust in 1 piece from the mounts - since I'm gonna replace it all anyway. Then if I need to put the stock cat back on for a bit - deal with it if I have to.

Thanks for the advice as far as the penetrating fluid and beer consumption goes though - Looks like I'm gonna be doing this on my own - since I don't have any "Lude lovers" that I know that are willing to give me a hand.
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:36 PM
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Ok - so far you will need a 12mm combination bench wrench to remove the 3 bolts that hold the heat shield on the manifold. (I strongly suggest a ratcheting one - as it makes it quite a bit easier)

Now for the 9 manifold nuts they also require 12mm - I used a socket and a 3" extension.
(Managed to get 7 of the nuts off and 2 studs as well.) :(
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Old 05-09-2008, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twokexlv6coupe View Post
soak alllllllllllllll the nuts and bolts in PB-blaster/WD40/penetrating fluid the day before working on it. i mean dowse those suckers.
get ready for scraped knuckles, broken bolts, lotsa cursing, and even more beer consumption.

i'm telling you right now, the nuts on the cat are by far some of THE worst nuts on the entire car. if your not worried about selling the stock parts, i'd say saw-zawl the entire exhaust off in pieces, which'll save you hours of time, and lotsa headaches and cursing
ha yea tell me about it..the bolts on my cat are just blobs of rust
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Old 05-10-2008, 12:16 AM
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sometimes heating with a torch helps....sometimes
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Old 05-10-2008, 11:47 AM
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Ok - back at it early this morning!

First job was to lift the car and get it up on jack stands so I can work underneath. (IF you need to know where your jacking points are - I'd suggest that you take a look in your gens SERVICE MANUAL)

Now my '95 Si Lude had a plastic shield that I had to remove before I could actually get going. No biggie less than a dozen 10mm bolts later and things are finally to the point where progress can be made.

Using a 20"extension with a 14mm socket remove the 3 nuts that connect the manifold to the "B" or "Flex" pipe. About a foot or so back from the bend in the "B" pipe there is a bracket with 2 nuts 12mm remove and put in a safe place. (I put mine by the drivers side tire so I know exactly where they are when I need to put them back on) about 6" back from said bracket you will see your O2 Sensor. 22mm bench wrench (might need a small amount of "'persuasion" to get it lose, but be careful not to "overdo it")

Now at this point you can slide back out from under the car & with a little luck & maybe a bit of brawn to get the manifold out of it's position and out of the car.

At this point I have gone as far as I can at the moment. Looks to me like the previous person to work on the exhaust of the Lude had no patience. The front three bolts from the "B" pipe to the Cat have been completely rounded - so they will not be removed at this point. The three nuts on the "back" of the Cat have been soaked in WD-40 and will be sitting for the rest of today.
As I have to go and cook dinner for my Mom for Mother's Day. I will continue my adventures sometime tomorrow. Cheers!!
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Old 05-10-2008, 06:35 PM
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Yea when I did this, I had to torch those suckers at school just to get those bolts off. It gave me so much frustration. I can't drink so I downed some coke :)
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Old 05-11-2008, 01:32 PM
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Exhaust Install

great read
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Old 05-11-2008, 04:43 PM
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Yea when I did this, I had to torch those suckers at school just to get those bolts off. It gave me so much frustration. I can't drink so I downed some coke :)
no wonder you've had 5 tickets already
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Old 05-11-2008, 07:27 PM
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Ok first half is done!

Decided to replace the O2 Sensor while I was at it. I will work on a full write up for the Header to Cat here in a few. (Even got the wife to take pics so maybe I'll even add those as well. Will do the cat back write up once my Thermal R&D gets here. Had to stop after the Cat due to the fact that I have to get e-check done this week so I can get plates.
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Old 05-11-2008, 07:29 PM
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good job can't wait for the final producted and i've been wanting a sound clip of the thermal R&D for a while too..
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:14 PM
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Ok - here goes. . . .

After finally getting the front half of the exhaust off I discovered. . . .
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:16 PM
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Now when I removed the stock manifold I pulled two of the studs out so. . . I added some High Temp Lock-Tite.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:18 PM
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Pile of parts "left over" when finished.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:20 PM
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hahahaha, my stock downpipe was deteriorated in the exact same spot on the flexpipe. those things are not too sturdy.
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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:30 PM
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that is A LOT of lock tite
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:37 PM
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Call me weird if you want to, but I find it easier to assemble as much as I can when I'm NOT under the car so.

Pics 1&2 - Attaching Cat to "B" pipe (14mm x3)

Pic 3 - Replacing O2 Sensor (22mm)

Pic 4 - Finished product before moving to under vehicle

When attaching Cat to "B" pipe the kit should come with 3 Bolts, 3 Washers & 3 Nuts as well as Metal Gaskets that go between each of the exhaust sections.

First place washer then Nut through openings - align Metal gasket & slide down bolts, then slide the Cat up to the gasket then finger tighten nuts. (Make sure you have the gasket properly aligned before you tighten bolts with wrenches)

"B" pipe comes with a "plug". Plug is a 19mm head. Remove and then finger tighten O2 sensor. (be careful you don't cross thread cuz at $125. it's a costly mistake if you do) Tighten down with 22mm wrench.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:40 PM
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Now I don't have any shots of it - but the three holes in the bottom of the header are threaded. Due to the header position I strongly recommend that you thread the studs in BEFORE you place the header onto the studs.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buff View Post
Ok - here goes. . . .

After finally getting the front half of the exhaust off I discovered. . . .

yea imagine that but on a car with 285000 miles on it... the WHOLE flex pipe was like that one little section on yours ...

btw.. when i put a whole new exhaust in... i had to sawzall the cat off, punched it out, went to ACE hardware to buy new bolts and some RTV sealant because i had no gaskets for the cat, and then slapped it back together... surprisingly no leaks at all haha. it SUCKED... and took 4 days
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:50 PM
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Pic 1 - aligning Manifold gasket on studs.

Pic 2 - GENTLY slide header onto studs

Pic 3 & 4 - While holding gasket in place finger tighten nuts

There are a total of 9 nuts that hold the header on to the block. Slide metal gasket into place then slide Header onto studs. Finger tighten nuts to header - make sure you keep the gasket in place so you're not covering 1/2 of the opening and killing the whole performance gain you're after. Tighten nuts with 12mm socket - alternating from pipe 1 to pipe 3 as well as from top to bottom. (This ensures that you get the "proper" setting for the header and gasket)
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93[BB4]Prelude View Post
yea imagine that but on a car with 285000 miles on it... the WHOLE flex pipe was like that one little section on yours ...

btw.. when i put a whole new exhaust in... i had to sawzall the cat off, punched it out, went to ACE hardware to buy new bolts and some RTV sealant because i had no gaskets for the cat, and then slapped it back together... surprisingly no leaks at all haha. it SUCKED... and took 4 days
Well I've done a lot of "wrenching" over the last few years and have picked up a few tricks along the way. I will say that there is a HUGE difference between working on my 04 Z which is garaged during the winter and working on the Lude.

Now - here's a couple of "tips" that I will pass along.

While trying to upper nut on the Cat can be done with everything connected - it's a LOT easier if you use a little WD-40 on the rubber hangers and slide them off. This will allow the exhaust to drop about 5 inches and make it soooooo much easier to work on. I also drenched the 3 rear cat bolts that I was going to be removing with WD-40 the night before I went after them, and then again a few hours before. (you know it's working if you see "foam))
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:58 PM
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i hope you wipe allllllllllllllllllllllllllllll your finger prints off the header before starting it up the first time, or else it'll tarnish and discolor pretty unevenly.


i mean they're gonna look like **** in 6 months regardless, but for the first month they'll look pretty cool
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Old 05-11-2008, 09:26 PM
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Now before sliding the new "B" pipe - Cat combination into place - check the hanger that's in front of the O2 Sensor. You may find that like mine - things don't match up quite as nice as things came off. This can be fixed by removing the upper hanger bolts (2 x 14mm) I took that bracket completely off before connecting the "B" pipe to the header.

Now this can be fun if you're by yourself like I was and trying to get everything to line up - but take your time and it will go into place and you'll be able to walk away without and cuts, scrapes or bruises.

Align Gasket onto header "studs" then slide "B" pipe into place - start nut by hand and make sure you have the gasket in alignment before you fully tighten down. You're gonna need a deep well 14MM socket on at least a 6" extension to tighten the bolts correctly.

(I suggest 2 things here: 1. Don't completely tighten the bolts at this time - come back once you've got everything back in place so you have a bit of "give" if you need it when connecting the cat to the exhaust or getting the bracket in place. 2. If you don't have a 9" extension - use a 6" and 3" extension combo - this will keep you from tearing your hands to shreds)

Once you have the "B" pipe nuts started slide back to where the Cat is gonna connect to your exhaust (if you have to use your stock one while your new cat back is being made ) Slide bolt through washer then through cat, then gasket and finally through exhaust. Once you have things "in line" finger tighten nuts. Like I've said before - make sure you have the gasket in line before you tighten completely. 14mm x 3 use a deep well socket and wrench in combination until you get the nuts tight enough that they "bite" and the bolt no longer turns.

Slide up to the front exhaust hanger and finger tighten 12mm nuts.

Reconnect O2 Sensor

Slide rubber exhaust hanger back into place so that the exhaust is now supported correctly.

Now fully tighten "B" pipe to header & double check to make sure you have all of your new fasteners nice and tight.

Slide all tools out for under car & out of the engine bay

Clean hands up a bit then start up.

Using your EARS as well as your hands check for leaks. Tighten up any connection that you may have missed or not tightened well enough.

Once you are sure you don't have any leaks - double check to make sure you didn't leave anything under the car - remove from jack stands.

Clean up your tools as well as yourself then - enjoy your new exhaust.
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Old 05-11-2008, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by twokexlv6coupe View Post
i hope you wipe allllllllllllllllllllllllllllll your finger prints off the header before starting it up the first time, or else it'll tarnish and discolor pretty unevenly.


i mean they're gonna look like **** in 6 months regardless, but for the first month they'll look pretty cool
Nice tip - I believe that I wiped then down with a rag after I tightened them down - but it's a good thing to add :beerchug:
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Old 05-21-2008, 11:02 PM
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Would you please take all of that and put it in the first post for better organization?
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Old 05-22-2008, 01:55 PM
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Would you please take all of that and put it in the first post for better organization?
Actually have plans to do that - but am waiting (rather impaticiently I might add) for my Cat Back to show up - so I can do it all at once.
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Old 05-22-2008, 05:18 PM
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Alright, that's fine.
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Old 10-01-2008, 05:18 AM
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Re: Exhaust Install Header to tips

Umm so I'm guessing you havent gotten the catback
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