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timing belt tensioner
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if the t-belt snapped while you were moving, chances are you most likely bent a coupla valves. but if you were only idling when it happened, you might be ok.
the manual tensioners are MUCH more reliable than the H22 auto tensioners, hence why everyone does the swap. also, if you plan on doing an extensive amount of head/cam work with stiffer valve springs and such, that puts much more stress on the timing belt components, mainly the auto tensioner, weakening it even further. here's the write-up: http://www.collectiveracing.net/crfo....php?topic=9.0
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1995 Honda Prelude SE Turbo; 250whp, 275wtq @ 10psi Soldddd!!! 2000 Acura TL; DD 2005 Stage2.5+ Subaru WRB STi : RzKar! Ivey Tuned - Advan - Cobb - Rallispec - CP - Perrin - ACT - KillerB - Carillo - TurboXS - Defi - Innovate - Walbro - DeatschWerks - Feal - H&R - Alpine - Infiniti - Curt 2001 Kawasaki STX1100 D.I. - Sold! 2007 Sea-Doo RXT 215; ET 127 +3 S/C impeller, DIY 3" intake, DIY resonator delete/free flow exhaust, DIY oil catch can, Rule 500gph bilge pump ![]() |
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yep thats the first thing i did when i got me lude
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yeah.. that is the write-up i was looking at last night.. great photos to follow
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funny this post came up because I also got a very slight rattling. and i found out the belt was slack as well as my tensioner and pump being a bit worn out. so i replaced all those...car run much better with no noise whatsoever...but im starting to think that the belts are on too tight. is that possible? i get alot of vibration noise from inside when i accelerate slowly especially around 3k to 45k range.
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