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Old 01-05-2008, 09:31 PM
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My Gameplan

So, I've finally come to a game plan a far as what I want to do to my car. I want it to be more luxurious with at least 250hp(to the crank).

I already have most of the bolt on's, i/h/e/p, ground wires, radiator, rear sway bar, front strut bar and I just ordered the lower front and rear tie bars as well as the rear strut bar (tanabe btw). I also just got plugs, wires, rotor and external coil.

My Lude is a 98' SH and it only has 80k miles on it so I'm going to wait until at least 100k miles before I do any real engine work. Which would be a rebuild but I haven't decided whether or not to go N/A or F/I. (opinions on that are welcomed)

So my plans for this next year are as follows, not necessarily in this order but close. Digital Climate control from the Type-S, DVD Navigation system with new speakers (no sub btw), Tein Control Master Type Flex kit. I want to get new wheels for good weather but since I don't know what I plan on doing with my engine, I don't know what type of wheel setup to go with, i.e. wider 16's or wide 17's. A short shifter (as soon as one comes out any ways), Electric water pump, Clutch and Fly wheel, CF hood, trunk and hopefully roof (depending on the price) I also want to Dynamat, but you can read about that in my other thread. Lastly, after reading the thread about the heated seats I'm thinking about getting that done as well.

So, is there any thing that I'm missing/that you would add, edit or subtract?

What kind of power add on's can I do if any with my motor situation? TB and IM should be out since I don't no if I'm going N/A or F/I or how extreme I'll go with either of them. I don't want to do any thing that I'm going to have to undo later.

p.s. my car is a DD that I plan on keeping for a long time.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-05-2008, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mckillio View Post
So, I've finally come to a game plan a far as what I want to do to my car. I want it to be more luxurious with at least 250hp(to the crank).

I already have most of the bolt on's, i/h/e/p, ground wires, radiator, rear sway bar, front strut bar and I just ordered the lower front and rear tie bars as well as the rear strut bar (tanabe btw). I also just got plugs, wires, rotor and external coil.

My Lude is a 98' SH and it only has 80k miles on it so I'm going to wait until at least 100k miles before I do any real engine work. Which would be a rebuild but I haven't decided whether or not to go N/A or F/I. (opinions on that are welcomed).
Methinks you're at that stage when you have to make the decision already. I've you've got your basic bolt on engine mods camshafts are really the only thing left; but cams will be determined by the decision of N/A or F/I. I'm a fan of N/A, but only because I think if the car needed a turbo it would've been there from the factory.



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Originally Posted by mckillio View Post
So my plans for this next year are as follows, not necessarily in this order but close. Digital Climate control from the Type-S, DVD Navigation system with new speakers (no sub btw)...
Budget a week with the dash out the car for the digi climate control. Yes, I'm serious. And that's if you already have all the extra sensors, cables and loom that usually don't come with the JDM CC unit found in the classifieds. But you've already read about that. Not worth it if you plan on retaining the DD status IMO. DVD navigation can be done, but be prepared to spend a few $$$ because a good quality unit while becoming affordable still isn't exactly cheap.

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Originally Posted by mckillio View Post
I want to get new wheels for good weather but since I don't know what I plan on doing with my engine, I don't know what type of wheel setup to go with, i.e. wider 16's or wide 17's.
Refer this thread on wheels. wheelage

You really need to think about what you want the car to look like. Also if you plan on spending lots of $$$ to make the car faster, the last thing you want is to slow it down by putting huge heavy ass wheels on it. They add weight in the worst possible way, rotating mass. Not cool.


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CF hood, trunk and hopefully roof (depending on the price)
Can you buys cf roof for 5g? Hood and trunk work, but not sure on the roof. Also, that'd be a huge pain to fit. Again, probably not worth it if you plan on being able to drive your car for the duration of the build.


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Originally Posted by mckillio View Post
I also want to Dynamat, but you can read about that in my other thread. Lastly, after reading the thread about the heated seats I'm thinking about getting that done as well.
I read your other thread on Dynomat and can't answer. My only experience with it is as sound deadening in my doors for the speakers. Putting it anywhere else should be benifitial, but will add serious weight to the car.



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So, is there any thing that I'm missing/that you would add, edit or subtract?

You seem to have just about every base covered there. Lip kit and brakes are the only things I don't think I read about. Upgrading to some slotted rotors would be a good start, since you plan on building HP. It takes a special sort of insanity to want to be able to go fast without being worried about stopping fast.
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:04 PM
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naturally aspirated is really for a certain breed of people. Someone looking for the fastest car in town likely wont be interested in an NA 4 cylinder. However, even in stock form, my car surprised quite a few people who doubted it.

boost is the easiest way to make alot of power. You can gain extreme amounts of power and the turn of a knob. to go fast naturally aspirated it requires doing it right the first time and putting alot of thought into EVERY mod you do....even the cheapest and most insignificant.

for me....less is more.
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Budget a week with the dash out the car for the digi climate control. Yes, I'm serious. And that's if you already have all the extra sensors, cables and loom that usually don't come with the JDM CC unit found in the classifieds. But you've already read about that. Not worth it if you plan on retaining the DD status IMO.
Why would that take away from it being a daily driver?

Quote:
DVD navigation can be done, but be prepared to spend a few $$$ because a good quality unit while becoming affordable still isn't exactly cheap.
I planned on spending close to a $1k.


Quote:
Can you buys cf roof for 5g? Hood and trunk work, but not sure on the roof. Also, that'd be a huge pain to fit. Again, probably not worth it if you plan on being able to drive your car for the duration of the build.
You can't buy them but you could have one made. Why wouldn't it be worth it? I certainly wouldn't spend over $1k for it.

Quote:
You seem to have just about every base covered there. Lip kit and brakes are the only things I don't think I read about. Upgrading to some slotted rotors would be a good start, since you plan on building HP. It takes a special sort of insanity to want to be able to go fast without being worried about stopping fast.
I did forget to mention brakes, I haven't really looked into them. I want ones that will work with 16's. I would probably re-do the entire system though.

Does a lip kit really make that much of a difference? It creates down force and reduces drag right?
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Old 01-06-2008, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mckillio View Post
Why would that take away from it being a daily driver?
Do you wanna drive a car with no dash in it for a week? Probably be longer if you're driving it all the time.


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Originally Posted by mckillio View Post
I planned on spending close to a $1k.
Is that roof alone or for all the cf? Keep in mind that to do the roof all the interior has to come out, then all the spot welds for the steel skin have to be broken, etc. It's a huge amount of work, to save how much weight?


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Originally Posted by mckillio View Post
I did forget to mention brakes, I haven't really looked into them. I want ones that will work with 16's. I would probably re-do the entire system though.
Check out Jesse's (Pooponurhead) thread on that, it's a great starting point. Also, you can fit the late model Legend's twin piston front calipers for a bit more bite.

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Does a lip kit really make that much of a difference? It creates down force and reduces drag right?
They may create down force or reduce drag (by definition improving down force creates drag, the trick is to strike a balance) but they look good. That's the main reason for them. Just makes the car look a lot more finished.
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Old 01-06-2008, 06:15 PM
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You can buy the CF plugs for the roof. I've seen a full functional cf roof but it was also custom made. Not worth it to me. The little bit of weight sheded can be sheded elsewhere. Also, not many people look at the roof to see what bling factors it as so if its for looks, again, not worth it.
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Old 01-06-2008, 08:38 PM
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yea but its 50 lbs. Kinda hard to drop 50lbs from one item without it effecting the chassis support. gotta think tho that it also drops your center of gravity, so that advantage wont be doing anything unless you are racing around corners.
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Old 01-06-2008, 08:57 PM
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I stand corrected.
On that topic, do you know the weight difference in the 4th gen metal vs the 5th gen glass roof off the top of your head?
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Old 01-06-2008, 10:41 PM
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i know that 4th gens lose 40lbs and 5th gens lose 50
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Old 01-07-2008, 02:33 AM
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I've definitely decided to go N/A. I want to be able to put a Type-R badge on the back of my car with out disrespecting the Type-R heritage.

What's the highest CR I can get on pump gas while still being reliable, 11.5-12?

Since I'm going N/A, what size TB should I get? I'm thinking I should just get my IM Ported to whatever size TB I decide on since all after-market IM's only give you high end power. I may wait and see if the new Skunk2 IM's are any good though. (The ones that are made out of the composite material.)

Any opinions on wheel size now that I've decided to go N/A? I'll only get 16's or 17's, anything larger is out of the question.
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Old 01-07-2008, 02:54 AM
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Wheels are mostly a personal preference mate as I said. If you choose a reputable manufacturer such as Volk for example the wheels will be pretty light and strong as the OEM ones. As long as the rolling circumference isn't changed from the OEM 16s you'll be fine.
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Old 01-07-2008, 11:48 AM
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The wheels themselves are a personal preference,the diameter and width of them isn't necessarily. If I go 16's, what width do you think I should get? The same with 17's. Keep in mind that I'm going to get some z-rated high performance directional tires for late spring through early fall.
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Old 01-07-2008, 11:53 AM
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why do you want a type R badge? its not a typeR...

all IM's dont just give high end power. I tuned a buddies car who gained approx 20ftlbs at around 4000 RPM with the skunk2 manifold, however, that took me setting vtec at 4300 to accomplish. When i tuned my euroR IM when i had the stock motor i gained 14whp and 13ftlbs of torque
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Old 01-07-2008, 12:24 PM
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No it's not but it would be tough to argue that if Honda had made one that the set up I'm going for would be as good and probably better then what they would have made it.

Also, I didn't say I wanted to or would. I said I wanted to "be able to"...

But I don't usually even get to 4000rpm, so it's kinda of pointless for me, for the amount of money.
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Old 01-19-2008, 05:19 PM
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Well it looks like my right rear strut is blown and I'm sure the others aren't far behind. (Don't lower and then raise your car back up on stock shocks and struts, I wish someone would have told me that when I initially got my car lowered.)

Anyways, I'm going to order the Tein Flex Master kit with the EDFC for $1550. Is that a good price? The kit was $1200 and the EDFC is $350. They're even going to install it all for about $250

Anything I should know before I plop down the money?
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Old 01-19-2008, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mckillio View Post
No it's not but it would be tough to argue that if Honda had made one that the set up I'm going for would be as good and probably better then what they would have made it.

Also, I didn't say I wanted to or would. I said I wanted to "be able to"...

But I don't usually even get to 4000rpm, so it's kinda of pointless for me, for the amount of money.
What do you mean, you don't get to 4000rpm? I don't understand that. And no I'm not tryin to be a dick, i'm just confused. Like xdo you mean your car physically can not make it up to 4000? Or you don't like to get it up that "high"? If you don't wanna wind it out past 4000, what's the point of having 250bhp and all the weight reduction your planning on plus all the other performance mods?
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Old 01-19-2008, 07:30 PM
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I just usually shift at 3000rpm.

I've been thinking about that (what you said) for awhile now. I want to for when I need it. You know, when some one pisses you off because they're driving so slow and then you finally get an opening and floor it. On ramps to the high way. Being in the wrong lane at a stop light etc.

Also, working on your car keeps it feeling new and keeps me from wanting to buy a new one.
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:15 PM
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Point taken. Well put, i love that. I love when someone is behind me driving up my ass... i wait for them to try to pass me and then i downshift and floor it lol... that really pisses them off
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:39 AM
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Best thing you can do is get a Type S engine, hook it up, and slap a Type S sticker on if that's the concern. I'm not big on stickers but if I had an SH, I'd get the ATTS one for the back and for the grill in the front.
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Old 02-05-2008, 11:09 AM
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Best thing you can do is get a Type S engine, hook it up, and slap a Type S sticker on if that's the concern. I'm not big on stickers but if I had an SH, I'd get the ATTS one for the back and for the grill in the front.
Just to set things straight, I wasn't talking literally when I mentioned the Type-R badge. That's a little ricey for my taste, scratch that, that's a lot ricey for my taste.

I do plan on debadging once I get a CF hood and trunk with the exception of, getting the 99-01 grill that has the "Prelude" on it and keeping the "PRELUDE" on the rear bumper. Also, after I get my engine rebuilt I plan on getting a "12:1" emblem where the "Type-SH" used to be.
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Old 02-12-2008, 09:07 PM
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So, I finally got my suspension done. I still haven't gotten the tie bars or the rear strut bar on yet. (major rust issues). Also my Neuspeed front strut bar no longer fits due to the Tein shocks having two or three extra bolts, the neuspeed hits the bolts. (accepting bids) I did a very mild drop, between .25 and .5 inches.

There are two problems though.

1. The left rear clunks on any big bumps or holes, it seems that the higher I put it the less it clunks.

2. Before I had the edfc installed it rode very, very rough. On a scale of 0-16, the guy said he set it to an 8, 8 being a stock feel. When I switch the edfc to 0 it feels softer than it did at "8" and it really doesn't feel much different then 16 if at all. Any ideas?

It does handle a lot better though.
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:33 PM
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So I'm looking into getting my braking system redone i.e. rotors, lines, calipers, pads etc. With my goal of 300chp should I go with larger rotors? Or could I get by with the same size rotors and getting more powerful caliper? I do plan on getting 17" wheels but I would want to switch them out during winter and would therefore have to get a second set of 17's.

Also, what kind of set up do you recommend?
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Old 05-23-2008, 08:02 PM
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Slotted and ventilated rotors on the front, and the twin piston calipers from the NSX or Legend. That's what I'll do next time I need brake works.
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