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Neck's Post-swap electrical woes

 
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Old 12-20-2007, 03:37 AM
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Neck's Post-swap electrical woes

Ok. I hate anything electrical-related and suck at problem-solving these things.

1: If the car sits for a few days or more, it starts up like a champ. But when I drive it for like 10 minutes, run in somewhere, then start it again, it takes like 7 or 8 VERY slow cranks to finally start. Alt or batt??

2: ABS light comes on after I get above like 5mph. I jumped the connector under the radio (I even tried both connectors to see if I was using the wrong connector) but the light NEVER flashes when I turn the key, it stays solid

3: I'm only getting music outta the front drivers-side speaker. And when I play with the fader and balance (which are both set @ 0 btw), it just lessens the music coming outta that speaker, til theres no sound out of it at all.


I still gotta figure out if/why my rad fan is/isn't coming on, but I'm pretty sure I know the culprit of that one.
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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 12-20-2007, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by twokexlv6coupe View Post
Ok. I hate anything electrical-related and suck at problem-solving these things.

1: If the car sits for a few days or more, it starts up like a champ. But when I drive it for like 10 minutes, run in somewhere, then start it again, it takes like 7 or 8 VERY slow cranks to finally start. Alt or batt??
Possibly main relay or ignition switch.
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Old 12-22-2007, 11:21 PM
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Pull the speakers out, then build a little test rig with a AA battery (do you guys have them over there? Any small one like for a tv remote would do) with a wire on each end and put it to the + and - terminals on the speaker. If you hear a click, and the cone moves then the speaker is fine and the wiring is sus.
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Old 12-22-2007, 11:26 PM
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The first one could be the relay.
The second one should be an overrun fault.
And the third one is most likely the stereo
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Old 12-22-2007, 11:32 PM
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u wanna see an electical mess...???




my idea for a friend....not gonna work...alwell it was a thought
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Old 12-23-2007, 12:33 AM
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go to advanced and get your batt and alt checked, I think they do both of those, and only jump the blue connector...the cel stays solid for some reason that I couldnt find but I'm looking for it

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Old 12-23-2007, 12:42 AM
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todd: what exactly is that gonna accomplish?? it looks like you want your corner lights to ONLY come on with your headlights, no? why dont you drive w/ your headlights on all the time then?

colin: yes we have AA batteries, haha. i will try that lil test and hope its not my brand new alpine headunit thats busted
i'll also test the main relay out.

i'm pretty sure the blue connector is only for the CEL, and the other one is the ABS. not positive tho.
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Quote:
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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 12-23-2007, 12:48 AM
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haha it was for E...and no..i dont want them as blinkers...duh
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LOL my comment gets removed but the ricer can tell me to go **** myself.... awesome.
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Old 12-23-2007, 12:50 AM
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jesus christ you are one confusing little boy
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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 12-23-2007, 12:52 AM
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LOL my comment gets removed but the ricer can tell me to go **** myself.... awesome.
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Old 12-23-2007, 05:39 PM
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anyone know where you can buy the relay thing that makes your blinkers blink really fast. mine does it now but lol thats just cuz it thinks my taillight is out
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Old 12-23-2007, 05:41 PM
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why would you want your car to do that? that will reak havok on your bulbs
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Old 12-23-2007, 05:49 PM
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lol you must not have seen it before. its sweet and makes everyone around you have a seizure if you have clear corners with really bright bulbs haha
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Old 12-23-2007, 06:02 PM
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i've seen it. like 8 out of 10 ricers where i live have the fast blinking corners.

i hate them.
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and I wack it a lot.
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Old 12-23-2007, 06:03 PM
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i hate them.
LOL, the ricers or the lights?
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Old 12-23-2007, 06:04 PM
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BOTH!
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and I wack it a lot.
Ogs says CLASSIC ST!!
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Old 12-24-2007, 03:12 AM
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i like sean1121's blinkers
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:01 PM
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back on topic cuz i hate only having 1 working speaker
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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:04 PM
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back on topic cuz i hate only having 1 working speaker
The battery idea is good, otherwise just check all the wiring.
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:11 PM
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yea i would check the wires...maybe one (i doubt this) was snagged during the swap

just an idea

also would the ecu have anything to do with it....isnt that from the old engine....i donno im just throwin out ideas
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Old 12-30-2007, 09:17 PM
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one of the wires was cut on one of the rear speakers, but that didn't make it work. i still hafta check the third and last speaker to see if thats blown.


i also have this CEL that USUALLY comes on after i go above 65mph, but when i try pulling the code nothing comes up cuz when i turn the car off then back on, its not there anymore. wtfff


oh yea, i also threw a new fuel filter in there hoping the old one was clogged making it hard to start..... no dice
ima check the starter as soon as i can and if thats good, i'll look into the main relay.
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2000 Acura TL; DD
2005 Stage2.5+ Subaru WRB STi : RzKar!
Ivey Tuned - Advan - Cobb - Rallispec - CP - Perrin - ACT - KillerB - Carillo - TurboXS - Defi - Innovate - Walbro - DeatschWerks - Feal - H&R - Alpine - Infiniti - Curt

2001 Kawasaki STX1100 D.I. - Sold!
2007 Sea-Doo RXT 215; ET 127 +3 S/C impeller, DIY 3" intake, DIY resonator delete/free flow exhaust, DIY oil catch can, Rule 500gph bilge pump


Quote:
Originally Posted by Brash View Post
But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?

Last edited by twokexlv6coupe; 12-30-2007 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:55 PM
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so all 3 non-working speakers passed the AA battery test. what now? could it be the tweeters??


also, i tapped my starter with a hammer a coupla times and it started up immediatly. idk if it was just cuz the motor was still warm or a coincidence, but i'll keep trying that.
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2005 Stage2.5+ Subaru WRB STi : RzKar!
Ivey Tuned - Advan - Cobb - Rallispec - CP - Perrin - ACT - KillerB - Carillo - TurboXS - Defi - Innovate - Walbro - DeatschWerks - Feal - H&R - Alpine - Infiniti - Curt

2001 Kawasaki STX1100 D.I. - Sold!
2007 Sea-Doo RXT 215; ET 127 +3 S/C impeller, DIY 3" intake, DIY resonator delete/free flow exhaust, DIY oil catch can, Rule 500gph bilge pump


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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 01-01-2008, 04:15 PM
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time to pull out your multimeter and start testing things. You need to check the continuity at the main relay to make sure its working properly. All the relay does is power certain sensors when it receives power when the ignition is turned on. I'm not electrical savy either, but i have spent the last couple days troubleshooting my h23vtec issue and i have learned a lot about it in this time.
When you are checking continuity you are simply putting the leads on both ends of one wire and checking resistance (in ohms) to see if there is a short in the wire. if the multimeter displays an OL (open loop) then that means there is an open in the wire and you need to find it. If you get any numbers then that means that circuit is fine.
Pull out your service manual and follow the steps in checking the main relay. It controls the injectors, fuel pump and starter switch and receives a 12volt power source from the battery and a built in ground. Next thing i would do is check the ground on the alternator and make sure it has a clean surface. Take the nut and ground off and sand down the contact point to ensure that it is clean.

aren't you also running crome? If so then you may need to compensate for different Engine coolant temp cranking fuel. With a certain plugin you have the ability to make changes to this.
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Old 01-01-2008, 09:17 PM
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could it still be the main relay if it passes this troubleshooting guide?
http://techauto.awardspace.com/faq.html


oh yea, this is my stock P14, so no crome. my turbo ecu is ECtune tho.
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Last edited by twokexlv6coupe; 01-01-2008 at 09:24 PM.
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Old 01-01-2008, 09:50 PM
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do you have a multimeter? its the easiest way to determine if the main relay is working with 100% accuracy.
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Old 01-02-2008, 07:58 PM
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yea i gotta multimeter. i'll play with it when its above 25 degrees outside.



newest problem: speedometer only works half the time. sweet.
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Old 01-02-2008, 09:38 PM
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you've got to have a short or open circuit somewhere.

double check all your fuses. If you did any wiring, back track and make sure you didnt make any mistakes. Using a multimeter to test resistance will help you find if there are any open wires. Put one lead on one end and one lead on the other end of the wire. As long as any number shows up on the meter, you are ok and can move farther down the wire or onto another wire.

first thing i would check tho is the main relay. Start with the most simple solutions and use a process of elimination. Electrical issues are a pain in the ass, but if you use your tools correctly, you can find the problem a lot easier.

Visually inspect the VSS sensor and make sure the bracket hasnt broken making the sensor not stable....or maybe there is a short in the VSS harness.

and also, if you find a blown fuse, do not ever replace the fuse with a higher amp. The fuse is there as a safeguard. If too much power is provided through the wire than it is supposed to support, the fuse will blow. If you put a higher amp fuse in there to compensate, the wires will get so hot that it can burn the wires which is even worse.

what spark plugs do you use and at what gap? How old are your plug wires?
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Old 01-02-2008, 10:05 PM
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recheck the vehicle grounds Nick. Also, see how much interference you have when tuning into an AM station...

Main relay is inexpensive so like Blake suggested, a good first step...

If it wasn't 10 degrees w. the wind chill, i would come over this weekend and help you...but it's no fun when your fingers are numb
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Old 01-03-2008, 08:35 PM
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i also have this CEL that USUALLY comes on after i go above 65mph, but when i try pulling the code nothing comes up cuz when i turn the car off then back on, its not there anymore. wtfff
I had a 95 Probe GT and this same problem happened to me, for me it was my EGR solenoid that was causing my CEL. For whatever reason it didn't commit the code to memory therefore everytime i turned the car off it would reset. It was a real pain in the ass too because whenever the CEL would come on the car would go into limp mode. It's just an idea, your issue may not be the same as mine, but it's an idea, and the symptoms were identical to those that you are having.
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Old 01-03-2008, 11:08 PM
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I had a 95 Probe GT and this same problem happened to me, for me it was my EGR solenoid that was causing my CEL. For whatever reason it didn't commit the code to memory therefore everytime i turned the car off it would reset. It was a real pain in the ass too because whenever the CEL would come on the car would go into limp mode. It's just an idea, your issue may not be the same as mine, but it's an idea, and the symptoms were identical to those that you are having.
while your talking about EGRs...Just cut a metal plate and block your egr. It will give you more power and better gas milage.
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