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Valve tick after rebuild

 
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Old 10-28-2016, 02:19 AM
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Valve tick after rebuild

Hello everyone, well, I rebuilt my head and this new loud ticking noise came up to absolutely mess my days up. The head was done by a reputable machine shop, replaced all exhaust valves and one intake, 3 angle valve job, head was cleaned too. After throwing everything back together and adjusting the valve lash, I started her up and was greeted with this ticking coming from the valvetrain. I poured a quart of oil in the head before starting too. I thought the noise would go away after some time but it has been 2 days and the noise still persists. I know that's not a lot of time but if waiting around isnt gonna work I need to know fast so I can fix it. The sound is like the car is low on oil and ticking. After long drives (15min and up) on the freeway the ticking goes away and comes back after driving through stop and go in the streets. The car is a 5th Gen with H22a swap.
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:36 PM
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Re: Valve tick after rebuild

Hey man. I was just researching the exact same symptoms for my car. I just rebuilt the whole engine myself except for the head. That was done by a very good machine shop. All new Skunk2 valves, springs, cams, and then like 100 miles into it I'm getting the exact same valve tick that you describe. My exhaust is not steady; hold a paper towel up to it and it flaps out and in to the pipe in time to the engine. Valve must be sticking but my horsepower seems great. Probably just all the upgraded parts making it still stronger than it was before the build. Anyway, LAME! It's not fair! Everything should be perfect now man! I'm going to install an oil pressure gauge. I wish that stupid sensor for the oil dash light would give pressure readings to my s300. Seems like there's gotta be a way to read the sensor voltage and deduce what the pressure is...
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:00 PM
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Re: Valve tick after rebuild

Sorry guys, can't help on the valve ticking issue. 98base, the oil pressure sender that sends the signal to the warning light doesn't output a varying voltage or resistance or anything like that, it is just a switch which opens above like 5-8psi. If you want an aftermarket gauge then you'll need to install another sensor.
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:19 PM
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Re: Valve tick after rebuild

I looked around and saw that I possibly would need to redo the valve adjustment because the valves were wearing in. I also heard that adjusting the valves often takes more than a few tried to get perfect. Anybody confirm?
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Old 10-30-2016, 07:45 AM
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Re: Valve tick after rebuild

the oil pressure sender that sends the signal to the warning light doesn't output a varying voltage or resistance or anything like that, it is just a switch which opens above like 5-8psi.

Ah, I should have know that. Thanks man.

Ya the valve adjustment takes some time to get good at but you gotta learn if you have a Honda cause they ain't gonna adjust themselves. No floating hydrolics like your Momma's car. Just use a feeler gauge and set the intake at 0.006 and the exhaust at 0.007 and you'll be disco. Make it nice and snug so you gotta work the gauge a little to slide it through. It will take a few tries at first. Use an open end 10mm, a Philips, and a torch wrench at 14 lbs. If you have an offset 10mm box wrench that would probably be better than the open actually.
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:39 PM
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Re: Valve tick after rebuild

hey man, so i redid my all my belts and gaskets, along with doing a valve adjustment. I was pretty tired from the job before once i moved on to to do the valve adjustment and probably rushed it, mistakenly had the intake valve #1's valve lash too close and it was ticking like a bitch, but i was able to put a stethoscope up to the valve cover and hear in the area where it was ticking, ( redid it all just to make sure) and when i got to valve #1 i couldn't even stick the feeler gauge through. after correcting, its running super quite now.

the only explanation that i could think of is the nut kind of sticks to the screw that you adjust and i tightened it all and didn't recheck the clearance. the 2nd time i did it, i think i checked each one like 3 or 4 times and then once after when it was all tightened up. I would say redo the valve adjustment first and then if it doesn't correct the problem start worrying about what else it could be.
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