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H22A4 The FINAL Engine Thread

 
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:33 PM
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H22A4 The FINAL Engine Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by twokexlv6coupe View Post
Jesus I've seen way too many of these threads in the past month. Hopefully this'll crush all of them.

I'll try to add pics to this later.

FIRST AND FOREMOST!!!!! IS THERE A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (CEL)!??!?!?!?!?!?


If you're OBD1....
How To: Diagnosing Your Check Engine Light (OBD I)

If you're OBD2, either get a scan tool or take it to autozone/advanced auto parts/etc....




Step 1: Check the battery!
The battery needs to be providing enough juice to the starter in order to crank the engine over.
There's 2 ways to do this;
1; Turn the key to the II position. All the dash lights and radio should come on.
2; With a Digital Multimeter(DMM), check the voltage across the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals. It should be around 12 volts, and 14.7 volts when the engine is running.


Ok, we've figured out the battery is okay. Lets move on...

Step 2: Check the starter!
If the starter isn't working properly, it's not gonna start your engine, duhh. Plus that's why it's CALLED a starter. See kids, working on a car is pretty self-explanatory aint it??
To check the starter;
-Unplug the 4pin connector on the ignition coil, and try to start the engine like normal. If the starter is cranking the engine like normal, than you know it's good.
But if the starter either ISN'T cranking, or is cranking very slowly, you know something isn't right. Check the ground cable and other wires on the starter, and replace if necessary.
You can also have the starter tested at any auto parts store.


Ok, so now we know the engine is cranking/turning over fine! Lets move on..


All engines, gasoline or diesel, rely on 4 major factors to run properly;
  1. SPARK (we're NOT going to get into auto-ignition!!!!!!)
  2. FUEL
  3. COMPRESSION
  4. TIMING



First, lets start with the easiest, checking for spark.
Pull out (hehehehe, i said pull-out ) the #1 spark plug wire, and hold the tip (hehehe, this is getting dirty now ) of the wire about 1 inch (2.54cm for you metric foolss) away from any bare metal in the engine bay. Have someone else crank the engine, and you should see a spark jumping to the metal. Repeat for all 4 cylinders.

If you do NOT see a spark coming out......(I'm leaving this one open-ended, cuz I'm not too good at diagnosing spark problems)


Second, we're going to check for fuel.
We're going to check for fuel at the fuel rail, because chances are if its getting to the rail, it's most likely getting to the injectors, and into the engine.
Undo the 17mm nut that's on top of a banjo bolt that is on top of the fuel rail (pass side for USDM motors, drivers side for JDM engines), and the line off the banjo bolt is going to the fuel filter located on the firewall. Hold a rag around the end of the banjo bolt, since fuel will be coming out here. Have someone turn the key to II which primes the fuel system, and you should see fuel shooting out.
If not, your fuel pump is either shot, you HAVE no fuel, you have a fuel leak, or some other problem.
To check if your fuel pump is working, you should hear a loud/noticeable "humm" coming from under the rear seats/in the trunk when you turn the key to II.


Ok, the engine is cranking over, and we're getting spark and fuel. NEXTTTTT!!!!


Third, checking for compression.
DIY Cylinder Compression Test
(Thanks to chuckbret )

"That was easy"


Fourth, checking the timing!
There's two types, cam timing and ignition timing. We'll check both.

Cam timing: The most thorough way (albeit more of a bitchhhh) is to take off the crank pulley just to confirm the crank is @ TDC when the cams are as well.
To take the crank pulley bolt off:
Help Please!!!! Crank Pulley Nut

You'll also need to take the valve cover off so you can see the cam gear(s).

Once both of them are off, you'll need to rotate the engine COUNTER CLOCKWISE!!!!!!!!!! by hand, so that the keyway on the crank is pointing directly UP (aka the crank is at Top Dead Center (TDC)! The cam gear(s) should ALSO be pointing directly up, meaning #1 cylinder is also @ TDC!
If these aren't lined up..... you have problems. Will get to later.


Ignition timing;
If your engine is OBD1, your distributor is adjustable so you can either advance or retard the ign timing. If it's OBD2, it isn't adjustable.

You'll need a timing gun, hook it up to the #1 cyl spark plug wire, and check the timing on the flywheel.











I'm done for now, will add more to it later. Feel free to add some other/more useful info/link/write-ups.
If you have an H22A4 listen to all the above as well as....
The H22A4 Flywheel annoying has 2 count them I.....I, TWO marks for TDC and they look the same.
But one has a 15 degree marks
NO they both have the 15 degree marks.
Take it to your closest mechanic. Or go there first and see if hes going to rip you off.
Mine did it for free. Because it confused him as well
But find out how much he will charge to find the true TDC mark for you and mark it.
You could just pay for him to do it for you but its your choice everyone needs a helping hand somewhere along the way.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:01 PM
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Re: H22A4 The FINAL Engine Thread

thanx
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:28 AM
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Re: H22A4 The FINAL Engine Thread

Tryna steal my thunder, 'preciate it!

The FINAL "problem starting engine" thread!!!!!


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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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