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Compression Q's

 
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:05 AM
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Compression Q's

So I'm gonna do a compression test but I'm confused as to what the numbers should be, I've read that they vary depending on whether I do it WOT or not, and I'm wondering if there are any other elemants at play as I do this? It also seems that what is needed is for all four cylinders to be within the same range, and any dramatic variation would indicate a problem within the block right i.e piston rings etc.? if i could get it would be great!
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:45 AM
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Re: Compression Q's

Do it WOT a brand new H22 should be about 210 I think so numbers around 200 are very good but every tester is different so yes you want all the numbers to be very close, and do it on a warm engine :P
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:05 PM
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Re: Compression Q's

I just checked my Compression as part of chasing the knocking noise. Compression in all 4 cylinders is 280-300psi. That sounds extremely high. Was done on cold engine as I am afraid to do it warm with engine knocking. Was done with a new Mac Tools compression guage, and checked on another engine and seems to be reading correctly. What would cause such high compression. Car is a recent purchase, and is supposed to be stock.
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:21 PM
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Re: Compression Q's

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I just checked my Compression as part of chasing the knocking noise. Compression in all 4 cylinders is 280-300psi. That sounds extremely high. Was done on cold engine as I am afraid to do it warm with engine knocking. Was done with a new Mac Tools compression guage, and checked on another engine and seems to be reading correctly. What would cause such high compression. Car is a recent purchase, and is supposed to be stock.
Now that is interesting
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Old 02-25-2011, 01:57 AM
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Re: Compression Q's

Rod knock won't effect compression unless the rod already broke. Ideally, you do it on a warm engine, ECU fuse pulled (no fuel and no spark), WOT for about 5 seconds
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:32 AM
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Re: Compression Q's

^indeed it is ideal to pull the ECU fuse! not only dose it stop spark it stops the fuel that can prematurely degrade the O-rings in the tester, not that I know anything about that.
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:13 PM
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Re: Compression Q's

Alright so I did the compression test today, and I'm kinda worried. From the left side going right (distributor to timing belt) I got 110, 185, 110, and 195. These numbers seem to be out of whack, so anyone have any ideas as to what's goin on? Should I just sell it and call it a day? Or put in the work? I initially had planned to boost it, but now I'm not so sure...

Any ideas?
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:56 AM
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Re: Compression Q's

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Originally Posted by XmrveeX View Post
Alright so I did the compression test today, and I'm kinda worried. From the left side going right (distributor to timing belt) I got 110, 185, 110, and 195. These numbers seem to be out of whack, so anyone have any ideas as to what's goin on? Should I just sell it and call it a day? Or put in the work? I initially had planned to boost it, but now I'm not so sure...

Any ideas?
Haha if you were planning on boost its perfect, sleeve it and get new pistons and boost the crap outta it! lol
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:06 PM
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Re: Compression Q's

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Originally Posted by InvaderTrax View Post
Rod knock won't effect compression unless the rod already broke. Ideally, you do it on a warm engine, ECU fuse pulled (no fuel and no spark), WOT for about 5 seconds
Instead....pull the fuel pump relay fuse which is in the cabin fuse box. Then disconnect the power line to the ign coil and wrap it with electrical tape so it doesn't contact ground.

And you don't do anything for 5 seconds. You do it by puff. All the plugs have to be out, you need to do the test at WOT, and you need to use the same amount of puffs for every cylinder. 4-6 puffs is good. Record the first and last puff per cylinder, this helps the diagnosis process.

A puff is when the gauge jumps up, this is due to compression stroke.






I really need to do a cranking/running comp. test DIY, and leakdown. Bah.
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:29 PM
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Re: Compression Q's

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