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Old 02-15-2011, 10:00 PM
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Oil Information

I made this Thread because I see too many people asking what the "best oil" is and now they can look here and find out what oil they want to put into their car. I know this might make a lot of people sad or angry but there are the complete FACTS about the oil, and as you can see you are going to have to sacrifice something no matter what oil you purchase.

I got a lot of information from this site here but all of the information is current and I personally e-mailed/called all of the companies over the past couple weeks. To get this information, if you want to get this information yourself for a different oil you can contact that company and ask.

Note: I contacted Castrol and they wouldn't provide with this information (to me that's like a Chinese restaurant not telling you whats in their food) Pennzoil, Quaker State, and Shell would only give me their Pour Point and their Flash Point so I didn't list any of their oils.

I will be updating this with new oils as I get their information and by request if you would like to see an oil in here that isn't then just tell me and I will try to add it. I will also be updating some of the oil's as I get the rest of their information.

Viscosity Index
The Viscosity Index of your oil shows the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within the given temperature range of that oil. You want this number to be high because that indicates that there is little change in the viscosity. The higher this number is the better lubrication your bearings will have.

Pour Point
The Pour Point of your oil is 5 degrees above the temperature at which the oil has no movement at the surface for 5 seconds after being touched. This number is important for when you are using the oil during cold winters, the lower the number the better.

Flash Point
The Flash Point is the temperature that your oil will give off vapors that can be ignited when a flame is held over the oil. The lower the flash point the more likely the oil is to burn off on the cylinder walls and pistons.

Zinc
The percentage of Zinc is very important because Zinc is an anti-wear additive, so Zinc will protect your engine if there is any medal to medal contact, more Zinc does not mean that you will get more protection but it means it will protect your engine longer, %0.11 is suppose to be enough to protect your engine for normal drain intervals during normal driving. In high revving and turbo charged applications you want to have a higher Zinc percentage. (I would look for a pretty high Zinc percentage in our H22 since it is a pretty high revving vehicle)

Ash
The percentage of Sulfated Ash is how much gunk is left when the oil burns. If your oil has a high percentage of Sulfasted Ash then there will typically be more sludge and deposits in your engine. Low Ash percentages seem to promote long valve life. (I would look for an oil with low Ash percentages in the H22 since it tends to burn a lot of oil).
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:01 PM
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Re: Oil Information

These are in no particular order, just the order I got their information:



Fixed Chart :)
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:34 PM
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Re: Oil Information

Also you can go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and make your own mind up. Which is the advice I always give.
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:57 PM
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Re: Oil Information

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Also you can go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and make your own mind up. Which is the advice I always give.
Yeah that is a very good place, but here are the facts in case anyone just wants the facts for these oils layed out right in front of them on this forum.
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:27 AM
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Re: Oil Information

Too bad all of these criteria aren't "equal" We could rank each one and then average them out for a "winner". We could of course rank each criteria by importance (if that could even be agreed upon) and weight the grades.
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:12 PM
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Re: Oil Information

Haha well it matters, our car burns a lit of oil so obviously the flash point and percent of ash is very important. the viscosity index and pour point will be very important if you are driving it in the winter and zinc is going to be very important if you are turbo charged, like to hit vtec a lot, or have a built motor that you take even above our high redline.

Edit: I could try to give it a point system, 1-5 points for each category 5 for the highest and 1 for the lowest 2, 3, and 4 given according to how close it is to either, then we could find the best "all around oil". But I would of course have to wait until I get the rest of the information for Mobil 1 and Total before I could do that.
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:26 PM
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Re: Oil Information

Update: I fixed the chart and made it ALOT more readable. And Redline gave me the rest of their information. They are really looking like they may be the best oil.
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:56 PM
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Re: Oil Information

Still waiting on Mobil 1 and Total, will probably end up calling them next week if they dont give me their information by email.

I have already decided i am going to run Redline 0w30 oil because of its viscosity at start up and because 90% of wear is done at startup and it also has a good percentage of zinc to protect my high revving lude :P it seems like the best all around oil, Flash point at 424 could be a little better but its not something I am too worried about since I am not going to be tracking my car too often.
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Old 02-21-2011, 04:04 PM
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Re: Oil Information

Very well detailed chart here, now i know the correct oil to use!

Very helpfull thanks
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Old 02-22-2011, 04:21 PM
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Re: Oil Information

Just so you know...SM oils, the current oil, have no zinc phosphate in them. Older oils (pre-SJ) do. It was used with flat tappet lifters.


Maybe it was even older than that. Not 100%.





You should also ask them about these ingredients...

Friction modifiers
Antifoaming agents
Corrosion and rust inhibitors
extreme pressure resistance additives
oxidation inhibitors



idk...see what they say lol. btw, there isn't any "best oil."

There is such a thing as "operation requirment per application." Which is a fancy term I just made up for "you need to put in it whatever is best for what you are using it for."

Oh, and don't forget about the API (and also the ASTM and ILSAC) who set the industry standards for motor oil requirements. Which means that yes, there are standards people have to follow who make this stuff, so no brand of oil is going to be truly ****ty.


The biggest thing you gotta worry about is performance rating (SJ, SL, SM, etc.) and viscosity rating (0w-30, 5w-30,10w-40, etc.).

As long as you are using the correct oil, as outlined in your owners manual, it should be fine. Conventional vs. synthetic, high-mileage vs. regular are probably more appropriate arguments. Anything else is comparing apples to oranges.







Oh, and a lot of OEM's SPECIFICALLY STATE the brand you should use. Like GM may say "use Mobil 1." This is because, contrary to conspiracy theorists, GM believes that with Mobil 1's slightly higher antifoaming capability, it will perform better in this particular model/year of GM vehicle.


Of course, the above was an example. Most OEMs will state something to the aboe effect, to guide you in the right direction. Most of the time, the people who design this stuff aren't stupid. You should probably listen to them.


Or just pour Coca-cola in there, ya know...whatever.
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Old 02-22-2011, 05:36 PM
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^^ are you sure SM oils do not have zinc in them? they should have zinc in them because it is what protects your engine in case of medal to medal contact and it is like the cheapest and best ways to do so. if it doesn't have zinc then what are they using? and why did all of these companies give me zinc numbers? I think they are just suppose to have less then 1000 ppm of zinc...

I know there is no "best oil" but since I live in Idaho I need an oil that will be good for winter start ups so I decided to go with 0w30 and I may try asking about the ingredients that you stated above and see what they tell me. Do you know what things in the oil will make up their Friction modifiers, Antifoaming agents, Corrosion and rust inhibitors, extreme pressure resistance additives, and oxidation inhibitors? Because it would be easier to ask about them if I knew what properties of the oil made those things.

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I made this Thread because I see too many people asking what the "best oil" is and now they can look here and find out what oil they want to put into their car.
And I think you were refering to this statment of mine when you said there is no "best oil" and I know that I just said that they can use this thread to find out what oil they want to put in their car.

I know there is no best oil and that is why I said there are trade offs for picking any oil.
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:09 PM
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Re: Oil Information

Can you also list which GF level these are?
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:31 AM
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Re: Oil Information

SM oils may have zinc additives, but with the pretty much universal use of roller lifters, they really don't need zinc, as there is less friction. There probably is SOME zinc, but not much.

I didn't write the best oil thing directed at anyone, just my opinion.

I don't know what ingredients make up that stuff, but I can look it up later.
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:50 PM
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Re: Oil Information

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Can you also list which GF level these are?
I am not sure what the GF levels are, If you really want to find out you can ask what ever oil company you want to know that from that question themselves.

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Originally Posted by havikprelude View Post
SM oils may have zinc additives, but with the pretty much universal use of roller lifters, they really don't need zinc, as there is less friction. There probably is SOME zinc, but not much.

I didn't write the best oil thing directed at anyone, just my opinion.

I don't know what ingredients make up that stuff, but I can look it up later.
Okay sounds good, I will try to look it up also, and I will look up why some of them are good/bad for certain motors also, it may take a while because I am kinda busy with my rebuild right now and it is finally getting back on track

Oh and I don't think that there is no best oil is just an opinion, I would say it is a fact. It definitely matters, what the temperature is in your area, what kinda driving you do, what kinda motor you have, whether you take the car to the track or not, along with many other factors.
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:40 PM
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Re: Oil Information

Pennzoil Ultra FTW
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:17 PM
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Re: Oil Information

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Pennzoil Ultra FTW
Now that is exactly what I did not want on this forum lol

Go ahead and keep your pig pigheadedness and keep using that oil without doing some research into some other oil companies.
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:48 AM
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Re: Oil Information

I really am interested in the facts about different oil companies, it would be a good idea to get an oil analysis done if you really wanna know the best oil to use, although today you really cant go wrong with big name synthetics like Eneos, mobil 1, pennzoil etc.
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Old 02-24-2011, 06:06 PM
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Re: Oil Information

I think that you can go wrong with those companies... I don't think you can go wrong with Redline or AMSoil really they seem like the best "all around" oils and some of the oils that Eneos, Mobil 1, and Pennzoil call "full synthetic oils" are actually not fully synthetic oils. So I would rather stick with Redline which some formula 1 racers use in their car without even altering the oil, and they rev to 15,000 rpms and AMSoil the first company to make a synthetic oil.
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Old 02-24-2011, 06:40 PM
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Re: Oil Information

Looks like redline oil is like the best one if i did my calculations right, i could be wrong
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:59 PM
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Re: Oil Information

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Originally Posted by JDMPrelude23 View Post
Looks like redline oil is like the best one if i did my calculations right, i could be wrong
It matters what conditions you will be driving in and what you want from your oil, and these are not all of the thing's you need to consider when buying an oil, just some of them.
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:41 AM
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Re: Oil Information

I'm glad you discovered Bobistheoilguy. YES, your information is in the right direction, but using only Redline? How about Royal Purple? What about Amsoil? If you're worried about oil burn off, switch to Diesel Rig oil 20w-40. If your car can maintain enough heat to burn oil, you might want to stop bringing the needle over 6000K, and leaving it there. You don like cold starts? Put a 100W halogen bulb / wire in your oil pan, and plug it in at night. You could go 0w-20 in winter and 10w30 in the summer. The point is you're not fixed to just one oil grade. Change it according to outside conditions. If car owners just checked thier oil every 500 miles (six times between changes) that dipstick would reveal a world of information, like if your down a quart, or if the oil turned black at 1000 miles instead of 1800 for example.

This information will not predict future purchases, the cost of the oil change will. People Who want full synthetic will go for it despite their pour point, or ash point. You'd be better off talking about Oil filter quality and filter bypass kits to keep the stuff cleaner. Amsoil can definitely help there. If you were talking about WW2 fighter planes, on the other hand, sign me up.

Coke Sounds like a great idea Havik. But All I have is TAB.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:19 PM
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Re: Oil Information

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Originally Posted by Sideswipe SI View Post
I'm glad you discovered Bobistheoilguy. YES, your information is in the right direction, but using only Redline? How about Royal Purple? What about Amsoil? If you're worried about oil burn off, switch to Diesel Rig oil 20w-40. If your car can maintain enough heat to burn oil, you might want to stop bringing the needle over 6000K, and leaving it there. You don like cold starts? Put a 100W halogen bulb / wire in your oil pan, and plug it in at night. You could go 0w-20 in winter and 10w30 in the summer. The point is you're not fixed to just one oil grade. Change it according to outside conditions. If car owners just checked thier oil every 500 miles (six times between changes) that dipstick would reveal a world of information, like if your down a quart, or if the oil turned black at 1000 miles instead of 1800 for example.

This information will not predict future purchases, the cost of the oil change will. People Who want full synthetic will go for it despite their pour point, or ash point. You'd be better off talking about Oil filter quality and filter bypass kits to keep the stuff cleaner. Amsoil can definitely help there. If you were talking about WW2 fighter planes, on the other hand, sign me up.

Coke Sounds like a great idea Havik. But All I have is TAB.
I will never run diesel oil in my car, 20w40 is way too thick to lubricate anything for our cars, I am only going to use redline because that is the oil that i would like to use, if you were on bobistheoilguy very much then you should know that mixing synthetic oils is very bad and since royal purple, and AMSoil only make synthetic oils using their oil is not going to happen in my car plus I have decided I want to use redline in my car because of its stats compared to royal purple and AMSoil, I am going to use 0w30 because it lubricates better at startup whether it is -20 degrees or it is 90 degrees outside and as you should know %90 of engine wear happens at startup so that is why I will only be running 0w30 oil in my car, it will warm up faster and lubricate my motor much better and I will probably be using a Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil filter, and may look into getting a bypass kit in the future. And I do have an oil pan heater on the bottom of my oil pan to keep the oil warm over the night so startup is even less of a problem.
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:15 AM
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Re: Oil Information

That's great. I only mention the diesel because people take the oil conversation too far. I googled "best oil" and came across way too much info, arguments and no real answer. I'm following the owner manual. Unless your car is going to death valley, 5w-30 is adequate. 0w-30 for -20 weather and so forth. You have to take into consideration until the engine reaches optimal temps, the oil is doing less than optimal work.

Once any person decides what oil they want, they should do a flush to get the majority of the oil out then change to the desired viscosity. I'm not against redline persay, but 11.00+/ quart gets expensive when dealing with a 6 and a half quart oil change. Mobil does a good job and you can find it easily. And if Honda says its good, I'm gonna use it. Champion oil filters or wix are also good choices.
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SURGEON GENERAL WARNING:
THE IMITATION OF ANY OR ALL MANEUVERS EXECUTED BY A BA B20A 4WS PRELUDE IS HAZARDOUS TO YOUR CAR'S HEALTH. DRIVING A PRELUDE MAY CAUSE LOSS OF INTEREST IN OTHER CARS, WOMEN AND SPEED LIMITS. OTHER SYMPTOMS INCLUDE SLEEPLESS NIGHTS, COLD SWEATS AND OTHER SYMPTOMS RELATED TO ADDICTION. IF THE SYMPTOMS PERSIST,DRIVE!
Prelude: Because all great stories have one. Just like Honda.
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Old 03-01-2011, 02:34 AM
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Re: Oil Information

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Originally Posted by Sideswipe SI View Post
That's great. I only mention the diesel because people take the oil conversation too far. I googled "best oil" and came across way too much info, arguments and no real answer. I'm following the owner manual. Unless your car is going to death valley, 5w-30 is adequate. 0w-30 for -20 weather and so forth. You have to take into consideration until the engine reaches optimal temps, the oil is doing less than optimal work.

Once any person decides what oil they want, they should do a flush to get the majority of the oil out then change to the desired viscosity. I'm not against redline persay, but 11.00+/ quart gets expensive when dealing with a 6 and a half quart oil change. Mobil does a good job and you can find it easily. And if Honda says its good, I'm gonna use it. Champion oil filters or wix are also good choices.
There is no "best oil" all oils have good points and bad points to them. The first number 0 5 or 10 is only for the viscosity at your start up the second number 20 30 or 40 is the viscosity at normal operating temperatures, so a 0w30, 5w30 and 10w30 will all lubricate exactly the same at normal operating temperatures, but a 0w30 will lubricate better than a 5w30 and much better than a 10w30 at start up where 90 percent of wear happens and that is why I have chosen 0w30 over 5w30. and 0w30 does not only lubricate better at start up at -20 degrees than 5w30 does but it also lubricates better at 30 degrees, 50 degrees, 70 degrees, 90 degrees, and 110 degrees. You should never mix synthetic oils that is why I am doing all my research now while I am rebuilding my motor so that I use the same exact type of synthetic oil for my whole motors life.

Edit: What generation do you have? Because my 98 lude only requires 5.1 quarts per oil change with a filter, so that is only about $70 per oil change with filter, if you do that 3 times a year that is $210 a year. I spend about $70 a month on gas so $70 every 3-4 months on an oil change is not too much for me when I know I am getting the performance that I want and the protection that I need. Not that I am saying no other oil gives good protection, because they all obviously do what they are suppose to do or they would have major lawsuits against them and what not lol. If you cant afford synthetic oils then I would suggest using Valvoline so you can at least get their 225,000 mile guarantee.
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:51 PM
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Re: Oil Information

5w-30 is good for I *think* -30 degrees farenheit.


Maybe it's 0 degrees. Not sure. Anyway, unless you live in Canada or Africa, 5w-30 should be sufficient.
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:28 PM
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Re: Oil Information

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Originally Posted by havikprelude View Post
5w-30 is good for I *think* -30 degrees farenheit.


Maybe it's 0 degrees. Not sure. Anyway, unless you live in Canada or Africa, 5w-30 should be sufficient.
Yeah it is sufficient, and I live in Northern Idaho that is basically Canada :P but 0w30 is better than 5w30 whether you are in Canada, Africa, Florida, New York, California, Texas, ect. aka anywhere
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Idaho
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Seriously...wtf is up with your roads?
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Old 03-01-2011, 10:50 PM
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Re: Oil Information

Well I used to own a 1989 and 1994 prelude. My current whip is a 2004 GTO and a 1996 suburban. The ls1 needs lots of oil. I had the opportunity of getting her after the second break in, using nothing but mobil one full synthetic 5w-30. I will never see boost or 6500rpm so nice middlepack oil works for me, the dipstick is always yellow.

For the peeps in here, you might need a thicker oil than 0w-30 to withstand the vtec. Not an vtec expert, just been a general consensus In this forum.
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