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Curious if this would really work

 
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:25 PM
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Curious if this would really work

HOW TO STOP OIL BURNING IN YOUR CAR, TRUCK, BOAT OR TRACTOR! We all know preludes burn oil and some of us lose oil in other ways. Do you guys think that would really work? If not why not. I'm just curious. Also would anyone like to guinea pig that?
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:01 PM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

What he says makes sense, but the issue with the big H tends to be (or is refuted to be anyway) related to the FRM cylinder walls. I doubt that this product would have been designed for that.

But you're welcome to try it.
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:04 PM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

So quick question. When I get my cylinders sleeved will the oil burning stop? (planning on AEBS sleeves)
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:35 PM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

I wonder how much that stuff costs cuz he says to add one can every oil change... wouldnt that be the same as adding a quart of oil in between changes? Might not be worth it in my book lol
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:42 PM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

I cant believe the **** i read on the internet sometimes.
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:44 PM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

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Originally Posted by Camshafted View Post
I wonder how much that stuff costs cuz he says to add one can every oil change... wouldnt that be the same as adding a quart of oil in between changes? Might not be worth it in my book lol
this is true.... but instead of HAVING to add oil in between changes you get the comfort of not HAVING to do it and knowing that your not leaking oil (if it works of course)
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Old 07-01-2010, 01:50 AM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

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Originally Posted by Camshafted View Post
I wonder how much that stuff costs cuz he says to add one can every oil change... wouldnt that be the same as adding a quart of oil in between changes? Might not be worth it in my book lol
says at the bottom of the page how much everything costs...
here it is if you dont want to go back to the page. lol

"Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning usually retails for around $2.25 per 15 ounce can; Engine Bearin' Seal, for about $2.50 for 15 ounces. Both products are widely sold at supermarkets and of course, auto supply stores."
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Old 07-01-2010, 05:08 AM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

It says we gotta drive 20mph to 35mph for 50-100miles. I stopped reading there.
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Old 07-01-2010, 09:40 AM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

Lindso, it also explains why you gotta drive at that speed and for that long. I don't see why people assume if they haven't been doing it, it can't work. Seems Brash thinks it would work but not for the way prelude burn oil because of the Fiber Reinforced Metal (FRM) cylinder walls.
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Old 07-01-2010, 04:22 PM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

I doubt this would work well. There truly is no "fix" for leaky FRM lined cylinder walls besides resleaving the motor. These additives might work mildly well for a normal engine but I couldn't seeing this work well for any FRM lined motor.
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Old 07-01-2010, 05:05 PM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

Tons of luders here lose oil not just through the FRM cylinder walls. I know it most likely won't fix that but how many of us here talk about burning oil and various oil issues? even if it doesn't solve the FRM issue it may solve other oil loss problems. At one point my car was burning oil like a hog but then i got a few parts replaced and it's been cut by over 50% :D now i just gotta save up for AEBS sleeves
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Old 07-01-2010, 07:10 PM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

Pretty interesting stuff there. I think is worth the try if you are burning or leaking a lot of oil.
And if you are to the point of rebuilding the engine I don't see anything wrong in spending around $5 to try it, your going to tear the engine apart anyway if it doesn't.

What I don't understand is the part of driving around between 20mph to 35mph for 50-100miles. I mean, the rpms of the engine are controlled by your throttle and shifting, so a car could be running faster that 35 mph and the engine never be at a rpm higher than 3,000. I think what he meant is to be very nice to the engine for 50-100 miles, don't floor it.
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Old 07-01-2010, 09:15 PM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

something else that just sounds kinda stupid to me is that he says the addative causes the oil to "build up" around the piston rings causing a better seal...now whats happening to your oil pump, oil cooler, and oil passages? oh dont forget ur valves/cams/bearings...if it will build up on your piston rings then whats keeping it from destroying your bearings and such?
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Old 07-03-2010, 04:42 AM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadLeprechaun View Post
Tons of luders here lose oil not just through the FRM cylinder walls. I know it most likely won't fix that but how many of us here talk about burning oil and various oil issues? even if it doesn't solve the FRM issue it may solve other oil loss problems. At one point my car was burning oil like a hog but then i got a few parts replaced and it's been cut by over 50% :D now i just gotta save up for AEBS sleeves
FRM walls is just a theory as to why the H22s burn so much oil. Nobody seems to be able to come up with an actual reason though, it's all theory. Whenever I change my oil/filter I always remove the intake and clean it as there's always oil by the TB inlet. This is why I think that much of my oil usage is via blow-by, not neccessarily exces sburning.
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Old 07-05-2010, 09:36 AM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

leaking oil because of FRM ? .. thats some BS right there.
Why would it matter what sleeves you have ? .. if your piston rings are in good condition and not damaged there should be virtually no oil leakage through piston and cylinder wall.
Maybe you guys need an engine rebuild ..
And Preludes have big crankcase pressures causing blow-by through Intake routing and IM .. just remove your PCV hose from your IM and run it to a catch-can then back into the IM and you'll see.
And if you're physically leaking oil onto the ground, then fix ya damn leak.
I would not trust anything other than engine oil in my motor.
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:11 AM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

H motors don't burn oil because of bad FRM walls. In fact, after 150k in a well maintained motor, the walls still usually have decent cross hatching left. They usually just shred rings faster than iron sleeves
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Old 07-23-2010, 03:51 AM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

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Originally Posted by InvaderTrax View Post
H motors don't burn oil because of bad FRM walls. In fact, after 150k in a well maintained motor, the walls still usually have decent cross hatching left. They usually just shred rings faster than iron sleeves
God i hope your not actually talking about h series... or anything with FRM. FRM liners are not crosshatched, infact they are glass smooth and honed out not bored.... thats why you have to use factory or mahle gold pistons/rings because the liners are completely different from standard iron or steel sleeved blocks. another great thing is that the h22 has a closed deck therefore you can run a thinner cylinder wall and more boost...different convo.

anyways google fiber re-enforced metal sleeves , h22 and you will figure it out....im not trying to be a dick. just saving you from sayin somethin kinda dumb on a very flaming site in the future (i mean honda-tech not here of course)

sorry i went off on a tangent... just proving a point. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_H_engine read...


**edit** see no crosshatch...at all GRANTED THIS IS OUT OF A K SERIES but same cylinder walls. this is from a fresh motor...
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:16 AM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

A completely smooth cylinder wall won't hold compression very well. The little V's created by crosshatching help hold pressure as the piston moves up and down. That's why a worn wall with vertical scratches hurts compression. Information on honing FRM can be found in the Helms page 7-17 (at least on mine, but it's '92 specific)

SB618958 #18939

1990-2001 Prelude – Honing Fiber Reinforced Metal (FRM) cylinders 2000-01 S2000

All S2000 and 1990 and later VTEC and SI Preludes have Fiber-Reinforced Metal (FRM) cylinder liners. FRM honing is not required unless the cylinder has deep vertical scratches that run the length of the bore. Cylinders with light colored spots or flaking cannot be corrected by honing and must be replaced.

To hone FRM liners, perform the following:
Use a rigid hone (not a ball hone) with GC-600-J or finer stones for nonferrous
metals. The honing pressure should be 200-300 kPa (2-3 kg-cm2, 29-43 psi).
Use an oil type honing oil.
Hone at 45-50 rpm to a 60 degree-crosshatch pattern.
Do not stroke the hone more than 20 cycles.
After honing, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal particles by
washing with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately. Never use
solvent; it will only redistribute the grit.
Some light vertical scoring and scratching is acceptable if it isn’t deep enough
to catch your fingernail, and doesn’t run the full length of the bore. (rm,sn)

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Old 07-23-2010, 10:58 PM
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Re: Curious if this would really work

I stand corrected. but then i ask does honda-tuning have it wrong? they did a whole article on how the frm cylinder walls are glass smooth. ill have to look through my junk to find out what issue.
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