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How much harder to change driver's side CV joint than passenger side?

 
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Old 12-14-2009, 12:29 PM
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Questions about changing the driver's side CV joint than passenger side?

Hi all...

93 Vtec-5spd

Since i'm doing my 5 lug conversion, I figure I may as well change my cv joint since its not looking too good anyway.

I got the passenger out and it isn't in good shape...

I'm not positive my drivers side is in BAD shape, that is the boot doesn't appear to be ripped...

I guess my first question is... how do I know if its bad?

I'm not LOOOKING to replace stuff that doesn't need to be replaced... but the car has 157k miles on it, I have NO IDEA when the previous owner changed em' and its a bitch to get that knuckle out and dont wanna have to take it apart again in a few months just for this again... Would rather just do it now IF ITS in bad shape.

No sounds coming from it, no vibrations that I can tell...

And lastly, the passenger side was a bitch to pry out.... but I did it... the driver's side LOOKs a little more intimidating beacuse of the shaft coming from the transmission....

so the 2nd question is... the cv axle slips out of this shaft right? I dont replace everything from transmission allll the way to the wheel bearing right?

And how do you pop it out of that axle if thats what is to be done? The passenger side is simple you just shove a screw driver in there and pry until it comes loose... but for some reason i'm afraid to put pressure on that shaft... (if thats whats to be done) -- is there some kind of special tool for this or does it just pry out same as the passenger side?

Lastly, That shaft that connects the tranny to the driver's side cv axle on my car looks kinda rusted up... Should that concern me? Is that something that is typically replaced when the cv is done?

Thanks in advance for all the tips advice guys!
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Last edited by starbai; 12-14-2009 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 12-14-2009, 12:47 PM
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Re: How much harder to change driver's side CV joint than passenger side?

personally i'd just replace the entire axle instead of the CV boot. easier to do IMO.

it'll be obvious if the boot needs to be replaced. it'll be ripped or torn and grease will FLYYYYYYYY radially outward, making a mess of everything.
the drivers side is almost identical, you just disconnect it from the intermediate shaft, which is as simply as prying it out w/ a screwdriver/prybar against the bracket that bolts the half-shaft to the block.
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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 12-14-2009, 12:54 PM
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Re: How much harder to change driver's side CV joint than passenger side?

I'm afraid to put pressure on shaft that goes into the tranny on the driver's side and am wondering whta thte best course of attack is to pull it out. on my back with the car on the air or standing next to the car on the side?

but if I gotta do ti with a screw driver and prying i'm going to have to be on my back i guess.

And yea I'll be replacing the entire thing... not just the boot.

the boot on my driver's side though isn't in bad shape... i wonder if the previous owner may have replaced the driver's side and not the passenger side?

My passeger's side boot was all kindsa torn and **** leaking from it... so I am definitly replacing that without a doubt (the entire passenger cv axle/joint)

Again not sure if I should just do the driver's side too since everything is apart while I'm swapping my 5 lug swap from the 92 to the 93...
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Old 12-14-2009, 12:58 PM
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Re: How much harder to change driver's side CV joint than passenger side?

while its all apart and you have all the tools laying around anyway, i'd do both of them.


i just told you how to take it off; pry between the bracket that holds the half-shaft on, and the thick end of the axle. your gonna hafta get under the car. man up.
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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 12-14-2009, 01:30 PM
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Re: How much harder to change driver's side CV joint than passenger side?

If a boot is leaking or ripped in any way replace the whole shaft, or you will have the same PITA in a few months when it starts making noise.
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Old 12-14-2009, 02:15 PM
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Re: How much harder to change driver's side CV joint than passenger side?

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Originally Posted by twokexlv6coupe View Post
while its all apart and you have all the tools laying around anyway, i'd do both of them.


i just told you how to take it off; pry between the bracket that holds the half-shaft on, and the thick end of the axle. your gonna hafta get under the car. man up.
lol i've no problem gettin under the car bro lol

Just drained the tranny oil to get the passenger side one out.

I think i may just leave the driver's side for now... the thing looks like it could be brand new... or pretty new anyway..

comparing to the condition of the passenger side, the driver's side looks like it was installed just yesterday (relatively speaking)

the boots are okay doesn't seem to have any play and it wasn't making any wierd noises.


That said I was a complete bone head not thinking that autozone would want the core for the passenger side... and i tossed the old one cuz the grease was getting everywhere...

Advance Auto Parts though didn't want the core (thankfully) so I just picked up the passenger side.

After this is all done... my next step is to figure out my loose steering wheel... it has a lot of play at TDC.

I'm thinking about getting the whole rack/pinion rebuilt/replaced....

The outter tie rods are okay and the inner ones as I understand the best wsay to do it is to take the rack out anyway...

The new rack comes with new inner rods so I figure at least this way the problem is completely illiminated... not much else that could cause that play once its replaced.

Then after that gotta get the climate control fixed (same problem that everyone else has) and the right stalk on the steering wheel that controls the wipers....

After all this the car SHOULD be mint condition!

that is if the master/slave cylinder and transmission drain/refill clears up the hard shifting issue I had.
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