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Are these legitimit?

 
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Old 07-25-2008, 07:05 PM
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Are these legitimit?

I found a kit on ebay that converts a p05/06 to a p28... are these kits legitimate?
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Old 07-26-2008, 01:19 AM
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Which kit exactly?
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Old 07-26-2008, 01:45 AM
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sorry, ment to post a link... here it is http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...mZ130241028336
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Old 07-26-2008, 01:49 AM
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the price and picture are saying no
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:00 AM
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thats what I was afraid of
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:05 AM
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usually gotta pay the cost to be the boss-t
hahaha. Usually if there's not a picture of an item, just one of those MS paint files, DON'T trust them.

sorry for being ignorant, but whats got you interested in a p28 ecu? benefits or something?
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:23 AM
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gonna run it with either uberdata or hondata once I get my car Boosted
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:30 AM
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i guess your gonn hve to pay up,
are you going to use that turbo you already have?
get it cleaned up maybe at the least, your f22 should hold well with it, 8lbs-ish im guessing? Ive heard people saying ebay intercolers are fine, check up on that and do some research!
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:39 AM
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I've been researching and saving money for quite some time now (longer than i've ever researched anything in my life lol)... I have the turbo... but it will need rebuild, and the o2 housing is cracked... I may pull the turbo apart and clean it really well, and if the shaft play is minimul then Ill use it... if all else fails I can get a 14b rebuild kit for like 60 bux off ebay... getting the parts and putting it all together will be easy (in a manner of speaking) its just the ECU/chipping/socketing/datalogging(?)/basemapping/tuning that no matter how much I read about it i just dont get it... I learn stuff better by doing it.. kenistetic or something like that is what my school calls it... reading never did much for me
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Old 07-26-2008, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomas97 View Post
sorry for being ignorant, but whats got you interested in a p28 ecu? benefits or something?
I think you are right to be suspicious of this... I paid $175 (and that was a great deal) for mine at my motorsports shop (a p28 ready to tune... see ride in sig, or eCtune @ Blueridge Motorsports). That included the ECU the all the harware to chip (which you may actually be able to get for cheap.. could be you would get what you needed in that ebay deal??), and the labor to chip it.

The benefit of the chipped p28 is that is can be used with the different tuning roms editors (I think hondata has added p13 support now but the others don't)... The problem for us vtec guys is that the p13 is a conservative ecu (my motorsports shop thinks it was hondas worst and that it was the only shortcoming of the 4th gen). Its runs lean on the low end, and rich on the high end, so you can benefit greatly from getting rid of the p13 and opting for a dynotune... also allows vtec crossover adjustment, etc... For an f22 build with boost you can get a lot better numbers with a dynotuned p28.

anyway... it is possible you would get just the harware to convert the p05/06 (nonvtec) to a p28... but good luck...

Last edited by mr_y82; 07-26-2008 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 07-26-2008, 12:16 PM
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also... it doesn't say you can tune it after the conversion... all it is doing is giving you a stock p28 that you then would have to pay ($100 at my shop) to get chipped to work with eCtune... I bet it is legit, but it might not be worth the trouble unless you can do all the chipping and tuning on your own...

It is a lot cheaper to pick up a p05/06/r4 though.... p28s run really high... p72 works also, but they go for ridiculous amounts because people think they want the gsr computer even though there is no benefit..

why would you want an ECU with vtec to run a boosted f22???? you don't need the p28, just a non vtec ecu on this page and eCtune:
http://www.ectune.com/eCtune/Require...6/Default.aspx

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Old 07-26-2008, 05:44 PM
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Ah, thanks for explaining that, rep for you (if it works)
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Old 07-26-2008, 05:46 PM
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^wwhheeee... there aren't any luders around here so it's hard to get here in the boonies of the appalachian mtns.. the roads are fun though.
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Old 07-26-2008, 05:50 PM
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i bet your car would run a little bit funky if you can to the suburbs of chicago if your up in the mts.
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Old 07-26-2008, 05:53 PM
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Well, the highest mtn around here is mt mitchell (highest peak east of the miss. river at 6684ft), I took a ride up there with my wife on the twisties to dial in the new suspension w/ polyurethane bushings.. Bushing and Camber Kit Discussion

I live in the foothills at about 2000ft... so the air isn't too thin.
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Old 07-26-2008, 06:01 PM
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oh gotcha, that does affect the car though right, like someone in like South dakota is gonna have a different mixture than like me in illinois right? (mixture tune wise)
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Old 07-26-2008, 06:09 PM
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I would imagine it would make a little difference... I don't think it would effect everyday running of the car... my car was tuned at only about 1400ft... another town over, about 30 minutes away... didn't miss a beat all the way up to 6684ft... it was a good trip... demonstrated how balance the lude is for a FWD car :)

You make an interesting point though, I do wonder how much difference it makes.
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Old 07-26-2008, 06:12 PM
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i remember going on vacation there and you could tell the difference between the dirty dense chicago air to the thin clean air.

I wonder if it affects MPG's, Power, etc. I would think you would want the DENSE air to get as much air in the cylinders as possible, hence what a turbo kinda does. My automotive teacher always told us to make more power you want more AIR rather than fuel. you still need your stoich 14.7:1 but you want a larger mixture like 147 to 10 (kidding, just an example of proportions)

he also said LEAN will make power but make the car very hot, resulting in better MPG's but will wear on engine life
where as rich will stay cooler and make less power,horrible mpg's but might decrease engine wear slope
i THINK thats what he said,
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Old 07-26-2008, 08:18 PM
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Hmm, that is interesting, I know what you are saying, but I've never heard of a correlation between the mixture and engine wear... I always thought if you let it warm up that made the most difference since about 80% of wear takes place when the car is cold... (so I have been told, I'm n scientist)

My friend and mechanic at Blueridge Motorsports (did all my work and tune) has an h22 hatch with a similar setup to me otherwise. He has been running strong (and he revs the sh!t outta it on a regular basis... to 8K...) for over 5 years I think now... he takes great care of it other than driving it like the h22a likes to be driven, and uses royal purple (which I used to think was a full synthetic)... He still barely uses any oil at all <.5 quart between 3000mi change intervals. So if running it lean (esp in the higher rpms) like we do speeds up wear it must not be by too much, esp if you take care of the car.
,
Anyway, I did put a koyo 2 row aluminum radiator in... guess that was a good idea, eh? I think I will have them set the fan (with eCtune) to come on a little quicker. I also started my h22a on royal purple (might go to mobile 1, but royal purple engines that have been abused tend to look great when torn down).. I also rarely rev the car above 2500rpm until she is completely warm... I think that makes the most difference in wear... I remember back when I drove an 88 pontiac lemans and I would watch the cool kids hop in their cold civics and go rape it with the vtec... too stupid to realize the piston heats up faster than the block, expands, and starts to eat metal.... haha, oh well....
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Old 07-26-2008, 08:28 PM
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Also, it confuses a lot people when you tell them you use "less fuel" for more power...

I think if the mtns here were higher it might make more difference to the car if you climbed high enough... ask one of these kids from colorado :)... but keep in mind... stock ECUs seem to do pretty good at all these difference elevations, so a custom tuned one should too.

I do know that when the eCtuned my friends h22 civic hatch, it put down very similar numbers to mine (a couple more HP but a couple lower torque)... I think it was at 186hp... but on dyno day a year or so later, he strapped his car down and it put down 204.7hp... so realistically on a different day, with different conditions, but on the same dyno, I could put down 200 even though I only hit 183 when they tuned me... go figure.
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Old 07-26-2008, 09:00 PM
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well i think the theory is this, the cooling system should be BULIT to handle a lean engine, so if youve got a really warm thermo and the mix goes lean as balls? well then id assume your heat up fast and parts would melt, i think thats what hes saying,

Mugen makes a tstat for the h22 that runs it cooler, i dont know if it would help but a cooler tstat for a turbie engine might be the way to do, im not too big into cooling stuff.

for your friends hatch, difference could include colder weather and a different dyno setup, i remember hearing that all dynos are different and no dyno is going to be the same.

Yeah, i was very confused when i ehard MORE AIR = MORE POWUHHHH!
most wont beleive it, go buy a vafc and try to dump fuel, because they heard vtec makes you run rich "oh well vte makes us a rich mix, lets make the whole mix rich, yaya power!" i think the more air the better it allows atomization right? and atomization is better for the fuel because its the vapors you want to combust, not the liquid. Thats also a hard fact for many to swallow, fuel vapors over the liquid?
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Old 07-26-2008, 09:10 PM
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^ I believe you are right... your starting to get technical! I guess only a certain amount of fuel is able to combust and some unburned fuel passes out to the exhaust manifold. The leaner mix has plenty of fuel and is more efficient... I know the injectors are responsible for the atomization you are speaking off, but that is about the extent of my knowledge. :)

I think I would be getting better mpgs since my tune if I wasn't being so heavy footed... :)
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Old 07-26-2008, 09:41 PM
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yes you are correct, the leaner the mix gets it also challenges the actions of your emissions control parts, if a lean mix creates too much noX gases they will polute the air. at a stock place, a engine has a "perfect" mixture, good old 14.7:1 and the cooling is set to a cozy temp, ALSO, the catalytic converter is set to absorb that perfect 14.7:1's noX gases. in a perfect world the Automobile relies on its own systems, once you tune you should get fine MPG's while maintaing that cooling, if not getting colder items to keep the temp down, however you might shoot out nox gases but you cat does its job still!
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Old 07-26-2008, 10:02 PM
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Honestly my metal substrate high-flow cat probably doesn't as much as it should, it didn't look super restrictive at all... wasn't willing to run a straight pipe, I'd feel like a jackass (No offense to those who feel differently).

I'll try to learn some more about how the tune effects engine heat/emissions from the guys at blueridge... they've taught me most of the tiny bit I know.... them, the internet, and chilton's. :)
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Old 07-26-2008, 11:41 PM
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i understand, everyone has their own theories thats why what im saying might not be 100% true, when my automotive teacher taught me this had to teach it generally speaking for most car engines but not all 100% for instance, I know the excessive heat is was causes the ozone depleting noX gases, and it IS possible that FRM h22 walls could act differently than f22 iron walls or a resleved h22 wall. every little thing down to the grade of oil you use will affect the engine in someway, wrong torque specs could lead to sloppy engine running thats why there is NOTHING better than a well assembled engine, making sure the plastiguage is gone once your done etc. etc.
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Old 07-27-2008, 01:22 AM
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sounds good to me... and yeah, I'm sure there is an amazing amount of variation between engines..
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Old 07-27-2008, 02:03 AM
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that class tried to teach me alot more about like chevy's and crappy american trucks etc. getting under the hood of your own car is the best advice i can give you
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Old 07-27-2008, 11:30 AM
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Some people act like imports are harder to work on... and looking under the hood of an lude gives you an idea why... however, my old v6 cirrus was just as cramped, and my wife's 03 corolla (only 1.8L) has tons of room to work on it... little engine in a medium sized engine bay :)
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