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The Almighty H22A Swap...Underway

 
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Old 06-30-2008, 11:12 PM
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The Almighty H22A Swap...Underway

This is not a write up but rather just me receiving guidance as I swap my H23A1/Auto tranny out of my 94' Prelude Si and throw in a built JDM H22A w/ a manual M2B4 LSD tranny...Before I even think to begin anything I do, I do research, research and even more research and this is not a thread for people to redirect me to the same H22A swap websites that I've read atleast a dozen times...I am nowhere near an expert on engines but I have done a few swaps and do have a general idea on what I need/want...There are a few questions that I would also like to have answered, but we'll get to that later.

Parts List:
JDM H22A Engine (have)
M2B4 LSD Transmission (have)
USDM OBD1 P13 ECU (have)
H22A Wiring Harness (have)
Headers along with DP (would like to get after market)
Engine and Tranny Mounts (have)
M/T Driver Side Axle (need)
Passenger Side Axle (need?)
M/T Intermediate Shaft (need)
Flywheel (have)
Clutch Disk (have)
Pressure Plate (have)
5sp Pedal Assembly (need)
M/T Starter (have)
External Coil Dizzy (using off H23)
should I use other H23 accessories?
Fuel Rail (using off H23)
Injectors (not sure but I think I need 345cc's?)
Spark Plug Wires and Plugs (need?)
Clutch Master Cylinder and Bracket (need)
Clutch Slave Cylinder and Bracket (need)
Clutch Damper and Bracket (need)
Clutch Fluid Resevoir and Bracket (need)
-Hard Lines, Bolts, Nuts, Brackets (need)
Shifter Assembly (have)
Shifter Boot and Knob (have)
Shifter Cables (have but need one cotter pin)
-Bushings, Cotter Pins, and Bolts to tranny (don't have)
30 Amp Relay
VTEC Solenoid with wiring (have)
Speed Sensor (unsure)
Timing Belt (just replace)
Water Pump (just replaced)
Gaskets (good condition)
Spark Plug Cover (on its way)
various color 16 gauge wires and electrical tape


Tools:

Elbow Grease
Engine Hoist (need)
Jack (have)
Pair of Jack Stands (have)
Metric Sockets (short) (have)
Metric Sockets (Deep) (have)
Ratchets (have)
Wheel Bearing Nut (have)
Pry Bar (have)
Screwdrivers (have)
Pliers (have)
Multimeter Voltage Tester (need)
Funnel (have)
Gloves (have)
Work Light (have)

I have a basic idea of where I can obtain all the parts that I don't currently have...There are no preludes in any of the junkyards around me so I'm still unsure how I can get my hands on all the clutch stuff or how exactly these things are mocked up, can anyone give me some sort of location, many people tell me that it's on the firewall near the tranny?

The Engine has been built for boost and I'm guessing the guy had a turbonetics kit on it and left the manifold up there
internals include, JE pistons and rods, built head, AEM tru-time cams, skunk2 camshafts, and some other ish...should i boost it?

anyway, whatever input you may have on this whole swap I'd like to know..I'm very unfamiliar with the whole clutch master/slave cylinder assembly and any advice you would have towards that would be great. Things that are very obvious or things you just hear repeatedly by other people doesn't need to be posted. Inform me of your past H22 swapping experiences and what kind of things I should pay close attention to...Thank You

Questions:
1. Would I just need the driver axle and intermediate shaft, or would I also need the passenger? do axles vary my year or engine type?
2. Can I reuse my stock H23 injectors with the H23 fuel rail or should I go with the stock H22A 345cc high peak injectors?
3. Spark Plug wires and vary from the H23, correct?
4. I have read that I need a bracket for an external coil dizzy but can't I just use the one off of my H23 or H22?
5. Can I purchase an OEM Honda belt for the JDM drive pulleys because I heard the belt should be one rib wider than the USDM H22's?
6. Will aftermarket headers for a 5th gen bolt up to my H23 downpipe?
7. Should I go with a P13 or P28 with Hondata (scared to mess with stock settings)?
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:17 AM
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sounds like your pretty prepared for this, and done plenty of research to help you out. as long as you have a coupla buddies with you and an engine lift, it shouldn't be too bad.

i'll try to help:
1: i'm pretty sure the axles depend on whether you have an auto or manual tranny. but all the axles for the manual trannies are the same (almost positive)

2: H23 injectors are too small for the H22. use the H22 injectors on the H23 fuel rail (if the motor doesn't come with one)

3: plugs are the same between the 2 motors, but the wires are different.

4: yup

5: not sure

6: doubt it, but maybe.

7: if you wanna get it tuned afterwards to make the most power (and reliability), than go p28!
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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 07-02-2008, 12:07 AM
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Number 5 answer is yes
Number 6 I don't know becuase I haven't tried it to know.

Good luck with the swap. Should you boost it? Well I say if you have the money to boost it then go ahead and do it! :)
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Old 07-02-2008, 01:24 AM
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sweet, thanks for all the help...i'll take your word for it cuz its never failed me in the past, boost would MAYBE be a project for next year tho...i'm very familiar with setups and the numbers that come with these setups, but i'd like to do some more research until i can create the perfect setup for myself..i like the idea of having low boost for daily driving and high boost with a cut-out for the track, so more controlled power? my only problem is that i have modiphobia (word?) because i believe that the engineers that designed honda's motors in the first place were built specifically how they were built for a reason which is obvious but will how great of a chance will tuning have on preventing motor eruption, lol
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Old 07-06-2008, 01:23 PM
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if u switch from auto to manual do you have to do anything with the body mounts im doing the same swap
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Old 07-06-2008, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by my4thgenlude View Post
sweet, thanks for all the help...i'll take your word for it cuz its never failed me in the past, boost would MAYBE be a project for next year tho...i'm very familiar with setups and the numbers that come with these setups, but i'd like to do some more research until i can create the perfect setup for myself..i like the idea of having low boost for daily driving and high boost with a cut-out for the track, so more controlled power? my only problem is that i have modiphobia (word?) because i believe that the engineers that designed honda's motors in the first place were built specifically how they were built for a reason which is obvious but will how great of a chance will tuning have on preventing motor eruption, lol
That's why you rebuild the motor specifically for a reason so that it doesn't erupt.
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4GenLude View Post
if u switch from auto to manual do you have to do anything with the body mounts im doing the same swap

you just gotta redrill the passenger side body mount, thats it.

or if you're really lazy, you don't even NEED to do that, but i would.
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1995 Honda Prelude SE Turbo; 250whp, 275wtq @ 10psi Soldddd!!!

2000 Acura TL; DD
2005 Stage2.5+ Subaru WRB STi : RzKar!
Ivey Tuned - Advan - Cobb - Rallispec - CP - Perrin - ACT - KillerB - Carillo - TurboXS - Defi - Innovate - Walbro - DeatschWerks - Feal - H&R - Alpine - Infiniti - Curt

2001 Kawasaki STX1100 D.I. - Sold!
2007 Sea-Doo RXT 215; ET 127 +3 S/C impeller, DIY 3" intake, DIY resonator delete/free flow exhaust, DIY oil catch can, Rule 500gph bilge pump


Quote:
Originally Posted by Brash View Post
But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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