So...

Intro

I have 0 gauge ran for 1:



with my battery in the trunk, as to keep my electronics all together


and my C/C has been removed.

My wire runs also follow on top of the factory ones.

The point is to keep this very clean and modular so it could all come out and would not have to be permanent to the car.

Basic Install

1) Replace headunit with Nexus
2) Add Power
3) Install Amp with Audio I/O
4) Run Remote Wire

The shroud for the headunit i cut back and made flush to mount on top of the nexus and using JBWeld to keep it from going anywhere. So now i really do have a nexus 7 headunit!

BEFORE:


AFTER:



So now that we have a new headunit, next is power.

With a female car charger adapter from ebay tapping into the existing charger is easy



*A note on car chargers*
(The Nexus 7 needs 2amps to charge, check the output when selecting a USB charger)

The Nexus 7 charges normally even during heavy use and with the right power management can last a week on the battery.

With that tablet install stable, next is sound.

I cut a hole in the back and pulled the headphone jack out to allow for more play. Last thing you want to to snap it because of tight space.


The audio is a 3.5mm out via a 25ft (too long) Y-cable to a 4 channel amp, strictly for the internal speakers.


I also JBWelded the amp into the wheel well so I did not have to make a ton of holes in the body. (as this is a second hand temp amp, also amp isnt ment to be removed/modular)

Now to run the remote wire. With my C/C out I can re-purpose the standalone Cruise button for the amp. (Since it lights up too, thats a plus.)
Its as simple as a T splice!


What you end up with is a standalone tablet with a remote toggle, nothing crazy, and obviously you can install a switch anywhere for the remote instead of repurposing the C/C.

-- In reality you could stop here and run with touch screen controls... but i didnt. --

Advanced Install
BEWARE-NOT FOR THE TIMID
*DISCLAIMER* SEE POST #30

1) Extend hardware buttons
2) Modify Horn
3) Volume buttons
4) Power button

(Get a friend that can actually solder for this or you will be buying a replacement ribbon cable, DONT MELT IT!)

The biggest PITA so far is extending the hardware controls from the Nexus ribbon cable.
(I went through 3 cables or so...)

Use the softest wire you can find and solder to the ribbon connections


The reason for this is so when you are bending wires around you dont break your soldering!



I used cat5 after getting the hardware buttons extended from the nexus to give me an easy connection.
There is a cat5 coupler JBWelded in the dash to connect the tablet connection to the car connection for easy removal.



Again I have no C/C so I have easy UP/DOWN buttons available right on my wheel. Tapping into those is the next step.

However before we can use the C/C buttons we need to modify the horn. (This is needed!)

The steering wheel and SRS reel need to come off and the SRS reel needs cracked open.
The horn and the C/C share a common ground, meaning your volume buttons will send the horn into a loop along with the volume if used.
To fix this the single wire for the horn needs moved over 1 notch to the empty slot. (You only have 1)

Original discovery post
Wiring diagram, for those that can read it: http://i.imgur.com/nRr49sQ.jpg



Then put the reel back together.
Since we disconnected from the common we need to run the new individual wire to the horn connector, using that empty slot we picked up.


Then disconnecting all the C/C wires from the connector (since we don't need those anyhow) and connecting the new standalone wire.


Gives us a completely separate line for the horn as we begin to keep the C/C wires, from the steering wheel, looped back inside for the tablet.


As for those other 2 wires, thats Vol Up/Down, again because of the shared ground.


and the green would be for the power button.


giving you something like this.

(Blue=Horn;Black=Wheel controls;Grey=Cat5 to tablet;Green=Power)

And finally the end result of tits.


Enjoy!

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that's cool. what did you do about music? is it connected to your speakers?

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J.L.D.E.P.P.M.S.3.C.N.Y.C.N.C.A.D
Jams Lobsta Denny EA Peter Prelude Miata STI 300zx club of NY and Canada and NC All Day.

#MadeMorePowerThanJoshClub
Bustr Built

Built in America.
H23A1 2.4t VTEC Project

How 'bout a how to please.

That's pretty friggin' cool.

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God's Not Dead

I'd love to see how exactly you did this.

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Texas Lude
99 Base

I love that. Give us some more details. What kind of sound quality are you getting/expecting and how did you go about this?

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My Supercharged 4th Gen

please please please tell us how you did this!!!!!

wtf is a nexus 7??? lol looks pretty cool

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Bad Gas Mileage? Click the link
http://www.preludezone.com/diy-engin...s-mileage.html

My Build Thread
http://www.preludezone.com/4th-gen-h...ut-surely.html

4th gen 5spd swap writeup
http://www.preludezone.com/diy-engin...p-4th-gen.html

ProjectPrelude95- It's a tablet! And this is awesome! Write up please!

Write up please! seeing as the OP has not responded by now. Has another one else done this and have a write up? I would love to do this

I will get one started, I didnt want to start a write up on a project i wasnt finished with yet.

Power needs amped up
- new car charger

Audio needs connected
- Speakers
- Amp
- Wiring

I tried hardware buttons twice now, but they are a PITA to get right, and my solder job was perfect... all touch has been working out really well tho.

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Great! I'll be patiently waiting and I'm sure others will be too :-D

Yay!!
Maybe a note 8 could work also...

My only question is...
Is it removable in case it has issues?
Well 2...
Do you still have access to the charger port? If it's rooted you can use otg mini usb to usb cord and use a flash drive as a music source with the 7.

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God's Not Dead

write ups are too tough, specially with me making it up as i go, sorry.

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almost done, got a lot of RCA cables and speaker wire to buy. after that is me trying to tackle the hardware buttons for a 3rd time. (maybe)

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I was looking at doing something similiar but I would use a bluetooth module to plug in to a sound processor, so I can stream from the tablet to the sound processor. Or I if wanted to sync my cell to it I would be able to

Bought another button ribbon, will be trying hardware buttons for a 3rd time... Wish me luck

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3rd times a charm, I got my hardware buttons extended from the ribbon cable, all i have to do is splice it into the C/C buttons.

The trick with the h/w buttons is a REALLY SOFT WIRE. I used super glue to secure everything. You want to be pulling on the super glue instead of the soldering joints. The ribbon and the solder should be solid and stationary. Pulling does happen, so just account for it... Also, its better to break the headphone jack out as well (more flexibility).

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How's it sound? Any software eq of the music player required?

Why not gorilla glue, double side hobby foam tape, or something a bit more flexible? Would industrial velcro strips work? I've had a strip of the white kind on my dash as cell phone holder for about 5 years without fail.
I've found over the years that super glue unexpectedly lets go.

Awesome job. Glad the 3rd time worked. Thanks for the write up.

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God's Not Dead

my new issue is that my hardware buttons work with the c/c buttons except for the horn is tied to the common ground, short circuiting the whole thing, giving me a constant horn or no horn.

C/C Wiring schematics:
simple: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-t...it?usp=sharing
advanced: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-t...it?usp=sharing

I need to seperate the horn from the C/C then ill be all good.

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i am done with this project minus running the front door speakers, (not a big deal) so as promised I am filling in the gaps and finishing this write up

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Write up done, project done, any questions?

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1995 Honda Prelude SE Turbo; 250whp, 275wtq @ 10psi Soldddd!!!
2000 Acura TL; DD
2005 Stage2.5+ Subaru WRB STi : RzKar!
Ivey Tuned - Advan - Cobb - Rallispec - CP - Perrin - ACT - KillerB - Carillo - TurboXS - Defi - Innovate - Walbro - DeatschWerks - Feal - H&R - Alpine - Infiniti - Curt
2001 Kawasaki STX1100 D.I. - Sold!
2007 Sea-Doo RXT 215; ET 127 +3 S/C impeller, DIY 3" intake, DIY resonator delete/free flow exhaust, DIY oil catch can, Rule 500gph bilge pump

I spun a bearing in my Lude so, since its just sitting, I started digging into my wiring in an attempt to make things look not so... "hacked" together.

I removed the stock rear speaker wires and re-purposed the Acoustic Feedback System wire. I removed the cat5 cable and ran a single wire from my C/C button to the AFBS connection as a new remote wire. Again in an attempt to make it a lil more modular if I have to remove stuff.

(The little white wire)


Through the plastic cover, with the factory wiring.


and behind the fuse box


Finished and wrapped with my Y cable

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Posted a video to show things off a bit. http://youtu.be/d2_KfC1s1rE

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This is an awesome modification! I don't know how I didn't see this before, thank you for linking to it from your build thread!

I don't understand how to do any of it and I'm too cheap to risk cutting into and modifying a tablet.. ****, I'm too cheap to buy a tablet..But this is definitely very cool. Thank you for sharing the how-to, it definitely deserves applause.

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started replacing the dinky speaker wires w/ 14g speaker wire all around. Previously I only had the rear speakers connected but now ill have doors! had to take them off to run the line tho...

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Here's a post I saw for running the door wires, that isnt bad, but on this one I didnt drill holes to run single strands.
How to: Install 6.5" Door Component Speakers - eXtremePrelude.com

I just kept them side-by-side, between the green studs and bend the hole for the connector in the door.




It seems way easier, and the bend is just enough for the wire and just enough for the rubber boot to still cover.

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I bought a new (2013) Nexus 7 for myself after breaking the one for the car and trying to fix mine.
So the original Nexus is broken and junk while this one (my old personal one) is now in its place and better than before.
I introduce the Nexus 2.0 build

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After installing my second nexus i realized my volume buttons werent working because i had my commons backward and had to switch them, no big deal.
However...
Shortly after I noticed my SRS light was on, so...
I got the code and it was 1-3 which i put together with a "open circuited Or high Resistance In Drivers Air Bag Inflator" diagnostic.

I tried to reset it and it kept coming back on, so moved on to trying to jump it out.
See:
5th Gen Prelude Airbag Removal - SRS Light / MES Writeup - Honda-Tech

I got 4x 10 ohm @ 1/2-watt for $1.50 at RadioShack (5-pack) and started plugging away.
I had no success bypassing the connection behind airbag AT THE WHEEL and moved on to disconnecting the plug BEHIND THE WHEEL *pic* (under the dash), jumped and cleared the code again... No issues.
And this is where the problem is...



TL;DR *DISCLAIMER*
As of right now (until I can prove its not related) I do not recommend you alter your SRS reel for volume buttons, if you are considering it.
You may risk damage or deployment of your airbag or safety system and in turn potentially to yourself.
As of right not I have no driver airbag and the evidence suggests that it is not limited to just the airbag, but due to the entire SRS reel itself (possibly from modification)

Until I can resolve these issues and restore my safety system to full funtion...
I can not in good conscience suggest that you attempt this yourself.

Its also worth noting that i disconnected all volume buttons i had ran to the wheel to rule them out as well and could only remove the light by bypassing the SRS reel all together

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I just went out and reconnected the reel and moved my resistors up a connector.
( because i like to be thorough )

and i can confirm that the SRS reel is fine.
I can only assume that I didnt clear the code right the first... dozen times i tried it, but it is what it is.

I am going to try and get my airbag tested by a dealer and see how it goes.

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