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prelude paint job

 
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:34 PM
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prelude paint job

I plan on doing it myself. I'll honestly more than likely F it up.



But some questions..

I wanna go the same color so I don't have to respray jams and such (B-68P)

I flat blacked my car (kinda regret that)..

But I was wanting to spray it myself


Where can I get the paint?

How much will I need?
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:42 AM
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Re: prelude paint job

Depends man, what materials will you be using?
If you got dents pull them or fill the dings and what kind of clear do you want to use(what makes the car shine)-MOST IMPORTANT
To correctly do a repaint you are look at no less than 800.
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:04 AM
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Re: prelude paint job

Where can I get the OEM B68-P paint?
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:18 PM
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Re: prelude paint job

if you really wanna know all the details it would be much easier to go to your local autobody shop and they can probly sell you the paint, let ya know how much you need, maybe even hool you up with a paint gun???
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:59 PM
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Re: prelude paint job

when you flat blacked out your car; what kind of paint was it that you used?
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Old 02-09-2010, 12:22 AM
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Re: prelude paint job

walmart 97 cent cans. lol. its a very very thin coat of flatblack.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:17 AM
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Re: prelude paint job

ok ok lol.. well u prefferably need to DA the surface with 180 allover because of the weathering while driving the car for some time. and re-seal the car withe a better (primer SEALER). the clear and the color are the most expensive and u dont wana just paint it agian in 6 months so try and do it right. after priming/sealing block with 320 but since your car is silverand mainly metallic you will want to fnish with 400 or better so the metalics dont tend to fall into the sand scratches and show body work. u have a job in front of u but since its a lude it will be a good one. got togo to work hope this helps ask for more details
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:04 AM
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Re: prelude paint job

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Originally Posted by pcggattnc View Post
ok ok lol.. well u prefferably need to DA the surface with 180 allover because of the weathering while driving the car for some time. and re-seal the car withe a better (primer SEALER). the clear and the color are the most expensive and u dont wana just paint it agian in 6 months so try and do it right. after priming/sealing block with 320 but since your car is silverand mainly metallic you will want to fnish with 400 or better so the metalics dont tend to fall into the sand scratches and show body work. u have a job in front of u but since its a lude it will be a good one. got togo to work hope this helps ask for more details
NO! DA's are not recommended EVER I wont use a DA just because they Eff stuff up, real men get dirty and use their strength to work on cars :D. I posted the only company I work with, PCL Primer sealer.your technique is a bit out there....I spray 3-4layers of Primer+ spray a guide coat 97 walmart can comes in handy block it with 150grit clean it up spray 3-4 layers of primer+guide coat Block again with 150...Spray 1 last time 3-4 layers of Primer+guide coat then Wetsand with 500grit. This is where if you tend to have enough Primer-Sealer is where you seal it...Since its important to seal (protects your work) Please spray your color and clear at this time, Hi-misconception is that you can seal it and then 2 weeks or some odd days after you can paint it...Waste of material if you do so.
After letting the car bake (heater) for about 2-3 hrs leave the car for 3-5 days then take some 2000grit and wetsand the car dull because of the little dimples in the clear..Then buff it shiny :D and smile you did the best job you could do.
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