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View Full Version : Anyone with a system/subs?


cincybulldog5
04-27-2008, 01:35 PM
I know on my Prelude, the trunk rattles a lot, as well as the back window..

Has anyone tried dynamat? Or have any other suggestions?


Once again, thanks in advance! :smile:

PreludeBoy95'
04-27-2008, 01:42 PM
not really i thought about it but nah...mainly my liscense plate rattles..but i plan on buyin styrofoam sheets and cut out washers and place with the bolts..it should help some and its cheap

cincybulldog5
04-27-2008, 01:45 PM
My 15" hits hard and rattles the trunk and window a ton.. I bolted my license plate down tight, it used to be real bad too..


BUT...
50sq. feet on Ebay for 60 bucks...

I might give it a shot, just looking for someone who has tried it..

PreludeBoy95'
04-27-2008, 02:07 PM
here maybe this will help...theres R8GYY on here who has dynamat

http://preludezone.com/showthread.php?t=6816&highlight=dynamat

cincybulldog5
04-27-2008, 02:14 PM
Thanks, I'll check that out..

Anyone know anything about "FatMat" or "Xtreme"? Know the difference? I'm not sure which to buy, but the FatMat is way cheaper. Anyone who has dynamat please respond! :)

yogi_pahl
04-27-2008, 02:20 PM
Idk if it will stop ur trunk from shaking all that much. It is used to lessing the noise not to keep ur car from shaking.

cincybulldog5
04-27-2008, 02:26 PM
I have always heard that it keeps the sound inside your trunk and really reduces rattling... But that's why I posted on here, because I haven't experienced this myself..

yogi_pahl
04-27-2008, 02:31 PM
Well it will some what b/c of its weight. something heaver will not move as much and it absorbers some of the vibrations too. But it will not make not rattle at all.

Brash22
04-27-2008, 05:26 PM
I have dynamat Xtreme in my doors and rear shelf. Definatly worth the money. Think of it this way - the improvement in sound that I got from spending $200 on dynamat I would've had to spend an extra $500-750 (at least!) on better speakers.

cincybulldog5
04-27-2008, 05:34 PM
I have heard all good things about Dynamat Extreme..

I'm wondering if I can get by with "FatMat".. Because it's one-third of the price, lol.. Fits into my budget better! Plus I've heard it's a good value, at the low price..

Brash22
04-27-2008, 10:17 PM
Since I'm not sure of the difference I'm not in a position to comment, but I fully understand where you come from mate.

nevrdun
04-29-2008, 08:24 AM
Sound deadening will keep your sheet metal from vibrating or "shaking" to some extent. I hear of a lot of people using dynamat because it is the most readily available. Stay away from super cheap stuff. Its probably going to fall off or not give you good results. Get something reputable. To do sound deadening twce....not fun.

muha22752
05-01-2008, 10:33 AM
mine is fine accept one of the foam peaces in my bumper is broken so it rattles

cincybulldog5
05-01-2008, 02:33 PM
No rattling? Your subs must not hit, lol. :cool:

R8GYY
05-01-2008, 02:39 PM
im sure we have covered this dynamat story already

98BB6SH
05-12-2008, 01:23 AM
by the way dynamat works really well but it is really expensive. you can purchase insulation or weather stripping sold in sheets that you can cut to size. a buddy of mine went to a craft store and just used very thin sheets of foam. good luck. let us know what you use and how it goes

LilMsPrelude
07-02-2008, 08:36 PM
this is a MUST read for those thinking about buying the e-bay, fat mat or other "cheaper" stuff... you TRULY get what you pay for!


www.sounddeadenershowdown.com (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com)

also check out Second skin/Damplifier at http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

Dman
07-02-2008, 08:41 PM
You can also check out some 3m double sided tape behind the plate. The stuff worked pretty good for me, it only cost a couple of bucks!!

xiayu
07-02-2008, 09:46 PM
Remove your third brake light.

acardi
07-04-2008, 08:24 PM
love the stuff well worth the money

PreludeFX
09-16-2008, 09:11 AM
Yo hey im a rep for dynamat PM I will answer everything you need to know. Its amazing stuff used right. Costly but well worth it.

LilMsPrelude
09-16-2008, 02:06 PM
costly??

When you consider the thickness and quality of a VIBRATION DAMPENING Material you want to go with the thickest you can find. Just because Dynamat or Damplifier is "more Expensive," for the initial purchase, consider the quality you are getting... and what you are NOT getting:

*You will NOT get an asphalt based deadener that IS toxic and WILL stink up your car for months to come
* you will NOT get a product that falls off your trunk lid or walls when it gets stupid hot outside.
*you will NOT have to buy MORE of the "cheaper" to equal the same vibration dampening quality of the BETTER product.

__________
Price is not and should NOT be a determining factor when discussing Vibration Dampening materials.
Notice how many times I said Vibration Dampening?

with the BETTER Product, you can buy less and do the same work. Yes, you can sparingly apply it to the flat surfaces between the bracing on the trunk lid... since that is what is vibrating anyways. A flat surface has less strength and thusly less resistant to the subsonic frequencies causing it to vibrate in the first place. It's natural resonant frequency is substantially reduced. Try it, you will like it.

PreludeFX
09-16-2008, 04:04 PM
Agreed price should not be a factor, you pay for what you get. But as far as Dynamat goes ive used it 100's of times never been dissatisfied. Not only is it a sound deadener, it acts as a thermo accoustic barrier. Used properly you can gain better SQ and DB.

LilMsPrelude
09-16-2008, 05:42 PM
I appologize in advance: lol...

just one correction... it is NOT a sound deadener; by default it is a Vibration Dampener that does so by adding mass to the panel it is applied to, thus reducing the panels resonant frequency and its ability to pass on inherent noises, like tire, engine, and other vibration born audible distortions. A side effect of the Dampener is a perceived reduction in noise.
IF you truly are trying to get rid of noises... (ie: Cadillac/Lexus style) then not only do you need this mass, BUT you also should use a few other products like:
-Luxury Liner
-Overkill
-Spectrum
(all products of Second Skin Automotive insulation)
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/products/Sound-Deadening-Materials.php

that is if you are so inclined to take the extra step. I am More into audio (you think??) than speed so I will be doing this to my 92 very soon. I want to have a great sounding entertainment system FIRST. lol!

nstory13
09-16-2008, 11:05 PM
Dynomat is awesome. I can't wait to get it in my car.

sk8 luder 97
09-23-2008, 06:09 AM
where would you apply the dynomat in the 5th gen??

nstory13
09-23-2008, 06:26 AM
Trunk, doors, anywhere really. Just remember the more dynomat you use the heavier your car. But the more you use the more sealed your car will be.

nevrdun
09-23-2008, 08:26 AM
Well, that's not entirely true. Each company has a recommended amount per square foot to get the most effective damping. just apply anywhere its not that cost effective. The best places to use it are on unbroken sheet metal. For example trunk lid, outer door skins, other exterior sheet metal. supported metal will not benefit as much from damping material as loose, easily vibrated metal. However, if you have the material to do it there nothing wrong with doing the whole car. It's just costly.

PreludeFX
09-23-2008, 01:20 PM
I prefer to do the outer and inner skins of my doors, then the floor, and lastly the roof if you feel like taking that plunge. Every bit of it all worth it.

Mdtdnb
09-23-2008, 01:34 PM
well i'm late to this thread but oh well!

i had about 100 lbs of Dynamat Extreme in my accord and it did wonders. you probably dont need as much as i used but i had to suppress 154 db and over 3700 watts.

If you can get 50 sq feet for $60....great deal. worth every penny.

To install, get a high quality HEAT GUN. DO NOT use a hairdryer!!!! Also, get a huge shop cloth and gloves so you can press it firmly w/o burning your self. you will need a sharp razor blade and lots of spare blades. they get dull quick.

take out the backseat, rear deck, all lining in the trunk and go to town. you will probably only need one layer that covers a wide range of space. also, you will want to do the inside of your trunk lid. maybe even 2 layers here. when you do the rear deck, keep in mind it is going to make your rear decks sound amazing too!!! The whole thing will take a while. I think i spent about 10 hours or so doing my car. Also you can do the inside of your door panels if you have issues there.

PreludeFX
09-23-2008, 04:16 PM
if you can get 50 sq ft for that price you the luckiest man alive. For the record as well you dont need a heat gun, for the dynamat extreme or any of their products. That hasnt been needed for many years now.

Mdtdnb
09-23-2008, 04:28 PM
i have to disagree and I at least highly recommend the heat gun for one reason. It will never ever peel if you just stick it on. i have seen it many times where it just doesnt stay. especially if the surface has any dust on it....which it most likely will.

nevrdun
09-24-2008, 08:24 AM
You definately do need a heat gun! Any particularly when doing inner door panels and things with uneven surfaces to make the material soft enough to conform to tight corners otherwise unless you get it all the way in the dip of the sheet metal you aren't getting as much coverage as you should. A lot of material still has heat activated glue. Even if they don't the heat still makes 100% better results. For the exception of a few. Cascade vb2-max has a thick aluminum backings (about 2 or 3 times dynamat extreme) and it's adhesive is extremely good. If you can manage to pull it off you can stick it back down.

LilMsPrelude
09-24-2008, 09:45 AM
to re-itterate again:
Since all vehicles are different (including the mutliple Gens of our beloved preludes) There are really only a few "rules" that must be followed:

1) - the surface you are adhering to should be clean and free of any residue, dust, etc...if not, then even the Best dampening material will suffer an earlier failure (ie: fall off)

2) - The surface you are adhering the mat to should be at least 70 degrees. If not it needs to be heated to said temperature either in a garage/Shop or by applying heat to the metal, NOT the dampening material, before bonding the two.

3) - The material itself should also be room temperature-- to cold and it is un-workable, hard to manage. Too warm and it becomes sticky and extremely messy. MOST material should also be between 65-80 degrees for Optimum efficiencey.

4) - you DO NEED to use a roller or similiar tool to press the dampening material onto the surface it will be attached to. Not only does it provide better adhesion, but ensures maximum dampening capabilities, and as an added plus, it makes carpet and other interior panels easier to put back on.

if you are on a budget you can, as said before, JUST apply it to the flat, unsupported/non braced surfaces. Since that is what is vibrating and making the noise and consuming precious sound energy.

The price vs Quantity comparrison does NOT belong together in the sound dampening world. 50 sq ft for $60 sounds like a deal..... now. But when you have to spend that money again in a year (or two if your lucky) it wont be such a good deal. DO NOT use the cheap asphalt based crap. Save a little more and buy a QUALITY brand that will last for a very long time! And NOT stink up your car with it's toxic emmisions. (asphalt)

search the web, go to DIYMobileaudio.com or CarAudio.com, and search for "sound dampening" you will learn a LOT! AND you will be spending your money wisely.

Exerstine
10-18-2008, 09:54 PM
i put a bit of hushmat behind my plate and never had a problem with the plate.. then i got a bigger box and put it in the backseat.. no trunk rattle ever since. pretty cool windshield and sunroof flex tho