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Si Speed
04-20-2008, 05:56 PM
So those of you who have and do your own paint work, what all do I need?

What I DO Have
-Air compressor
-newspaper
-masking tape
-beer
-closed in garage with heat/ac

What I DON'T Have
-paint
-primer
-paint gun
-clear coat
-electric sander and sandpaper
-Bondo

I'm going to be welding the holes shut when I shave the emblems, I can do that at shcool.

My trunk has some nasty rust from the spoiler holes (Florida car). Right now, I don't know if I want a Type S spoiler or none, but the rust needs to be fixed regardless so what's the best way to go about that? The rust is bad enough where I think I'm going to have to do a little cutting and putting fresh metal in.
Also, if someone can tell me:
-What paint grits I need
-Where to get Brilliant Black paint (code PZ/PX)
-How much to get if I do 3 coats of paint and 3 coats of clear
-Ballpark price on all this stuff

Rep for any and all useful input.

2.2Lude
04-20-2008, 05:59 PM
for the rust i think the best thing to do would be to just cut it all off and weld in new sheet metal, since im sure you can do that at school

dupli-color has the Brilliant Black paint (code PZ/PX), you could order it off line or get it from pepboys

Si Speed
04-20-2008, 06:11 PM
My skills ain't that good... I might do it to someone else's car but not mine. The instructor doesn't like me (but who does?) so he won't do it for me. I might get my cousin to do it. He's been welding for a living for about 5 years now.

94ludeguy
04-20-2008, 06:47 PM
u need a separator to get any water out of the air

Si Speed
04-20-2008, 06:53 PM
How much will that run me?
I live between 2 small creeks but they both should be dried up by the middle of June.

99PreludeSh
04-20-2008, 06:53 PM
SO are getting a new spoiler or are you going spolierless?

Grind the all the loose rust off then your going to want to put Rust-Mort on it and let it sit for 24hours, once the 24hrs is up you have to put water on it to neutralize the rust converter. The rust-mort converts the rust into something salvageable. Then throw some filler on there and sand it down with 180p then progressively get finer with the sand paper. Then you will finish around the are with 320 then spray your primer on those spots, and block that down with 600p wet, and scuff the rest of the deck lid with gray scotch brite. Then you are ready to paint.

As far as materials you need:

rust-mort
sand paper
filler
primer
more sand paper
sealer is optional
paint
clear

tools

Grinder
paint gun
compressor

Irish Luder
04-20-2008, 06:55 PM
you dont have to weld it, its probobly the best option but you could always cut out the rust and then get a fibreglass kit and fibregass it!
im not sure what you mean about paint grit, if you mean what grit sandpaper then id use 1200 wet and dry and scotch brite is good for the harder sanding before that!
are you painting the whole car or just the boot? if your painting the whole car then you'll need about 5litres of paint id say and i cant help you on where to get it or how much it'll cost you!

oh and dont forget degreaser because if you paint on a greasey surface you'll end up having fish eyes all over your paint job, instead of buying a load of degreaser you can use lighter fluid but not the real stuff, the cheap swan stuff is what i use and also get tack rags for after youve sanded and degreased the surface because it will get rid of all the dust particles off the car!

hope this helped..

twokexlv6coupe
04-20-2008, 07:04 PM
why dont you get your fiancee to do it for ya?? :confused:

hojemwod
04-20-2008, 07:12 PM
a good idea is to go to the auto parts store and check out the body work supply section and look at all the different painting chemicals and supplys there are

Si Speed
04-20-2008, 08:00 PM
why dont you get your fiancee to do it for ya?? :confused:

We actually are already making plans to do it together. :wink:

twokexlv6coupe
04-20-2008, 08:05 PM
word. a joint collaboration :thumb:

yogi_pahl
04-20-2008, 08:39 PM
new paint and bumpers woooot. what colorer you getting?

thomas97
04-20-2008, 10:00 PM
look E,
i know you thought you saw orange peel on my bumper and you scared the **** outta me so me and pops went out there and looked at it, we did a good job for a dusty ex-construction site garage.

1. A good recommendation is 150 grit the whole thing, ether it be by hand, long block, or jitter bug [slow as hell]

2. After you have 150 girtted it, get a pre paint, body work prep, i had one called "Total Prep" its a cleaning solvent much like alcohol that you spray on and it gets the particles off.

3. after a clean surface DONT TOUCH IT! bondo what you need to bondo, then wait for it to dry as following the instructions, THEN sand and clean it again.

4. Primer goes on, dont cheap out on your primer is you have any intent of having a decent paint job, as a matter of a fact, if your going to cheap out at all just dont do it, im sure steph can back me up here.

5. after primer fix your bondo again if you fuxxed up

6. reprime if need be OR wet sand your primer

7. after primer is done being wet sanded wipe off that dust/water stuff and then use the cleaning solvent again, Then begin to mix your color

8. Spray the clor and depending on paint Spray your clear about 20-30 minuets after if you need to run through the process practice it, its a timed event at this stage

9. after spraying let is sit for a day over night, the next day with 1000 grit sand paper make your clear coat un-[retty by sanded down the imperfections,

10. use buffing compund and a buffing wheel to buff out the scratches

thats basically it, i can tell you right now youll need al of this:

150 grit +/-
800 grit +/-
1000 grit +/-
Lacquer thinner
spray cleaning solvent ( not windex etc.)
primer filler w/ activator
base color w/ activator
clear coat w/ activator
pressure filter regulator
note- you need this to keep the water that the compressor naturally makes out of your paint
large sized compressor
bondo
glazing compound
paint gun
buffing wheel
buffing compound

i recommend just bondoing the holes broski unless its really bad
sand the rust out good and than just fill in what is gone with the bondo or something else.

phew, if you had followed alogn with my prgress thread you would have noticed the minuet things

oh and you want to spray your paint at around 45 psi if you feel the compressor drop down in pressure let it build up again, dont rush take you time and YES YOUR WILL MESS UP
IT WONT BE PERFECt
but have fun
laugh about it
and fix it because when the clears down you can sand it and fix her up good, keep an eye on mine, youll see, stephs good at this and if she comes to help then youll be in good hands, took care of young grasshoppa, yeah i called you hoppa, BECAUSE you can be called a noob because you thought my messsy clear (which will be buffed) was orange peeled

haha goodluck E

*sniff-sniff* yep i smell rep for the young lude

2.2Lude
04-20-2008, 11:03 PM
damn right you smell rep good chit Tim

99PreludeSh
04-21-2008, 01:50 AM
For The Love Of Christ Noooooooooooooo Bondo!

hojemwod
04-21-2008, 10:01 AM
look E,
i know you thought you saw orange peel on my bumper and you scared the **** outta me so me and pops went out there and looked at it, we did a good job for a dusty ex-construction site garage.

1. A good recommendation is 150 grit the whole thing, ether it be by hand, long block, or jitter bug [slow as hell]

2. After you have 150 girtted it, get a pre paint, body work prep, i had one called "Total Prep" its a cleaning solvent much like alcohol that you spray on and it gets the particles off.

3. after a clean surface DONT TOUCH IT! bondo what you need to bondo, then wait for it to dry as following the instructions, THEN sand and clean it again.

4. Primer goes on, dont cheap out on your primer is you have any intent of having a decent paint job, as a matter of a fact, if your going to cheap out at all just dont do it, im sure steph can back me up here.

5. after primer fix your bondo again if you fuxxed up

6. reprime if need be OR wet sand your primer

7. after primer is done being wet sanded wipe off that dust/water stuff and then use the cleaning solvent again, Then begin to mix your color

8. Spray the clor and depending on paint Spray your clear about 20-30 minuets after if you need to run through the process practice it, its a timed event at this stage

9. after spraying let is sit for a day over night, the next day with 1000 grit sand paper make your clear coat un-[retty by sanded down the imperfections,

10. use buffing compund and a buffing wheel to buff out the scratches

thats basically it, i can tell you right now youll need al of this:

150 grit +/-
800 grit +/-
1000 grit +/-
Lacquer thinner
spray cleaning solvent ( not windex etc.)
primer filler w/ activator
base color w/ activator
clear coat w/ activator
pressure filter regulator
note- you need this to keep the water that the compressor naturally makes out of your paint
large sized compressor
bondo
glazing compound
paint gun
buffing wheel
buffing compound

i recommend just bondoing the holes broski unless its really bad
sand the rust out good and than just fill in what is gone with the bondo or something else.

phew, if you had followed alogn with my prgress thread you would have noticed the minuet things

oh and you want to spray your paint at around 45 psi if you feel the compressor drop down in pressure let it build up again, dont rush take you time and YES YOUR WILL MESS UP
IT WONT BE PERFECt
but have fun
laugh about it
and fix it because when the clears down you can sand it and fix her up good, keep an eye on mine, youll see, stephs good at this and if she comes to help then youll be in good hands, took care of young grasshoppa, yeah i called you hoppa, BECAUSE you can be called a noob because you thought my messsy clear (which will be buffed) was orange peeled

haha goodluck E

*sniff-sniff* yep i smell rep for the young lude

Put this in the DIY section this is good!

For The Love Of Christ Noooooooooooooo Bondo!

sometimes its gotta be done

99PreludeSh
04-21-2008, 12:22 PM
sometimes its gotta be done


ORRR you could spend an extra $5 and buy the good stuff

Si Speed
04-21-2008, 03:22 PM
ORRR you could spend an extra $5 and buy the good stuff

http://www.icmag.com/gallery/data/500/62912006_062906_cured0005.JPG

thomas97
04-21-2008, 04:43 PM
E i dont understand why you think youll need three cots,

youll need one coat of primer
one-2 coats of color
2 MEDIUM coats of clear

99PreludeSh
04-21-2008, 04:49 PM
If you are going to block the primer down you need more than one coat of it so you dont break through when you do wet and.

I would do no less than 2 on the color. One for color coverage and 2 to make sure you have full coverage. SOmetimes even a 3rd if its a red cause those are more transparent to spray but hes going black so he doesnt have to worry

Clear is really preference. I normally do 1 medium coat of clear another heavy coat of clear WITHOUT RUNNING IT and a 3rd mist coat for it all to lay out nice.

thomas97
04-21-2008, 06:41 PM
yeah we did a medium then a HEAVYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY as balls coat, minimum runnage if any

twokexlv6coupe
04-21-2008, 06:48 PM
steph - why you keep helping him??
thought you were doing it together!! :tongue:

thomas97
04-21-2008, 08:23 PM
lol E doesnt even post in the thread anymore

twokexlv6coupe
04-21-2008, 10:23 PM
regardless, this is still some very valuable info for anyone else willing to DIY paintjob!

thomas97
04-21-2008, 10:36 PM
im pretty sure you guys could fire away any question you have about painting and me and steph would be all over it.

when you go to the paint store, if you dont have a specific color you want, for example, "i was red, i dont care, make it bright" then you wont need anything, but i learned that 97 and lower had something called a vindicator where they needed my vin code to see what paint was sprayed, they told me all paints 97 and older had this, might eb some helpful info if your gonna go get some paint, always if you can, bring the car your painting with, the guys at paint shops are always super cool and always willing to help you out, take a look at your car and give you tips and pointers

E you asked about a price?
unless steph brings a boatload of goodies for you to borrow, you price, including tools, and the paint i figure it could get up to 800 bucks, im not really sure on prices, we get all our tools for free because my grandfather owned his own shop that did everything back n the day and he got to keep the tools,

write down a shopping list and go well... shopping!
i recomend a top loader style spray gun if you can because i assume your not going to take all off the fenders and bumpers off and hang them to spray them, get a top loader and your paint will come out a bit nicer.

remember to hold the hose near you so you dont screw up that paint that way, if you hold it about 2-3 feet down your hose will never hit the car and therefr no redoing of paint.

haha thanks for the rep guys, i think i went from 44 to 182 in the span of the time this thread has been open :biggrin:

99PreludeSh
04-21-2008, 10:50 PM
as for gun i recommend and HVLP(high volume low pressure) it atomizes much better than a gravity feed.

I personally lobe the IWATA LPH400 even though its almost $600 its well worth ever penny of it.

And paint like I said in the IM yesterday go with NASON, its good durable paint and comes out nicely. Alot of it looking nice is all on the sprayer. Also Nason clear lays down super nice.

Irish Luder
04-22-2008, 12:46 PM
as for gun i recommend and HVLP(high volume low pressure) it atomizes much better than a gravity feed.

I personally lobe the IWATA LPH400 even though its almost $600 its well worth ever penny of it.

And paint like I said in the IM yesterday go with NASON, its good durable paint and comes out nicely. Alot of it looking nice is all on the sprayer. Also Nason clear lays down super nice.

i know HVLP is way better because there is less overspray, you need less paint etc. but you need a massive compressor to run it dont you?

ImPorTuNeRdJ
04-22-2008, 12:57 PM
E..get a bright mf green then roll into the ATL...and get a mcd decal all over your car...you'll be str8 up pimpinnnn

99PreludeSh
04-22-2008, 03:00 PM
i know HVLP is way better because there is less overspray, you need less paint etc. but you need a massive compressor to run it dont you?

Not necessarily you just need to be able to have about 25 psi to the tip of the gun.

twokexlv6coupe
04-22-2008, 04:33 PM
i'll give you 25psi at the tip of something else :wink:

Si Speed
04-22-2008, 04:48 PM
i'll give you 25psi at the tip of something else :wink:

I'll give you 250psi of my foot up your ass.

twokexlv6coupe
04-22-2008, 05:02 PM
thanks red foreman :tongue:

thomas97
04-24-2008, 10:35 PM
lol, that show is great!