Infinity 6"x9" Kappa install for 5th gen

[xiayu]

So I bought some Infinity Kappa 6"x9"s and went to install them last night. What a nightmare. I could get 3 holes to line up but not all 4 and I absolutely hate the speaker grill and mounting setup. Without modification it prevents me from using the awesome looking, but ridiculously inefficient speaker grills that came with the Infinity speakers. Also the built in amp couldn't cut it. I was expecting more from it since the stock speakers are pretty loud but those stock 6"x9" are 20 watt RMS paper cone speakers. The Kappas are 110 RMS with about 300-330 watt peak. I already have an amp to push them but was thinking I could wait on installing it for a while. I'm going to have to do it sooner than later in this case. Anyways these speakers are punchy and the rear window brake light rattled, as did the stock speaker grills believe it or not. And this was not at paticularly high db levels, since the amp couldn't push any higher without distorting. I might be putting up a walk-though on how to create a custom, or modify the rear window dash to install after market speaker and elliminate rattle from bass.

By the way has anyone else experienced issues with rattling from their rear section after installing more bass, i.e. subwoofer or aftermarket 6"x9"?

[Oceanborn]

Actually, yeah. I've been meaning to get back there and figure out whats rattling. Certain low pitches are causing something to rattle, but I couldn't figure out what. And weird about them not kicking very much... I'm running Fusion 6X9"s in the back with only stock harness. My headunit has a built in 220 Watt amp, but still, they are rated to peak around 300... Either way, they punch pretty hard.

[NightRacer]

Man ya'll gonna have to teach me about the speakers and bass setups. that is something that i am lost in. I would like to learn more before wasting money.

[xiayu]

Actually, yeah. I've been meaning to get back there and figure out whats rattling. Certain low pitches are causing something to rattle, but I couldn't figure out what. And weird about them not kicking very much... I'm running Fusion 6X9"s in the back with only stock harness. My headunit has a built in 220 Watt amp, but still, they are rated to peak around 300... Either way, they punch pretty hard.

Well according to http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products.php?region=3&action=view&product_id=64 they're 300 watts max at 4 ohms and they don't even list the RMS. The Infinity Kappas are 310 watts max (110 Watts RMS) at 2 ohms. The math for your fusion speakers at 2 ohms would be roughly 150 watts and that's just max. It's really questionable to not post your RMS because RMS is how much wattage you're actually using. Like your 220 watts deck is more like 21 watts RMS times four, so 82 watts. Posting peak wattage is a marketing ploy, kind of like saying a harddrive is 500 gigabytes when it's actually 465.66 gigabytes. That's a pretty big descrepency if you think about it, and when it comes to posting peak wattage instead of RMS you're talking an even bigger one. The harddrive is a lie resulting in about %6 less than advertised but max wattage results in less than %50 of what is advertised really. Add that to the fact that these Fusion speakers were rated at 4 ohms and you're looking at a little more than 50 watts RMS maybe. The stock speakers are 20 watts RMS at 2 ohms so comparable that's 40 watts RMS to 50 watts RMS. You wouldn't notice to much of a difference. That's at 4 ohms. By the way has anyone noticed that the stock amp is a stereo to mono channel? When I pan rear left to right it get's quieter but both speakers are clearly playing. Seems like it's mono to me.

Man ya'll gonna have to teach me about the speakers and bass setups. that is something that i am lost in. I would like to learn more before wasting money.

I would gladly exchange audio work for a mechanic, lol!

[Brash22]

xiayu, you running the stock deck mate? If you are, that's half the problem. There is an active acoustic feedback system (apparantly) within the stock setup, which makes any changes with the stock deck not be as good as you'd think.

Yes, I have huge amounts of rattle on my rear parcel shelf, as well as all my rear panels, but I have a trio of subs running at 2Ohms on 600WRMS :headbang:

Why not just run with the three bolts for now, then put the stock grille back in? It also stops would be thieves from realising that there's extra fruit with this car

[xiayu]

xiayu, you running the stock deck mate? If you are, that's half the problem. There is an active acoustic feedback system (apparantly) within the stock setup, which makes any changes with the stock deck not be as good as you'd think.

Yes, I have huge amounts of rattle on my rear parcel shelf, as well as all my rear panels, but I have a trio of subs running at 2Ohms on 600WRMS :headbang:

Why not just run with the three bolts for now, then put the stock grille back in? It also stops would be thieves from realising that there's extra fruit with this car

No stock deck, my system was of course immediately louder when I got a aftermarket deck, and it was a must since I use an ipod. Yes you're right about thieves. The stock grills rattle though otherwise I might keep them. I took off the grills for the time being and the rear window brake light and no more rattle. Like I said this is going to be a mod project with a walk-through for everyone who's interested. Oh and it's still in with 3 bolts so that wasn't the problem, though when played at a descent db I'm sure it will become one.

[Brash22]

If you're planning on running them off an amp then having one corner free could cause issues. But by that stage if you can hear the difference then you must have pretty good ears.

[OEM~KaOs]

There is a little plastic clip that hangs down in the dead center of the opening when you pull the backseats down. I don't really know how to describe it other then that, but when i have my sub pointing in towards me that thing rattles like a b**** Also, I installed Alpine Type-R 6 x 9's in my car and when i installed the "grill cover" they sent with the speakers i had to cut some of the carpet and cardboard away so the grill would sit right. After that i still had a horrible rattle so i put down some carpeting so the plastic wasn't hitting the metal underneath the plastic cover and *presto* no more rattle.

[nevrdun]

For those getting rattle from your grills try getting some thin foam that has a medium density and sticky on one side. Something that will squish flat with little pressure. Put a small peice over the hole where the grill clips in. Pop your grill back in and you should be pretty rattle free from your stock grills.

Colin-you might just need more foam :wink:

Speaker power ratings are really just a bunch of hooey. The amount of power a speaker can handle is directly proportional to the amount of distortion they are receiving and the type of music being listened to. If you are listing to very dynamic music and have a pair of quailty speakers you can throw some rediculous power to them because they will not heat up as much and thermally fail. If your running a hugely clipped signal at a lower than rated wattage they will fail as well. Im going to be running a legit 400w amp to the tweets and 600w amp to the woofers of my Boston SPZs. 1000w is far over any kind of rating rms or max. The reason for this no the fact that the amps will not be pushed into high rail voltages which results in loss of sound quality at high volumes.

Also a speaker that has a lower wattage rating is probably going to sound better because they are generally going to be more efficient. Take a 150 watts and put it to a sub that is rated for 300w and then put it to a sub that is rated for 150. The lower wattage will sound better. However, put 300w to each and the one rated for 150 still may sound better given they both have a nice clean signal.

Just a little info for the people wanting to learn more. And incase people were lost above. 99% of your speakers out there are 4 ohms which is what most headunits and amps are rated at. Also, find amps that are CEA-2006. Not only are those pretty legit ratings, sh!tty companies dont usually use these ratings. They dont use ILS ratings (If Lightning Strikes) :wink: