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View Full Version : How to replace your radiator.


mnludedude
02-25-2008, 06:37 PM
I just replaced my radiator on my 97 SH and wanted to share my experience in case it could make the job easier for someone else. Sorry I don't have any pics.

Tools you'll need:

10 and 12mm sockets,
Pliers to compress clamps
Small and larger size flat head screw driver.
Gasket sealer for thermostat.

Parts:
-2 Gallons of Honda Coolant (or Non-Silicate, phosphate free coolant. Could switch to dex cool, but would need to completely flush system)
-4 hose clamps for the radiator hoses.
-4 hose clamps for ATTS or Auto Tranny Cooler lines
-Upper Radiator Hose (I was going to get OEM ones, but the price is about $50 for the pair, autozone had them for about $18.)
-Lower Radiator Hose
-Thermostat and Gasket (Could not find the right one, 1998 was close, might have to go OEM here.)
-New Radiator (I used a Koyo OEM replacement)

1) Drain the coolant. Open the little white valve on the bottom center of the radiator. If your car is cool open the radiator cap to speed the draining. About 1 gallon came out of mine.
2) Remove the upper radiator hose.
3) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines, right below the distributor. If you have an SH or automatic you will find these lines, on stock 5spd you will not. With a base 5spd, just leave the cooler lines capped, I think they give the same radiator to everyone.
4) Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the block. The side on the radiator is near impossible to get to. You will need to remove the intake tube to get to it.
5) Remove radiator mounting screws and bracket on the AC line.
6) Disconnect the fan wires, one on the left and one on the right. It is helpful to remove the battery to get to the one on the passenger side.
7) There is a small wiring harness attached to the driver’s side fan. Use a small flat head screwdriver to push in the clip, it should just slide off.
8) Now that the radiator is free from the car, pull it up and out, maneuvering the lower hose and tranny cooling lines around the AC hose.
9) Run some water through the radiator with a hose, in case there is anything in there. Ideally you would rinse it out with some DI or distilled water.
10) Now transfer all the bits over to the new radiator. You may want to hose down the bottom bolts with pb blaster. Mine where nicely rusted. Lay the two radiators side by side and move everything over.
11) Now reconnect everything. I put in new upper and lower hoses and bought new clamps for the radiator and tranny lines. I hate those spring loaded ones.
12) This is a good time to do your thermostat. Coolant will uncontrollably spill out when you remove the two bolts from the housing. Unfortunately I couldn’t find a replacement. Every place I went gave me one that was too small. One pot of hot water and a meat thermometer told me mine was working right according to the service manual. So I reinstalled it with a little bit of gasket sealer.
13) Give your overflow tank a good cleaning while your at it
14) Refill the radiator and fire up the car, with the heat lever all the way on hot.
15) My car started doing the weirdest damn thing, the idle went up and down between about 1500-2500 rpm’s as I added coolant, I kept filling it and it stopped. Some forum posts say this is normal, something about the IACV. I let it warm up with the cap off to get the air bubbles out.
16) Put the cap on and fill up your over flow about half way to the mark.
17) Keep an eye on the coolant and check for leaks. I had to tighten the clamps a little more for a good seal.

On a side note I should check my ATTS level, barely any fluid came out so I didn't bother. I am going to drain and fill it next weekend.

Good luck.

HondaNeedsBoost
02-25-2008, 07:10 PM
when i did mine it took maybe an hour or so...how long did it take u?

Si Speed
02-25-2008, 07:13 PM
It took me about an hour when I did mine as well.

Good write-up man. I don't even need pictures, you painted those images for me. Well done!

mnludedude
02-25-2008, 07:42 PM
It took me about 2 hours, I had to deal with the ATTS lines and rust though. With a base 5spd it would be faster. I'm sure I could do it in under an hour now that I know how it goes together.

mnludedude
02-26-2008, 09:21 PM
I keep having issues with the radiator hoses leaking. I'm not sure why, I thought I tightened them plenty to start with. I was also somewhat afraid of breaking the plastic fittings on the radiator. I tightened them up some more tonight and ran the car for a bit and didn't see any leaks.

I found this:

http://www.ultimategarage.com/abaprice.html

It lists 45-60 in/lbs for the torque on the clamp. That is about 4-5 ft/lbs.

Rechecking my clamps, they are at this torque now. Live, search and learn.

mnludedude
02-28-2008, 08:40 PM
More research brings me to this sight.

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1020

Apparently what happens is the rubber hose compresses under the clamp when everything gets hot. Then when things shrink the constant size hose clamp becomes loose because the rubber hose stays compressed some what. I think after a few heat cycles I should be able to tighten the clamps to the point that they won't leak. Had I understood the issue I probably (and still might) use constant tension clamps (like factory). Also the link above has a new type of polymer clamp that looks very promising.

mr_y82
07-28-2008, 12:22 AM
I've got the koyo 2 row Al in my 4th and we had to trim one of the stock fans a hair.