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View Full Version : 10" Sub in 6x9


2.2Lude
11-20-2007, 04:59 PM
I've heard of people fitting 10" subs into 6x9 slots like the one in the rear of the 4th gen...im not exactly sure if the other gen it too...but have you guys heard anything about this?

If not then i was wondering are there 6x9 subs not just speakers that get get by-passed or something like that

thanks for any input.

nevrdun
11-22-2007, 02:39 AM
Ive heard of and done such thing. Meh... I wouldn't waste the time. A nice box in the trunk is great. Remove the 6x9s if your not concerned with "filling up the cabin with sound" (pfff!!!) and it will help get your air get into the cabin and out of the trunk and allow sounds waves to develope a little better.

genxx
11-22-2007, 09:24 AM
What you are referring to is IB or Infinite baffle. It works very well, many of the top SQ comp guys run IB. I run IB in my comp car. However, some subs are more suited to run IB. The specs you want to look for in a sub to run IB is a low Fs and Qts. Because of the low fs and lower q driver has a flatter response once you add in cabin gain. IB can be a pain to pull off and some times requires a little more knoweldge. You must block of the rear wave from the front wave. On the rear deck this means you must seal off all the holes. You will also need to seal the cabin from the trunk. That is the least techical way I can explain it.

I would so go for it. IB rocks but generally is not going to have the capability to get as loud. It will be more transparent and have a better transient response. So it depends on what you are wanting to do.

I hope I do not loose you on the explination of this. If so let me know and I will try and explian it a different way.

If you want loud then do either a sealed or ported enclosure. Face the sub to the rear of the car toward the trunk this has been proven to be the optimal firing position for a trunk.

We can get all off into small sealed vs. large sealed ect. and the effects. I think you get the idea though.

nevrdun
11-22-2007, 11:27 AM
So you seem knowledgeable as well and you brought up small vs large enclosures. Whats your take? Ive seen very different results but it was also with different speakers so no basis for comparsion.

genxx
11-22-2007, 01:13 PM
It depends on sub some and depends on if you are looking to achieve the magical QTC.707, which many think is the optimal air space. People have had very good luck with sticking with the .707 and having a perfect integrated sub to midbass transparency. I am going to try this in my truck and see if it works out. Some subs are designed for a small box. Problem with small sealed is you decrease the efficiency so you need more power on tap. Generally small sealed will start to roll off earlier that a larger sealed box. Larger sealed box requires less power to achieve the same amount of xmax and will roll of at a lower octave. This is pretty generalized statement without looking at 2 subs, knowing the specs and it never hurts to have a box building program handy.

However, trial and error from users is generally the best place to start looking. Even though a box building program is a great tool they are not always perfect. Some can account for cabin gain and some cannot.

For SQ I have ran .75 to 1 cuft. sealed for a 12" and had very good results. I was using the same 12" for both. I have also ran this same sub in ported with very good results. I felt both sealed and ported I achieved the goal of transparent with good transient response and not boomy.

The Prelude is still being built but it will be IB. I ran IB in the past also and for SQ and the best sub to midbass integration IB IMO it is the best. It is the hardest to do though. It is turning into a PITA to seal the cabin and trunk off on the lude but I think I am close to completely sealed back wave from front wave.

An example on the QTC .707 the DIYMA 12" is designed to be placed in a .5 cuft sealed enclosure achieving a perfect QTC .707. This sub can get pretty loud but is designed to provide the ultimate in response and front stage integration. Trade off is the delicate cone. A TC OEM 10" has a recommended enclosure of .75 to 1 cuft and is designed to get loud and sound good doing it. Something like a JL W6, W7 or TC 1000 will get damn loud and keep there composure. So back to what the sub is designed to do we go back to and the TS Parameters.

If you have a specific question I did not hit let me know. I am no expert but I will do my best to answer it. If I cannot answer it I can usually find the answer or at least I will try.

2.2Lude
11-22-2007, 02:28 PM
Thanks for the input guys although all i pretty much picked up out of it was use a box and take out the 6x9 to fill the cabin w/ sound.lol sorry im no where near as knowledgeable as you guys , but again thanks guys

nevrdun
11-23-2007, 12:15 AM
Ha! No prob man.

So yeah anyway I took the 6x9s out and I built a box for 2 10w3v3s that was right around 1.5 net worked awesome sits flush with the strut towers and looks great. Real tight drums and bass guitar not changes but still hits lows pretty well. On "real" music at a reasonable volume it is real nice and trasparent, blends with the sound stage well but on rap and such its pretty obvious its a boom box in the trunk thats cranked up real high ;) I think some serious sound deadening will help out leaps and bounds. Every week on my day off I say alright im going to the shop to tear the car apart....and every week my day off flies by. :(

JOSE_LUDE
11-23-2007, 03:29 AM
Hey can u take some pics. I finally fitted my Pioneers 6x9s on the back had to take the springs thing off and it’s kind of hard to pull the trunk up (its heavier then I thought) I wanna do that gas strut trunk mod in my 4gen do any body know if ill work as well? But any how do u think if I put a 6x9 in the middle like the gdm prelude and a little amp with it, it will bump just a little??

nevrdun
11-23-2007, 10:15 AM
Well yeah you will get a little bass out of it. You'd want to cross it over or it would just be a really loud speker that wouldn't blend in very well. If you got something with a huge motor structure like a JL VR 690 yoiu could get some decent bass but nothing like a 10 in an enclosure.

genxx
11-23-2007, 11:10 AM
Only way to get any bump out of a 6x9. It to do a 6x9 sub, TangBand makes some and if you can find them CDT let a bunch of not released one's go on ebay. I bought a set of the CDT they are monsters for a 6x9. They use a very tall high roll surround though so could be clearance issues with a grill not sure. Have not tried to put them in the stock lude location.

Only other ones that I have heard that have some balls are the RF Power. Have not messed with the JL so they maybe along the same lines as the RF.

The CDT ones kill the RF ones on the bass region though. None of the 6x9 subs though are a 2way or anything if thats what you wanted. Also what you want to look for is the xmax. The TB has 7mm of xmax the CDT is 12.5mm of xmax.

Here is a link to the TangBands you can get a pair for about $100 shipped. There are tons of reviews of these on the caraudio forums and they are highly regarded. You do need a good 150w-200w amp on these though.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-837

These 6x9 subs will give some bump but nothing compared to even a properly set-up pair of 8" subs and nothing close to a pair of 10".