bboi_xtc
06-15-2007, 02:30 PM
This write up is for those with the 92-93 console and wish to convert it to the 94-96 console without changing the ebrake cables.
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage to your vehicle or failure of your e-brake during or after this write up. Do this at your own risk. I have to give most of the credit to Dark_rican (lou) for the hazard switch rewire and Mike Dubois whom I contacted on ebay originally for the ebrake wire extention via the turnbuckle.
I have done this in 4 cars so far and mine has been done over 3 months ago. I use my e-brake regularly and have had no problems. Rich045 is one of the users who I have done this for and can vouch for me.
Materials needed (all obtainable at home depot in building materials isle):
1" wide and 1/4" thick steel bar
(4) 1" long Thickest 3/8 drive self tapping screws for sheetmetal (must have self screwing tip on end)
(4) 1 1/2" long thickest 3/8 drive self tapping screws for sheetmetal
Washers (must have self screwing tip on end)
Turnbuckle two for workout equipment (self packaged and seperate from the turnbuckles in the boxes) Has a full loop on each end.
Red permanent threadlocker (paint materials isle)
(3) 10mm or 8mm Machined bolts 1" or 1 1/2" thick with matching nuts and washers
Sharpie marker for marking
All bots, washers, and nuts must be machined and for sheetmetal. If they are for wood or plastic they will snap.
http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/4388/2904573570067948086S500x500Q85.jpg
Obviously you will also need the 94-96 Ebrake and console. No 94-96 ebrake cables are required.
Tools Needed:
Full Ratchet set
Flat Head screw driver
Dremel with cutting bit (optional)
A power drill
Latex gloves (so threadlocker does not get on your hands)
Wrench or plyers
Hammer
Vice (recommended)
Time:
1 1/2hrs give or take depending on skill
1) First park your car on level ground with your car in Park, or in 1st and put bricks behind the tires so your car does not move when removing the ebrake.
2) Remove your center console and disconnect the wire to your hazard switch. (rewire is below)
I've had both of these in my car before doing this conversion so here are the screw locations for those with trouble:
If you have a 93 Console, the screws are located here:
http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/5890/2432493380067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
same screws on each side.
For those who are confused as to which console you have: this is my old 93 Console w/ rare attachment:
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/775/37293576sc2.jpg
If you have a 92 console, the screws are located here:
http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/2215/2797967750067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
for those who are confused, this is a 92 console:
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3928/251rt0.jpg
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/3704/371fo4.jpg
For a 92 you will have to remove the rear seats to take out the console,
To remove the seat, underneath the part that you sit on, there are two tabs, pull on them and you can remove the seat:
http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/5157/2379982710067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
(back when I had leather interior)
3)Once the ebrake is exposed, Unbolt the two bolts that are holding the ebrake handle down. and turn the bolt holding the ebrake to the cables counter clockwise to detatch the ebrake cables from the ebrake:
http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/6295/2308654610067948086S600x600Q85.jpg
4) Once the ebrake is out of place, you now need to take that steel bar and cut it to two pieces. (You will use these like platforms for the ebrake to rest on since the ebrake does not sit flush with the tunnel. I did not write down the exact measurements, but here is a picture for reference:
http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/5890/2147616600067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
this is for the lower bolt of the ebrake. DO NOT BOLT ANYTHING YET.
You will need first need to put the 94-96 ebrake in it's location, and then put the console over it to make sure you put the ebrake in the right location. through the cupholder hole, mark it with the sharpie.
5)Once marked, cut the metal bar to these sizes: pics for reference:
http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/6422/2441876030067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
6)After you have cut the pieces, you will need to bend the longer bar slightly (the one closer to the front of the car) using a vice and a hammer. You can see the slight bend in the picture.
http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/5628/2988217060067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
If you do not bend it, the ebrake will sit too high. You will also need to hammer down that part of the tunnel slightly to accommodate for the bent bar.
You will need to bend the shorter bar (bar closer to the rear of the car) except you will not need to bend the tunnel downward.
5) Using the sharpie marker, mark the three holes in the rear metal bar to secure the ebrake handle to the car as pictured. Always double check the alignment of where you choose to mount the ebrake handle by placing the console over the ebrake and putting it into place.
When ready, use the 1in self tapping screw on the middle hole of the rear bar to secure the bar to the car. Using the permanent threadlocker of course. With the bolt in the middle, you can freely move the bar so that you can adjust it tightly. Once you are sure where the rear of the ebrake handle is supposed to go, bolt it down with the 1 1/2in self tapping screw with threadlocker. Then use another 1in self tapping screw on the end of the bar.
5a) You will need to do the same with the frontal part of the ebrake handle. Before you do this lightly connect the ebrake cables this way:
http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/7007/2611081220067948086S500x500Q85.jpg
First, this is the type of turnbuckle you will need:
http://inlinethumb26.webshots.com/7257/2149336460067948086S500x500Q85.jpg
If you are shopping in Home Depot, there will be a section of turnbuckles in boxes. Stay away from those (they are not made to handle weight and stress). The one you need is self packaged in the same isle. Usually hanging on a peg hook.
Using the 10mm bolts, washers, and nuts, LIGHTLY connect the ebrake cable via this way:
http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/6807/2116886270067948086S600x600Q85.jpg
Finished attachment should look like this:
http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/6432/2376238870067948086S600x600Q85.jpg
6) For the frontal bar, I used 3 bolts to hold the ebrake in place to the car and 1 bolt for the actual ebrake. First attach the ebrake to the bar with a 1 1/2" non self tapping bolt, 2 washers and a matching nut. Then use two 1 1/2 in self tapping screws with threadlocker. Finally on the farthest hole closest to the passenger side that you should have made to match the hole already in the car, use threadlocker with a matching 10mm 1-1/2in bolt. Make sure you use threadlocker on all the bolts you use.
Of course while doing this, you should have been making sure the ebrake lines up with the console so you are not bolting the ebrake in the wrong place. Remember this takes a lot of patience. Use the sharpie marker to mark the correct places for holes.
http://inlinethumb43.webshots.com/4714/2460751500067948086S500x500Q85.jpg
After the ebrake is bolted down and tight, give it a few minutes or however long you are supposed to wait for the threadlocker to dry.
7) Tighten the ebrake cable so that after 6 clicks your car is stopped. and less if you would like.
Hazard Switch rewire (credit to Lou aka dark_rican):
original 92-93 hazard switch harness:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e71/dark_rican13/Prelude%20Parts/Hazard92.jpg
1) Pop open the "pin door" use a paper clip and push it into the holes to pop out each cable. This will prevent you from cutting, soldering and taping (MUCH EASIER).
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e71/dark_rican13/Prelude%20Parts/HazardPins1.jpg
It should be rewired to (94-96):
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e71/dark_rican13/Prelude%20Parts/Hazard94.jpg
Finished product:
http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/4204/picture008cx5.jpg
94-96 Console with leather lid:
http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/71/picture010zc3.jpg
**will post more pix later.
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage to your vehicle or failure of your e-brake during or after this write up. Do this at your own risk. I have to give most of the credit to Dark_rican (lou) for the hazard switch rewire and Mike Dubois whom I contacted on ebay originally for the ebrake wire extention via the turnbuckle.
I have done this in 4 cars so far and mine has been done over 3 months ago. I use my e-brake regularly and have had no problems. Rich045 is one of the users who I have done this for and can vouch for me.
Materials needed (all obtainable at home depot in building materials isle):
1" wide and 1/4" thick steel bar
(4) 1" long Thickest 3/8 drive self tapping screws for sheetmetal (must have self screwing tip on end)
(4) 1 1/2" long thickest 3/8 drive self tapping screws for sheetmetal
Washers (must have self screwing tip on end)
Turnbuckle two for workout equipment (self packaged and seperate from the turnbuckles in the boxes) Has a full loop on each end.
Red permanent threadlocker (paint materials isle)
(3) 10mm or 8mm Machined bolts 1" or 1 1/2" thick with matching nuts and washers
Sharpie marker for marking
All bots, washers, and nuts must be machined and for sheetmetal. If they are for wood or plastic they will snap.
http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/4388/2904573570067948086S500x500Q85.jpg
Obviously you will also need the 94-96 Ebrake and console. No 94-96 ebrake cables are required.
Tools Needed:
Full Ratchet set
Flat Head screw driver
Dremel with cutting bit (optional)
A power drill
Latex gloves (so threadlocker does not get on your hands)
Wrench or plyers
Hammer
Vice (recommended)
Time:
1 1/2hrs give or take depending on skill
1) First park your car on level ground with your car in Park, or in 1st and put bricks behind the tires so your car does not move when removing the ebrake.
2) Remove your center console and disconnect the wire to your hazard switch. (rewire is below)
I've had both of these in my car before doing this conversion so here are the screw locations for those with trouble:
If you have a 93 Console, the screws are located here:
http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/5890/2432493380067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
same screws on each side.
For those who are confused as to which console you have: this is my old 93 Console w/ rare attachment:
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/775/37293576sc2.jpg
If you have a 92 console, the screws are located here:
http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/2215/2797967750067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
for those who are confused, this is a 92 console:
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3928/251rt0.jpg
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/3704/371fo4.jpg
For a 92 you will have to remove the rear seats to take out the console,
To remove the seat, underneath the part that you sit on, there are two tabs, pull on them and you can remove the seat:
http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/5157/2379982710067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
(back when I had leather interior)
3)Once the ebrake is exposed, Unbolt the two bolts that are holding the ebrake handle down. and turn the bolt holding the ebrake to the cables counter clockwise to detatch the ebrake cables from the ebrake:
http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/6295/2308654610067948086S600x600Q85.jpg
4) Once the ebrake is out of place, you now need to take that steel bar and cut it to two pieces. (You will use these like platforms for the ebrake to rest on since the ebrake does not sit flush with the tunnel. I did not write down the exact measurements, but here is a picture for reference:
http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/5890/2147616600067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
this is for the lower bolt of the ebrake. DO NOT BOLT ANYTHING YET.
You will need first need to put the 94-96 ebrake in it's location, and then put the console over it to make sure you put the ebrake in the right location. through the cupholder hole, mark it with the sharpie.
5)Once marked, cut the metal bar to these sizes: pics for reference:
http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/6422/2441876030067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
6)After you have cut the pieces, you will need to bend the longer bar slightly (the one closer to the front of the car) using a vice and a hammer. You can see the slight bend in the picture.
http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/5628/2988217060067948086S425x425Q85.jpg
If you do not bend it, the ebrake will sit too high. You will also need to hammer down that part of the tunnel slightly to accommodate for the bent bar.
You will need to bend the shorter bar (bar closer to the rear of the car) except you will not need to bend the tunnel downward.
5) Using the sharpie marker, mark the three holes in the rear metal bar to secure the ebrake handle to the car as pictured. Always double check the alignment of where you choose to mount the ebrake handle by placing the console over the ebrake and putting it into place.
When ready, use the 1in self tapping screw on the middle hole of the rear bar to secure the bar to the car. Using the permanent threadlocker of course. With the bolt in the middle, you can freely move the bar so that you can adjust it tightly. Once you are sure where the rear of the ebrake handle is supposed to go, bolt it down with the 1 1/2in self tapping screw with threadlocker. Then use another 1in self tapping screw on the end of the bar.
5a) You will need to do the same with the frontal part of the ebrake handle. Before you do this lightly connect the ebrake cables this way:
http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/7007/2611081220067948086S500x500Q85.jpg
First, this is the type of turnbuckle you will need:
http://inlinethumb26.webshots.com/7257/2149336460067948086S500x500Q85.jpg
If you are shopping in Home Depot, there will be a section of turnbuckles in boxes. Stay away from those (they are not made to handle weight and stress). The one you need is self packaged in the same isle. Usually hanging on a peg hook.
Using the 10mm bolts, washers, and nuts, LIGHTLY connect the ebrake cable via this way:
http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/6807/2116886270067948086S600x600Q85.jpg
Finished attachment should look like this:
http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/6432/2376238870067948086S600x600Q85.jpg
6) For the frontal bar, I used 3 bolts to hold the ebrake in place to the car and 1 bolt for the actual ebrake. First attach the ebrake to the bar with a 1 1/2" non self tapping bolt, 2 washers and a matching nut. Then use two 1 1/2 in self tapping screws with threadlocker. Finally on the farthest hole closest to the passenger side that you should have made to match the hole already in the car, use threadlocker with a matching 10mm 1-1/2in bolt. Make sure you use threadlocker on all the bolts you use.
Of course while doing this, you should have been making sure the ebrake lines up with the console so you are not bolting the ebrake in the wrong place. Remember this takes a lot of patience. Use the sharpie marker to mark the correct places for holes.
http://inlinethumb43.webshots.com/4714/2460751500067948086S500x500Q85.jpg
After the ebrake is bolted down and tight, give it a few minutes or however long you are supposed to wait for the threadlocker to dry.
7) Tighten the ebrake cable so that after 6 clicks your car is stopped. and less if you would like.
Hazard Switch rewire (credit to Lou aka dark_rican):
original 92-93 hazard switch harness:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e71/dark_rican13/Prelude%20Parts/Hazard92.jpg
1) Pop open the "pin door" use a paper clip and push it into the holes to pop out each cable. This will prevent you from cutting, soldering and taping (MUCH EASIER).
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e71/dark_rican13/Prelude%20Parts/HazardPins1.jpg
It should be rewired to (94-96):
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e71/dark_rican13/Prelude%20Parts/Hazard94.jpg
Finished product:
http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/4204/picture008cx5.jpg
94-96 Console with leather lid:
http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/71/picture010zc3.jpg
**will post more pix later.