Project Lude

[Showaski39]

So incase you havn't read my introductory thread, I bought my friend's '94 Prelude SI. It's now been sitting at my house since Friday and I just had the clutch replaced yestarday with a new one. The main relay is going bad and the car idles like complete crap. I'm making this thread in hopes of getting help as I go along with fixing this Prelude up and to post info and pictures as I go along. Hopefully you guys can help me out along the way.

It's a '94 SI 5-speed with the H22A1 motor. The chassis has 215K miles on it. The motor supposadly had around 85,xxx miles on it when my friend bought it. If that were true, it should have around 90,xxx miles now.

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/2842/cimg0583uo8.jpg

I'll get started with the clutch. The throwout bearing originally got worn out and lead to the clutch getting stuck and not being able to disengage. I bought a Duralast clutch with a lifetime warranty from AutoZone for $204.99, part no. NU31254 (http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performMoreDetail&Parameters=TRUE%7C%7EClutch+Kit%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EDUR ALAST%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E245045% 7C%7E2433%7C%7ENU31254%7C%7EDisc+outside+diameter+ 8+5%2F8%22%2C+spline+inside+diameter++%0A1+1%2F32% 22%2C+spline+count+24+kit+includes%3A+Clutch%2C+di sc%2C++%0Arelease+bearing%2C+alignment+tool%2C+pil ot+bearing%2C+++++++%0Aspline+lube%7C%7E%24204.99% 7C%7EHonda%7C%7EPrelude+SI%7C%7E1994%7C%7ELLT%7C%7 E14.0%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EB). I just had it installed yestarday. The old clutch disc was a six puck bronze clutch with a stock pressure plate. The clutch was FUBAR! The Prelude also has a lightweight flywheel. I'm not sure what brand it is though, but it's of a blue color.

http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/4389/cimg0609jc0.jpg

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/5654/cimg0611tc5.jpg

http://img226.imageshack.us/img226/5512/cimg0613in7.jpg

[Showaski39]

As for the idling, i'm really stuck. I've been searching and searching. But it looks like there are so many things that can cause a bad idle. For now i'm leaning more towards that it may just be a dirty IACV (Idle Air Control Valve).

Heres a video of the Prelude starting up.
The car is really tough to drive like this, it bounces a lot. If I disconnect the sensor that you see was disconnected in the video (TPS?), it idles and drives much smoother, but idles way to high (2,000 - 3,000 RPM's).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikZYxAxcx2c

Can anyone else agree? I'm also not sure if all the vaccum lines or hoses around the engine are properly connected to the right places. I'll try to snap some pictures of the hoses that i'm not sure about.

[Prelude13]

even if the IACV is full of carbon, it wont make that type of idling problem.
Are you throwing any CEL codes?

TPS could be your problem, or maybe not...

Duralast clutch, lifetime warranty not bad at all. :cool:

Check here for engine vacuum lines and diagrams.
http://preludezone.com/showthread.php?t=2005

[Showaski39]

Checked the vaccum hoses today, and I couldn't find anything wrong.
But I still have some questions in mind. I used this diagram to help me:

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/1075/h22a1vacuumdiagram640is3.jpg

For one, is the intake control solenoid valve required for normal operations? I'm sure it's used with the stock air intake. I removed it completely and it made no difference at all. I put it back in, in hopes that it would make a difference. But again, it made no difference whatsoever.

Plus there is a vacuum hose that comes out of that small box that leads to nothing. I'm guessing that hose would have connected to the stock air intake.

http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/9248/cimg0621ayh6.jpg

If I remove the hose the arrow is pointing to below and the intake control solenoid valve above, what am I supposed to do with the open port below? Just leave it there sucking in air? The hose the arrow is pointing to below leads to the intake control solenoid valve (line 8 in diagram):

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/834/cimg0624aet2.jpg

and what are these below? I have nothing connected to them, hopefully they aren't important.
Probably used with the stock intake.

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/8797/cimg0622anf2.jpg

[twokexlv6coupe]

yes you can completely remove the intake control solenoid including the vaccum hose going to the IM, and just cap the nipple off @ the IM.

[Prelude13]

So are you throwin any codes? :confused:

[MidnightRayne]

Check your idle screw its very common for it to back out and cause surging

[Showaski39]

I havn't checked the ECU for codes yet. I also messed around with the idle screw with no luck. I did take off my intake and found the bypass valve for the IACV and covered the hole with my thumb while the car was on and everything connected (IACV connected, etc.) and the car idles almost perfect and smooth as ever (about 1,000 RPM's).

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220&d=1168711942

I also found a white wire that was cut off from my o2 sensor. The o2 sensor has 3 wires coming out of it, and the white one was cut. I'll try to get some pictures of this cut wire.

I'm going to put the idle problem and o2 sensor to the side for now and lean towards replacing my front brake rotors and pads because they are really bad! I had cracks pointed out to me a few days ago.

So I bought new Duralast brake rotors (http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performMoreDetail&Parameters=TRUE%7C%7EBrake+Rotor+-+Front%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EDURALAST%7C%7ERotor+only++++ ++++++%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E48732%7C%7E2433% 7C%7E3297%7C%7E***+Recommend+inspecting+the+bearin gs+and+seals+during%0Amaintenance+and+replacement+ ***%7C%7E%2444.99%7C%7EHonda%7C%7EPrelude+SI%7C%7E 1994%7C%7E2+YR%7C%7E11.55%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EB) ($89.98 for two) and brake pads (http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performMoreDetail&Parameters=TRUE%7C%7EBrake+Pads+-+Front%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EDURALAST%7C%7ESemi-metallic+++++++%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E7258%7C %7E2433%7C%7EMKD568%7C%7E***+Consistent+and+effect ive+braking+with+shims+++++++%0Aincluded+where+app licable+***%7C%7E%2421.99%7C%7EHonda%7C%7EPrelude+ SI%7C%7E1994%7C%7ELLT%7C%7E3.65%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EB) ($21.99). I knew the front pads and rotors needed replacing, but not this bad. I wanted to get some Brembo blanks or something. But I was left with no choice as I couldn't wait a week or so to order Brembo rotors and some good rep. pads like the Hawk's. The Duralast pads also come with no shims, but the service manual shows three shims being used for each pad. So I went back to the store and double checked and they don't come with shims. I guess the shims aren't needed on the '94 Prelude SI? As long as brake noise is tiny to none, i'll be happy.

I'm disapointed at how Honda designed the front brake assembly. They made it so damn complicated just to remove the brake rotor. My 1980's 300ZX is so much simple, remove caliper and the rotor slides right off. I was hoping it would be the same if not easier on a '94 Honda, I guess not.

Heres the longest crack on my front left brake rotor (pretty scary):

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221&d=1168711942

[Showaski39]

OK, I jumped to conclusions about the front brake rotors. The front brake rotors on my Prelude are not pressed and will not be PITA to replace. :smile:

Bad news though, the brake rotors and pads I bought were to small. Two pics of one of the new rotors and pads I bought Vs. one of the front pads and rotors that were all ready on my car:

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222&d=1168731239

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223&d=1168731239

If this was a true SI chassis, then i'm only left to believe that along with the H22A1 swap, whoever did the swap also converted the front SI brakes to the bigger brakes from the VTEC model. Unless the year of the Prelude plays a factor? I'm really not sure.

I went everywhere looking for the bigger brakes, Auto Zone, Advanced Discount, Honda, and NAPA. No one had them in stock and they were a bit more pricey (except at NAPA). Auto Zone and Advanced were going to take to long to order the rotors and pads (1-2 weeks). Honda was going to charge $20 dollars per item to overnight the parts through UPS and NAPA was able to order them and have them in by Tuesday (3 days). So I ordered blank NAPA rotors (http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=UP&PartNumber=86374&Description=Brake+Rotor+Only+-+Front) ($49.98 for two) and ceramic brake pads (http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=SS&PartNumber=SS7382X&Description=Brake+Pads+-+Front%2c+Ceramic+Safety+Stop) ($36.49) for the front.

[Showaski39]

I just looked up my VIN "JHMBB1171RC000295" and found out some intresting stuff. It looks like I have the VTEC model afterall. This whole time i've played along with my friends and thought it was a regular SI with the VTEC motor swapped in. The motor may just have 200K miles like the cluster saids if it wasn't really swapped. The tranny must have been changed because it has the M2S4 tranny. I just don't understand why someone would get rid of the LSD unless the tranny was broken.

I wish I would have looked up the VIN sooner, I would have been looking for the right brake rotors. I was looking for the regular SI's brakes thinking the motor was swapped in a regular SI chassis.

[absntmnd69]

and what are these below? I have nothing connected to them, hopefully they aren't important.
Probably used with the stock intake too?

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/8797/cimg0622anf2.jpg
the top hose is like an egr hose....its a crankcase breather. the bottom is a coolant hose. i disconnected them, but breather filters on the intake piping and valve cover and put a new hose there for the coolant. i removed it all together

Heres the longest crack on my front left brake rotor (pretty scary):

http://preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221&stc=1&d=1168711942

that my friend is why you dont get cross drilled only rotors....they heat and crack....u want drilled and slotted

[absntmnd69]

I just looked up my VIN "JHMBB1171RC000295" and found out some intresting stuff. It looks like I have the VTEC model afterall. This whole time i've played along with my friends and thought it was a regular SI with the VTEC motor swapped in. The motor may just have 200K miles like the cluster saids if it wasn't really swapped. The tranny must have been changed because it has the M2S4 tranny. I just don't understand why someone would get rid of the LSD unless the tranny was broken.

I wish I would have looked up the VIN sooner, I would have been looking for the right brake rotors. I was looking for the regular SI's brakes thinking the motor was swapped in a regular SI chassis.

ok so your friend is a dick for not telling you...but there is really no way of telling how many miles are on your motor. the h22 and the h23 have the same tranny and not all vtec motors came with an lsd tranny....and for future reference...the trim of your car is an si vtec

[Showaski39]

that my friend is why you dont get cross drilled only rotors....they heat and crack....u want drilled and slotted

I think they used crappy rotors, like eBay rotors or something. Good rotors shouldn't crack like these.

the h22 and the h23 have the same tranny and not all vtec motors came with an lsd tranny

H22's (S VTEC or SI VTEC, whatever you want to call it) came with the M2F4. Correct me if i'm wrong, but that's coming striaght out of the service manual.


....and for future reference...the trim of your car is an si vtec

Yeah NOW I know that since I looked up the VIN.

ok so your friend is a dick for not telling you

My friend didn't own the car for long. He bought it just like that and the person he bought it from told him that. Told him that the H22 was swapped in there and had around 80K miles on it. So we thought it was just a regular SI with the H22 swapped in.

[absntmnd69]

i stand corrected

[Showaski39]

i stand corrected

So your telling me Honda randomly put the LSD tranny in the S Vtec Preludes? That makes no sense at all.

Anyway, I fixed the idle today! I woke up this morning determined to either fix it by cleaning the IACV or bypassing it. Whatever the case was, I just wanted to remove the IACV out of the possibilities.

Well I removed the throtle body out of the car and took off the IACV. I saw that the valve inside was loose, it wasn't even screwed in. You can clearly see where the vaccum leak was inside the IACV. I cleaned it up with a lot of brake fluid, screwed in and tightened the valve. I cleaned the throtle body too while I was at it.

Once I was done with all that, I put everything back together. The car had a smaller aftermarket throtle rotor over the stock one. Well I removed the aftermarket rotor (just used the stock rotor and left the aftermarket one out).

This was the moment of truth, I wasn't 100% sure if the loose valve was the one and only vaccum leak casuing the fluctuating idle. I start the car and it starts bouncing off the rev limiter and I immediatly turn it back off. Now i'm thinking, what did I do wrong? Later on my friend noticed the butterfly was opened (intake was off) a little in the T.B.

We overlooked the throtle cable! I forgot to adjust it according to the stock throtle rotor. So I adjust the throtle cable according to the stock rotor. I'm ready to turn the car back on, and bam the car idles perfect! Idles just below 1,000 RPM when warm (about 900 RPM). I'm sure I can adjust it a little bit more with the idle screw. I would have taken pictures as I went along but I couldn't find my camera at the moment. I'll record another video of how it idles now after the fixed and cleaned IACV.

[Si Speed]

The LSD for 4th gens is in the M2B4 trannys, and its JDM, apparently.
OBX and a few otehr companies make LSDs for the USDM trannies.

[Showaski39]

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=236&d=1169237202

They matched up perfectly this time around. The parts I ordered from NAPA were the right ones. I would recommend anyone buying the front brake rotors from NAPA (if your on a low budget). They come with lifetime warranty and the front rotors were only $25 each.

Of course these parts must meet or exceed OEM specs. and quality. So it's just dumb to spend anymore money on rotors and pads from Honda. Some parts should be ordered from Honda, maybe like a timing belt. But things like rotors or pads are just fine from places like NAPA.

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=237&d=1169237202

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=238&d=1169237202

I'm going to go to the 1/4 mile track tonight, gonna run the Prelude. I'll get back to you guys with some timeslips.

[Prelude13]

Ah yes, looks like everything is turning out just fine.
:biggrin:


good job man, let us know those times!

[Showaski39]

I ran a total of three times. My 16.4 run was slower because for one I had a passanger and I didn't launch hard (like 1.5K). I plan on running again on Feb. 11th. I need more practice at launching the car. I'm used to RWD. I ran a better 60' in my '89 300ZX, yet the Prelude is way faster. I guess the Z is just able to hook a lot better than the Prelude since it's RWD. The Z still gets wheel spin but not as bad as the 'lude. I used to think my Z had bad traction, the Prelude is worse. Goes to show the difference between FWD and RWD. I just gotta get used to the FWD and shifting at the higher RPM's (still getting used to the car). Anyway here are the time slips.

Run 1, 15.985 @ 89.84 MPH (http://preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=245&stc=1&d=1169442749)

Run 2, 16.449 @ 88.83 MPH (http://preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=246&stc=1&d=1169442740)

Run 3, 15.675 @ 91.23 MPH (http://preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=247&stc=1&d=1169442749)

By the way, my R/T in my first two runs are crap because I was originally not worried about getting good R/T's. I just wanted to get an idea of what the car ran in the 1/4 mile. So I stood at the line 'till I was ready to launch. In my last run, I took it more seriously because I was asked to race a CB7 H22 for fun. I also lowered my front tire pressure to 30 PSI for the last run.

Edit (3/5/07): I just want to make it clear that I had a lot of junk in my car that night. I had everything from a bunch of clothes in my back seats to my old front brake rotors/pads, old clutch disc/PP, OEM donut, and tools in my trunk.

[Showaski39]

What's up with all these Prelude's leaking a lot of oil? Mines leaks a little oil, and I think it may be the seals for the cam gears. Whatever it is, it always leave a drop of oil when I park it. I just don't want it to end up like these other Prelude's i'm reading about where it leaks like 3 quarts of oil in less than a day.

[Showaski39]

So I put a full tank in the car last week. $27 dollars of 93 last Sunday (1/27) and it lasted me roughly 320 miles. Today I checked the oil and noticed that I was little low on oil. Maybe I could have had better gas mileage? I wasn't that low though because my VTEC was still working.

By the way, I throw a CEL sometimes. It usually comes on during driving, when I get on the brakes while in gear. I'm thinking it's a combination of the exhaust leak (missing header gasket) before the catalytic converter and a cut wire from my o2 sensor. It probably explains why the car hesitates sometimes too.

I also cleaned the wheels, they were dirty as hell:

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=259&d=1170582379

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=260&d=1170582379

The car's not as low as it used to be. Got it raised and evened out a little.

[absntmnd69]

well if u have an h22a4 then u burn oil hitting vtec...if its the h22a1 then ur not burning nearly as much...same with the jdm h22a. the h22a4 is open deck compared to the h22a1 and jdm h22a being closed deck

[Showaski39]

My friend's dad saids the car has a bad valve. He can hear it because the car misfires sometimes when it's idling. It might burn oil from that bad valve. Plus it leaks a few drops of oil everywhere I park it. By the way, it's the H22A1. Hopefully the oil leak is an easy and cheap fix. =(

[Showaski39]

So I started getting a lot of brake nosie from my rear left brakes. I knew it was my rear brake rotors because they are FUBAR. So I bought new rear rotors and pads from NAPA.

I had a lot of trouble putting one of the rear calipers back on after installing a new rotor and pad (rear right). I later find out that my (rear right) caliper bracket is frozen (thanks to my friends dad)! So I kept the new rotor on and I had to put the old pads on. Now i'm stuck with brake noise for who knows how long. Most likely the other caliper bracket is frozen too. I'm going to get some good ones from the junk yard tomorrow after school.

[Si Speed]

That sucks bro. Let us know how it turns out.
4,000 posts! w00t!

[absntmnd69]

well first and foremost....NAPA FTMFL!!! and second...the caliper bracket doesnt freeze...the caliper freezes. auto zone sells pairs of calipers for 100-250 with core charge or something like that. get some new calipers, install them and the new pads, if u have to cut the rotors then do it, and bleed the brakes. should be good as new

[95h22a1turbo]

So your telling me Honda randomly put the LSD tranny in the S Vtec Preludes? That makes no sense at all.

Anyway, I fixed the idle today! I woke up this morning determined to either fix it by cleaning the IACV or bypassing it. Whatever the case was, I just wanted to remove the IACV out of the possibilities.

all type s jdm prelude's came with lsd. u had to do that many things to fix a problem lol wow u could of just got the code and know wat was wrong w/ it. saves a lot of time but good job fixing the problem.

[Showaski39]

well first and foremost....NAPA FTMFL!!! and second...the caliper bracket doesnt freeze...the caliper freezes. auto zone sells pairs of calipers for 100-250 with core charge or something like that. get some new calipers, install them and the new pads, if u have to cut the rotors then do it, and bleed the brakes. should be good as new

Nothing wrong with NAPA. :tongue:

The two holes where the caliper bolts onto the bracket won't slide in because they're siezed up. Hence, it's not allowing me to install the caliper back on properly with the new pads and rotor. I'm just going to try and find good rear calipers and brackets from the junk yard.

Does the '94-'95 Accord share the same rear brakes? Do any other car's share the same rear brakes as the Prelude?

u had to do that many things to fix a problem lol wow u could of just got the code and know wat was wrong w/ it. saves a lot of time but good job fixing the problem.

Many things? I didn't do many things and I got it fixed soon after getting the car anyway. I'm sorry if I don't have a scan tool at home. Plus I wasn't throwing a CEL before I had the idle fixed for some odd reason, and I didn't know how to run codes then w/out a scan tool on this car.

[absntmnd69]

see if there is a way that u can grease the slides. if not then u may have to replace the calipers

[Showaski39]

I found rear calipers (w/ brackets) at the junk yard for $30. They work great too. So I officially have new brake rotors and pads all around. =) No more brake noise, and the brakes are working great. All I have to do now is tighten my e-brake. It's hella loose.

I finally got this gasket for the header I ordered like a month ago. The old gasket was torn apart and caused a huge exhaust leak. If you watch the video I posted at the begining of this thread you can hear the horrible exhaust leak at the header.

Anyway, I have a aftermarket header so I had to order a gasket that would fit the header. I put the gasket in today and had trouble screwing in a bolt on the bottom flange. So there would be a little gap at the corner of the flange. I wasn't sure if the flange was bent or what. It's a small leak though and the new gasket still made a night and day difference compared to before. The car hesitates much less, drives a little smoother, and is quieter. I'm thinking i'll either take it to a shop to see if they can fix the header somehow or save up for a new Megan Racing header.

[Showaski39]

I'm getting lazy, it seems like i'm posting less and less pics.

Anyways, some things I ordered for the car:


SS Megan Racing Header
Injen Short Ram Intake
NGK Spark Plug Wires


I decided to just get a new header. Remember how I said the gasket made a night and day difference? Well it did, for like the first few days only. Then it started getting back to how it used to be. The gasket probably got wasted.

[Showaski39]

So after talking to someone about o2 sensors last night on AIM. I think I figured out why one of the wires from my o2 sensor is cut. Well, my car used to have pod gauges on the driver side "A" pillar. So theres a good chance one of the prev. owners had an air2fuel ratio gauge, and yanked the wire off the o2 sensor when they got rid of the car.

Anyways, I got my intake yestarday and installed it. It's so clean since it's new. It made my old intake look like it came from hell. I ordered my intake from ProStreetOnline.com and I had a smooth transaction with them. Minus the fact that it took about 2-3 weeks before I recieved the intake, only because they didn't have the intake in stock.

I took some pictures as I installed it. I figured I could post a small review of the intake.

Tools I used/needed:


Plier
Flat Head Scew Driver
1/4" and 3/8" Drive Ratchets
8 MM Deep Socket (1/4" drive), 10 MM Socket (3/8"), and 10" Socket Extension (3/8)


Try getting a smaller sized plier, it will help when removing a coolant hose underneath the TB.
This big ass plier was the only plier I had, so I had to improvise. I managed to do the job with it though.

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=301&d=1173326674


The Injen part # for intake system for '92-'96 Prelude polished (IS1700P).

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=299&d=1173326632


I recieved the intake from Pro Street all in original packaging from Injen (at least that's what it seemed like to me).

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=298&d=1173326606

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=300&d=1173326632

http://www.preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=302&d=1173326834

http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/7263/cimg1679bz8.jpg

http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/198/cimg1682lu1.jpg


Injen provides instructions and diagrams to help you install the intake. You first want to remove the stock air box and idle air control valve. Neither of them will no longer be needed.

They provide three hoses, two of them are vaccum hoses, and one is a coolant hose. For some reason Injen gives you a hose to replace the stock coolant hose that goes from your fast idle valve to the IACV. The only benefit that I can see from this is the fact that it eliminates that small PCV pipe, just one less thing to clutter your engine bay.

Remove the two clamps that are holding down the two hoses and pull the suckers out. Be careful, coolant will leak out of these hoses. If your car is hot, be prepared to feel some WARM coolant fall onto your hands. Your best bet is to wait for your engine to be cold before installing the intake.

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/4011/cimg1687jo6.jpg

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/2784/cimg1688mk0.jpg

http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/338/cimg1690eg1.jpg


All the hoses that Injen provides will be a little extra long. But I believe the only reason for that is to allow room for mistakes. I cut my coolant hose from Injen a bit so that I wouldn't have some slack in the hose, and I used t-bolt clamps to clamp the new hose and trashed those old rusted stock clamps.

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7752/cimg1692gy8.jpg

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/8991/cimg1693ad8.jpg


The rest is real simple. Use the mount, 10 MM nut, and washer Injen provides to bolt the new intake into your Prelude. This is where that 10" extension comes in handy.

http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/8844/cimg1695gw8.jpg

http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/4714/cimg1698ra0.jpg


I used the 1/4" drive ratchet and a 8 MM deep socket to tighten the three t-bolt clamps on the intake. The two by the TB and the one that goes over the cone filter. It just makes it a lot easier and faster to use the ratchet. You can always use a flat head screw driver instead.

http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/600/cimg1699tt2.jpg


And the results ...

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/2627/cimg1705tb7.jpg

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7619/cimg1710mq2.jpg

[Showaski39]

I got my Megan Racing header. I checked the flanges of my old header and they're not bent like I thought they were. So I have no idea why that one bolt would not screw in all the way. I fixed my o2 sensor while I was at it too. Two wires were cut up, one was completely cut and disconnected. I soldered the two wires together and taped them up. No more check engine light, no more (big) exhaust leak, and no more hesitation. :smile:

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/8421/cimg1742dq7.jpg


Before:

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/5351/cimg1719zc8.jpg


After:

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/4031/cimg1745og5.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/7506/cimg1743pw3.jpg

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/4476/cimg1748hv1.jpg

[partsguy247]

Man you did a really good job on turning that car around:burnout:

[Si Speed]

How do you like that Megan Header?
I love mine, especially for the value. You probably don't see as much of a gain on the H22 as I do on the H23.

[Showaski39]

Man you did a really good job on turning that car around:burnout:

Thanks for the comment. I think it's come a long way too as far as getting it to run good overall.
I drive it everyday and it's pretty good on gas too.

In my first post I complained about the main relay going bad, but it hasn't given me problems since i've had the new clutch.
I think it was just a low battery voltage since the car was sitting for a little bit before I got it.

How do you like that Megan Header?
I love mine, especially for the value. You probably don't see as much of a gain on the H22 as I do on the H23.

Yeah, I think Megan Racing is the best bang for your buck as far as headers go. My friend had a Megan Racing header in his '95 Accord EX, and i've liked thier headers ever since. Especially for the price.

There was a huge difference after I got the header installed. But I had a huge exhaust leak, cut o2 sensor wires, and my old header was a eBay special. So I felt a big difference after the new header. I would never know if the Megan Racing header gives the H22 any gains from stock form. But we'll see how I do in the 1/4 mile next time, and that should give us a general idea.

[revocast]

hey not to get away from the thread or nething, but if u get new wheels for this project car, i'd might like the stock ones

[Showaski39]

I don't have the stock wheels. Right now it has '95 Accord EX wheels.

[Showaski39]

I got new NGK wires and Irridium plugs installed.

The car is much smoother, my idle used to drop a little after I revved the car, that's completely gone now. My old wires were causing the car to misfire too.

My old wires/plugs:

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/4005/cimg1870ir5.jpg

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/1594/cimg1872mp9.jpg

http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/6683/cimg1873ie8.jpg

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/9696/cimg1875ch7.jpg

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6002/cimg1876ah6.jpg


The new NGK wires (they look sweet):

http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/2288/cimg1894fi7.jpg

They were 100% perfect fit, the spark plugs require no gapping at all.
Everything was a direct replacement.

[waltrupp1988]

yea i got the same plugs and wires and my lude used to do the same thing after i rev up the idle would drop down to far but not any more BTY awesome pics

[Showaski39]

Just an update.

Since I last posted my time-slips I took her to the track back in April and I never posted the times. Well I improved. I got a lot of wheel hop, and I only launched the car at 3.5K RPM's in this 15.1 run. I didn't want to hurt the clutch to much. I have a video clip of my RPM gauge and speedo for this run if any1's interested.

Anyway here is my quickest run from April since I first went in Jan:

R/T ... .467
60' ... 2.278
330 ... 6.411
1/8 ... 9.786 @ 72.60 MPH
1000 ... 12.696
1/4 ... 15.140 @ 91.96 MPH

Much better than my 15.675 @ 91.23 MPH (http://preludezone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=247&stc=1&d=1169442749) run that I ran back in January. The only main things that I remember that changed between this run and my last ones was my new MR header (no exhaust leak). I didn't have as much crap in my car and I actually removed my back seats, rear speakers, whatever else I could get my hands on, and tire pressure was about 20 PSI for the 15.1 run.

I still think I have room for improvement. I would like to do high 14's next time I go.

[Showaski39]

I just got new exhaust put on the car too on Tuesday. Just to make a long story short, I used to have a N1 knockoff cat-back. Well I hated how the exhaust sat (straight out or towards the center of car). I took it off in hopes to get it angled and got a exhaust ticket while I had it off. Luckily I had a WS2 axle-back meant for a Civic that my friend gave me a while ago, and found someone locally to weld it on my Tsudo N1 cat-back.

Anyway, heres a picture of the new muffler on my car. I'm happy as heck with it. I drove without exhaust for like months so its a night and day difference for me. No vibrations and the car sounds stock. :biggrin:

http://img481.imageshack.us/img481/9711/cimg9505wa6.jpg