Prelude13
11-12-2006, 12:47 AM
I purchased an Autometer Air/Fuel gauge earlier in the year and installed it.
This is a simple HOW TO guide for YOU to install something similar.
Note, this is not a wide band o2 sensor install &
is intended for vehicles equipped with an On Board Diagnostics I.
**DISCLAIMER**
This is a guide to install an Air fuel gauge where ECU wiring is required. I am not responsible for your actions. Use guide at own risk.
1)Buy An Air/Fuel gauge.
I happen to purchase the Autometer Phantom series, the 1st pic shown.
Other examples:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/Air-Fuel_Meters_Phantom.jpghttp://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/ef_11212.jpghttp://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/25537275_tp.jpg
~Locate a space to place this gauge now.
You can use a guage pod:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/12_1_b.jpg
~or find a convenient place like me :cool:
2)Disconnect negative terminal from battery
Find Location of your ECU & locate ECU wire harness.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/safc21212.jpg
This above pic is for a PK3 ECU, 90-91 Prelude. 88-89 are OBD 0 & are PK2.
1992-1995 Preludes are OBD I. Some 1996 models are equipped with OBD II(US & Canada)
3)This is the OBD I harness pinout diagram.(For OBD 0,-88-89- click here (http://www.preludezone.com/showthread.php?t=7950)) When installing these air/fuel gauges, they usually have three(3) wires that need to be wired. They can be any color combination, thus follow what the manual inclosed states.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/OBD2to1ab2a-1.jpg
(Disregard the b16a2)
Normally, the A/F guage will call for 1)POWER 2)Oxygen content/o2 sensor 3)GROUND.
Subsequently, some models will come with an additional wire, that can also control the backlit power controls. Omitted in this writeup.
In the OBD I picture below, locate pin C14.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/adsd21.jpg
This wire is solid white in color. From natural fading, this sole wire can actually look yellow. Please distinguish carefully.
In some applications, C14 can also be listed as D14.
Carefully tap into this wire on the harness, again solid white on the last plug, medium in sized.
(Some suggest soldering this connection, but be weary of bringing inside the cabin of the car an actual soldering iron)
4)Now we have two remaining wires left to wire.
The next wire should be the power wire.
You can simply tap into any 12v power source.
I chose the wire that powers my cd head unit.
5)The last remaining wire should be for Earth, or GROUND wire. You can also find the ground wire that leads to your CD head unit as well. Which is what i did, again.
(Please refer to radio harness diagrams at http://installdr.com/QuickWiring.html)
6)Clean up the mess you made and neatly tuck all the wires away together. ECU should be replaced onto it's kickboard or side compartment. Make sure you have enough slack for the wire(s) not to tug on each other, or apart. If the A/F unit does not supply enough wire slack, you can simply splice and extend as much as you need.
7)Now we are all done. Turn on the car, let the ECU now relearn its idle.
It takes up to 60 seconds for the o2 sensor(heated) to warm up. From then you'll see your gauge move from LEAN to STOICH, slightly towards RICH and back again. This is normal. This indicates your ECU is working, thinking, adjusting air fuel inputs.
OOoOooOOOoo THE COLORS!!! triPpY y0!
VIDS:
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/th_AF1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/?action=view¤t=AF1.flv&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch9)
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/th_af3.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/?action=view¤t=af3.flv&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch7)
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/mynewpaint2/DSC00529.jpg?t=1164232007
Although not 100% accurate, these A/F gauges can come in handy. They can give you an overall judgement on how your car is running. For instance, at FULL THROTTLE, the gauge should indicate you are RICH, or slightly past STOICH. Of course, this is installed on a stock fuel delivered vehicle. If you have an Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator, this gauge can let you know if you are mixing too much fuel at certain applications. For people running a turbo application, this is not a good source to read Air Fuel as is suggested to use a wide band o2 sensor that needs an additional bung to be welded in the exhaust system, before the catalytic converter(OBD I).
At any rate, this is the "cleaner" way to install an Air/Fuel Gauge. Most wire the o2 wire directly to the actuall o2 sensor. This can cause a mess for the future.
Good luck!
:smile:
This is a simple HOW TO guide for YOU to install something similar.
Note, this is not a wide band o2 sensor install &
is intended for vehicles equipped with an On Board Diagnostics I.
**DISCLAIMER**
This is a guide to install an Air fuel gauge where ECU wiring is required. I am not responsible for your actions. Use guide at own risk.
1)Buy An Air/Fuel gauge.
I happen to purchase the Autometer Phantom series, the 1st pic shown.
Other examples:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/Air-Fuel_Meters_Phantom.jpghttp://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/ef_11212.jpghttp://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/25537275_tp.jpg
~Locate a space to place this gauge now.
You can use a guage pod:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/12_1_b.jpg
~or find a convenient place like me :cool:
2)Disconnect negative terminal from battery
Find Location of your ECU & locate ECU wire harness.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/safc21212.jpg
This above pic is for a PK3 ECU, 90-91 Prelude. 88-89 are OBD 0 & are PK2.
1992-1995 Preludes are OBD I. Some 1996 models are equipped with OBD II(US & Canada)
3)This is the OBD I harness pinout diagram.(For OBD 0,-88-89- click here (http://www.preludezone.com/showthread.php?t=7950)) When installing these air/fuel gauges, they usually have three(3) wires that need to be wired. They can be any color combination, thus follow what the manual inclosed states.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/OBD2to1ab2a-1.jpg
(Disregard the b16a2)
Normally, the A/F guage will call for 1)POWER 2)Oxygen content/o2 sensor 3)GROUND.
Subsequently, some models will come with an additional wire, that can also control the backlit power controls. Omitted in this writeup.
In the OBD I picture below, locate pin C14.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/adsd21.jpg
This wire is solid white in color. From natural fading, this sole wire can actually look yellow. Please distinguish carefully.
In some applications, C14 can also be listed as D14.
Carefully tap into this wire on the harness, again solid white on the last plug, medium in sized.
(Some suggest soldering this connection, but be weary of bringing inside the cabin of the car an actual soldering iron)
4)Now we have two remaining wires left to wire.
The next wire should be the power wire.
You can simply tap into any 12v power source.
I chose the wire that powers my cd head unit.
5)The last remaining wire should be for Earth, or GROUND wire. You can also find the ground wire that leads to your CD head unit as well. Which is what i did, again.
(Please refer to radio harness diagrams at http://installdr.com/QuickWiring.html)
6)Clean up the mess you made and neatly tuck all the wires away together. ECU should be replaced onto it's kickboard or side compartment. Make sure you have enough slack for the wire(s) not to tug on each other, or apart. If the A/F unit does not supply enough wire slack, you can simply splice and extend as much as you need.
7)Now we are all done. Turn on the car, let the ECU now relearn its idle.
It takes up to 60 seconds for the o2 sensor(heated) to warm up. From then you'll see your gauge move from LEAN to STOICH, slightly towards RICH and back again. This is normal. This indicates your ECU is working, thinking, adjusting air fuel inputs.
OOoOooOOOoo THE COLORS!!! triPpY y0!
VIDS:
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/th_AF1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/?action=view¤t=AF1.flv&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch9)
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/th_af3.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/interior_AF/?action=view¤t=af3.flv&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch7)
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/Bpark13/mynewpaint2/DSC00529.jpg?t=1164232007
Although not 100% accurate, these A/F gauges can come in handy. They can give you an overall judgement on how your car is running. For instance, at FULL THROTTLE, the gauge should indicate you are RICH, or slightly past STOICH. Of course, this is installed on a stock fuel delivered vehicle. If you have an Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator, this gauge can let you know if you are mixing too much fuel at certain applications. For people running a turbo application, this is not a good source to read Air Fuel as is suggested to use a wide band o2 sensor that needs an additional bung to be welded in the exhaust system, before the catalytic converter(OBD I).
At any rate, this is the "cleaner" way to install an Air/Fuel Gauge. Most wire the o2 wire directly to the actuall o2 sensor. This can cause a mess for the future.
Good luck!
:smile: