Looking for a DD brake setup...

[rheakpl]

heya everyone...

im looking for a new brake setup..be it hawk pads, rotors, or legend/nsx calipers or everything..my goal is to daily drive with it so nothing outrageous...not to the extent of autocrossing (or MAYBE just there..)

earlier my brakes were spongy...i bled it, no bubbles and still didnt help..so i investigated...master brake cylinder was the culprit so i got a new one...and the sponginess went away...BUT the brakes still feel sooo weak...

i like the pressure i have to give it to progressively brake in the beginning but nearing the full stop is where it would fain to deteriorate...ok maybe im coming off a little strong but its like if i really put 90-100% of the brake pedal down, id still be going and not stop on a dime...is it just me?

the thing is i dont want the brakes to be overly sensitive...id hate that daily driving...but just must better...is there no way to win-have your cake and eat it too?

thanks for lookin

[Si Speed]

Mine does that after I've abused them a little. How old are the pads? They just might need changing. Is yours originally a S, Si, or VTEC? The VTEC brake kit is bigger than the S and Si. It isn't that hard to upgrade. I'd look into that.

[Prelude13]

After replacing your master cylinder, did you rebleed it again? Sometimes it takes a few tries to get all the air out of the lines, pro. shops use an electric pump to get all the air out...

nevertheless, you might want to take a look at your brake booster if you dont like how it feels...

A good, solid DD setup?

Brembo blank rotors, new calipers(NSX ones are nice, but too much $$, they are twin piston iirc), stainless steel brake lines, fresh new pads and fresh brake fluid.


As for stopping on a dime, do you not have ABS?
As Si_Speed mentioned, to stop like crazy, you need to upgrade to larger diameter rotors and stronger clamping calipers...ala NSX :sick: (im such a cynic)

:tup:

[rheakpl]

mm yes i do need new pads but im not confident that they will completely solve my problem. if i go just new pads, i will simply go oem or possibly hawks.

sorry forgot to mention i have the vtec model so i know my caliper is just tad larger than the s and si models.

i did re-bleed, felt the same so i brought it to my friends shop and he bled it for me again...same...mm brake booster true...

yes i was thinking blanks...not the nsx calipers because they are expensive and essentially the same as the legend gs calipers.. i read actually that the nsx ones have just slightly weaker braking power but are lighter i guess.

yea i guess i will realistically look into larger surface area rotors for better braking and some new pads for now..

thanks

[Si Speed]

Hawks and slotted rotors out to do the trick for you. As Brian said, Brembo blanks are also good.

[twokexlv6coupe]

just make sure you dont get a big brake kit, cuz i think all of them require at least 17" rims

[rheakpl]

mm gotcha...

im thinkin hawks but probably not slotted because there are cases where you actually lose more braking ability since youre losing more surface area....though it does cool you down faster, many rotors require quite a bit of heat to work esp the high end performance ones...if i ever think of goin that way haha...

so wat do you think...blanks with hawks (undecided about which ones)...are changing the brake lines really worth it?

[Prelude13]

Slotted are better than drilled.
Why?
Drilled are prone to crack, and since you and I live here in NYC, we got dumb-cold weather. :sick:

Powerslot rotors are an excellent choice.
Brembo blanks are also an excellent choice...not knowing if you are aiming for a lil` style...:cool:
Hawk pads are expensive and over rated.
You can get Autozone/Duralast pads w. lifetime warranty, meaning, they fade, bring them back and get fresh new ones.
EBC are good too, but they fade with the quickness.

Stainless steel lines worth it?
YES.
Lines need to hold pressure, fluid needs to move without being perturbed and again, when it gets cold, those rubber lines(especially over 10 years old) can start to dry rot.
Pressure is not lost with stainless steel lines. :yo:

[Si Speed]

Not just crack, some will just plain break. Simple because there isn't the full support there like a slotted or blank.
Don't forget Napa brakes too. It's reccomended that you use OEM brakes anyway. Definately upgrade to steel brake lines, and everything else stated above.

[hotrod]

if they're literally drilled, yes they'll crack. but if they were forged that way, no. i've been running a brembo bbk with cross drilled rotors for a couple of years now. no problems.

[Godofelru]

I still have my set of s/s brake lines, never got around to installing them >.<

[mizlude]

do the legend cals just fit with the vtec rotors?

[hotrod]

what year legend?

[mizlude]

what year legend?

whatever year or years that are the most commen swap for our ludes.i would realy like to do this soon becaus i have si breaks and and i know the v-tec ones are bigger but i want the 4 piston set up of the legends.and i know they fit under stock 15s and that is the best for me because i drag race and i like to drive the back roads of missouri at way to fast speeds

[ogsmakdade]

get some ss brake lines, slotted OEM size rotors, and some hawk pads. It's all the setup you'll need. You'll be more than pleased.
I have hawk pads and powerslot rotors on all 4 corners. you'll be able to get all the parts and have everything done for around $500

[mizlude]

i would still like to know what i takes to put the legend calapers on my car so any one?????help

[twokexlv6coupe]

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2348211#post2348211

legend cal's onto a 5th gen, but iono if it'll work for 4ths.

[rheakpl]

got this from ht (kotetu):

Hey guys! I finished my brake install in about 3 hours with a friend. Pretty good time, it was the first time I've done the full install. We did one side at a time, if you are competent, you may do one and have your friend do the other.

Here's a DIY, I suggest you verify EVERYTHING in my list BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANYTHING!!! I take no responsibility for you hurting or killing yourself or anyone else. As always, if you do this mod, you are responsible for the results. Please be safe!

Parts installed:
1995 Legend GS Sedan front calipers (including pad spring)
1995 Legend GS Sedan front caliper brackets (including pad retainers)
1995 Legend GS Sedan Brembo Blank rotors (28mm)
Goodridge Stainless steel braided front brake lines

Tools used:
10mm wrench
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
1/4 and 3/4 ratchet
rubber mallet
impact driver
2 pairs of plyers (for those hard to access places)
various extenders and adapters
6000 lbs jack
jack stands
heavy duty ZIP ties
clippers (for zip ties)
a couple of flat head screwdrivers
a few small blocks of wood (for clamping to the calipers during bleeding)
Plastic jar or pitcher (to catch brake fluid)
bag of rags (to keep it clean)

Install time:
3 hours, with friend.


Install procedure:
Preparations!
01) obtain all parts first!

02) make sure you have at least 2-3 hours of free time and a friend to help!

03) get a copy or printout of the appropriate pages of the Helms manual

04) gather all of the tools

05) Print out this DIY!!! =D

Break down!
06) loosen all 10 lugs on the front wheels

07) make sure parking break is up, car can be in or out of gear

08) jack up car (from the front) so the wheels are about 2-3 inches off of the ground

09) place jack stands behind front wheels, to support the jack and protect your life

10) double check all jacks and supports to make sure that everything is safe.

11) remove 10 lugs from front wheels, remove wheels (don't scratch your wheels!)
You will now see the rotor, single piston caliper, bracket, and behind these the dust shield, rubber brake line, and suspension.

12) loosen and remove caliper bolts (2 behind the rotor)

13) zip tie caliper up to one of the supports for the suspension (not the spring) - Make sure you get it out of the way of the rest of your work, you will get back to this later.

14) remove, and place in a safe location, your brake pads.

15) loosen and remove the bracket bolts (2 more behind the rotor)

16) remove the caliper bracket and put it in a box

17) Using the impact driver, carefully pound and remove the 2 screws holding the brake rotor onto the hub.

18) remove the old brake rotor

19) unbolt brakeline from brake caliper, taking care to use a rag to avoid spillage
19b - cut ziptie holding old brake caliper, be careful the fluid does not spill! (plug the hole)

20) place end of brake line into the jar you brought to catch the brake fluid -
let this drip here for a while, maybe 10 minutes.


Installation!
21) Install new Legend rotor taking care to align the screw holes. Don't use the impact driver to tighten the screws! wipe down rotor with a clean cloth.

22) Install legend caliper bracket

23) replace your brake pads in the bracket

24) mount the Legend caliper on the upper bolt only!

25) swing caliper upwards (to point the bleed bolt and nipple up

26) zip tie the caliper so it does not fall back down.

27) optional step Remove the rubber brake lines (2 bolts) and replace them with the Goodgridge (or other brand) Stainless steel lines,

28) Attach your brake lines to the Legend caliper, using the 2 washers from the old caliper.

At this point you should double check all of your work, make sure everything is snug, not tight, (though the brake line fittings should be tight). If you are doing one side at a time, now is the appropriate time to do the other side. You are now ready to bleed the brakes! congrats!

Bleeding!

For bleeding, make sure you bleed the ENTIRE system, front and back. I'm including two links to bleeding articles, so you have some background. Remember that you'll need to angle the calipers up.

29) Take those small blocks of wood and carefully wedge them into the calipers. you may need more than one block. I used 3, and zip tied them in place. Try to fill nearly the entire volume of the caliper. You don't want those pistons popping out!

30-32)Article 1 (http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/howtobleedbrakesright.htm)
Article 2 (http://www.sentra.net/tech/garage/brakes.php)

33) Repeat as necessary!

34) remove the wood blocks from the calipers, and gently slide the calipers down over the pads. (This may be a little difficult to do, but if you filled most of the caliper with the wood block, it won't be too bad.)

35) Bolt the lower caliper bolt to the bracket, and tighten all bolts in the brake system that need tightening.
35a) Before mounting wheels, double check ALL of the brake bolts and screws! There are 2 screws in the rotor, 2 bolts on the caliper, 2 bolts on the bracket, and 1 bolt on the brake line.

36) mount your two front wheels

37) test the car in a parking lot. test it a LOT. at slow speeds. Don't exceed 15 miles per hour. Remove the wheels and triple check the brake bolts!

If your car performed well, take it up to traffic speeds of 25-35 miles per hour and try some gradual stops. If you have done everything right, the braking should feel better than it did before you began. Run the car for a day or two, TAKING IT EASY!!!, and then you may want to bleed the brakes again, just to be safe.

You are DONE!! Congradulations and enjoy your new twin piston braking system!!! :D

If you have problems with the brakes, if they feel loose or unresponsive, then you still have air in the system. Go back to step 30, and bleed them again. Remember that while you are bleeding you need to build up brake pressure with the brake bleed bolt TIGHT. Once most of the air is out of the system, it will start to feel quite good!

[Si Speed]

copy and paste this in the DIY Jen. Great write up!

[rich045]

copy and paste this in the DIY Jen. Great write up!

dude all of that is common sense... damn lazy ppl

[rheakpl]

dude all of that is common sense... damn lazy ppl

i think the consolidated list of what tools youll need, how long it can take and what little things not to forget to do are important.

of course some may know the general, "how to remove brake pads, how to remove the rotors..etc" but some dont, thats why they ask...anyway i personally think its good to have the full scope of whatever you need done cause you can always ignore what you know but you cant make up what you dont...

plus again i didnt write this but i figure since a few people were asking how so why not post =]

[rich045]

damn NOOOBBBBBSSSS, they cant do their own research... poop on you noobs, POOP ON YOUU!!!.
it takes no rocket scientist to take our your rotors, as a matter of a fact, even a monkey can take out your brakes and your whole suspenssion... a cool monkey that is, i seen it with my own very 2 eyes, tru story

[partsguy247]

I did the Legend caliper swap about a month ago and it was super easy.
If you can change your oil you can change your calipers.
Since I started out with a Si non vtec I got the vtec rotors.
Next was the calipers off a 95 Legned GS mine came with the
t25 braket But I think the t23 work also.
Last Ceramic pads for a Legend( same parts number as NSX )
I got more brake torque from the larger rotors.
Now I got Calipers that look good and perform GREAT. New calipers, rotors, pads only costed me 160 dollars (I get parts at cost) thanks to my job.:smile: