Stuttering / Missing???

[LilMsPrelude]

92 Si 2.3 L JDHM -- I recently changed the Small (3/4") bypass hose from the thermostat to the block due to a small pin-hole. It's the little u-shaped hose. I took the Air Intake (short ram) off and also had to remove the input line from the t-stat to the IACV in order to get to the clamps. Of course I lost a significant amount of Antifreeze in the process.
(p.s. anitifreeze dries your hands out terribly! :eviltongue:)

After returning everything "back to Normal" I filled the radiator with 50/50 pre-mix and started the car. I let it idle - no test drive - until the car was warmed up (gauge on the dash was half way) then turned the car off to check for leaks. No leaks found so I let it cool down and topped off the radiator and filled the overflow up 1/3 of the way.

I got up the next morning and hopped up on the interstate to go to work.. made it about two miles-- cruising in 5th gear, steady RPM's aprox 3800, and the car started Jerking, like it was mis-firring, stuttering???? :06:
I shifted to fourth and gave it some gas and after about a second it regained power and took off. Once off the interstate I found that it was doing this in ANY gear if I kept the RPM consitent. Again, stepping on the gas it "coughed" and went away. Eventually the CEL came on and the car kind of lurched-- then it seemed to drive fine??? WTF??? :mmph:
I parked it at work and didnt drive it anywhere for lunch. Before leaving work I confirmed the Radiator was full. Going home last night it threw up the CEL again so I got on PZ and looked up how to pull the codes. (nice tutorial btw) http://preludezone.com/showthread.php?t=2363

I pulled the wires out and I ONLY have the grey colored connector.. but it LOOKS EXACTLY the same as his pics show. 3-Position A/B connector with two wires. I jumped the two and turned the key to the run position and NOTHING. CEL came on like normal and turned off. No codes/Flashing at all.

I DID have to leave and drive about 25 miles (one way) so I pulled the clock/Radio Fuse in an attempt to reset the CEL. During this time I also pulled each Spark Plug wire to check for cracks or issues, they are relatively new wires too.. MAYBE a years worth of use on them max. It seemed to do fine until I was getting on the interstate to come home (about 2 hours later) cruising up to the intersection/light to turn on the interstate it started "chugging" again and threw up the CEL. I got home and left the car running--it was now dark outside so I could look for any sparks jumping from the wires. Nuttin. Did it again this morning on the way to work.

The car idles smoothly (set up for 900-1100 rpm) and does NOT stutter on acceleration once it "coughs."

Any Ideas? Since I can't get a code to show.

[twokexlv6coupe]

are you 200% positive there's only one gray connector behind there???
there should be two, MAYBE three connectors back there. the correct (blue) one that you need isn't just loosely chillin back there, its plugged into a clip that prevents you from just pulling it out.



and even tho it doesn't sound like the correct symptoms, did you PROPERLY bleed the coolant via the bleeder valve on the t-stat housing??

[LilMsPrelude]

and even tho it doesn't sound like the correct symptoms, did you PROPERLY bleed the coolant via the bleeder valve on the t-stat housing??


I was not aware of this. :frown: I will CERTAINLY give this a try-- I can see where this would cause a problem.

I looked though the repair manual but didnt see anything about doing that... you can tell how old school I am... LOL... on the old 74 Chevy you just needed to leave the Radiator cap off until the pump kicked in... *sigh*

[twokexlv6coupe]

hahaha its all good.

here's how to do it:
first, the engines gotta be cold. take the rad cap off, and undo the bleeder valve w/ a 10mm. if you put clear tubing over the bleeder nipple its a lil easier to see if there's any air bubbles coming out, but if you don't have any tubing, keep filling the coolant until there's a steady stream of coolant coming outta the bleeder, then tighten it back up.
then keep the rad cap off, turn the engine on, and wait til the fans turn on and off twice. loosen the bleeder again AND MAKE SURE YOU KEEP ADDING COOLANT AS IT DROPS!! if there's not a steady stream of coolant coming outta the bleeder, squeeze the rad hoses to swish the coolant around and hopefully push the air bubbles out. once a steady stream is coming out, close the bleeder, top off coolant, and put the cap back on.

if you wanna go get the tubing from lowes, its regular vacuum tubing, 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID i think...