DIY:ICE-How to make a fiberglass enclosure

[sightnsound]

Im in the process of doing a major trunk overhaul at the moment as you may have read in my other thread. I promised to write up a how-to when i was done with the install. Since I can only work on it on weekends at my parents house, it won't be finished for a while but I want to get rolling with the how-to. This will be updated as I work on the project. So here it is......

What you will need

Table saw
Radial Arm Saw/chop saw
Jig saw
Router/router bit set
Cardboard(optional)
Clothes hanger(optional)
Fiberglass resin
Fiberglass matting/cloth
Dowel rods
Wood glue
Stretchy fabric/fleece material
Staple gun(optional)
1-3/3-5 sec Super Glue
Super glue Activator
Disposable paintbrushes
Rubber gloves
DA Sander
Table sander
3/4" MDF or similar particle board
access to a full-fledge wood shop helps
CREATIVITY AND PATIENCE!


First thing you will want to do is disconnect your old system and remove it from the vehicle. Be sure to label any wires if need be, as well is isolate your power wire (see pic 2) to prevent from blowing your fuse.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1089.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1090.jpg

Next thing you will want to do is make the base of your box. You will want to make it conform to the trunk or mounting location as best as you can. This one was easy because the floor was flat and i simply removed the spare tire cover to create my stencil. If you are working with an unlevel surface you can use a few other ways to duplicate the shape of the work surfac. It can be duplicated by bending a clothes hanger to match the shape or cutting a piece of cardboard and then transferring it to the particle board.

As you can see below i layed the spare tire cover on the base board and traced its outline. Once the outline is traced you will want to cut it out by using a jigsaw(see third picture).
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1091.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1092.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1093.jpg

The next shot is just of the trunk with the base of the box layed in the trunk to verify proper fitment.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1095.jpg

After checking the trunk for fitment its time to hit the router table. You will want to router all edges that will be exposed to the fabric to ensure a smooth and seemless box. Routering the edges removes the sharp corners and harsh lines that would show when the skeleton of the box is wrapped in fabric (this will be covered more later). Different diameter roundover bits will give smoother/sharper edges. The larger the diameter, the smoother the edge and vise-versa.

BEFORE
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1096.jpg

AFTER
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1099.jpg

Your base is essentially complete.

The next step is to build your sub rmounts. This was a part that i can't explain very well, but hopefully you will be able to get the idea from the pics. I designed the mounts so that the subs will sit recessed in the box rather than on top of it.

You will need to make two seperate rings per sub mount. i.e. 1-10" sub mount requires 2 rings...or 4 total in my case. Both rings(per sub mount) will have the SAME outside diameter, the insides will be different so that the sub can sit inside it. I got the outside and inside diameters for the first/top ring by tracing the trim piece from my old box. See pic below. NOTE: The trim piece i am referring to is the Q-Logic one with the square corner.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1100.jpg

The second/bottom sub ring will have the same outer diameter as the top one, but the inside diameter will be less that on the top ring. I got this diameter from the bottom of the subwoofer itself.

This pic shows the center cut out of the bottom ring with the sub sitting in place and the top ring around it.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1101.jpg

Next thing i did was cut out the bottom ring after making sure both rings lined up and the sub fit in place. Repeat this process per additional woofer. The next pic shows both of the sub rings after they have been cut out and fit together to create the sub mount.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1103.jpg

After all sub rings have been cut out, you will want to glue them together and clamp in place. Clean up any excess glue that squeezes out so your dad doesn't complain about the mess and then you're done for the night.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1104.jpg

Once the glue is done drying it is time to clean up the sub mounts. I used a table sander to bevel the sides. NOTE: Look at the slight angle of the resting platform.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1106.jpg

On the vertical disc part of the table sander i simply rotated the sub mounts until they were bevelled and cleaned up sufficiently. (not pictured) I used a DA to clean the line that was created by beveling the sub mount side on the table sander. Below is a pic of the two sub mounts laying on top of each showing the smooth and rounded sides.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1108.jpg

After the sides of the sub mounts are cleaned up it is time to round over the edges with the router. You can use a larger diameter router bit for more subtle transitions, smaller diameter for sharper ones. Here are a couple shots of me routering the two sub mounts.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1109.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1110.jpg

Then this is what they will look like when they've been routered
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1111.jpg

Now you are finished with the sub mounts!

The next step is to create the amp rack. I made a simple pedestal for the amp to set on. I just took a quick measurement of the amp (8"x9") and cut the rack to be 1/2" larger around the amp (9"x10"). You can cut this piece by ripping it to length on the table saw(see pic below) and cutting it to width on the radial arm saw/chop saw (not pictured).
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1112.jpg

Here's a shot of the amp sitting on its future rack.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1114.jpg

[sightnsound]

Just like with the sub mounts, the next step is to clean the edges on the router table. Here's a couple shots of the amp rack being routered.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1115.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1116.jpg

Now that everything is rounded,smooth,and cleaned up, it is almost time to assemble!
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1117.jpg

Mounting the sub mounts and amp rack to the base is up next. This step can be tricky. On this step you will need your dowel rods,wood glue, and drill/bit set. I used 3/8" dowel rods and a matching bit. If you are good at geometry this will be a snap, but if you are like me you will have to rely on guess and check! :redface: You can adjust the angles you drill and the lengths of the dowel rods to adjust the position of the sub mounts and amp rack.

IMPORTANT: You will be COUNTERSINKING these dowel rods, NOT drilling all the way through. If you are using a large diameter dowel rod such as a 3/8" like i did, you will want to drill a pilot hole first to prevent your bit from creeping. By countersinking, i mean that you are simply drilling a pocket into the base and the sub mounts for the dowel rods to slide into.

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1118.jpg

And the amp rack...
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1122.jpg

Countersinking the base...
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1123.jpg

Once everything is countersunk and your dowel rods have been cut to length, go ahead and dry-fit everything. You may have to recut some of the dowel rods to get it to work if you use the guess and check method. :wink: After everything has been dry fit and works, its time to add wood glue and assemble.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1121.jpg

Once the glue is set in place, you'll want to let it sit a couple hours to dry. I let mine sit in the sun for about 2 hours, but it was over 95 and sunny...NOTE my "work" attire. Here's a few shots of the skeleton completely glued and assembled.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1124.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1125.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1126.jpg

Now its time to put some meat on the bones! You're gonna want to use the most stretchy fabric you can find. I used an old fleece blanket my mom had and it's been by far the best thing i've used.

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1128.jpg

The super glue i had was a 1-3 sec model airplane glue and activator. You can also use a staple gun if you can stretch the fabric underneath to the base and staple it there, but i prefer the glue. The best way to approach this is to pick a point on the middle of the box and stretch the fabric over the edge. Hold in place, apply glue and hit it with the activator. The activator is going to cause a chemical reaction, heating the joint and instantly curing. BEWARE: This chemical reaction is very eye and nasal irrant! After i took these pics i ended up throwing on a respirator and glasses. It's 10x worse than cutting onions, TRUST ME.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1129.jpg
After the first spot is tacked in place, go directly to the opposite side of the box. From here, stretch the fleece as tight as you can and tack in place with the glue and activator.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1133.jpg

Once you have it tacked down on opposite sides, pick one of the two points and gradually work your way around to the other side. Move a few inches at a time, pulling the fleece tight and tacking it as you go.

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1130.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1134.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1131.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1135.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1137.jpg
Now its all the way around and glued in place!
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1138.jpg

After the fleece has been glued in place all the way around you will want to trim the excess off.

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1139.jpg

Here it is all nice and trimmed.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1140.jpg

Now for the probably the most expensive step....laying the glass. Be prepared to use a lot of resin. To start off you will need a dedicated mixing cup, disposable paint brushes, latex gloves, and obviously the resin w/hardener.

The first coat you will put on will definitely be the thickest. The fleece will absorb a TON of resin initially. I easily went through a 1/2 gallon on my first coat. Pour a desired amount of resin in to a cup, add the recommended amount of hardener(per the manufacturer) and stir together for about 30 seconds. Once it has been thoroughly mixed begin to brush it on the the fabric.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1141.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1142.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1143.jpg
Continue to brush the resin all around the box. The only spots you don't have to worry about are going to be the middle where the subs are going to sit. You will want to brush resin on the the edges of the sub mounts, I will provide better pics as soon as i get more supplies as well as describe how to trim them out. Here's a pic of the box after one solid coat.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff360/jdroth/Trunk%20project/100_1145.jpg

RECOMMENDATIONS:Do in a WELL ventilated area. The fumes generate can be very dangerous to your health. Do outside if possible, if not, make sure you have a fan going in your shop and wear a respirator! Also, latex gloves are encouraged because the resin is very sticky and EVERYTHING will stick to your fingers.

[nstory13]

Very nice josh, and be sure to wear those safety glasses, **** can get in your eye!

[sightnsound]

Very nice josh, and be sure to wear those safety glasses, **** can get in your eye!

Notice the presence of safety glasses, but lack of shirt...you can't tell in the pictures but i AM rocking flip-flops as well...all while operating power tools! :cool:

[nstory13]

haha Mr. half-ass-safety over here. Just to let you know when i do my stuff were going to work on it at your rents place

[bboi_xtc]

Lots o props for DIY. However, you're forgetting probably the most important thing, which I'm hoping you did when you did this and just probably forgot to mention:

Calculate the internal volume for proper and optimal use of the subs. This is one mistake many, I'm not saying you, but most people forget to do when constructing a box. The manual has the optimal volume of air specifications. Also don't forget to include the volume the sub itself takes up. Too small or too large of a box won't give you the performance of the subs you paid for. This applies more towards systems that already come in a set box.

Props again for the write up, and you did what a write up should look like. Lots of pictures!

[sightnsound]

Lots o props for DIY. However, you're forgetting probably the most important thing, which I'm hoping you did when you did this and just probably forgot to mention:

Calculate the internal volume for proper and optimal use of the subs. This is one mistake many, I'm not saying you, but most people forget to do when constructing a box. The manual has the optimal volume of air specifications. Also don't forget to include the volume the sub itself takes up. Too small or too large of a box won't give you the performance of the subs you paid for. This applies more towards systems that already come in a set box.

Props again for the write up, and you did what a write up should look like. Lots of pictures!

I tried to calculate it the best i could, its difficult with the oblong shape of it. Its very close though. I'd say it has almost the same, if not a bit more air space than the old box.

[PreludeFX]

So what kind of wood is being used?

[sightnsound]

So what kind of wood is being used?

You will want to use 3/4" MDF.

[nevrdun]

Nice write up. Defintately gotta have the right tools. I LOVE the table router!. I did a set of heads and new intake on my old chevy in flip-flops and no shirt! Thats how the best work is done. You definatley wanna try and get better wood next time. That is pretty low grade MDF and has the tendancy to break. Resin should hold it together pretty well but in a box application it wont last half as long as a good MDF board. Nice basic design that is easy to do and a good example for a DIY write up good job.

[PreludeFX]

Hm well I do work in a custom audio store...the wood your using looks more like LDF and your base bored is def ply wood haha. You know what your doing but im worried that its gonna flex a bunch because you have 3 posts holding each ring. Also instead of glueing the fleece its best to staple it. Like I said it will work, and you do what your doing.

[nevrdun]

Dude your always pickin' on ****. I wouldnt use the wood he did but thats why you use fiberglass. The construction is only to get the shape. After he applies the resin to the fleece and then glasses it it doesn't matter what the skeleton is. Or if he stapled it, or if the bottom is plywood, or if the rings are supported by spaghetti. Hell he even drilled the dowels in. Most people just glue them! Hes one up on accepted method. The inside of a turtle is soft the shell doesn't give a damn. You have a vibe of I know better than you and you make posts that are demeaning like your trying to prove a point to your self or something. "What kind of wood is being used?" You know exactly what is being used if youve spent 2 weeks in a shop. Why do you need to ask? Its like your digging dirt. This is definatly not the forum for playing games everyone here is quite courteous. Try and keep your posts constructive if you know more than others about your field. Neck knows his turbo **** and if someone is upto something that is bad news he will help them out. Same with ogs the N/A monster if some one wants input. Mods if I'm out of line I'm sorry but sightnsound did a hell of a job on a fairly advanced project for a forum largely comprised of engine performance and basic mods and he deserves props for that not to get chopped down.

[sightnsound]

When asked earlier what I used, this was how i replied... YOU will want to use 3/4" MDF.

because i know in the pictures i used regular plywood. I only used regular plywood cuz i didnt have enough of the proper wood and i did the work on LABOR DAY and hour away from where i actually live. Good luck finding a lumber yard open on a national holiday. I made due with what i had and it will be properly reinforced WHEN i get more materials and time to do so. The sub mounts and along the base will be heavily reinforced to prevent the flex. I just haven't got to that point yet. If you want, i can just post up pics from here on out and you can put up your own commentary on how its done and what im doing right/wrong.....

Dude your always pickin' on ****. I wouldnt use the wood he did but thats why you use fiberglass. The construction is only to get the shape. After he applies the resin to the fleece and then glasses it it doesn't matter what the skeleton is. Or if he stapled it, or if the bottom is plywood, or if the rings are supported by spaghetti. Hell he even drilled the dowels in. Most people just glue them! Hes one up on accepted method. The inside of a turtle is soft the shell doesn't give a damn. You have a vibe of I know better than you and you make posts that are demeaning like your trying to prove a point to your self or something. "What kind of wood is being used?" You know exactly what is being used if youve spent 2 weeks in a shop. Why do you need to ask? Its like your digging dirt. This is definatly not the forum for playing games everyone here is quite courteous. Try and keep your posts constructive if you know more than others about your field. Neck knows his turbo **** and if someone is upto something that is bad news he will help them out. Same with ogs the N/A monster if some one wants input. Mods if I'm out of line I'm sorry but sightnsound did a hell of a job on a fairly advanced project for a forum largely comprised of engine performance and basic mods and he deserves props for that not to get chopped down.

Thank you.

[Brash22]

Well put you two. I have nothing to add. Keep up the good work on the install job, I need updates!

[PreludeFX]

Again..not trying to be a dick im just stating...look if your going to reinforce then great I just dont wanna see ya spend hrs and hrs on something and it not work thats frustrating ass hell been there like i said you know your ****. So im sorry to anyone I offended ( nevrdun). So accept it our not im sorry.

[nevrdun]

Dude you didnt offend me but of the 28 posts youve made nothing has been of any relavance. You're hackin this guy, told someone to take their amp out and bench test it (this isn't the shop people cant just do that. Its like when some one said my car's sluggish, common issue, you don't say throw it on a dyno and see what it makes), hackin one company and praising another without giving people what they need to hear. WHY! This site is for information and if you are me, LilMsPrelude, Mdtdnb, and others and you HAVE experience and know-how a notch or two above the others you have to help people in ways they understand and need. Ive talked to another person about the misconceptions about car audio that flow all over this thread. Do we say screw it their dumb? It takes time and peoples want to learn to change things and were there for that. Negative critisim is not going to help anyone.

Hm well I do work in a custom audio store...the wood your using looks more like LDF and your base bored is def ply wood haha.

That is pompous. C'mon man lets get real. If it picks at your strings I'm sorry but if that's what it takes. Being in the field there's a whole lot more to bring to the table than you have. I hope this will end the interuptions to your thread sightnsound, Im sorry for that but somethings need to be said.

[Mdtdnb]

Well i am excited to see the final results! everyone has a method of their own and this is one i would gladly duplicate. If you cant see the real workmanship here, it is not the fault of sightnsound. I dont care if you have never even seen a car stereo project or worked on over 2000 systems......Every car stereo job looks like hell or even worse until the very end when it all comes together and then all of a sudden looks AWESOME. In this case I am very confident that the type of wood being used is for the most part irrelevant. It is a FIBERGLASS thread. that $hit is mad strong and i seriously doubt this setup will flex and anyone who uses the advice here will benefit greatly from it. I say well done and keep it up bro! :biggrin:

[PreludeFX]

alright...im giving a public apology im sry to all.... from now on i will be constructive... i apologize and if anyone needs any help on electronics... let me know i will not chime in with anything but positive things...thank u nevrdun but u can bench test anywhere lol if u want to know how let me know... im from texas got a lot of southern skills so to speak...sry once again i dont wanna hack at the only people who know some **** about preludes...still cool?

[Brandonryan]

dude... This is great. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this up for all of us.

your very lucky to have access to all of these tools.
I have access to a lathe, plasma torch, welder, frame rack....

but when it comes time for wood tools. I have a handsaw.. thats it :)

again thank you.

[virus]

thnx for the "how to". but I have a question. what did you do with the cables???

[sightnsound]

thnx for the "how to". but I have a question. what did you do with the cables???

Havent gotten to that part yet. I am going to be working on this thing hardcore this weekend. My dad's woodshop and tools are about an hour away from where i live and go to school. But this is what i am going to do....you know how on a regular sub box you have that insert that has the pos/neg posts on it that you hook your wires up to straight from the amp?

I am going to take the ones off of the original box and put them on the bottom of this one. Don't worry, by monday this thread will be over double in size with updated pics and info. :cool:

[virus]

did you know that when you put vasaline on a serface that the resin won't stick to that part?