Clear Coat Chipping Please Help!!

[1BadBB6]

my clear coat started to chip and its gettin bigger by the day. the rain has really made it worse. is there anything i can do to stop this until i can get the car painted, hopefully this winter. my dad said he thinks that clear fingernail polish should do it. any other ideas???

http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r379/JORDiBUG12/8-23-2008001.jpg

http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r379/JORDiBUG12/8-23-2008002.jpg

[97' Lude]

Keep a good coat of wax on it???

[hojemwod]

spray some more clear over it...or put clear silicon over it lol

[1BadBB6]

jokes aside please, this depresses me everytime i look at it. steph i think this is a good question for you.

[hojemwod]

i was serious. yea its redneck / ghetto but thats what i would do since it would only be temporary until paint. the nailpolish is a good idea too

[97' Lude]

If your getting it repainted this winter why is it that important?

[xiayu]

If your getting it repainted this winter why is it that important?

Because it looks bad?

[97' Lude]

Where is it located? Could you cover it with a decal or something for the time being?

[hojemwod]

Because it looks bad?

well its gonna look bad no matter what till he gets it painted. unless he wants to spend 200 to get it professionally fixed but that wouldnt make sense if the car is getting painted.

[97' Lude]

^^Exactly my point thank you!

[NightRacer]

ya just wait it out till you get it painted..winter is just around the corner..till then wax it and make sure you wax that spot good to put a protective layer over top of it.

[99PreludeSh]

just cuff it with a gray scotch brite get the flakes off of it, then spray a little rattle can clear to keep it from getting bigger. That'll hold you over until you get it painted. Wont look the greatest but it'll do.

[NightRacer]

ya that would work as well....hmm a BB Squad Shirt? lol.

[DanBBB]

just cuff it with a gray scotch brite get the flakes off of it, then spray a little rattle can clear to keep it from getting bigger. That'll hold you over until you get it painted. Wont look the greatest but it'll do.

+1 for this method. I had the same thing happen on one of my Rx7's and if you are willing to put a bit of effort into it, you can get it looking just like new. Just take your time with the prep work and tape off everything before you start spraying. (overspray is a pain)

Also I would actually recommend wet sanding it with 1000 to 2000 grit paper. Be VERY careful if you sand the part with no clearcoat so you don't sand off the paint. Then wipe it down really good and give it a couple cotes of clear. Should be able to get it almost perfect.

-Dan

[1BadBB6]

ya just wait it out till you get it painted..winter is just around the corner..till then wax it and make sure you wax that spot good to put a protective layer over top of it.

yea and let it spread all over my car?!?!?!? no thank you.


alright thanks, its on my spoiler which has grown to about a 5in diameter circle and there is a small spot on my passenger's side door only about 1in x 2in.

so what brand clear should i get? i dont mind spending a couple of extra bucks to get something good.

[bdizzel124]

Id just wait a few months and get it painted, most likely where you get it painted from wont seal your car first, Sealer is like a primer but dosnt allow chemicals to get past it. There gonna scuff it up with a scotch pad and paint it. The problem with can spray paint is that it dosnt cure, ill prove it
Take spray paint and paint a metal surface, get thinner and after it dries and wipe the area with a cloth and thinner, your rag turns the color of your pant and will come off if you keep doing it.
If you want to fix it almost to perfect here is the best way.
Get a small amont of clear coat with hardner added in. take a soft small paint brush and put a few coats of clear coat on the chipped area and over llap it a little bit. wait a long time i reccomend 1 or 2 in the sun and dry area. get 2000 grit wet sand paper and BE CAREFUL on sanding down the clear untill it is at the same level as the orgial clear. Sould be ealy easy to sand so go slow. Get some buffing wax and apply it on to the wet sanded area and hand buff it out. The fine scatches will go away from wet sanding and your chip will be unoticable.

[99PreludeSh]

Just go with Dupont

Id just wait a few months and get it painted, most likely where you get it painted from wont seal your car first, Sealer is like a primer but dosnt allow chemicals to get past it. There gonna scuff it up with a scotch pad and paint it. The problem with can spray paint is that it dosnt cure, ill prove it
Take spray paint and paint a metal surface, get thinner and after it dries and wipe the area with a cloth and thinner, your rag turns the color of your pant and will come off if you keep doing it.
If you want to fix it almost to perfect here is the best way.
Get a small amont of clear coat with hardner added in. take a soft small paint brush and put a few coats of clear coat on the chipped area and over llap it a little bit. wait a long time i reccomend 1 or 2 in the sun and dry area. get 2000 grit wet sand paper and BE CAREFUL on sanding down the clear untill it is at the same level as the orgial clear. Sould be ealy easy to sand so go slow. Get some buffing wax and apply it on to the wet sanded area and hand buff it out. The fine scatches will go away from wet sanding and your chip will be unoticable.

Yeah if you take it to MACCO they wont seal it, but any decent shop would.

Primer is for material build up, and also if you have had body work it makes it appear as if you didnt after you wet sand it.

Yeah of course thinner would make the clear wipe off. YOU NEVER APPLY THINNER TO A PANEL THAT HAS BEEN REFINISHED. You can do it to an OEM paint job if you rub enough. Any paint is reversible to its original state of liquid especially when thinner or reducer us added.


I highly recommend you 1badbb6 to not do it because it wont last when you paint brush paint on, it wont adhere as if you were to spray clear on.

[1BadBB6]

I think i will go with what the paint and auto body specialist is telling me, thanks steph.

the place i am getting my car painted at, prolly the most reputable place in knoxville, is malibu customs. they have always done the work on my car when i have been in minor fender benders, they also do their own carbon fiber work too!!
http://malibucollision.com/index.htm

[89STD]

Id just wait a few months and get it painted, most likely where you get it painted from wont seal your car first, Sealer is like a primer but dosnt allow chemicals to get past it. There gonna scuff it up with a scotch pad and paint it. The problem with can spray paint is that it dosnt cure, ill prove it
Take spray paint and paint a metal surface, get thinner and after it dries and wipe the area with a cloth and thinner, your rag turns the color of your pant and will come off if you keep doing it.
If you want to fix it almost to perfect here is the best way.
Get a small amont of clear coat with hardner added in. take a soft small paint brush and put a few coats of clear coat on the chipped area and over llap it a little bit. wait a long time i reccomend 1 or 2 in the sun and dry area. get 2000 grit wet sand paper and BE CAREFUL on sanding down the clear untill it is at the same level as the orgial clear. Sould be ealy easy to sand so go slow. Get some buffing wax and apply it on to the wet sanded area and hand buff it out. The fine scatches will go away from wet sanding and your chip will be unoticable.



#2 Any decent body shop will always seal before a color change or a complete repaint

#3 Sealer is not used to keep chemicals from getting past, it is used to get a uniform color, level textured surface over a repair area, to keep colors from bleeding and dying back, and most of all as an adhesion promoter for your base color. You see a basecoat/clearcoat paint job is a sytem of stacking refinishing products, each product has a chemical bonding agent that allows each step i.e(primer,sealer,base,and clear) to adhere to the other for a durable long lasting finish. Thats why you dont intermix one paint line with another and also why your prepping is so important.

#4 Every single paint product available cures, they all cure differently though. And like Steph said they are all reversable, granted a single stage product will reverse easier than the more durable bc/cc none the less you can take them all back to liqiud state with thinner. Also any decent automotive grade clearcoat will not be dried to buff in 1-2 hours without baking for 45mins at 160 degrees. And none of these clears are fully cured until 4-6 weeks after application, thats why any decent bodyshop will tell you not to wax your car for 4-6 weeks after refinishing, if you do you run the risk of trapping the escaping solvents and could posibly cause your brand new paint to lift off the panel.

#5 I could go on forever trying to explain all this but I wont. If your just trying to keep it from getting worse until you paint it than do what steph said and feather out the peeling clear with a gray scotchbrite and spray 2 coats of duplicolor clear or go to your local paint dealer and ask for a 2k clear in a spray can(these are one time use cans) and do a clear blend. You will want to scuff about 3in. around the peeling area and mask about 5in. further than that. At the edge of your sanding line and mostly on the unsanded surface take some extra cut rubbing compound and rub it pretty good, this will help prevent a blend line. Spray your first coat of clear on the immediate repair area(this would be the peeling spot) let it flash for 10mins. Make sure your spray coats are even medium wet coats because you want it to have gloss. Once flashed spray your second coat, on this one your going to spray all the way to the edge of your sand line and about 1-2in. into the unsanded/buffed area that you putt the extra cut rubbing compound onto. This is your final coat so make sure it has the texture your looking for. Let dry for a good 12 hours and try to keep some sun on it, once dry unmask and hand rub the entire blend area until you can no longer see your repair and polish to a high shine.

A tip on masking for a blend is to back mask, this is where you roll the tape back on itself( fold the tape in half longways so that the sticky edge is on both sides) one side of the tape will stick to the car and your paper will stick to the other side. This will give you a fuzzy line around the repair area once your done, the fuzzy line is also known as your blend line and is what you have polish out once your done. If you just straight tape it you will get a hard line and will be able to see the repair.

This is the best I can explain the procedure and is a little vague still, if you dont feel confident that you can do something like this than dont. You dont have alot of experience so I cannot garauntee that your product will turn out perfect but atleast you have an idea of what you would be getting into. If you have any ?s just pm Steph and we can get you some pictures of certain steps or point you in the right direction, but whatever you do dont listen to bdizzel because he doesnt know what hes talking about. Good Luck.

[1BadBB6]

so after i unmask it, when you say handrub does that mean with a rubbing compound??

also the spot on my passenger side door is right between the handle and the window so when i sand and mask it back, should i include the handle as well or just make the top of the handle a hard line and either side of the handle the blend area?

[89STD]

so after i unmask it, when you say handrub does that mean with a rubbing compound??

also the spot on my passenger side door is right between the handle and the window so when i sand and mask it back, should i include the handle as well or just make the top of the handle a hard line and either side of the handle the blend area?


Yes extra cut rubbing compound, and just mask the whole handle, and use that crisp body line of the door as your cutoff for the bottom of the blend( if that makes any sense to you). Also put clear all the way to the edge of the door(the quarter panel side) that way you only have one blend line to worry about.

[1BadBB6]

Yes extra cut rubbing compound, and just mask the whole handle, and use that crisp body line of the door as your cutoff for the bottom of the blend( if that makes any sense to you). Also put clear all the way to the edge of the door(the quarter panel side) that way you only have one blend line to worry about.

yeah that makes perfect sense thanks a bunch. thats all of the questions i have for now. i am going to work on this sunday and monday and i will post pics when i am done. rep to both you and steph for all of the help.

[99PreludeSh]

#2 Any decent body shop will always seal before a color change or a complete repaint

#3 Sealer is not used to keep chemicals from getting past, it is used to get a uniform color, level textured surface over a repair area, to keep colors from bleeding and dying back, and most of all as an adhesion promoter for your base color. You see a basecoat/clearcoat paint job is a sytem of stacking refinishing products, each product has a chemical bonding agent that allows each step i.e(primer,sealer,base,and clear) to adhere to the other for a durable long lasting finish. Thats why you dont intermix one paint line with another and also why your prepping is so important.

#4 Every single paint product available cures, they all cure differently though. And like Steph said they are all reversable, granted a single stage product will reverse easier than the more durable bc/cc none the less you can take them all back to liqiud state with thinner. Also any decent automotive grade clearcoat will not be dried to buff in 1-2 hours without baking for 45mins at 160 degrees. And none of these clears are fully cured until 4-6 weeks after application, thats why any decent bodyshop will tell you not to wax your car for 4-6 weeks after refinishing, if you do you run the risk of trapping the escaping solvents and could posibly cause your brand new paint to lift off the panel.

#5 I could go on forever trying to explain all this but I wont. If your just trying to keep it from getting worse until you paint it than do what steph said and feather out the peeling clear with a gray scotchbrite and spray 2 coats of duplicolor clear or go to your local paint dealer and ask for a 2k clear in a spray can(these are one time use cans) and do a clear blend. You will want to scuff about 3in. around the peeling area and mask about 5in. further than that. At the edge of your sanding line and mostly on the unsanded surface take some extra cut rubbing compound and rub it pretty good, this will help prevent a blend line. Spray your first coat of clear on the immediate repair area(this would be the peeling spot) let it flash for 10mins. Make sure your spray coats are even medium wet coats because you want it to have gloss. Once flashed spray your second coat, on this one your going to spray all the way to the edge of your sand line and about 1-2in. into the unsanded/buffed area that you putt the extra cut rubbing compound onto. This is your final coat so make sure it has the texture your looking for. Let dry for a good 12 hours and try to keep some sun on it, once dry unmask and hand rub the entire blend area until you can no longer see your repair and polish to a high shine.

A tip on masking for a blend is to back mask, this is where you roll the tape back on itself( fold the tape in half longways so that the sticky edge is on both sides) one side of the tape will stick to the car and your paper will stick to the other side. This will give you a fuzzy line around the repair area once your done, the fuzzy line is also known as your blend line and is what you have polish out once your done. If you just straight tape it you will get a hard line and will be able to see the repair.

This is the best I can explain the procedure and is a little vague still, if you dont feel confident that you can do something like this than dont. You dont have alot of experience so I cannot garauntee that your product will turn out perfect but atleast you have an idea of what you would be getting into. If you have any ?s just pm Steph and we can get you some pictures of certain steps or point you in the right direction, but whatever you do dont listen to bdizzel because he doesnt know what hes talking about. Good Luck.

Great posting and great knowledge thanks Tom

[DanBBB]

A tip on masking for a blend is to back mask, this is where you roll the tape back on itself( fold the tape in half longways so that the sticky edge is on both sides) one side of the tape will stick to the car and your paper will stick to the other side. This will give you a fuzzy line around the repair area once your done, the fuzzy line is also known as your blend line and is what you have polish out once your done. If you just straight tape it you will get a hard line and will be able to see the repair.


AWESOME TIP! Thanks for that bro, I have seriously always wondered how they blend panels... I always got that hard edge and couldn't figure out what to do with it.

You rock.

-Dan

[bdizzel124]

The difference being with “wet on wet” the sealer is applied and then allowed a short flash time before the basecoat or SS is applied. A “barrier coat” is where the sealer is applied, then allowed to cure or at the very least to totally flash. This allows the sealer to become a barrier so the solvents from the color coat can’t penetrate it and attack the substrate.



http://www.autobodystore.com/ms7.shtml
from this web site
I can back my **** up can you!!!!!!

[89STD]

The difference being with “wet on wet” the sealer is applied and then allowed a short flash time before the basecoat or SS is applied. A “barrier coat” is where the sealer is applied, then allowed to cure or at the very least to totally flash. This allows the sealer to become a barrier so the solvents from the color coat can’t penetrate it and attack the substrate.



http://www.autobodystore.com/ms7.shtml
from this web site
I can back my **** up can you!!!!!!

Ok first of all you are correct a sealer is used as a barrier between the substrate and your topcoats but that is not its main purpose,example if you have a substrate that is starting to lift or does not get along with your topcoats then you strip those off so you can get proper adhesion. Second is that you always let your sealer flash completely dry to the touch(even when its wet on wet) if you didnt then you wouldnt be able to tack it. Third you can get clearcoat back into its liquid state by rubbing thinner on it, it may take a little time but you can always reverse it. And finally I dont have to go look my **** up off the internets, Ive been doing this professionally for 7years and have over 70 ICAR points,and considered a Gold Class member and a Platinum Individual. I know what a body shop wants and yes they want it done fast but they also want it done right, it has nothing to do with cheap because the insurance company and or person is paying for everything. If its not done right the first time then it comes back for WARRANTY WORK and let me tell you no one likes working for free. Now Im done bickering with you because its pointless, You dont know what your doing so stop giving people bad advice.

If you know so much then lets see what youve done because I think your full of **** and only went to Tech school in highschool.

[ogsmakdade]

i dont mind being proven wrong its just f'ed up when someones gotta call you a "#1 Your a phucking idiot"
F***** him,

Thanks for not reacting any more poorly than you did. It's appreciated.

I'm fairly certain 1badbb6 has the info he was after. To all parties involved, stop the attacks or the thread will close.

[99PreludeSh]

question has been answered and useful information has been said thread locked

[Si Speed]

1badbb6, if you didn't get the info you needed, feel free to start another thread and we'll try it again.