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View Full Version : EXT: 5th Gen Window Trim Replacement


MNLuder
07-29-2008, 12:19 AM
Sorry about no pictures but I could add some next week if needed

For many 5th gen owners the black rubber-coated molding at the bottom of the window on both the driver and passenger doors has become an eyesore. It drys out and deteriorates on many of our Preludes. I decided that I had to do something to make it look better. Some other owners have painted the piece after stripping it down while on the car, I went the replacement route and in this DIY I'll give you two different options on how to fix it.

First Method: Removal and Complete Replacement

What You'll Need:
New molding pieces (Drivers side is Product # 33055, Passenger side is 33054 from Majestic Honda(http://www.HondaAutomotiveParts.com)
Flat head screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver

Very Helpful But Not Totally Needed:
Extra set of hands (really helps)
Prelude Service Manual (Chapter 20)

What You'll Be Doing:
Basically removing the door panel, mirror, then the old molding

Step 1:
Start by removing the black plastic "triangle" cover for the mirror on the inside of the door. I had to get pretty physical with mine but they came out after some prying on the part that would be closest to the front of the door when its closed. (I used a flat head screwdriver with the end covered in cloth to avoid scratches)

Step 2:
Pop of the speaker cover and remove the speaker and screws that hold it and door panel to the door. (My car has had many different speakers so the screws aren't stock but I had 3). Disconnect speaker and put it aside.

Step 3:
Pop the small cover and remove the screw at the bottom of the handle that is used to pull the door closed.

Step 4:
Now this is where you need the extra hands, if you are working solo it's just some more work. Remove the screw behind the handle used to open the door and slide then carefully pull out the whole tweeter/handle combo. Notice the connections for the door locks and tweeter and the metal rod that connects to the door handle. If you are alone you will have to unplug them and unclip the rod from the plastic piece to remove the whole door panel when you set it aside. If you have someone (or some way) to hold the panel you can leave the wires and rod connected ( which helps keep it simple).

Step 5:
If you have someone holding the door or have the handle/tweeter piece removed you can now take off the door panel. I started at the back of the door and used a flat head screwdriver with the cloth over it to pry it loose working my way along the bottom (careful not to bend the panel too much). Toward the front there is a plug that comes up with some prying. Carefully lift off the door panel to free it up top. If you have to put the panel aside completely you will have to unplug the window / power mirror connections, but if you have someone to hold the panel you just have the carefully hold it just off the door and leave everything plugged in and connected( the wires and rod from step 4 also).

Status Report:
You should have removed the black inside mirror cover "triangle"
Removed the speaker and other screws that hold door
Unconnected and removed the panel OR
Just have the panel off and have it held nearly in place with everything connected

Step 6:
Now you need to remove the mirror. Unplug it and remove the 3 screws. Should come off easily.

Step 7:
Now the total piece of molding is visible. Removal is probably going to take some physical effort. The window glass is a factor at the back of the door so you'll need to start at the end that was under the mirror. It is held on with 6 white plastic clips. I used a flat head screwdriver to loosen up the first clip a bit and then started pulling. It was pretty tough but It seemed to work best when I put the screwdriver in the next clip ahead of where I was pulling. Just be very carefully not to scratch the glass and If you break a clip, don't worry cause the new ones come with clips (just don't lose it in the bottom of the door, I managed to get my broken piece out).

Step 8:
Once you get the old one out just pop the new one in. It should just pop right in and go a lot easier than the removal of the old one. Just make sure you put the correct one on (drivers side or passenger side). The unfinished end goes under the mirror.

Step 9:
Now you should be set to go and all you need to do is put everything back as it was before. Start with the mirror and work your way back wards (This is much easier if you didn't have to unplug or disconnect everything).


Second Method:Removal and Paint


If you don't want to spend the money to buy new molding pieces you could go another route. Some people have used various paints to paint the moldings after the rubber coating is removed. Why not take them off the car and then paint them? Remove the pieces using the method above and then you have a better way to paint them without worrying about getting paint on the car. If clips are broken in the removal process you can get them from Majestic (Product # 33060). It might be a good idea to get some before had just in case you break them on removal.


Conclusion:
So thats that I guess. You can either replace with new or try and paint them after you take them off the car. Sorry if this is a craptastic DIY post but it really is pretty easy and if you have questions I could possible have the knowledge or experience to answer them for ya. Also sorry about the lack of pictures (due to a lack of camera), I could add some after my car gets back from getting hail damage repaired.

Si Speed
07-29-2008, 01:15 AM
Great write up, thanks. Pics really would help though.
Adding to the DIY vault.

thomas97
07-29-2008, 12:06 PM
you dont really have to take the door off to get it off, you pry underneath it with a screwdriver covered in a rag, then is starts to pop up the you slide it left of right (depending on side of car) wala dont have to remove all the crap

Derek904
07-29-2008, 04:27 PM
Great window trim diy! I'm gonna use this & touch mine up this weekend, thanx:smile: