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View Full Version : How to remove power steering and loop the line (As told by 98vtec)


Si Speed
07-19-2008, 10:22 PM
DISCLAIMER: I am posting this with permission from the original owner. This is not my personal write-up.

Original Post (http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?&id=1643792&postid=21986242#21986242)
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EDITED WARNING:
This modification has been done to a base model 5th gen. I am not sure of the effects which will take place if this is done to an SH model. Proceed with caution.

This is just going to be really quick, it gets to a point to where i really didnt feel like taking pictures because alot of it is just removing clips and removing hardlines. Anyway, theres a pretty big difference between just running without the belt and having the lines looped. Much easier to drive and the engine bay looks much better.

You will need to buy only once part for this.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b376/98vtec/DSC02034.jpg

All it is is a attachment for the air compressors. Nothing big. I think the pack of 2 was $1.99

Your going to want to get out as much fluid from the start as possible. I didnt do it the way im about to explain because i was stupid and not thinking, lol.

First off, jack the car up enough that you can crawl underneath. REMEMBER TO USE JACKSTANDS. Dont be stupid. Be safe!

Remove the main PS line from the PS pump.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b376/98vtec/DSC02026.jpg

With the line off, turn the car on. Make sure the PS line is in a bucket or some kind of oil catch. With the engine on and the wheels off the ground, turn the wheel back and forth to pump all of the fluid out. It may help to use two people with this because once the fluid is all out, you are going to want to shut the car off immediately to stop the pumping. I guess if you dont care about damaging the pump then the last statement is void.

Remove the top mount bolts:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b376/98vtec/DSC02027.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b376/98vtec/DSC02028.jpg

Now remove the bottom mount bolt

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b376/98vtec/DSC02029.jpg

After removing the mount bolts, pop off the belt and get it out of the way, you will not need it anymore.

Next you can work on taking the PS bracket off

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b376/98vtec/DSC02030.jpg

Next on the list is to remove the bolts holding the cooler to the car

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b376/98vtec/DSC02031.jpg

You will need to remove this bolt as well

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b376/98vtec/DSC02033.jpg

At this point, i stopped taking pictures momentarily because it was just unhooking hoses and pulling pieces off. You will need a 10mm socket to remove the lines from the cooler.

In order to keep the fluid from going everywhere, i used an oil bucket. Just like one of those that you can buy at autozone. It really helps minimize the cleanup. Cuz it can get messy FAST!

Now you need to get under the car. There is another 10mm bolt/bracket holding the hardline coming from the cooler. Remove that. Then follow the hardline until it goes to a regular PS line. You will want to cut the line. The line you just cut goes to the top of the steering rack.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b376/98vtec/DSC02036.jpg

You are going to be using that line to run to the attachment that you bought. There is likely to still be a little fluid in the line so make sure to have that oil catch nearby.

Now get out from under the car and locate the steering rack from the top part of the engine bay. Its on the driver side right below the intake manifold. You want to remove the bottom "bolt" from the valve body. This is your high pressure line that runs to the PS pump. remove that and the 10mm bracket holding the line down. You will be able to remove the main PS line after that "bolt" is removed.

Take your air compressor attachment that you bought and wrap the thread in teflon tape. This will ensure a good seal and no leaks.

There needs to be a little fluid in the lines so be sure to add some before doing this last part.

Now take the line you cut and put it on the attachment. You can use some of the clamps you just removed to keep the line on the adaptor piece.

When you are done, it should look a little like this

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b376/98vtec/DSC02037.jpg

Si Speed
07-19-2008, 10:26 PM
For the record, when I did this mod, I was able to do it all from the top, which mighta made it a little more difficult but I got it done. I also recommend using a t-bolt clamp when looping the line instead of the squeeze one, it's just easier to work with.

Mdtdnb
07-20-2008, 06:44 PM
good post, how much of a difference are you talking here? "easier" to drive?:confused:

Si Speed
07-20-2008, 06:55 PM
Because if it's all dry inside, there's no lubricatio and makes it harder.
just put 205/50/16's on and I don't even notice to be honest. With the 215/50's, it was more noticeable and a little harder to drive but it's a lot more fun now.

NightRacer
08-05-2008, 05:41 AM
one question ok well i haven't had liquid in my setup for a long time now...and was wondering is it possible to instead of looping the lines just removing the whole damn setup?

Si Speed
08-08-2008, 08:52 PM
one question ok well i haven't had liquid in my setup for a long time now...and was wondering is it possible to instead of looping the lines just removing the whole damn setup?

I'm not 100% sure, but I'm thinking that by not having fluid in there for lubrication, you're gonna screw something up. Better safe than sorry. Check the price of a new steering rack/column. It's frightening. :eek:

ChicagoRSX
09-04-2008, 10:46 PM
Ok, I have to ask. Why do you do this mod, and what exactly does it do.

99PreludeSh
09-04-2008, 10:48 PM
Ok, I have to ask. Why do you do this mod, and what exactly does it do.

I have heard it gives you so much better gas mileage and people just want to get bigger arm muscles.

hojemwod
09-05-2008, 10:41 AM
I have heard it gives you so much better gas mileage and people just want to get bigger arm muscles.

also frees up hp

xiayu
09-07-2008, 06:46 AM
I understand getting the pump out of the picture, you save weight, gain hp and mpg while making the bay look nicer, but I'm a little confused. The pump creates pressure for a hydraulic line, right? If you let a bunch of air into the line doesn't it make it harder to steer? Shouldn't you want no air in that line?

Mdtdnb
09-07-2008, 06:59 AM
good question. i just assumed ( keep in mind i still have PS) that the line would be sealed with some fluid still in it to make sure there isnt air in there?

mizlude
09-13-2008, 04:31 PM
good write up but its not worth it to me, if you want to free up the hp and keep you ps just get some pullies.

Si Speed
09-14-2008, 12:24 PM
I have heard it gives you so much better gas mileage and people just want to get bigger arm muscles.

The muscles are actually a side effect, lol. Back when I was running 215/50/16's, it was 5x harder to steer, especially in place, than with the 205/50/16's I have now.

I understand getting the pump out of the picture, you save weight, gain hp and mpg while making the bay look nicer, but I'm a little confused. The pump creates pressure for a hydraulic line, right? If you let a bunch of air into the line doesn't it make it harder to steer? Shouldn't you want no air in that line?

good question. i just assumed ( keep in mind i still have PS) that the line would be sealed with some fluid still in it to make sure there isnt air in there?

100% correct.
When you cut the line, you leave enough to loop it (as the title says) but you keep it up right until then with fluid inside and then put the hose attachment and then put the hose on that with fluid inside. You may need a basting utensil out of the kitchen to add some if you lost some.