Originally Posted by wing8806
Grease will prevent any rust from forming. Thats why you can toss some grease or oil onnits and bolts and just wipe them clean when ready to remove. Notice any place with an oil leak is the cleanest once the oil is cleaned off lol.
The question is Wing, what will YOU be doing? I had a look and the chassis black I'm using recommends an enamel primer over any bare metal, I think I'll do as Byk suggested and at the very least prime inside where the bushings go. The bushing grease itself seems to be pretty waterproof so should help seal it properly in the future even if the paint does wear off.
I've started writing a to do list for the next track day (November 29th), damn only 3 1/2 months away.
- Finish removing old ball joints from LCA's
- Prep and paint both LCA's and trailing arms
- Finish stripping 4WS wiring out
- Install new bushings and reassemble
- Repair broken chassis rail and get reinforced rear sway bar mounts made
- Do the whole process again for the front bushings (probably won't have time)
- Get a wheel alignment
- Get a decent race seat, wasn't initially a priority but with the semi-slicks I doubt I'll be able to hold on without one, means getting a proper seat rail and harness too
- Finish restoring the Enkei rims. Includes replacing any broken bolts, double checking the torque of all the others, installing new valves, getting them balanced and getting the tires mounted. I'll have to grab some OEM style lug nuts too, the ones I have use the hex bolt adaptor and I hate them, I generally strip one every time I change wheels (and they're steel)
- Seriously considering an oil-pressure gauge. Getting the semi's has really pushed forward my time frames but given the extra traction I'm very worried about oil starvation. A baffled sump is the next obvious step if I am having issues.
I have a full set of brake caliper repair and hardware kits, and a new clutch master and slave cylinder sitting there ready to go too, I think they can wait until later since I'll do a full proper bleed after the next track day anyway. I'm still undecided if I'll replace the brake/clutch lines with stainless braided ones yet, I was talking to the bloke I bought the tires off (who is a SERIOUS tarmac rally enthusiast) and he suggested stainless might be a bad idea since I'm already having issues with rear end lockups, the rubber lines reduce pedal feel but give a bit of a margin for error and given my lack of ABS sounds like a good idea. Dropping the rear end back down should help with the weight transfer a little but chances are I'll throw in a brake bias valve if I'm still having problems.