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honda low end torque prob.

 
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:22 AM
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honda low end torque prob.

hey...I just got this 98 lude 5spd..base model...when ever I am on a slope..we are taking sandiego city slopes... The car always moves back...I cannot feel the friction point at all...in my sunfire GT the car would hold on the friction point even on 60 degreee slopes allowing me to smoothly apply power....how do I correct this...do I need to change my driving habits in order to drive this car better in slopes?I've actually let the clutch stay and rev the car upto 5000 rpm...almost doing a burn out as I go along but I'm sure this is "f"ing up my engine...how should I go about tackling slopes in this car???
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:41 AM
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Pressure plate might be bad. Does it hold and let you shift smoothly at high rpms?
In mine, I have over $120K miles on my stock clutch, I can't feel when it catches, I've just learned. I can drive normal fine but it always grinds going into 3rd or doesn't go in at all if I'm about 4000 rpms. I'm getting all that swapped out this summer though to new stuff.
Remember, clutches vary from car to car so your situation may just be you need to get more used to it and maybe aadjust your driving. Hopefully that's it. How many miles are on the clutch?
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:48 AM
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178,000 KM....clutch ,pressure plate, solenoid valve all are expensive....and they dont come as a kit...like my sunfire GT...I gotta buy them individually....I hope it's just my driving....but as I said...the moment I go on a deep slope...thts it...i have to rev it up high while the clutch is engaged and do a burn out style roll out...which is bad on many accounts...however on plain straight roads it holds...I can feel the friction point easy ...so may be it's my driving???
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:59 AM
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Sounds like it is just the driving if you can feel it in flat surface.
I can't feel mine period, I just know where it is.
H22's have crappy low end anyway. They're top end motors.
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Old 05-08-2008, 10:21 AM
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I'm gonna teach you a little trick that I do that goes easier on your clutch...

If you are on a steep uphill... the kind that you would need to load a lot of RPMs onto your clutch to hold your self still before rolling out, as you said, this is a little trick I do... Set your e-brake up so that when you take your foot off of the brake, you don't start to roll backwards... then rev and engage your clutch like you normally would, and at the point where you feel it start to grab, put your e-brake down and you'll pull away...

It takes a little bit of practice, but it is easier on your clutch because you're not using your clutch to keep you from rolling backwards, your e-brake is taking a lot of that stress off of the clutch... just make sure you put your e-brake down as soon as you feel it start to grab because if you don't that puts a lot of stress on the clutch disc as well...

And e's right about the low end thing... they don't have much torque down low. I have a brand new stage 1 clutch and 8 lb flywheel and it still feels like it's slipping if you don't launch right at pretty high rpms...

That's another thing to think about, do you have an aftermarket flywheel in there do you know? If you have a light flywheel that changes the driving dynamics, especially on hills...

Also, another thing to think about, what exactly do you mean by solenoid valve? do you mean your slave cylinder? Because you can buy a raybestos slave cylinder for 20 bucks, and you can get an exedy/daiken OEM replacement clutch KIT (comes with clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing) for much cheaper than you could buy all those parts separately from a stealership. And remember, Honda OEM clutch components are made by Exedy/Daiken Clutch so by buying it directly from Exedy/Daiken you are getting the same thing for cheaper... I think I got my exedy stage 1 clutch kit for like 230 or something... I don't remember for sure, but it was cheaper than buying the OEM components from Honda, and it was an upgrade =)

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Old 05-08-2008, 10:48 AM
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I am going to try that ebrake thing....as soon as I feel the grab( usually at about 2000-2300 RPM)....should I gradually let the ebrake down or just plain drop it?
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Old 05-08-2008, 10:48 AM
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you don't need to rev much over 2K to start out on even steep slopes.

When you come to a stop on an incline, put the Ebrake on...when you are ready to go leave the Ebrake on, hold the revs just above 2K, start to let out the clutch, when you feel it start pulling, release the Ebrake...works like a charm once you get the hang of it. This is the correct way to launch from stops on slopes without risking drifting back into the car behind you.
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Old 05-08-2008, 10:57 AM
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You can pretty much just drop it as long as you feel the clutch grabbing =)

You don't have to slam it down immediately or anything, but you don't have to pussyfoot with it too much either =)
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Old 05-08-2008, 11:34 AM
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yeah im starting to do this also, i saw a guy on youtube how to teach people to drive stick, and he teaches on hills with his ebrake. i starting learning to do this and it does help a lot on hills
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Old 05-08-2008, 11:48 AM
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I thought everyone knew about the E-brake trick, lol that was like the first thing my dad taught me. But yeah that should pretty much do it for any hill/slope problems
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Old 05-08-2008, 12:12 PM
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I do the E-brake trick in Athens all the time when ppl get right on my back bumper or if i got a truck and trailer.
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