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Old 04-14-2008, 10:51 PM
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Burning Oil

I have a 2000 Base Prelude and it seems to burn oil more than the usual. I have 50k miles on it and got it from an older lady who never drove it hard, I am currently using full synthetic oil.

any suggestions to what the problem could be or what I could do to make the situation better
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:57 AM
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since your using full synthetic, just remember you can never go back to conventional oil....as far as the car burning oil, make sure your putting in the 5.1 quarts of oil needed....i did use the regular 5w-30 when i first got the car, i had the same problem with burning about 1-1.5 quarts of oil 800 miles before my next oil change...i started using 10w-40 and it helped a lot....even though i still get 1 quart low at about 200 miles before my oil change, its only because i push the car in vtec pretty frequently. which should be evaluated for yourself too...how much do you hit vtec and how often??? if you hit vtec a lot, this will also burn a lot of oil between oil changes...
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:04 AM
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Proof on never going back to conventional?

To the OP, how much VTEC are you using? Low mileageor not, it's an 8 year old car, things will start going bad. Try using a thicker oil. Do you change it yourself? Make sure it's not leaking around the pan, plug, filter, head, or valve cover (check on the back side too).
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHILLZ_VTEC View Post
since your using full synthetic, just remember you can never go back to conventional oil....as far as the car burning oil, make sure your putting in the 5.1 quarts of oil needed....i did use the regular 5w-30 when i first got the car, i had the same problem with burning about 1-1.5 quarts of oil 800 miles before my next oil change...i started using 10w-40 and it helped a lot....even though i still get 1 quart low at about 200 miles before my oil change, its only because i push the car in vtec pretty frequently. which should be evaluated for yourself too...how much do you hit vtec and how often??? if you hit vtec a lot, this will also burn a lot of oil between oil changes...
sorry to thread jack but if you go to synthetic blend can you go back to conventional?
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hojemwod View Post
sorry to thread jack but if you go to synthetic blend can you go back to conventional?
really??? i thought that when you use synthetic oil expands the seals in the engine...so if you were to go back to conventional oil, their would be multiple leaks....and the majority of oil companies DO NOT recommend to switch back and forth...except for the valvoline company...
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:25 AM
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Get a thinker oil will help some and throw in a can of restore. You can switch back if you want to, it not a good idea to mix the two tho.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:30 AM
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i was asking if you could or not....i got the answer thanks. i picked up synthetic blend yesterday i will have to return that and get conventional ha
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:37 AM
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That is only a myth... you can switch back and forth as frequently as you like... However, it is beneficial to let your car do a smooth transition one way or another... in other words, if you want to go from Conventional - > Synthetic, it is beneficial to do a couple of synthetic blend oil changes in between...

For instance, if you are going from conventional to synthetic
First oil change conventional
Second oil change synthetic blend (I recommend valvoline, I use it and it works great)
Third oil change synthetic blend
Fourth oil change full synthetic.

The same goes for if you are starting with a full synthetic and crossing over to conventional...

It is strictly a myth that you can't switch between them though

Carbibles... read up

Last edited by BadMofo; 04-15-2008 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hojemwod View Post
i was asking if you could or not....i got the answer thanks. i picked up synthetic blend yesterday i will have to return that and get conventional ha
oh sorry dude...misread what you wrote....but yeah, i work in a shop, and general rule of thumb is to make sure when and if a customer goes to full synthetic, that they know that going back to conventional oil may cause leaks....and may damage the internals...this is what ive been told by a couple master mechanics, so this is what i go by
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:41 AM
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in general, if one chooses to switch to full synthetic...why would you want to switch back anyway??? just asking for opinions, or for personal experiences....
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:42 AM
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Wow... sorry for the double post... that's weird because I definitely clicked "Edit"... strange...

Anyway... Have you checked if you are leaking oil???? If this granny really didn't drive the car hardly at all, your seals could be failing from sitting for so long... rubber seals and gaskets will start to deteriorate after long periods of rest... Try a thicker oil.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:47 AM
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what granny? lol I dont know who had my car before me, the engine seems to be taken car of but there seems to be a very slight leak. Im gonna try the Bar's Leak Stop and see if it works as a last resort otherwise **** it a small leak isnt a big deal; although it could turn into one. Also I think Im just gonna get the conventional again because 4 oil changes and $60 isnt worth it just to have full synthetic. thanks for the tips and everything!

Last edited by hojemwod; 04-15-2008 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:51 AM
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Ok... read this... this is important...

Mixing conventional oil and synthetic oil is fine.... AS LONG AS IT'S NOT PURE SYNTHETIC (i.e. Amsoil pure synthetic)

This is taken from car bibles...

Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - the old and busted concepts

For the longest time, I had this to say about mixing mineral and synthetic oils:

* If you've been driving around with mineral oil in your engine for years, don't switch to synthetic oil without preparation. Synthetic oils have been known to dislodge the baked-on deposits from mineral oils and leave them floating around your engine - not good. I learned this lesson the hard way! It's wise to use a flushing oil first.
* If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
* Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless.

Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - the new hotness

That's the thing with progress - stuff becomes out-of-date. Fortunately for you, dear reader, the web is a great place to keep things up-to-date, so here's the current thinking on the subject of mixing mineral and synthetic oils. This information is based on the answer to a technical question posed on the Shell Oil website.
There is no scientific data to support the idea that mixing mineral and synthetic oils will damage your engine. When switching from a mineral oil to a synthetic, or vice versa, you will potentially leave a small amount of residual oil in the engine. That's perfectly okay because synthetic oil and mineral-based motor oil are, for the most part, compatible with each other. (The exception is pure synetics. Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.)
There is also no problem with switching back and forth between synthetic and mineral based oils. In fact, people who are "in the know" and who operate engines in areas where temperature fluctuations can be especially extreme, switch from mineral oil to synthetic oil for the colder months. They then switch back to mineral oil during the warmer months.
There was a time, years ago, when switching between synthetic oils and mineral oils was not recommended if you had used one product or the other for a long period of time. People experienced problems with seals leaking and high oil consumption but changes in additive chemistry and seal material have taken care of those issues. And that's an important caveat. New seal technology is great, but if you're still driving around in a car from the 80's with its original seals, then this argument becomes a bit of a moot point - your seals are still going to be subject to the old leakage problems no matter what newfangled additives the oil companies are putting in their products.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hojemwod View Post
what granny? lol I dont know who had my car before me, the engine seems to be taken car of but there seems to be a very slight leak. Im gonna try the Bar's Leak Stop and see if it works as a last resort otherwise **** it a small leak isnt a big deal; although it could turn into one. Also I think Im just gonna get the conventional again because 4 oil changes and $60 isnt worth it just to have full synthetic. thanks for the tips and everything!
I was referring to the OP, not you... thread jacker (lol j/p)

Also... i was referring to doing the oil changes at regular intervals... not one after another, so there really would be no added cost... you'd be (hopefully) doing the oil changes anyway =)

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Old 04-15-2008, 11:03 AM
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[QUOTE=BadMofo;133622]Ok... read this... this is important...

Mixing conventional oil and synthetic oil is fine.... AS LONG AS IT'S NOT PURE SYNTHETIC (i.e. Amsoil pure synthetic)

well yeah, thats what seanperi dude was talking about...he has full synthetic now from what he says.....so going back to conventional should not happen in his case....pure synthentic and full synthetic are the same correct??? just to make sure im on the same page.....
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Old 04-15-2008, 11:07 AM
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No I don't believe they are... Pure synthetics (like Amsoil) use Polyglycols... I'm pretty sure that regular "Synthetic" oil that you can buy at any auto store is just a synthesized version of mineral oil with some beneficial additives...
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Old 04-15-2008, 11:09 AM
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Here's the difference

(Also taken from carbibles)

Synthetics

Despite their name, most synthetic derived motor oils (ie Mobil 1, Castrol Formula RS etc ) are actually derived from mineral oils - they are mostly Polyalphaolifins and these come from the purest part of the mineral oil refraction process, the gas. PAO oils will mix with normal mineral oils which means Joe public can add synthetic to his mineral, or mineral to his synthetic without his car engine seizing up. (In truth, Mobil 1 is actually made by reformulating ethanol).
The most stable bases are polyol-ester (not polyester, you fool). When I say 'stable' I mean 'less likely to react adversely with other compounds.' Synthetic oil bases tend not to contain reactive carbon atoms for this reason. Reactive carbon has a tendency to combine with oxygen creating an acid. As you can imagine, in an oil, this would be A Bad Thing. So think of synthetic oils as custom-built oils. They're designed to do the job efficiently but without any of the excess baggage that can accompany mineral based oils.

Pure synthetics

Pure synthetic oils (polyalkyleneglycol) are the types used almost exclusively within the industrial sector in polyglycol gearbox oils for heavily loaded gearboxes. These are typically concocted by intelligent blokes in white lab coats. These chaps break apart the molecules that make up a variety of substances, like vegetable and animal oils, and then recombine the individual atoms that make up those molecules to build new, synthetic molecules. This process allows the chemists to actually "fine tune" the molecules as they build them. Clever stuff. But Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.
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Old 04-18-2008, 04:30 PM
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So what is exactly is the recommended brand/weight of oil recommended for our cars (H22's)? I use Mobile 1 fully synthetic and I normallyuse 5W-30 or 10W-30. I believe the service manual recommends 10W-30.
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Old 04-18-2008, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BadMofo View Post
I was referring to the OP, not you... thread jacker (lol j/p)

Also... i was referring to doing the oil changes at regular intervals... not one after another, so there really would be no added cost... you'd be (hopefully) doing the oil changes anyway =)
o ha , sorry
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Old 04-18-2008, 08:38 PM
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all mobil 1 oils EXCEPT the European blend 0w-40 have 1 of their three base stocks made from mineral oil. This was in the paper and all the talk back in 2002-2003-ish. When they changed the look of the bottle and added "supersny technology" but the EU or somebody over there wouldnt allow false advertising and what not, so they kept that weigh [which is not commonly used over here] with all 3 bases pure non-dino/seaweed......
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