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Should I switch to Synthetic?

 
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Old 02-12-2008, 08:27 PM
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Should I switch to Synthetic?

Just picked up my 97 Prelude SH. As far as I know it has always had regular dino oil. The dealer told me the car qualified for some emissions recall that got me a free tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor and oil change). The guy I bought the car from just did an oil change with regular dyno oil at the same honda dealer. So this sounded like a good time to throw in some Amsoil. I have had very good luck with it in my WRX, especially on cold starts (-15F, its been a warm winter).

So with 81k on the motor should I do it? Thinking 5w30. The service person I spoke with questioned why I would want to use synthetic. Is there something about Honda's I don't know? I should also say I only drive the car about 5k per year. I only have a 2 mile drive to work.

Thanks.

Last edited by mnludedude; 02-13-2008 at 05:24 PM.
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Old 02-12-2008, 08:34 PM
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Ohh 2 miles to work is harsh.
Engine dose not get hot enough to burn off any impurities such as water vapor and fuel. Some how they get in to your oil. You should have no problem switching to synthed. If it leaks or burns like crazy I would switch back.
5w30 is what is recommend.
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Old 02-12-2008, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnludedude View Post
Just picked up my 97 Prelude SH. As far as I know it has always had regular dyno oil. The dealer told me the car qualified for some emissions recall that got me a free tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor and oil change). The guy I bought the car from just did an oil change with regular dyno oil at the same honda dealer. So this sounded like a good time to throw in some Amsoil. I have had very good luck with it in my WRX, especially on cold starts (-15F, its been a warm winter).

So with 81k on the motor should I do it? Thinking 5w30. The service person I spoke with questioned why I would want to use synthetic. Is there something about Honda's I don't know? I should also say I only drive the car about 5k per year. I only have a 2 mile drive to work.

Thanks.
I switched at around 75k and don't have any problems. All h22's consume oil, so you should consider that as well because Amsoil (what I use) and Mobil 1 is expensive. Stay with 5w-30 what ever you do.
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Old 02-13-2008, 02:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnludedude View Post
The dealer told me the car qualified for some emissions recall that got me a free tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor and oil change).
what were the reasons why you get a free tune up?? i drive a 97 and wouldn't mind a quick run over..

free would be fantastic..
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Old 02-13-2008, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edge2lyfe View Post
Stay with 5w-30 what ever you do.
Doesn't that have more to do with the climate he's in? The owners manual recommends either 5w-30 or 10w-30. If your in an incredibly cold climate/winter then you may want to run 0w-30. If you're in an incredibly hot climate/summer you may want to run 10w-30 and maybe even 15w-30.

I run 5w-30 year round, I've tried 10w-30 in the summer but it hurt my gas mileage and I don't think it was really hot enough to justify it. The summers are hotter here in Denver then they were in Indianapolis though, more desert like so I may try it again this summer.
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Old 02-13-2008, 01:58 PM
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yeah ludes burn oil fast, my car burned the 5w-30 about 600-800 miles before the next oil change...it was recommended to me to put in 10w-40 in my last oil change, and its been running great, im now at 800 miles before my next oil change so ill see if the change to 10w-40 helped any...
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Old 02-13-2008, 02:11 PM
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The dealer told me it was some kind of emissions recall that got me the tune up. I suspect it is also related to my mileage of 81k. Call the dealer with your vin and see what happens.
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Old 02-13-2008, 04:09 PM
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cool i'm only at 65k so i'll see what they say thx
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Old 02-13-2008, 04:17 PM
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Yeah 97 (and maybe 98, not sure though) ludes are qualified for a free emissions service, it was in a service bulletin. Your car is only allowed to do it once though, and they go by VIN, so if a previous owner already cashed in on this free service on your car, you will not be able to get it.

Also, what is "dyno oil"?

Do you mean mineral oil?
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Old 02-13-2008, 05:24 PM
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Dino Oil (what I meant, not dyno)) = Any cheap non-synthetic motor oil. Basically biodegraded dinosaurs.
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Old 02-13-2008, 08:49 PM
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Ah i got you.. that's clever, i never heard that before =P
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Old 02-14-2008, 12:32 AM
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I tryed the switch, but the synthetic never took hold in my engine. I drive nearly 15 miles to work everyday; I know it warms up enough. When my clutch was switched, they changed it back to regular, it works so much better. It was consuming too much oil(at most 8 quarts in one month). Now it only takes maybe one per month.
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Old 02-14-2008, 12:38 AM
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i have heard that if u have always used regular oil especially on older cars that switching to synthetic can be hard on ur seals and stuff. not sure how tru it is but its hearsay
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Old 02-14-2008, 01:38 AM
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i believe your right 94ludeguy...ive heard the same thing about switching to a synthetic oil in older cars after using regular oil for most of the cars lifetime....
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Old 02-14-2008, 09:52 AM
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im not switching anytime soon cuz its had regular for 180k so ill just stay with it and do a change every 3k miles. its preference if guess
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Old 02-14-2008, 10:57 PM
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i would just with 10-40. that should do the trick
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Old 02-14-2008, 11:25 PM
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I use valvoline synthetic blend and i highly recommend it.
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Old 02-14-2008, 11:50 PM
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Old 02-14-2008, 11:56 PM
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yeah...like i said i use valvoline 10-40 for cars over 75,000...and its worked with my car...does not burn too much oil prior to the next oil change...
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Old 02-15-2008, 07:55 AM
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I use 5w40 castrol edge fully synthetic oil here in SA, we never see lower that 5 degrees celcius where I stay and highs are a max of 35 degrees.

Hope I used the right oil?
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:03 PM
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Just got back from my tune up at Honda. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires, oil change. I have no idea why a tune up would not include an air filter. Runs great. Cost zero.
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:55 PM
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I wouldn't use synthetic oil in a car that has always been run on conventional oil. Unless you rebuild and replace all seals and gaskets. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 02-17-2008, 08:05 PM
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i've "heard" that if you've always used conventional oil then synthetic will make the seals leak, but thats just what i've "heard" i dont know if its true or not, but i use Mobil 1 10w-30 full synthetic and oem honda filters, since my buddy works for a honda dealership!!
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Old 02-18-2008, 02:01 AM
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synthetic is the best...10w-30
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Old 02-18-2008, 02:27 PM
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well i have 190k on my lude and i use penzoil high mileage and it doens't burn nearly as much oil as it used to... but does any one else get a lot of carbon build up on there back bumber... if so how can i fix that... obviously its runnin rich so what can i do...

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Old 03-01-2008, 01:15 AM
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I have the same problem with the carbon build-up on my rear bumper. I just think that my car needs properly tuned. I bought and it kinda has a rough idle, so that might be it. Mine has just under 71k miles.
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Old 03-01-2008, 01:28 AM
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tuning i guess would help but our cars run a little rich naturally. but thats a lot safer than being lean
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Old 03-02-2008, 02:59 AM
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If you have engine seals that are weak/gone and engine buildup is all thats keeping the oil in you could develop leaks by switching to synthetic. However I've switched a few cars over at around 250,000km with no problems.
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:32 AM
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i also have alot of carbon build up on my bumper but i think its somewhat normal.
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:18 PM
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i haven't had any issues with switching to a syn. There are many myths out there about oil for sure. Another is you cant mix dino & syn-say in a top off. Yet it states right on every bottle that i have looked at that you can. i run 0w-40 Mobil1-b/c mobil still keeps the blend like it was pre-2003 i believe which is there 100% syn bases. but i notice that some dealer's suggest 0w-20 these days. The only reason that I was given on that is it will increase fuel mileage. I know the heavier weighted oils are not "enery conserving" If you look at a bottle of oil, the seal/emblem wil say stuff like api blah, blah, and the lower 1/2 of the circle will usually say, "energy conserving." BUT when you get to heavier weight oil you lose that "certification."

Did anyone notice that Ferrarri (sp?) officially uses only Quaker State Syn oil in their cars?

the carbon on bumper is a tuning issue. If you are looking for a good high milage dino oil try the Valvaine high milaege oil. it has extra conditioners for seals and such. On my last car, i used M1 the whole time, after the break-in period was over to 100K, then i ran the Valvoline HM in it for 3500 miles, then went back to M1. At 144K miles the car burns 0 oil, unlike the prelude-which to me is weird...
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