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Old 02-06-2008, 02:13 PM
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Putting clutch in

hey guys so my clutch decided to go out on me. I have had it sitting for about a week because a guy at my work told me he would do it for 100 bucks and it would be done in 5 hours, he is our tranny guy. Well he kept putting it off and putting it off so i had it trailered to my house and me and a couple of my buddies are doing it. We have almost everything pulled that we need to, but i am very un experianced and he only knows d motors. So if you guys have any pointers that would be great. thanks in advance
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:39 PM
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i would not recommend you doing it alone if you don't have a manual and a torque wrench. the bolts have a patern and torque setting that you must follow. Also thread lock is recommended to make sure theres no slippage once you do the final torque down...you should ALWAYS resurface the flywheel when changing a clutch, or whatever damage that the flywheel has will be passed on to your new clutch and thus shortening clutch life

Soo....don't do it unless you know what you're doing, lol...
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:45 PM
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thanks for the tips.... And thats why i got my buddy helping me he does this all the time but has never gotten the chance to do it to an h motor on of my friends with that has changed his clutch on his 97 lude is coming into town to help so that is good news.
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:50 PM
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It shouldn't be very much different from a d motor to an h motor. Most important thing is to follow the instructions/torque specs that are in the honda technician manual. And like said before... replace or resurface your flywheel is a MUST.
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:55 PM
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ok a guy from work told me if the flywheel is not to bad to just rub it with sand paper in a circular motion???? would that work or should i take it to o reillys for 30 bucks.
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Old 02-06-2008, 03:23 PM
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no, for your own good, get the flywheel resurfaced, or buy a new one completely.
the clutch needs a perfect surface to grab onto, which can't be accomplished by sanding it by hand
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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 02-06-2008, 03:23 PM
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take it someplace where they can resurface it (like a brake rotor). Rubbing it with sandpaper in a circular motion isn't gonna do dick lol.

Edit: Damn you Neck!
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Old 02-06-2008, 05:50 PM
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lol you'll do more damage than good if you hand sand or machine sand, what you'll wear off- if anything before losing your arm- will be minimal and unbalanced- it won't create a flush surfice- its got to be done at a shop to make sure its accurate and even THEN when they set the wheel down to have it surficed, if its put down wrong or leaning or anything that makes it set wrong, the resurfacing can come out wrong... just take it to a good shop that does them regularly or advertises doing it- othershops will do it as a side job or don't really do them and don't care much care in how important precise resurfacing is!
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Old 02-06-2008, 09:40 PM
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ok thanks guys im in need of some urgent help now we are about 90 percent done. we need to get the axles dropped now but the lower ball joint nut is stuck we cant get it right now we are trying to soak it with some wd 40 if that does not work is their another way to drop the axle??? thanks for the help guys
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Old 02-06-2008, 09:49 PM
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get a bigger wrench/cheater bar. they're only on there to 40 lb-ft, which shouldn't pose too much of a problem.
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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 02-06-2008, 10:16 PM
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i will try that but an impact wrench wouldnt even budge it...
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Old 02-06-2008, 10:46 PM
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ok we just went and took the upper ball joints instead of the lowers we have both axles out and are starting to get ready to drop the tranny we are on day 2 now lol
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:17 PM
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dont sweat it bro. just 12 bolts or something, jiggle the tranny off the output shaft, unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel, take clutch out, unbolt flywheel, get it resurfaced/install new one, install pressure plate and clutch, line it up w/ the aligning tool, jiggle tranny back on, and reverse the entire process
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2007 Sea-Doo RXT 215; ET 127 +3 S/C impeller, DIY 3" intake, DIY resonator delete/free flow exhaust, DIY oil catch can, Rule 500gph bilge pump


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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:32 PM
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dont get that resurfaced. get a new lightweight flywheel
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:43 PM
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ummm one axle came out and the one on the driver side wont... could someone tell me the easiest way to take it out? after that we should be good. once again thanks for all the help

i would love to get a light weight flywheel but im beyond broke right now my dad bought me the clutch and i have to pay him back in a couple of pay checks...
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Old 02-07-2008, 01:34 AM
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get either a GIANT flathead screwdriver, or a prybar, or something of the liking, and wedge it between the really fat part @ the end of the axle, and the intermediate shaft bracket, and pry the axle out. be careful not to mess up the splines on the end of the axle.
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2005 Stage2.5+ Subaru WRB STi : RzKar!
Ivey Tuned - Advan - Cobb - Rallispec - CP - Perrin - ACT - KillerB - Carillo - TurboXS - Defi - Innovate - Walbro - DeatschWerks - Feal - H&R - Alpine - Infiniti - Curt

2001 Kawasaki STX1100 D.I. - Sold!
2007 Sea-Doo RXT 215; ET 127 +3 S/C impeller, DIY 3" intake, DIY resonator delete/free flow exhaust, DIY oil catch can, Rule 500gph bilge pump


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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 02-10-2008, 03:21 PM
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ok so i have decide after all this work i am going to get a light wheight flywheel just because i have been down a car for about a week and a half now and i want to be able to have some fun with her when i get it back and broken in... so im getting an 8 lb. fidenza flywheel will that work with a factory replacement clutch because i found a stage 3 w/ 11lb flywheel for 250? what do you guys recomend
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Old 02-10-2008, 05:37 PM
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i think stage 3 will be over kill for a DD oem or stage 1 would be the best bet
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Old 02-10-2008, 10:57 PM
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Stage 2 or 3 is a bit overkill unless you're doing a serious N/A build or boosting. OEM clutch or stage 1 will be fine for bolt ons and/or some minor engine work. (But to answer your question, all of the above will work just fine with the Fidanza 8 pounder)

Also, what brand clutch/flywheel did you find, 250 sounds kinda cheap, I'm assuming F1 racing? Drivetrain is really somethin you wanna go for quality with... Exedy, Fidanza, ACT, Clutchmasters, Center Force, and LSD are some good brands for our cars that come to mind off the top of my head. (Exedy/Daikin Clutch come highly recommended by me, especially since they make the OEM Honda clutch on our cars)

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Old 02-11-2008, 12:13 AM
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its an exedy stage one clutch and a fidinza flywheel brand new or i could get the f1 racing stage 3 and 10 pound fly wheel for 250
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:47 AM
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well, here is where you're gonna split some people down the middle.

Of the two packages you have listed there, the Exedy/Fidanza combo is the more reputable of the two... definitely

But on the other hand, the Fidanza flywheel is only 8 lb and it normally causes a pretty big debate in here when it's brought up. About half the people on here find the 8 lb flywheel to be too light and no good for a daily driver, and then the other half find it to be just fine for a daily driver, and extremely fun/fulfilling when pushin it. From what I understand, you have to load a little bit extra RPM onto it during stop and go driving, and to some people this gets annoying... Also, some people have problems going up steep hills with the fidanza flywheel, since it's so light, it takes less energy to get it going... but it also takes less energy to slow it down/make it stop (making you stall out), so you have to go up hills in a lower gear/higher in your rpm range, launch at a little bit higher, etc... But to some people, this extra effort is worth the performance payout (much faster revs up and down the power band). I, personally, just bought an Exedy Stage 1 and Fidanza 8 lb flywheel... but then again, I'm willing to tough through the extra effort, to get to the fun performance payout =). So really, you gotta find out what is right for you.

As far as the brands, like I said, I don't really recommend F1 or XTD because I've heard some horror stories, but I have never personally used one so I really can't say for sure, just going off of hearsay. Exedy/Daikin Clutch, on the other hand, is a GREAT clutch company, with a long history of import performance clutches.

Read this post for an expanded discussion on flywheel weight vs effort to start out from a standstill.

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Old 02-11-2008, 09:01 PM
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ok so im getting ready to order the exedy set up the higher revving doesn't really matter to me i could handle that for the performance i get out of it... but so now my problem is we got most of the bolts out of the tranny i think that i might have missed a couple... my Chilton book says to take out the intake manifold bracket is that necessary? but other than that i am almost done i wish i didnt have to work everyday i would have had it done along time ago by now but we just have to work for a couple hours every night...
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Old 02-11-2008, 09:40 PM
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<---- exedy stage 1 + fidanza 8 pound'er. the FW is a lil bit of a PITA in bumper to bumper traffic, but for the amount of times i'm in that kinda traffic, its worth it. i love it.
a stage 3 clutch is wayyyyy overkill on an almost stock motor.


i think they tell you to remove the IM bracket to make it easier to get to the bolts right near the rear engine mount.
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2001 Kawasaki STX1100 D.I. - Sold!
2007 Sea-Doo RXT 215; ET 127 +3 S/C impeller, DIY 3" intake, DIY resonator delete/free flow exhaust, DIY oil catch can, Rule 500gph bilge pump


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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:49 PM
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oh... well then i dont need to worry about then i already got those pulled i just can find the last couple of bolts holding the tranny on... lol i love the lude but it really likes to piss me off when it desides to start breaking it does it good lol its just one problem after another
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:55 PM
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yea man, i hear you on the one problem after another thing, but once you get her on the road again, you'll realize that all that hard work payed off


if you're pretty sure you got all the bolts off, then it just might be "stuck" or "crusted" to the engine. it takes a fair amount of wiggling to remove it from the engine. if you can wiggle it just a tiny bit, then you got all the bolts off and you just need to muscle it off.
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2005 Stage2.5+ Subaru WRB STi : RzKar!
Ivey Tuned - Advan - Cobb - Rallispec - CP - Perrin - ACT - KillerB - Carillo - TurboXS - Defi - Innovate - Walbro - DeatschWerks - Feal - H&R - Alpine - Infiniti - Curt

2001 Kawasaki STX1100 D.I. - Sold!
2007 Sea-Doo RXT 215; ET 127 +3 S/C impeller, DIY 3" intake, DIY resonator delete/free flow exhaust, DIY oil catch can, Rule 500gph bilge pump


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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 02-12-2008, 09:53 AM
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Also, when in doubt, use the technician manual that is on this here website... it is better than Chiltons.... much more comprehensive. It should be in a sticky at the top of the 5th gen forum. Here is the link
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Old 02-12-2008, 10:17 PM
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oh i completly missed that thanks man you guys are a ton of help
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