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Clutch Pedal Height + Engagement Point

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Old 03-01-2018, 09:47 PM
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Icon5 Clutch Pedal Height + Engagement Point

Hello everyone!

An automatic to manual swap was done on my 1997 Prelude Base approximately one year ago. At the time we used a donor 97 prelude manual base we took all original parts from and basically "copied".
New Parts during the swap:
-Exedy OEM Clutch + Flywheel + Bearing
-Daikin Slave Cylinder (amazon)
-Daikin Master Cylinder (amazon)

Recently just swapped h23a VTEC Blue top, converted OBDII using p5m stock ECU. Love it.
Recently just put in a new stage 1 exedy clutch. Love the clutch.

HOWEVER I have one problem.
One little quirky problem that has been bothering me since the swap.

By the way I've already used 3 different transmissions in this one year time span. And I've also used the 162$ EXEDY OEM + HD Flywheel from ebay.
1st transmission - Stock tranny that crapped out on me. Tossed.
2nd transmission - used some accord tranny as a temporary replacement as I had to move and drive my car from Georgia to California for a military move. Tossed it. (It had 3rd gear grinds. LMAO)
3rd transmission - Rebuilt tranny from SYNCROTECH California, with carbon SYNCROS. Love it.

Clutch Pedal Engagement point is so high and SO CLOSE towards me, the driver. There is SO MUCH distance from the firewall.

Yes i know how to adjust. There are two things:
-The Bolt and rod that connects directly to the Master Cylinder (poking through the firewall) adjusts engagement point...
-The bublous switch that you can twist on top the pedal (adjusts the pedal position).

Welp..... the Master Cylinder rod locknut is already MAXED. I mean theres no more thread to keep going. Thats as closest to the firewall I can get it (counter clockwise). Going clockwise will just make the engagement point go higher towards me the driver.

Over adjusting the switch on top the pedal, will definitely lower the pedal... HOWEVER.... it will force the clutch to be ENGAGED causing high RPMS without acceleration.. Basically burning the clutch.....

Another symptom i've noticed...
In the mornings or if the car has been sitting 4+ hours, especially colds start.... The clutch engagement point is LOWER, closer towards the firewall (I love it). However the clutch feels MUSHIER and softer, and I also cannot shift into ONE from neutral or stop light, unless i go to 2nd gear, then 1st gear.

After 15 minutes of driving (las vegas) and after the car is all warmed up, the clutch gets STIFFER. The engagement point goes HIGHER (where i HATE IT!!!). Although, by stiffer, theres definitely GOOD PRESSURE, and i can easily go into 1ST GEAR from neutral.

But that is just DANG weird. I dont see any leaks from the slave (by the transmisson/radiator) or master cylinder (firewall). The dot 3 brake fluid levels is also GOOD!!!

I just dont get why the engagement point is so high.
Honestly my next idea was to make CUSTOM THREADING on the master cylinder, which will enable me to turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE deeper. Meaning engagement point will go towards the firewall more. But that is not the right way to do it. There should be some other problems...

Top - MY CLUTCH PEDAL. YES THE ENGAGEMENT POINT IS LITERALLY THAT HIGH. If I adjust it any lower, my clutch will not disengage properly!!!
Bottom - A stranger's clutch pedal that I met somewhere in L.A. lmao.

Last edited by wasabi4u; 03-01-2018 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 06-05-2018, 02:16 AM
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Re: Clutch Pedal Height + Engagement Point

hey man slightly off topic, just wondering which front lip that is, like as far as what to search for, thanks.
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:37 PM
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Re: Clutch Pedal Height + Engagement Point

Few questions:

Is the clutch pedal indeed from a 5th generation Prelude?

Are you using a braided hydraulic line from your slave to master cylinders or some other method for the line?

The pedal looks odd to me. The rod should not protrude that far out and still have your clutch pedal sit higher than the brake pedal.
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:47 PM
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Re: Clutch Pedal Height + Engagement Point

Read about the spacers. This may help?
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