Honda Prelude Forum
 
Go Back   Honda Prelude Forum > Tech-Talk > 5th Gen Honda Prelude

Thread Title
Alternator and Battery question...

 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2007, 10:48 AM
Not So New
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 36
iTrader: (0)
Ijaz is on a distinguished road
Alternator and Battery question...

Hey guys, just got a few questions, hopefully someone can help me out. I am planning on putting in my sound system in December and basically need alot of power going to my system as well as being able to support my other electrical components in the car as well. I was told the best thing to do would be to upgrade the battery to a Yellow-top Optima an aftermarket altenator and upgrading the grounds under the hood.

I have 2 of the three things, but still need a high-output alternator. Can anyone point one out for me, or give me a link to where I can order it?

Your help is appreciated.
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2007, 11:50 AM
mizlude's Avatar
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,045
iTrader: (1)
mizlude has a reputation beyond reputemizlude has a reputation beyond reputemizlude has a reputation beyond reputemizlude has a reputation beyond reputemizlude has a reputation beyond reputemizlude has a reputation beyond reputemizlude has a reputation beyond reputemizlude has a reputation beyond reputemizlude has a reputation beyond reputemizlude has a reputation beyond reputemizlude has a reputation beyond repute
Send a message via AIM to mizlude Send a message via Yahoo to mizlude
i think the accord v6 ones have a higher amp and will fit on the prelude but dont quote me on that.
__________________
mike the miz



Club Ultimate Sleeper

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pooponurhead View Post
Thanks for lookin' out man.
Still love ya mike...no homo

Quote:
Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
that wasn't an earthquake, that was tedd's mom throwing a fit because she was out of twinkies.
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2007, 11:52 AM
1BadBB6's Avatar
I </3 Your Fake Wheels
ROTY `10!
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Knoxvegas
Posts: 4,876
iTrader: (32)
1BadBB6 has a reputation beyond repute1BadBB6 has a reputation beyond repute1BadBB6 has a reputation beyond repute1BadBB6 has a reputation beyond repute1BadBB6 has a reputation beyond repute1BadBB6 has a reputation beyond repute1BadBB6 has a reputation beyond repute1BadBB6 has a reputation beyond repute1BadBB6 has a reputation beyond repute1BadBB6 has a reputation beyond repute1BadBB6 has a reputation beyond repute
how many watts are you pushin? bc unless you are pushin an insane amount you don't need a higher amp alternator. a good way to start would be using 0 gauge wiring and a really good extra dry cell battery.
__________________


1BadBB6, on Flickr

Like my photos? Buy them here: KTColePhotos

Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2007, 11:54 AM
Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 231
iTrader: (0)
Brute is on a distinguished road
You pretty much have to call performance shops on that one- you've got to make sure that the alternator puts out the amount of amps it claims to, so wherever you get it from make sure they give you a test receipt because alot of the times if you buy a cheap amp they'll claim it puts out 200 amps but really only does 140....i'm not sure how much juice you'll need but i would suggest keeping the stock alternator, upgrade to the yellow top and get a CAPACITOR instead, which what it basically is is a small battery that charges itself up from the out put power of the car and ONLY powers your sound system- they look mighty cool too =D.....from my experience with muscle cars, good alternators can run you about 400 for true 200 amp out put, a capacitor thats really good will run you about 200
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2007, 08:03 AM
Not So New
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 36
iTrader: (0)
Ijaz is on a distinguished road
Well, the system that I am pushing is rated at 2000W peaks, and 700W RMS, and that is just the subwoofer itself. I also have components and coaxials going in the back along with a 4 channel amp rated at 600W RMS. I already have the battery and 0 gauge wires being taken care of. The reason why I didn't want a capacitor was because of alot of bad reviews about them in general.

I was planning on just running a distro block in the back, along with the battery, 0 gauge wires, and a good alternator to support the power demands...
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2007, 09:23 AM
yogi_pahl's Avatar
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: I'm on a boat
Posts: 2,274
iTrader: (1)
yogi_pahl has a reputation beyond reputeyogi_pahl has a reputation beyond reputeyogi_pahl has a reputation beyond reputeyogi_pahl has a reputation beyond reputeyogi_pahl has a reputation beyond reputeyogi_pahl has a reputation beyond reputeyogi_pahl has a reputation beyond reputeyogi_pahl has a reputation beyond reputeyogi_pahl has a reputation beyond reputeyogi_pahl has a reputation beyond reputeyogi_pahl has a reputation beyond repute
Send a message via AIM to yogi_pahl Send a message via Yahoo to yogi_pahl
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute View Post
You pretty much have to call performance shops on that one- you've got to make sure that the alternator puts out the amount of amps it claims to, so wherever you get it from make sure they give you a test receipt because alot of the times if you buy a cheap amp they'll claim it puts out 200 amps but really only does 140....i'm not sure how much juice you'll need but i would suggest keeping the stock alternator, upgrade to the yellow top and get a CAPACITOR instead, which what it basically is is a small battery that charges itself up from the out put power of the car and ONLY powers your sound system- they look mighty cool too =D.....from my experience with muscle cars, good alternators can run you about 400 for true 200 amp out put, a capacitor thats really good will run you about 200
x2 i don't think with all that you will need a new alternator id say looking to one just don't get it yet, drive around for a week or so and see if the batter holds up if it does you saved some cash and if it doesn't your not out anything its just a lil safer way to go
__________________

^^MY DREAM CAR Made by muha22752
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, with a beer in one hand, shouting "Whoo, what a ride!.
I'm no rocket surgeon ok It's not what i say but what i mean you got to read my mind to understand meŠ
GPC member #5
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2007, 10:40 AM
nevrdun's Avatar
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,432
iTrader: (1)
nevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond repute
You have no need for an alternator upgrade. Do the big three under hood. Upgreade ground from batt to body, engine to batt and output of alternator to pos of batt in 2 ga or even 0 ga. Upgrade to a high quality batt like kinetik or something of the sort. I personally am not a fan of optima lot of defects for the money and slower charge rate. If yoiu still find this insufficient buy a capacitor. There is nothing wrong with using them. I have a JL 300/4 and RF T500-1bd and no issues with charging and have upgraded to 2ga under hood and an Exide Purple haze batt. Right now at our shop we have JL audio's corperate show car (Volkswagen GTI) and it has an absurd amount of power (2 1000/1 and 2 300/2) and when running gets real loud before its current is insufficient with a stock alternator. Also a second battery is not a good option unless you listen to your stereo with the car off. Other than that the other battery is just a load on your charging system.
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2007, 01:11 AM
vervuurt's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Netherlands Antilles
Posts: 77
iTrader: (0)
vervuurt will become famous soon enoughvervuurt will become famous soon enough
Send a message via MSN to vervuurt
Icon5

I have a question.
I have a sound system with an amp that has 500 RMS and the wire that runs to it has an 60 AMP on it.
I have no capacitor installed.
The problem is every time a bass beat hits in, my lightning in my car and also out of my car is fading away.
Any suggestions anyone????
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2007, 02:38 AM
nevrdun's Avatar
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,432
iTrader: (1)
nevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond reputenevrdun has a reputation beyond repute
You need to refer to what has been said previously. The reason youir lights are dimming is because your charging system is suffering. By upgrading yoiur wiring under the hood you are allowing your charging system to breath basically. Since you have no cap your source of quick high amperage draw (loud bass note) is your battery. Since your charging system (alternator, wiring, terminals, battery) is not designed for this quick battery discharge your voltage drops by a few volts and the only way you actually know this is you see the lights dim. By upgrading the wiring and battery you are allowing this quick discharge to affect your car less. The battery can be replentished more quickly from the alternator and your ground between the battery and the vehicle will allow a large amount of electrons to flow more freely. A larger capacity battery will also take the strain off my allowing a larger draw to affect it less.
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2007, 02:56 AM
Brash's Avatar
Super Roo mod

 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The Lucky Country
Posts: 5,846
iTrader: (2)
Brash has a reputation beyond reputeBrash has a reputation beyond reputeBrash has a reputation beyond reputeBrash has a reputation beyond reputeBrash has a reputation beyond reputeBrash has a reputation beyond reputeBrash has a reputation beyond reputeBrash has a reputation beyond reputeBrash has a reputation beyond reputeBrash has a reputation beyond reputeBrash has a reputation beyond repute
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ijaz View Post
Well, the system that I am pushing is rated at 2000W peaks, and 700W RMS, and that is just the subwoofer itself. I also have components and coaxials going in the back along with a 4 channel amp rated at 600W RMS. I already have the battery and 0 gauge wires being taken care of. The reason why I didn't want a capacitor was because of alot of bad reviews about them in general.
I run about that power, and on the standard battery and alternator. No problems here.
__________________

Request for rep = NO REP. Kthxbi. IF YOU ASK A STUPID QUESTION, OR MAKE A STUPID STATEMENT, YOU WILL GET A STUPID ANSWER!

FIFTH GENERATION RESOURCE GUIDE <<<-- USE IT, USE IT, USE IT!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:47 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
LinkBacks Enabled by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2 © 2011, Crawlability, Inc.
vB.Sponsors


Copyright © 2006-2009 PreludeZone.com All Rights Reserved.