Guyzzzzz!
Every time I go over a speed bump, I get a clearly audible spring creaking sound from my 2 front shocks/struts/springs. And my two front tires are having excessive wear on the outer-side of the tread.

Will you please make a judgement on my suspension baseD on the pictures that I have attached. (They are not the greatest shots but this is the best I can do at the moment).

~~~~~HOVER OVER PICTURES TO KNOW WHICH TIRE IT IS~~~~~

I have been wanting to get new suspension ever since I got the car, but I don't got enough Mulla. If I go cheap(er) (like ~$350ish) I am afraid that I will have to spend more later to replace them again if go out. That is why I was looking at Form and Function Type 2 coils for $900 (hoping they will last long). But I know nothing. Please don't get mad/upset I have read that people on PZ getting koni sturts/GC springs. Stock brand new suspension is more expensive than brand new Coilovers.


Taking to Mechanic Monday or Tuesday. I took it 2 Saturdays ago, he test drove it in the parking lot and he said suspension is fine, (he was too busy to look it over in depth that day)

But as I stated before due to the front tire wear and the noise I am not convinced that the suspension is fine.

(I also feel that my car is much lower than stock, and it is on stock suspension, so they must be pretty worn)

A Tire Rotation is also needed, Riiight?

in need of yall's input.



***Thinking of doing a HOW TO: paintless dent repair within few weeks***



Thanks!

Attached Images

	Front Left.jpg (63.5 KB, 9 views)
	Front Right.jpg (52.8 KB, 7 views)
	Hand Front Left.jpg (56.1 KB, 8 views)
	Hand Front Right.jpg (49.6 KB, 8 views)
	Hand Rear Left.jpg (49.2 KB, 7 views)
	Hand Rear Right.jpg (48.4 KB, 6 views)
	Rear Left.jpg (42.8 KB, 8 views)
	Rear Right.jpg (59.2 KB, 6 views)

Take it to an alignment shop that uses a computer and prints out the results.
I use a local tire America.
They'll tell ya what's going on. And get 'em to rotate your tires.
We rotate tires because left and right turns wear the outside edges of the front ones.

Reset the little 'oil change' indicator on the cluster and use that to gauge your tire rotation schedule. Unless you do all city driving that schedule should keep your tire wear nice and even. It changes to red every 7500 miles.
If all city miles and it's driven nearly everyday use a 'rotate every season' rule of thumb.

Now if you go to a big chain alignment shop they give a warranty on the alignment. So you go in every season to get your alignment checked (at no charge) and give 'em $20 to rotate your tires (usually $5-10 each) as a thank you.


^^ stock height.
As you can see there isn't a lot of gap. The center cap would not fit between the fender and the tire, yet the 4 finger side by side thing is about as tall as the center cap.

Now as far as squeaks and sounds are concerned, it's likely just bushing fatigue. As in the rubber that separates metal parts has gotten all squashed or brittle over time.

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God's Not Dead

Alright, will do.

What do you think about the Suspension noise? @bykfixer

Turn up the radio...

Nah, seriously, if the car used to sit a lot or a while before you bought it the noises will go away over time.

When I put new tires on mine, I did the break in thing by driving on the interstate for an hour at the same speed. When I left the shop it had squeaks, buzzes, clunks and popping sounds. By the time I arrived home they were nearly all gone. I still have the trunk clunk noise because I've been too lazy to install new top bushings.

Now if you hear scraping, grinding or other metal to metal noises, that's more than an annoyance..it's a sign something needs attention asap.

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*slight sigh of relief, thanks.
I'll see what the mechanic says, since he could actually see the car in person.
Hopefully the this tiny hole in my pocket won't grow drastically (at least in a month and a half)

Thanks!

And oh yeah one more thing, My car only sits for about 5-6 hours and it only makes the sound when going over our school parking lot's speed bumps. I think sometimes it hits the bottom portion of the fender.

So your car is a taxi 18-19 hours a day? No wonder it sags, creaks n squeaks!!!

You say it only sits 5-6 hours.lol

It sounds like you have a perfectly normal 14 year old car.

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my car's weekday taxi schedule:

1st service starts @ 6:30 am
1st service ends @ 6:40-45 am (Then my car takes a oil piss break)

2nd service starts @ 12:10 pm (this is when I go over speed bumps and it creaks and bumps)
2nd service ends @ 12:27 pm (oil piss break)

3rd service starts @ 5:00 pm
3rd service ends @ 5:15 pm (oil piss break)

And then it starts all over again

So yeah...
Oh and I haven't Really Vteced in my pissing taxi yet, just FYI.


Based on what you heard, New suspension or naw, what you think?
@bykfixer: Is your son on PZ?

If you feel you struts are going bad, just do the ole' push rebound test. Just go to each corner of the car and using a quick push, push down hard on the car with both hands (with out denting the panel)(fenders in the front, trunk corners in the rear) and see how the car returns back to its stock height. If you push and the car comes straight back up and stops firm, they are ok. If you push and it has a bouncing to it and creaks bad while doing it, they are most likely worn out and needs replaced.
If you like function and form, don't rule out the Type 1. A lot of people use them and they hold up very well. They are also more around the $500 range.. but dont forget if you are going to drop your car you can't just throw coil overs on it and call it a day. You need camber kits and make sure the rest of your suspension is adjustable in an alignment or your tires will not last and the ride will suck.

Besides that, as mentioned, it is probably worn bushing making the noises.. you really just need an alignment bad for that tire wear your getting

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ThundagooseBB6- 1998 Base SC

Based on your initial posts and follow ups, I honestly believe you want to upgrade your suspension.

But being days away from being 51 years old, I have forgotten what it's like to think like a person who just got their first sports car. Now I will say this, my first car was a 4 door grocery getter that I sold for a poj mustang. To this day I wish I had that 77 Nova 4 door grocery getter. But dummy me, I bought a poj prelude because I missed the poj mustang too...

Back to your point...you sound like suspension upgrade is in your top 5...cool. but save your dough and get the good stuff. Learn about how they affect handling vs ride quality vs durability etc... And say in 6 months or when you've accumulated a 4" stack of $20 bills, start shopping. In the meantime enjoy what you have.
My opinion is you probably don't need more than say, shocks and a few bushings here or there..or maybe not even that.
My suspension has 237xxx miles and still "works" just fine.
Like new? Oh heavens no! But I can still drive faster than I care to admit and keep it between the ditches (when it's actually running.lol)

Elspectro29 is my son.

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Thanks guys!

@ThundagooseBB6: If that's the best way to know then my lude is fine, it is still really stiff, if I push down it comes back up with no rebound.
Adjustability, that is the reason why I prefer the type 2's.
They got the extra good stuff.

@bykfixer: Suspension is in my top 5, however I need to correct a misunderstanding.
Ever since I got the car and tillI get my Bachelors I do not WANT get new suspension, but if I must get new suspension I will most likely go with Function and Form Type 2's.
I NEED to keep the little flour (not dough yet) that I make in my pocket (where it belongs). I will be attend University soon and I don't want my parents to pay for everything. You see, I'm sure you WILL agree, if parents pay for University and everything that comes with it, they have all the rights in the world to have control over it. Freedom is not free, there is a price, and if my parents pay the price...It is clearly seen that my freedom is in their hands. Na-mean. I only want to spend money if I NEED to, that money goes for maintenance and absolute necessary parts. And if want something I will go get it myself, I don't need anybody's concern. Nam say'n.

Thanks again guys!

I had the type 2 on my Accord and honestly for daily driving around town they arent worth the extra money imo.. I liked them but wouldnt buy them again for just street use. But if you are dead set on them by all means go for it. They won't dissapoint.

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ThundagooseBB6- 1998 Base SC

I have a very loud, almost constant squeaking noise like that constantly coming from my rear passenger side shock (i hear it from driving over cracks in the road). I'm fairly positive it's a bushing, but i haven't gotten around to inspecting it further or replacing it. You should be fine, and don't worry about replacing the suspension unless you really want to.

Alright then. It's probably just bushings. Thanks you all!

In order to solve my noisy suspension (when I go over speed bumps), I should (according to bykfixer):

Dude, when I was your age, I'd go to my pop and say "dad, the water pump is squealing" he'd say "turn up the radio"...then "dad, my valves are pinging and he 'd say "turn up the radio"..."dad, my brakes are making a grinding sound"...you guessed it...
He knew old cars make funky noises. Yet to this day, squeaks, rattles and buzzes drive me nuts. So I investigate the cause and fix what needs fixing at my (turtle) pace unless it's metal to metal...then I either get right on it or take it to a shop.

Now I'll tell ya a story of why you should enquire why it's making noises...
My car used to make a random clicking noise..click..click click click....click....in a non distinct pattern that sounded like it was coming from the power steer pump when I was driving. Nobody could tell me what it was. I drove the car all over the place. I gave it to my son who drove it 5000 miles in a few months. He says " it's a motor mount"...I get the car back and go about fixing everything that makes any odd noises...but now the clicking sound was joined by a squeaking sound in concert with the clicking..
God told me to check my ATTS delete adapter plate. So we put it on jack stands and put it in gear and OH MY STARZ!!! The freaking delete plate is loose...no wait, it's broken, not broken, it's held on by 1 screw that's backing out!!!!

I found a new plate and some bolts, then replaced the set up. The click was the plate flapping against the block. The squeak was the half shaft bearing in disintigration mode from all the weird angles the plate bound it up in...



^^ the state of the plate at that time.


^^ this was the plate.


^^ the 1 bolt holding things together...


^^ this is how it's supposed to look.

So yeah, always ask if you don't know.

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God's Not Dead

@bykfixer:
My dad isn't really a car guy, but he knows the right people (like a reputable mechanic)
Sometimes I just take matters into my own hands and avoid the bother, & all goes well (and I learn something new, win-win).

Yeah about that ATTS...(you probably already know) mines not working. The ATTS light is on.
Previous owner said that it stop working/light came on after replacing the clutch...
Don't know what the problem exactly is, but right now it gets me from point a to point b.
However, I would reeeaaly like to fix it.

The ATTS is kinda like an anti crash device that keeps you between the ditches when you are in over your head.
At all other times it's just a thing that hangs around un-noticed.

If you don't have the service manual download one from the diy section and check out the ATTS chapter (15?)...it's daunting...but light coming on after a clutch swap is a major clue as to why.

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Thanks for the lead, got the service manual al'ready, yea.

Thanks for the lead, got the service manual al'ready, yea.

our Ludes stock springs and struts/shocks should outlast the life of the car. Many people change them to get a lower ride. Your problem is bushing related. Check all 4 endlinks and sway bar bushings to start.

I get more noises when it's cold, rather then hot.

^^ this

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Whenever I cross a hill-like intersection going like 45mph, I bottom out. it feels like the front and rear end slam on the road OR it feels like my suspension travels to the max and it goes thud.
(My car is NOT lowered)
I am hoping it will at least last me 2 more months so I could save up for quality parts.
I can manage, like driving slower. Do yall skip gears? After putting Chevron 93 octane in my 'lude it feels like my fuel gauge meter gained some speed as well.

Hello...Anybody...Here...?

(Crickets...Crick...ets)

Top 3 reasons why you should slow down at intersections:
1) Red light runners
2) Red light runners
3) Refer to 1 & 2

Never, never, never assume other people are paying attention! Always, always, always assume other people drive like idiots.
People text, they put on make up, converse with the other folks in the car, think of their job, are in a hurry, and generally assume they are the only person on the entire planet.
It's called center of the universe syndrome and if you aren't careful you'll be starting another thread on how your car was murdered by some crazy so n so who crashed into your car.

If the speed limit is 45 at an intersection, that doesn't mean you have to be going 45. Now don't cause wrecks slowing down, but say, 38-42mph gives you a ton more reaction time.

I work on roads for a living. My last project was an intersection with 300,000 cars a day.
Figuring 12 hours of heavy traffic that's more than 20,000 per hour, or roughly 333 per minute. Speed limit is 45 in all directions.
The crazy part of the 5-10 wrecks per day (every day) is that most occured during non busy hours.
In the 10-12 hours we worked near the intersection we rarely saw a crash. (When we did it was usually a doozie.) But after 5 pm the real craziez come out I suppose.

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True, but my suspension should NOT be bottoming out either way. Got an appointment with the mechanic tomorrow.

*Sigh...

Reconsidering the coil-overs, they are expensive.
I'm not sure what kind of spring/strut/shock combo i should go with, still researching.
Even harder cause it is a Type-SH.

Just go buy some coilovers!!!!

Your original pz posts were enquiring what are good coil overs. You say it's because your suspension is shot.
In the process of purchasing a 2001 Honda Prelude Type-SH
Person after person has said it is not. You start new thread... Again, you are told there is nothing wrong.
So you go and find ways to make sure it's shot.

Seriously! Just buy the things and be done with it matt.

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