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H22A swap

 
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:48 PM
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H22A swap

This thread is for anyone researching a possible engine swap. DO IT!
This engine is what the car should have had all along, makes it a great car. Much better low end drivability. Good power. Great gas mileage (Denso "Irridium Power" plugs help here- I'm sure).

I live in a state where you want to change the engine over to the US style OBD2 emissions system. This can be done fairly easily, but be aware some of the simple sounding jobs can be involved.

Here is what I had to change over;
+US wire harness (some of the clips can be challenging for large fumbly hands)
+US Distributor
+Coil (separate on US)
+Thermostat housing (JDM interferes with US coil)
+Injectors (JDM low impedance, non compatible with US electrics)
+VSS sensor
+V-tec solenoid (US one has an extra plug on it- to match US harness)
+oil pump (under everything, and then you need to drop the oil pan!)
+CKP/TDC sensors (you need to change oil pump to mount them)
+Balance shaft gears (the US ones trip the CKP/TDC sensors- JDM won't!)

Some folks swap over the US throttle body and intake manifold. I kept the JDM. The TB opening is 13% bigger. The vacuum port on the JDM TB is smaller. I got a CEL light saying EVAP wasn't flowing enough. Eventually, I T-eed in an extra vacuum source, and the CEL is off.

I found a "Top Fuel" (JDM tuner) air intake on Ebay- very cool, and solved the size mis match from the bigger throttle body. Also, think it helps my very good low end.

While you have the motor out, think about putting in new stuff that's buried under the engine. Fuel filter, power steering hoses, heater hoses. If you have an SH, think about replacing the oil cooler hoses, and the other cooling hoses.

I used my US ECU and ATTS box.

Took a little while to get some details right;
-For a few days, idling was an issue. I got a new IAC valve that just seemed to work better that the other two. Be warned, the JDM TB does NOT have an idle speed screw like the US version does. The new valve, and a few starts on the ECU did the trick.
-At first, the throttle would stick shut after the car sat overnight. This was just first thing- before start up. After a week, it was fine. Probably a result of the engine sitting for a few years.
-Vtec transition was real sticky for a while- again, probably because the engine sat.

Now I am all smiles, whenever I drive the car.
Look forward to an exhaust upgrade…let it loose up top
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Old 10-23-2014, 01:08 PM
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Re: H22A swap

The swap passed Connecticut emissions today, no problem.
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:01 AM
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Re: H22A swap

Any pictures of how you T'd in the throttle body vacuum port? What Check Engine light were you getting?
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Old 10-27-2014, 12:00 AM
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Re: H22A swap

P0441 was the code. Not enough EVAP flow. Still an occasional issue. Reset and go is the approach I take. The extra vacuum helped.
Just used an unused port on the manifold, and a lame auto parts store T, and put it in the middle of the hose from valve to throttle body.
PM your email if you want a pic, but the setup is pretty ugly ;-)
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Old 12-05-2014, 10:59 AM
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Re: H22A swap

UPDATE:
Put in a new transmission oil seal!!
The one where the left side axle mounts.
The time sitting open between Japan and my installation was not the best for the seal. Leaks.
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Old 12-05-2014, 06:20 PM
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Re: H22A swap

For ATTS block I'd add:
Go ahead and change out that oil pressure sensor too. Real pitb once it's back in the car. Especially if you still have the ATTS. I mean we're talking remove the axle to get access.

Mine is gone, so I just have to remove an oil cooling hose for access. But Honda put it aiming towards the (USDM) passenger side, all nice n tucked into a tight spot.

Honda shows it is a pair of different part # for the SH block. You get to guess which one your car has. So for kicks n giggles I ordered both. Ended up being the same part # on the packages as the base one. Sigh! But I have an extra one for the day that too becomes a hard to find oem part.

Edit:
Just for info confirmation I checked Honda. They list the Denso ops has been replaced by the TEC one. So same pn for either now.
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Old 12-08-2014, 10:34 PM
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Icon5 Re: H22A swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flip2 View Post
This thread is for anyone researching a possible engine swap. DO IT!
This engine is what the car should have had all along, makes it a great car. Much better low end drivability. Good power. Great gas mileage (Denso "Irridium Power" plugs help here- I'm sure).

I live in a state where you want to change the engine over to the US style OBD2 emissions system. This can be done fairly easily, but be aware some of the simple sounding jobs can be involved.

Here is what I had to change over;
+US wire harness (some of the clips can be challenging for large fumbly hands)
+US Distributor
+Coil (separate on US)
+Thermostat housing (JDM interferes with US coil)
+Injectors (JDM low impedance, non compatible with US electrics)
+VSS sensor
+V-tec solenoid (US one has an extra plug on it- to match US harness)
+oil pump (under everything, and then you need to drop the oil pan!)
+CKP/TDC sensors (you need to change oil pump to mount them)
+Balance shaft gears (the US ones trip the CKP/TDC sensors- JDM won't!)

Some folks swap over the US throttle body and intake manifold. I kept the JDM. The TB opening is 13% bigger. The vacuum port on the JDM TB is smaller. I got a CEL light saying EVAP wasn't flowing enough. Eventually, I T-eed in an extra vacuum source, and the CEL is off.

I found a "Top Fuel" (JDM tuner) air intake on Ebay- very cool, and solved the size mis match from the bigger throttle body. Also, think it helps my very good low end.

While you have the motor out, think about putting in new stuff that's buried under the engine. Fuel filter, power steering hoses, heater hoses. If you have an SH, think about replacing the oil cooler hoses, and the other cooling hoses.

I used my US ECU and ATTS box.

Took a little while to get some details right;
-For a few days, idling was an issue. I got a new IAC valve that just seemed to work better that the other two. Be warned, the JDM TB does NOT have an idle speed screw like the US version does. The new valve, and a few starts on the ECU did the trick.
-At first, the throttle would stick shut after the car sat overnight. This was just first thing- before start up. After a week, it was fine. Probably a result of the engine sitting for a few years.
-Vtec transition was real sticky for a while- again, probably because the engine sat.

Now I am all smiles, whenever I drive the car.
Look forward to an exhaust upgrade…let it loose up top
I have h22a4 took my motor apart put it back together having trouble with all the vacc lines I need a diagram picture or some advice would be much appreciated car starts it runs but vacc lines I need help For some reason can't seem to figure it out? If anything my emails marianichristopher@gmail.com
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Old 05-13-2017, 01:30 PM
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Re: H22A swap

Just short of 3 years in and 42,000 miles I had 3 failures of new non-Honda parts I put in. Things that were easy to get to with the engine out, and not so easy with the engine in.
1) Knock Sensor...
2) Water Pump
3) TDC and CKP sensor

1 & 3 were Airtex Wells pieces, and the water pump was part of a kit. All were brand new. Went with Honda sourced replacements.

Last edited by Flip2; 05-13-2017 at 01:38 PM. Reason: no edit
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