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Replacement ECU

 
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:38 PM
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Replacement ECU

I have searched quite a bit so far, and can't seem to find a clear cut answer to a question I have about replacing my ECU. I have reason to believe my ECU got wet and is no longer working properly. I ordered a used ECU online that should be delivered in a couple days, but I have been reading about the immobilizer that I'm pretty sure my car is equipped with. If I plug in the replacement ECU that I have coming, will I need to have anything re-programmed in order for my car to start and run as normal with my existing key? The p/n for my current ECU and the replacement one are the same (37820-P5M-L53), not sure if that has anything to do with this.
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:09 PM
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Re: Replacement ECU

You have to take it to Honda to get the ECU programmed with your key and immoblizer. It won't work without that. I believe you need the red learning key to do this.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:40 PM
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Re: Replacement ECU

A locksmith can do it also. Or...
Dig this... you can eliminate it... but why do that? It's a kick@$s anti-theft device.
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welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
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Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
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Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

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Old 08-18-2013, 11:58 PM
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Re: Replacement ECU

You can bypass it by breaking off a board in the ECU. If you do that I would invest in a alarm and create a killswitch. The Immbolizer is useless if they really want to take your car. You just want to make it harder for them or impossible for teenage punks.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:08 AM
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Re: Replacement ECU

I have a Viper alarm on the car already with a kill switch. I'd rather not break the board off the ECU, but how much would it cost to take it to a Honda dealership and have it reprogrammed? Although my replacement ECU does not start the car bc of the immobilizer, I'm still not convinced the ECU is the problem bc the ECU fuse still pops when the key is turned to ignition. That leads me to believe there is still a short somewhere within that circuit. Does that sound right?
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98 Prelude: bone stock, nordic mist metallic...planning 6K HID's in retros and chrome wheels
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:47 AM
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Re: Replacement ECU

hooked up a scanner to it today and i have two DTC's showing:

Honda Permanent DTC: 30-03
1. CVT Speed Change Control Valve Circuit Low
2. A/T FI Data Line Failure

and

Honda Temporary DTC: P1655
1. A/T FI Data Line Failure
2. TCM/ECM Signal Failure
3. TCM/PCM Communication Line Malfunction

Does anyone know where I can begin to look to locate the electrical short that is causing these?
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96 Firebird Formula: Forged 383 LT1, ported heads/intake, all bolt-ons, 12 bolt rear w/4.10 gears, T-56 Viper spec tranny, jet hot hooker LT headers, y-pipe, and catback, 402 rwhp 403 rwtq
98 Prelude: bone stock, nordic mist metallic...planning 6K HID's in retros and chrome wheels
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:53 AM
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Re: Replacement ECU

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wuxxw6h1pjbqwvx/s05SQb4Nnw

Start here ^^
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:17 PM
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Re: Replacement ECU

Those alarm kill switches are 1st grade math to bypass to car jackers. I would make a killswitch that disables the fuel pump. The cost, you'll have to call honda and ask.
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:30 PM
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Re: Replacement ECU

Thanks bykfixer for the link!
I've been working through some of the continuity tests for the TCM and ECM so far. One result has told me replace the ECM with a known working ECM, which I did, but I do not have the key that is paired with the replacement ECM so it's not going to start the car for me, and the fuse still pops regardless. I have a working replacement TCM on the way since my other result from troubleshooting and testing with a multimeter said to replace the TCM.

This problem has become a major pain in the ass!! Are there any other common electrical connectors or locations in the engine bay that could have been damaged by driving through a TON of water that would cause this circuit to short out?
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96 Firebird Formula: Forged 383 LT1, ported heads/intake, all bolt-ons, 12 bolt rear w/4.10 gears, T-56 Viper spec tranny, jet hot hooker LT headers, y-pipe, and catback, 402 rwhp 403 rwtq
98 Prelude: bone stock, nordic mist metallic...planning 6K HID's in retros and chrome wheels
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:20 PM
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Re: Replacement ECU

Oh my!!

Water damage is an awful thing. Hate to say it but my to your question is yes...
Each and every circuit.
Put a shload of bags of minute rice inside the cab and engine bay... right after driving through water. Probably too late to try it now. Damage is done my friend.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:17 PM
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Re: Replacement ECU

Yeah it's way too late for the rice trick now. It's been about 2 1/2 weeks since it happened. Would it be easier to just replace the entire wire harness that connects to the ECM and TCM instead of chasing down the damage as far as a short? I'm keeping my fingers crossed that replacing the TCM will do the trick, but since I'm buying a used one, does it need to be re-programmed in order to work? Or should it just be a plug-and-play fix?
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Current Rides:
96 Firebird Formula: Forged 383 LT1, ported heads/intake, all bolt-ons, 12 bolt rear w/4.10 gears, T-56 Viper spec tranny, jet hot hooker LT headers, y-pipe, and catback, 402 rwhp 403 rwtq
98 Prelude: bone stock, nordic mist metallic...planning 6K HID's in retros and chrome wheels
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:57 PM
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Re: Replacement ECU

My question is... how did you drive through water deep enough to damage the main wire harness and not lock up your engine or even get stuck in the water? And yes the TCM should be plug n play since there's no immoblizer to reprogram. If you have to replace the main wire harness..... have fun.
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:44 PM
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Re: Replacement ECU

I got something u can try. pull out the ecu fuse that keeps blowing. insert a paper clip in to one side of where the fuse is supposed to go and connect the ground lead. now insert the tip of your test light into the other side of where the fuse is supposed to go. the test light should turn on. you have just created a load (test light bulb) before the short to ground that is causing your fuse to blow. its more than likely high resistance in something from all the moisture causing it to blow, but this should still work. you can now start unplugging things. start with the tcu since you've already tried replacing the ecu, but try the ecu anyways because it could be in the actual harness. when the test light goes out, you have found the circuit in which your problem lies. it doesn't answer it 100% right away but it gives u a direction in which to look rather than throwing parts at it. once u find the harness that allows the test light to go out, get a wiring diagram and see what all is on that harness. then start your process of elimination, plug the harness back in and start unplugging everthing that is connected to the harness.
does this make sense? im trying to type it as easy to understand as possible but im horrible at explaining things lol
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