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Clutch problems about to kill myself

 
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:16 PM
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Don't know how to delete this thread

Figured it out

Last edited by Rustysandwich; 09-28-2012 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:27 PM
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Re: Clutch problems about to kill myself

Update:

Even more confusion. So I had one last bolt of idea, check to make sure that the line that attaches to the slave is working, so I unbolted the slave cylinder, do a gravity bleed, had friend push clutch etc etc, eventually the cylinder did start to inflate/work so I pushed the rod inwards and held it while my assistant pressed the pedal and the said there was a lot of pressure, he said he definitely felt it.

Did a few more of those, bleed bleed, push in piston during the down pedal/open bleed phase, close and again it would inflate, have pressure behind the pedal when I held it down.

So I reattach it thinking the clutch fork would do the job I was doing with my hand and give pressure while it inflates.

NOPE CHUCK ****ING TESTA

Still no return on pedal and all firmness is lost.

Why would it work when I use my hand but not when it is attached properly, also I did check manually to make sure the clutch fork has freedom to move and it does.

This is the most confusing and time consuming issue I have ever dealt with.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:40 PM
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Re: Clutch problems about to kill myself

when you were bleeding it, did your assistant only pump once? or multiple times? when bleeding a clutch its best to pump it maybe 10 times before opening the screw. are you absolutely positive you dont have any leaks anywhere? when youre bleeding it you wont know because obviously youre letting some fluid out as well as fill up the gaps left by the air so your resevoir will drain.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:24 PM
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Re: Clutch problems about to kill myself

I had an issue of a dead pedal replacing CMC and CSC fixed the problem. I was without my car for a whole week.

The bleeding process is a pain in the ass... so I made it easier for my self by buying one of these (Mityvac MV8000 Automotive Test and Bleeding Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive). I literally bled the system in under 5 mins.

Buying/Renting this would save you a lot of time and effort. If there are no leaks then it should work ok.
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:00 PM
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Re: Clutch problems about to kill myself

Well when removed the bolts holding the slave I was able to get pressure etc, push the pushrod, the assistant felt pressure as I held the pushrod down and he depressed the pedal. So there was definitely no air loss/leak blah blah there. But once attached it just does nothing again.

I'll take a video tomorrow or something.
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:39 PM
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Re: Clutch problems about to kill myself

Hate to sound like a Ass, but does the assistant know how to bleed a clutch?

Because you need to lock the nut after every depress.
1. Pump the clutch 3-10 times then hold the pedal down. Assistant does not let go.
2. Open the bolt and let the fluid run until it stops on its own.
3. Then lock the bolt.
4. Assisstant then releases the pedal, pour dot4 fluid into the resevoir. Leave it uncapped.
5. Repeat 1-3. If either of you skip a step, the bubbles won't go away.

It's hard to give directions without pictures or equal understanding of the task at hand. Bleeding processes is time consuming/frustrating if done incorrectly.
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:32 AM
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Re: Clutch problems about to kill myself

Personally, I would do a different method of bench bleeding the MC, it just eliminates any potential mistakes of your helper, like Sideswipe brought up.


I've had luck bench bleeding a MC by installing both lines outta the MC, than loop them back up and put the ends inside the reservoir, so that when you fill the reservoir with fluid, the ends of the lines are completely submerged.
So when your pumping the pedal, you'll VISUALLY see the air bubbles coming from the lines in the reservoir, and you'll know 100% when all the air is outta there.
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:55 AM
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Re: Clutch problems about to kill myself

Can anyone put pics up on these marvels of modern science, where you only need one person for a bleed? All I ever had was the sport bottle with the flexi-tube, LOL! I was lucky to have old school muscle car builders do the easy part and hold the pedal down.

The other problems you have, if you still have them afterwards, let us know.
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THE IMITATION OF ANY OR ALL MANEUVERS EXECUTED BY A BA B20A 4WS PRELUDE IS HAZARDOUS TO YOUR CAR'S HEALTH. DRIVING A PRELUDE MAY CAUSE LOSS OF INTEREST IN OTHER CARS, WOMEN AND SPEED LIMITS. OTHER SYMPTOMS INCLUDE SLEEPLESS NIGHTS, COLD SWEATS AND OTHER SYMPTOMS RELATED TO ADDICTION. IF THE SYMPTOMS PERSIST,DRIVE!
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:59 AM
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Re: Clutch problems about to kill myself

well, the wing on the back of your car is causing much to much down force resulting in the clutch dragging the entire car
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:50 PM
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Re: Clutch problems about to kill myself

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Originally Posted by itsdatoneguy View Post
well, the wing on the back of your car is causing much to much down force resulting in the clutch dragging the entire car
Rude, also that was my 4th gen and that was the day I got it home before I took off all the rice.

Anyways bumping because I found the solution to my issue in case anyone ever overlooks the small thing I did.

The bleed valve screw was faulty, new life lesson, always check bleed valve screws and make sure the hole at the threading is open/ not lathed improperly/crushed etc. Also the weird 11m bolt on the master cylinder wasn't allllll the way tight.

But now when I press the clutch pedal the slave cylinder pushes hard etc and holds the clutch fork open, but doesn't return allll the way up any ideas if I may ask?

And now I am having a starting issue (started a week ago and randomly won't now) won't start, turns over, headlights locks still work. Clock isn't on, no air, no radio, no windows.


Ignition coil? Or ignition switch? Maybe a fuse? I am open to any ideas. I tried searching google and the forums but no luck. A link to a write-up for trouble shooting that would be great, I just don't know why the clock and dash accessories won't work along with the car not starting but turning over. And battery is solid.

Last edited by Rustysandwich; 09-28-2012 at 01:02 PM.
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