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*HELP* The EVIL H22a4 to H23a VTEC swap

 
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:34 PM
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Icon9 *HELP* The EVIL H22a4 to H23a VTEC swap

Hi all,

I have a complicated and frustrating situation that I could use some advice on. Here's the background info:

- I hydrolocked my 1998 automatic base prelude. (F***!)

After measuring the piston heights (and seeing water in a cylinder), it was clear that I bent a rod pretty good. I opted to replace the engine instead of a rebuild. After researching extensively about which engine to choose, I decided on the H23A VTEC. I planned on making the new engine run as an OBDII.

- I bought new: oil pump (H22 for crank sensor issue), timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, tensioners, spark plug wires, starter, rotor, distributor cap, oil pan gasket, front main seal, rear main seal, alternator belt, power steering belt, intake manifold gasket, motor mounts, headers and VTEC oil pressure sensor.

- We used from the old H22a4: fuel rail, injectors, dizzy, crank pulley (for power steering), and the throttle body (I believe).

The new engine is in the car and all hooked up. When my mechanic tried to fire it up, he said that he was getting a crank sensor error. He tested the sensor and said it was dead.

I bought a new crank sensor, and he put it in. Now, we aren't receiving any spark or fuel. My mechanic says that he can turn the fuel pump on manually with a scanner, so it's not the fuel pump or the main relay. Also, the coil in the distributor is new, so he ruled out the dizzy.

The check engine light comes on for 2 seconds, turns off, then stays on. In his opinion, my ecu was likely damaged in the flood and needs replacing.

I have a couple of options for replacing the ECU. I can go with a P13, P28, or P72. I ruled out the P28 since, from my understanding, they will not operate the IAB butterfly valves. That leaves either the P13 or P72.

In an effort to avoid potential problems with the demobilizer in my Prelude, I've decided on a chipped P13 - OBDI. I know I will also need the OBDII to OBDI conversion harness. From what I've read, the chipped OBDI P13 ECU should run my H23a VTEC with OBDII engine setup (dizzy, oil pump, etc) just fine.

- Can anyone confirm this information for me?
- Does anyone (that has the H23a VTEC) have any other suggestions as to the best choice for an ECU?

Also, I read on this thread something about having to switch the balancer belt pulley.

- Are they referring to the crank pulley, or something different?

This job has been the bane of my existence, seems like one problem after another. My car has been out of commission since late September, and I've spent something like $3k so far...I would GREATLY appreciate any advice or help you all can offer to get my lude back on the road as quickly and cheaply as possible.

THANKS!
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:00 PM
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Re: *HELP* The EVIL H22a4 to H23a VTEC swap

Just get a chipped p72, with a base map on it, and then you'll need to get in for a tune. gimme a minute and i'll find a link to a site you can order a ecu and a base map. legit one that is.

Btw, yes i do have a H23 Blue top as well. I'm running p28, but im not running a stock IM(running a Skunk2 intake mani)

a P72, with a base map
http://www.xenocron.com/chipped-p72-ecu-p-275.html

a P28 or equivalent with a base map... if your not worried about running your IAB's(you can unhook them) this option is cheaper..
http://www.xenocron.com/chipped-obd1...ecu-p-129.html

Either way that website is legit, you can call em as well and see if what the best option for you would be.
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Last edited by Rebel_Luder98; 04-03-2012 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 04-21-2012, 02:39 PM
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Re: *HELP* The EVIL H22a4 to H23a VTEC swap

Hi All, thanks for your input - you were a great help!! We've swapped over the timing belt and balancer belt drive gears, and the car FINALLY starts!

One problem though: The car can't rev past 3k rpm. My mechanic says that it is throwing a Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS) code, and that the car shuts off after running for a little while. My mechanic thinks the TPS is dead, but I want to make absolutely sure there aren't any other possible causes for this issue.

- Anyone heard of this before, or experienced this during their swap?

Thanks again for your help so far, it's unreal how much relief I got from just the car starting...
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:49 PM
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Icon8 Re: *HELP* The EVIL H22a4 to H23a VTEC swap

New TPS sensor is in, car still won't rev past 3500 RPMS. Still throwing TPS code. Ideas anyone??

Could really use some help guys.
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:09 PM
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Re: *HELP* The EVIL H22a4 to H23a VTEC swap

Does the engine run SMOOTHLY up until 3K?? Or does it struggle to even stay running?

You sure the TPS was installed correctly? Cuz IIRC there was a clock-spring in the TPS that needed to be wound up correctly for it to function properly.
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:17 PM
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Re: *HELP* The EVIL H22a4 to H23a VTEC swap

Yes it runs smoothly up until 3k, and the timing is perfect at idle. I'll ask my mechanic about the spring, haven't heard of that before. He told me he adjusted the sensor properly before he put it in tho...I appreciate your help.
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:54 PM
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Re: *HELP* The EVIL H22a4 to H23a VTEC swap

Hmmm yea that's what I was thinking, the timing was off on the t-belt, but that doesn't sound like it.

I might be wrong on the TPS, it was awhileeeeee ago that I did that.
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2000 Acura TL; DD
2005 Stage2.5+ Subaru WRB STi : RzKar!
Ivey Tuned - Advan - Cobb - Rallispec - CP - Perrin - ACT - KillerB - Carillo - TurboXS - Defi - Innovate - Walbro - DeatschWerks - Feal - H&R - Alpine - Infiniti - Curt

2001 Kawasaki STX1100 D.I. - Sold!
2007 Sea-Doo RXT 215; ET 127 +3 S/C impeller, DIY 3" intake, DIY resonator delete/free flow exhaust, DIY oil catch can, Rule 500gph bilge pump


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But you need that scoop on the hood. Is it true that they're big enough to fit your lunch box and all your camera gear in it?
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:33 PM
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Re: *HELP* The EVIL H22a4 to H23a VTEC swap

check knock sensor. or disable it
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