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The Lude from HELL (Door Latch, Speakers, Oil Leak, Engine Whine etc)

 
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Old 02-03-2012, 01:50 PM
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The Lude from HELL (Door Latch, Speakers, Oil Leak, Engine Whine etc)

Ok guys, I need your help again! I'm gonna start w/the most emergent issues. Please don't automatically direct me to this/that thread because believe me I've read em all, and I'm looking for "second opinions."


1997 Prelude base w/131k... Lots of problems and need some advice:


1. Just had oil pressure sending unit & valve cover gasket re-done and she's still leaking oil. Confirmed stripped drain plug threads by several different mechanics. Threw an oversized drain plug on it & called it a day. I know I can use time-sert or teflon tape? Do you guys have experience with these? What I'm really wondering is what/if any harm I'm doing to my car by not having it replaced. As long as I'm checking oil level constantly it should be fine, right? It's not getting on the timing assembly as far as I know. I'd rather dump money in synthetic oil then several hundreds at the moment replacing that effin thing.

2. Just had new timing belt, water pump & auto tensioner replaced on Sat (yes I know I should have done the manual tensioner conversion but the shop kept insisting it couldn't be done and I didn't want to argue w/them much further, they only charged me $600 for t-belt, pump & valve cover gasket) and the engine is making that damn whining/whirring noise now. I've put 300 miles on it since and it's a lot fainter yet still noticable, is this normal? I've read that the belt could be on too tight but to wait another few hundred miles just to make sure sound doesn't go away.

3. About 100 miles after new t-belt etc was installed the CEL came on. I drive cruise control and my RPMs usually stay around 2800 going 60mph, all of a sudden they were sitting at 3100 for almost half a minute, then I felt a jolt and it went back down to 2800. Threw codes for tranny control module failure (7000 or 7700 can't remember) and (upper control?) solenoid. Shop who did t-belt told me new solenoid would run me around $375 only option oem (I just recently learned they often only require cleaning and not replacing) but that they had an old civic trans sitting around and they could try swapping in that solenoid for no charge. Had them do that, took em about 15 min and it seemed to take care of the problem. I've put over 200 miles on it since and the CEL is still off, RPMs and shifting seems normal. Have you guys ever heard of a civic solenoid working in a prelude? Perhaps nothing was changed, he just cleaned the old one out?

4. Just had new rad put in ~3 weeks ago & it's taking forever for my engine to heat up, at least 5-10 miles of normal driving. It's blowing hot air though, and it is winter in MN, so this is normal, right?

5. Driver's side door won't open from in/outside. I've read all threads imaginable and I still don't know what to do. Started in November, thought it was simply frozen like every other year, but I tried de-icer, hairdryer and waiting until a 55 degree day to no avail. I suspect it's a problem w/the latch because I removed the inner door handle assembly, pulled the rods and nothing. It's as if you can hear/feel it unlock but the door itself won't open. Tried kicking it from inside and having someone try from the outside, nothing. It's also as if, when unlocking with the button, you can hear the door momentary unlock then lock itself again. But I've tried opening it in that in-between time, no luck. The driver's side door lock will lock and unlock the passenger door, however. I was, about 3 weeks ago, able to open the door ONE time. It was a miracle! I had my car washed the day before by the mechanic who did my rad and I was just sitting in it wondering if he had taken a look at it. So I pulled the rod, pushed against the door and VOILA! It opened! I was so happy I thought I might cry and made the mistake of not even looking at the latch or putting oil on it and... of course, the next morning I accidentally lock it and it's stuck again. Does this really sound like the latch, or is something effed up with the rods? My window still works, just kind of sticks... I really can't see having them break into my own car... any other troubleshooting suggestions you guys have that could identify the source of the problem?

6. Same driver's side door's bottom speaker & tweeter have been shorted out for years. Since 2009 the speaker & tweeter would only work in cold temperatures w/the door shut. Suspected short in door jamb as they would go in/out after going over a bump, slamming the door, etc. Was sort of enjoying the fact that my driver's side door wouldn't open as my speakers were working 100% of the time now seeing as it is winter. A few days ago, however, it stopped working period. Even with door shut & cold temps, there's no sound. Does this sound to you guys like the short is in the door jamb or behind the speaker or radio unit? I was thinking of just having the same person splice the wires back together or re-wire my system w/new speakers at the same time as fixing the door... does this sound like a good idea? Anyone have ANY idea how much that would run me? Speakers and amp not included?

7. Passenger window motor & weather stripping have been replaced both twice and the thing keeps getting stuck, causing the motor to go out prematurely. Currently I've got no motor sitting in it, because I'm not ready to have that replaced for the third time only to have the same problem. Since the weather stripping & motor are both done at the same time, can you see why this keeps happening to me? Is there any way to prevent it? I'd like to have a working window again, but like I said not willing to buy another motor & weather stripping set if it's just gonna go out again.

9. All 4 sway bar links have also been broken for years, kind of getting used to the sound now but is this a difficult/costly job? I've heard not but I always get ass rammed by people. Am I making anything worse by not having them fixed? I really am just so used to it now.

10. Had 4 new tires put on & alignment done about 2 weeks ago and now my car is bouncing up & down like the admiral's ship. Shop says my struts/shocks are out and I need them re-done... my question is why wasn't it doing this before and do you guys know approx how much this job would cost? How long can I drive it this way w/out causing more suspension probs? I've put $1500 in this bitch in the past month, and like I said about the oil pan, can't see shelling out another 5-600 bones.

11. Aaaand finally! For some reason a few months ago I thought my trans fluid was low so I was dumb and threw some O'Reilly Global ATF in there (about half a qt) cuz I was desperate... bought this car w/94k and put 37k on it without having a tranny fluid drain&refill in memory... Car shifts a little hard, would you guys recommend having this drain&fill done ASAP? Is there any way I could damage it further by doing this? Or does it only get damaged by doing a full flush? I'm a chick, k, and I'm just learning all this ****.

Yea, I shoulda sold her $1500 ago, but I'm hoping to get another 150k outta her... any suggestions? Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2012, 01:56 PM
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Re: The Lude from HELL (Door Latch, Speakers, Oil Leak, Engine Whine etc)

1: synthetic oil is thinner - it would cause the motor to leak more. You're fine throwing a larger bolt with some teflon tape on it just don't create any metal shards by forcing the bolt in. Plan for a new oil pan at some point.

2: Yes it could be your Timing belt is too tight -not sure how they could have screwed that up using an auto-tensioner... It could also be your power steering or alternator belts - check the tension on those first, they should have a very "little" amount of play as in you can push them slightly but they should not be 100% tight. If they are fine than go back to your shop and have the timing belt checked.

3: Never heard of a civic one working - but then again they are both Honda's, wouldn't surprise me lol

4: Do you allow the car time to warm up or do you just start it and go? If starting it and taking off - yeah it can take about that to warm up to opt temp. You should always let the motor warm up though prior to driving - esp in winter.

5: Latch could be sticking - or lock regulator is bad. First thing i'd check is that plastic clip that is known to break, but seeing as you were able to open it once, I don't consider that being the issue....

6: The harness in the door jam is known to break. You'll have fun with that one lol.

7: If you've replace the stripping ont he outside - once is enough... those things are expensive. Same with the motor, is there any excess glue from tint on the window? That can cause an issue, or the motor not registering to stop... which I'm not familiar with what could cause that.

8: There is no 8. Snack time?

9: Ass rammed? As in you keep getting rear ended? o_O or is this an act that we'd rather not speak of... Anyway - HAH HAH AAAHAHAH **** endlinks -__- they were the most PITA thing to remove on my car. If yours are broken, grab a torch/sawzall/typical wrenches/sockets and vicegrips - either buy new ones or make your own if you're crafty enough. There's a writeup floating around for the DIY ones. Don't wait - get them fixed.

10: Broken endlinks can cause the car to have more bounce. But bad shocks will do the same. Tough call on that - save up for a good set of coilovers or find a used set here on the forum.

11: Hmm, I would have the fluid drained and toss in Honda fluid. Hopefully it didn't do any damage- there's only 1 seal in the transmission (off the top of my head) and you would deff know if it were leaking.

huh... should've read entirely through vs answering as I read lol. If you posted you're a chick in your title - guaranteed you would have gotten your answers much faster, along with a few leg humpers along the way.

With that said, best of luck with the car - and in typical PreludeZone welcoming style:


Actually... hell with it - i'll let the typical leg humpers ask lol
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Old 02-04-2012, 02:24 PM
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Re: The Lude from HELL (Door Latch, Speakers, Oil Leak, Engine Whine etc)

LOL leg humpers lmao. True, remember when Ginger first started posting? "Hey... uh... I live in my mom's basement, but uh.... I think you're hot... uh... what do you look like naked?"

Douchebags lol
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Old 02-04-2012, 02:40 PM
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Re: The Lude from HELL (Door Latch, Speakers, Oil Leak, Engine Whine etc)

In regards to 8. I just had lunch. Continue..
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Old 02-04-2012, 07:39 PM
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Re: The Lude from HELL (Door Latch, Speakers, Oil Leak, Engine Whine etc)

in response to...

4. i usually try to let it warm up when i can unless i'm running late/in a hurry (which is unfortunately quite often, i'm sort of a total space cadet and i misplace everything vital right before i have to leave) and i suppose that could have something to do w/it, but i have had the car for 4 years and it's never taken this long to warm up. maybe it's finally getting enough coolant, who knows. i do always make sure to fully brake before shifting out of any position however, i feel that is very important. unrelated though, so moving on...

5. the door really pisses me off because i'm at a loss to understand it. i know it cannot be electrical, the DS power lock would not open the passenger door otherwise. i was ****ing w/the rods again yesterday (**** you all it's not that ****ing funny) and i was able to discern which rod was for the outside lock/handle and which went to the inside lock/handle, but that is part of my question - do the 2 rods function simultaneously as a lock mechanism AND handle? or is there a 3rd or 3rd & 4th rod that I'm not seeing? or does the lock only concern w/the motor and the rods are just the handles? because both power locks work, the door just won't open.

6. yeah i've already had plenty of "fun" with the speaker issue for over 3 years, someone else can have a go at it now as far as i'm concerned. i would **** w/it for hours if i actually thought what i was doing was making any difference, along with the door issue. although it does stand to reason that I May be a Genius as I was the only one to get the door to open that time after 3 different shops + 2 personal mechanics tried for it.

7. as far as the window is concerned, it is a mystery. I was looking for a smiley to accompany that phrase but i think that particular smiley was only on the SA forums which i haven't read in quite a many year. Eventually I'll pay someone else to fix it, but only if it can be done right the first time. or last, whichever way one sees it.

there is no there, or 8. i ate 8. no snack for any of you.

9/10. ass rammed as in i've paid almost $2000 in the past month for a new rad, t-belt & water pump (even though i'm really kind of pissed that i never got ahold of the previous owner, then i would have known that it was ALREADY done prior, i'm guessing somewhere around 87,5xx which is when he did the tune up. so the previous belt only had around 44k on it, but it is what it is. it was at least 4 1/2 years old, in any case) along w/tensioners belts etc, valve cover gasket & oil pressure sending unit along w/some other oil seals, whatever the hell they did at no charge (moot) w/the solenoid, 4 new tires an alignment & they had to burn my rim cuz i had a stripped lug nut. all of this **** since the beginning of Jan when i've had the car for 4 years and only ever did oil changes & a knock sensor. if i was mechanically inclined enough i could have done all of this myself for half, so i'm trying to get this minor stuff done in as much of an efficient way as possible.

ANYWAY, as far as the Sway Bar Links go, they have all been out for AT LEAST 3 years. why should i do them "ASAP" now when that is the case? granted it was dumb of me to let them sit but i thought, seeing as they've been effed for so long, it wouldn't make much of a difference besides in ride comfort which i could care less about since i'm so used to it. and are they really that bad of a PITA? i would have thought anything to do w/taking apart timing or engine assembly (oil pan for example) or something like ball joints would be much more of a PITA. i doubt the newly acquired bounce is due to them, though, as it's only been in existence for the past few weeks. with all the people who have ****ed w/my car though, who the hell knows.

& to close, i don't understand the female issue. this subject was posed last time in november when i asked you fellas about my knock sensor - this is the only reason i mention i'm a woman is because i am always questioned about it sooner or later and then the immature (unhelpful) responses come rolling in. female or not i tend to think like a man quite often and associate myself mostly with other guys because i honestly can't stand a lot of petty "girl issues" and they bore me with their often simple and superficial nature.

anyway i am very grateful for the responses and i welcome anything else you all have to offer =)
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Old 02-04-2012, 09:02 PM
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Re: The Lude from HELL (Door Latch, Speakers, Oil Leak, Engine Whine etc)

5. The rods are just for the door handles themselves, only 2 of them. The lock motors work along with the latches so the fun will continue with that until the lock motor is replaced and/or the door latch gets a good lube job. (followed by playing with the rods)

6. Come to think of it... if you're having issues with the speakers and it is in fact the harness - you could have a bad connection there for the lock motor as well....

7. In time then - for now, hell with that issue :P

8. DAMMIT!

9/10. Yeah, the endlinks are a real PITA. I ended up just cutting them flush at the bolt since it was so seized up. Removing balljoints just requires a press - easy enough to take it to a shop and have it done since hand tools won't work efficiently, and oil pan is pretty simple. Timing belt work can be annoying because of the tight space.... but still not comparable to the nightmare I had trying to remove those endlinks without damaging the knuckle lol. Breaker bar, torque gun, air chisel, can of wd-40, hammer + wrenches, nothing would budge those bolts. Last resort- cordless sawzall, 4 batteries and multiple saw blades later.... i ended up notching into my knuckle a good bit but got them out. With the help of fellow member Ogs on here - i'm sure he feels the same about that job lol.

Eh, if you can't get them replaced and it's been awhile - just continue on i suppose.... Never said they needed to be done "ASAP" - it only effects body roll so you can drive without them. Removing them is the only hard part, making your own and bolting them up is an easy fix. I said "don't wait" because It's something you can do on a weekend in some spare time thus one issue resolved and one less headache to worry about. (you would be able to enjoy the ride a little more lol)

haha- well in a few months time, alot of new members pop in and don't know. Everyone tends to be more helpful to females on a forum because there are so few into cars - which was why i suggested posting it in the title to get your answers faster :P But at the same time, they scare everyone away.... carry a taser...
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Old 02-04-2012, 09:44 PM
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Re: The Lude from HELL (Door Latch, Speakers, Oil Leak, Engine Whine etc)

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Originally Posted by perfectdisguise View Post
Ok guys, I need your help again! I'm gonna start w/the most emergent issues. Please don't automatically direct me to this/that thread because believe me I've read em all, and I'm looking for "second opinions."


1997 Prelude base w/131k... Lots of problems and need some advice:


1. Just had oil pressure sending unit & valve cover gasket re-done and she's still leaking oil. Confirmed stripped drain plug threads by several different mechanics. Threw an oversized drain plug on it & called it a day. I know I can use time-sert or teflon tape? Do you guys have experience with these? What I'm really wondering is what/if any harm I'm doing to my car by not having it replaced. As long as I'm checking oil level constantly it should be fine, right? It's not getting on the timing assembly as far as I know. I'd rather dump money in synthetic oil then several hundreds at the moment replacing that effin thing.

2. Just had new timing belt, water pump & auto tensioner replaced on Sat (yes I know I should have done the manual tensioner conversion but the shop kept insisting it couldn't be done and I didn't want to argue w/them much further, they only charged me $600 for t-belt, pump & valve cover gasket) and the engine is making that damn whining/whirring noise now. I've put 300 miles on it since and it's a lot fainter yet still noticable, is this normal? I've read that the belt could be on too tight but to wait another few hundred miles just to make sure sound doesn't go away.

3. About 100 miles after new t-belt etc was installed the CEL came on. I drive cruise control and my RPMs usually stay around 2800 going 60mph, all of a sudden they were sitting at 3100 for almost half a minute, then I felt a jolt and it went back down to 2800. Threw codes for tranny control module failure (7000 or 7700 can't remember) and (upper control?) solenoid. Shop who did t-belt told me new solenoid would run me around $375 only option oem (I just recently learned they often only require cleaning and not replacing) but that they had an old civic trans sitting around and they could try swapping in that solenoid for no charge. Had them do that, took em about 15 min and it seemed to take care of the problem. I've put over 200 miles on it since and the CEL is still off, RPMs and shifting seems normal. Have you guys ever heard of a civic solenoid working in a prelude? Perhaps nothing was changed, he just cleaned the old one out?

4. Just had new rad put in ~3 weeks ago & it's taking forever for my engine to heat up, at least 5-10 miles of normal driving. It's blowing hot air though, and it is winter in MN, so this is normal, right?

5. Driver's side door won't open from in/outside. I've read all threads imaginable and I still don't know what to do. Started in November, thought it was simply frozen like every other year, but I tried de-icer, hairdryer and waiting until a 55 degree day to no avail. I suspect it's a problem w/the latch because I removed the inner door handle assembly, pulled the rods and nothing. It's as if you can hear/feel it unlock but the door itself won't open. Tried kicking it from inside and having someone try from the outside, nothing. It's also as if, when unlocking with the button, you can hear the door momentary unlock then lock itself again. But I've tried opening it in that in-between time, no luck. The driver's side door lock will lock and unlock the passenger door, however. I was, about 3 weeks ago, able to open the door ONE time. It was a miracle! I had my car washed the day before by the mechanic who did my rad and I was just sitting in it wondering if he had taken a look at it. So I pulled the rod, pushed against the door and VOILA! It opened! I was so happy I thought I might cry and made the mistake of not even looking at the latch or putting oil on it and... of course, the next morning I accidentally lock it and it's stuck again. Does this really sound like the latch, or is something effed up with the rods? My window still works, just kind of sticks... I really can't see having them break into my own car... any other troubleshooting suggestions you guys have that could identify the source of the problem?

6. Same driver's side door's bottom speaker & tweeter have been shorted out for years. Since 2009 the speaker & tweeter would only work in cold temperatures w/the door shut. Suspected short in door jamb as they would go in/out after going over a bump, slamming the door, etc. Was sort of enjoying the fact that my driver's side door wouldn't open as my speakers were working 100% of the time now seeing as it is winter. A few days ago, however, it stopped working period. Even with door shut & cold temps, there's no sound. Does this sound to you guys like the short is in the door jamb or behind the speaker or radio unit? I was thinking of just having the same person splice the wires back together or re-wire my system w/new speakers at the same time as fixing the door... does this sound like a good idea? Anyone have ANY idea how much that would run me? Speakers and amp not included?

7. Passenger window motor & weather stripping have been replaced both twice and the thing keeps getting stuck, causing the motor to go out prematurely. Currently I've got no motor sitting in it, because I'm not ready to have that replaced for the third time only to have the same problem. Since the weather stripping & motor are both done at the same time, can you see why this keeps happening to me? Is there any way to prevent it? I'd like to have a working window again, but like I said not willing to buy another motor & weather stripping set if it's just gonna go out again.

9. All 4 sway bar links have also been broken for years, kind of getting used to the sound now but is this a difficult/costly job? I've heard not but I always get ass rammed by people. Am I making anything worse by not having them fixed? I really am just so used to it now.

10. Had 4 new tires put on & alignment done about 2 weeks ago and now my car is bouncing up & down like the admiral's ship. Shop says my struts/shocks are out and I need them re-done... my question is why wasn't it doing this before and do you guys know approx how much this job would cost? How long can I drive it this way w/out causing more suspension probs? I've put $1500 in this bitch in the past month, and like I said about the oil pan, can't see shelling out another 5-600 bones.

11. Aaaand finally! For some reason a few months ago I thought my trans fluid was low so I was dumb and threw some O'Reilly Global ATF in there (about half a qt) cuz I was desperate... bought this car w/94k and put 37k on it without having a tranny fluid drain&refill in memory... Car shifts a little hard, would you guys recommend having this drain&fill done ASAP? Is there any way I could damage it further by doing this? Or does it only get damaged by doing a full flush? I'm a chick, k, and I'm just learning all this ****.

Yea, I shoulda sold her $1500 ago, but I'm hoping to get another 150k outta her... any suggestions? Thanks!
if you could take a video of the noises you have and let some people on here see it you can get an answer faster rather then people taking guesses at noises they cant hear
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Old 02-05-2012, 03:34 AM
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Re: The Lude from HELL (Door Latch, Speakers, Oil Leak, Engine Whine etc)

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Originally Posted by SoFlaKidd View Post
if you could take a video of the noises you have and let some people on here see it you can get an answer faster rather then people taking guesses at noises they cant hear



Quoting posts - you're doing it wrong

Belts are the only thing that would wine, or a bad tensioner.
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