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High Mileage!

 
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:55 PM
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High Mileage!

Hello. I read this forum frequently, and as my lude gets older, I am always finding more things to fix, modify, or replace. i thought it would be interesting to share my experiences with my high mileage 5th gen, and to hear from other high mileage prelude owners out there.

**I am not responsible for any damages occurring as a result of botched repairs or misguided teen angst or whatever, do not attempt to duplicate anything I mention here if you have no mechanical sympathy, and do not wrap your lude around a pole as a result of misinterpreting something I wrote here**

power steering hose. The way honda "secured" the main ps hose is absolutely wrong, WAYY too tightly clipped which ends up putting lots of load stress on the hard line portions of the hose. the problem is the neck attachment on the pump end of the hose snaps due to the torque of the engine. My original hose had several leaks in it, around the metal band that is supposed to slide into the clip on the [top right of] valve cover, and near the valve. I run mine with one clip [backside of block] securing the entire line, havent leaked a single drop since. saves some time on disassembly as well.

oil leaks. if I use a regular oil filter I end up with oil drops on the filter. I have switched to using k&n oil filters, which have better o rings and leak less, if at all. You do have to be careful [hand] tightening though, they need to be tighter than most filters, without ripping the ring up. k&n makes great filters.

bearings. everywhere. release bearing, pilot bearing, main shaft bearing, wheel bearings. thats standard on most cars though, bearings wear down.

sludge. lots o sludge in the motor. the motor flush chemicals dont seem to cure it completely, and honda says no go on motor flushes. Best idea is to do frequent oil changes, and keep the iacv and vtec solenoid clean, clean your air filter [k&n] or replace [stock]. make sure to degrease if you can't see your block walls.

the stock air intake is quite capable. it can be modded to remove all the restrictions, in about 5 minutes, with a saw, crankcase breather, and a vacuum cap, maybe a socket or two for the baffle. I will leave the rest up to you.

be very very careful when using a grinder on any part of the vehicle. before you know it you can grind too much off, or send sparks into something you shouldnt.

door lock motors go up around 250k I am guessing, judging by my old door motors. you dont need to take the window track out for those either, just take out the lower track bolt nearest to the door lock and slide the motor in or out sideways, around the rear track.

the stock honda intake cam seal is crap. I went with golden eagle, has 3 o rings. blackworx and blox make them as well I believe.

fitv. proper adjustment is tighten plunger all the way down, then back it off a tiny nudge, if that. a 1/4 turn just puts you back where you started, and if your fitv is as old as mine, the plunger will walk itself back to being loose after a few drives. I have run them tightened all the way down with no adverse effects.

brake pistons start to wear down pads unevenly. the rear pistons seem to be much worse that the front in terms of pad wear, I would guess its the strange key design that honda used in the rear calipers, instead of using a c clamp to press in the piston you end up having to turn the piston key on the rears with a small wrecking bar flat, or a chisel. if they are older, you might be there for a while too.

the valve lash noise. I cannot get rid of the valvetrain noises. seems like this is a common thing, hard to find a prelude without some valve noise/ticks.

the spark plug seals. go for the honda seals. and the caps that come with the vc gasket kit get smushed very easily, don't use too much torque on them, try and get a 0-50 ft lbs torque wrench for stuff like that, and match the torque specs in the helms.

so far I have been lucky with my auto tensioner. its going soon, for a manual H23. hopefully not too soon.

front cv axles are garbage. the H eats them up. I've gone through oem axles [in a near stock 5th gen] in less than 3000 miles, this number will be even lower if you have any forced induction or juice i'm guessing.

the oem rack is better left with oem tie rod ends, the moog replacements have no set rings [inners] and no castle nuts with cotters [outers]. Just using loctite with the inners isnt enough with an H22, they will come loose in a month or two of driving.

bushings all go up after 200k. kinda all at once for me.

gut the rear end. its a noticeable difference, and what are you using the rear seat for anyway. trunk lining is crap. rear interior panels might as well when the seat goes. and so on.

relocate the battery? I always have come to the conclusion that moving the 50 pound battery somewhere else makes no sense. even though its really in the effin way. also, a 51 battery will fit better.

the front doesnt benefit any from a strut tower brace. I dont have G readings to back myself up, but if you like adding weight to your car, and adding time to your repairs, go ahead. I'm looking at a c pillar bar next, the rear feels looser to me.

for some reason honda set up the front towers some with four studs and some with two [for the type s strut tower brace]. on mine I have the extra holes but no studs, Im sure i could add them, but again its all extra weight with no gain IMO.

with no lsd [base], you need to be aware of your surroundings. not for any "real" safety reason, just to avoid the fines for wheel spinning. I just pulled a warning for excessive wheel spin, and cop made me wait [for the warning] for a half hour. "You in a rush?"

I have a 5 speed, original 5 speed. I drove an auto once, and nearly blew the guys valves out the crankcase. I can blame my own stupidity only so much. stay away from it my suggestion, stick only [or auto to manual conversion].

no pollen filter. in mines. not sure about the SH, or other years. gets awfully stanky in there.

don't let anyone work on your high mileage honda, if you can. The butchery that some shops charge you for is criminal. and more to the point, don't use impact tools unless you have to, or the job calls for it. in my limited experience, all 4th and 5th gen ludes will "let" you work on them. but don't push your luck by trying to speed through the repair[s]. some things common on the prelude are not so common on other cars, and just assuming you "have all the manual you will ever need" will nab you.

After reading and never posting, I felt like typing something up. I have to say though, that if you can't get a helms online and look some of this stuff up, nothing i've said here will make a difference, youre probably doomed. and ill be buying your dead prelude anytime now.

hope this helps someone, and please feel free to post up your high mileage war journals, comment or question on what I've written, whatever. this is probly too much info to digest all at once anyway, but yea. its always good to have this kind of info, our cars arent getting any younger.

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Old 12-17-2011, 06:44 PM
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Re: High Mileage!

i need bushings, cv/axles, i also need window motors and i just replaced the windshield wiper assembly with a new one from honda
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:25 PM
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Re: High Mileage!

hey mang, thanks for posting.

window motors are easier than they seem. helms FTW

i havent priced them out [you have to fill out their form online for a quote] but gator stage 1 axles should be nice. I have heard dss are more expensive. if you havent done cv axles before, use an impact gun to remove, not to put back on. I think the torque spec is 181 ft lbs, but check the helms

honda bushings might be a likkle more comfy, got energy bushings in rear, whole car vibrates a little on occasion. think im gonna swap them out soon, since my trunk lining and rear seats are gone, it gets a little too loud with the hyperflex bushings.

good luck and post up if you have any questions or problems, whatever. If I can't help, Im sure someone else can. gotta figure out my electrical infidelity now....

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Old 12-18-2011, 01:14 PM
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Re: High Mileage!

Thanks for the post. Its way to easy to forget about the little things when it comes to vehicles. A lot of people think boost, boost, boost, but forget that with boost there is a need for overhauls on suspension and such.
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:30 PM
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Re: High Mileage!

yup I always believed that your car should actually work before you add forced induction, or any performance mods. not really a turbo guy anyway, its all about VTEC for me. might catch me running juice in the future. on my 220k prelude. hee hee
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:27 AM
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Re: High Mileage!

95, 301,411km. Still runs like a gem, minus an ignition issue im having.
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